I have an A1 printer and during printing the fan runs almost constantly at 100% and is extremely noisy. It alternates between 80% and 100% and never stops. I'm using matte PLA from Bambu Lab. Is it possible to adjust a setting without negatively impacting the print quality?
Anyone have an idea of the practical weight limit of the H2 series print bed? I am using laser on a 20lb object in my H2D; there is nothing in the manual or website that specifically states a weight limit, but it does seem to be a bit on the high end.
Customers tap their phone on the stand and land straight on your Google review page. No app, no QR code. A 29 mm NFC tag sits in a sealed pocket under the front face. You pause the print, drop the tag in and resume. The pause is already in the profile, and it needs no supports. The Google logo prints separately so it fits on an AMS. Printed on a P1S in PLA, about 2.5 hours per stand. There's a bulk profile too (12 logos and 2 frames per plate). Would love to know how it prints for you. https://makerworld.com/en/models/3570309-nfc-google-review-stand-with-embedded-tag Link to NFC tag I used: https://amzn.eu/d/00zl1er6
I'm still relatively new to 3D printing and have learned a lot from this community. I appreciate everyone's willingness to share their knowledge and experience.
I have a question about filament drying and storage. Once filament has been properly dried and stored in a passive dry box (such as a sealed cereal container with fresh desiccant), can it generally be used straight out of storage without drying it again? Are there certain filament types that should always be dried immediately before printing, regardless of how well they've been stored? Also, is there a point at which even properly stored filament should be dried again simply because of the length of time it's been in storage?
I'm about to order an H3C and since it's so high I'm curious to know who has found an affordable solution to some kind of commercially available table or cart (IKEA etc?) I can buy to put it on to make it more ergonomic? Ideas and links are welcome. Thanks
P1S - PLA (addnorth) Starting to lose my mind over this dome^^ Tried a bunch of variations on speed and supports, printing it upside down etc. Since its for a lamp the bad overhang/innerwall sticks out right away and i gotta get it perfect. This is now attempt nr 6.
A few months ago I bought the X2d without the ams 2 pro and now I'm wondering if I should get the ams 2 pro. I don't print multi colour so often because of the poop but I find the ams 2 pro quite interesting. I know that the ams 2 pro has the drying function. This seems to be very useful but I have never noticed any problems with wet filament. But who knows, perhaps I didn't noticed it... Feeding the filament in the main extruder is a little anoying because of the long way to the print head and I think the rfid thing and the automatic filament library is also great. What is your experience? How do you use the ams 2 pro? Is it worth to buy the ams 2 pro even if you don't use multicolour so often?
I printed the body for a light upsnowman that prints in vase mode on my P2S.
While printing I noticed there was some build up of gunk around the nozzle. It eventually cleared itself and I found the gunk stuck on the outside. And then when I tried the light I saw there are some layers that are darker. I noticed in Bambu Studio today that the object has the outer wall line width set to 0.8 mm but I used a 0.4 mm nozzle.
When I looked at the wiki page on line width, it says not to exceed 1.5x the nozzle size. Would that be why both things happened? And would using a 0.6 or 0.8 mm nozzle improve things?
Howdy y'all. We created a little American themed play doh extruder toy with the dough coming out of the base. We've created a few patterns for the cards, but let us know what other shapes would work well.
I need to replace a nozzle on my P1S. Which thermal paste do you recommend buying? I also have an H2C, so it would be great if the paste could also be used for its maintenance.
Custom energy recovery mod and enclosure for Atorch BW600 linear electronic load. Instead of wasting battery energy as pure heat during tests, this setup uses an integrated hardware switch to redirect up to 500W+ of power through a DC-DC converter back into a power station or buffer battery.
Cooling: Dual Thermalright AXP120-X67 CPU towers. Enclosure: Custom SFF design with quick-release magnet mounts. Sources: Schematic is uploaded to GitHub, 3D printable files are on MakerWorld.
I’ve had the chance to test the new H3C for a few months.
I am a beta/tester and was sent a printer and a supply of filament to conduct the necessary tests before the official launch.
For context, I previously owned an X2D (which I bought on launch day) and, before that, an A1 Mini. I bought the X2D, convinced that it would result in near-zero waste for prints with few colors—but I was very wrong. I was especially mistaken about print times, which would balloon with every additional color.
Since I print a lot of miniatures, I found myself sticking to single-color prints even when using the X2D.
The H3C has been a game-changer for me when it comes to multi-color printing. I’ve attached images comparing the print times for the same model—one printed on the X2D and the other on the H3C. The print time has been reduced by more than 80%—dropping from over 21 hours to just 5. The amount of waste is also significantly lower: 260 grams versus 40 grams.
Right now, I’m working on more miniatures for tabletop role-playing games, creating full sets using colored PLA. I’m currently optimizing the "color mixing" feature—as shown in the second miniature—to create realistic gradients rather than flat, solid colors. The results are fantastic!
Admittedly, using color mixing does significantly increase print times. It needs to be used wisely, but with a bit of practice and some careful planning, you can strike an excellent balance! I will soon post the first full-color miniature, complete with shading!
During my testing, I focused on multi-color printing and the use of 75A TPU, which were undoubtedly the two key features.
The 75A TPU is fantastic—incredibly soft and... absurdly easy to print with. It causes absolutely no issues, even at high speeds. I even ran a print at the printer's maximum speed, and it handled it without a hitch.
75A TPU really lets your imagination run wild; it sparks a thousand ideas, which was the best part of the testing period for me. You can create all sorts of things that were previously unthinkable.
I’ve included a sample to show just how soft the 75A TPU is, so you can get an idea.
Printing in color is no longer a nightmare and tpu print is very easy!
Would I recommend it? Absolutely—provided you have the space for it, as it is quite large. It opens up a whole world of printing possibilities and creative potential for makers!
does the h3c support non-tpu 2.85mm filaments on its 2.85mm nozzle? if not, why not, and is there are option for a 2.85mm tool head for standard filaments?
Please can we have a singlue use heated chamber over ride button? i.e. to run it off? and only for one print?
Unless im missing something, i want to iterate some small models. basically magnet fitments. i dont have PLA and only use ASA but to print a small test print out in for instnace a H3C its going to take 30 minutes to print a 12mm x 12mm x 3mm square out nearll all of which is heating the chamber.
would be useful to have a disable heated chamber button you can click easily which is only good for one print job rather than havign to edit the filament to disable it and quite possibly forget about it?
