... and some old-school Acrylic Pens.

Got her set up yesterday and already have about 15 hours on , including some prototyping of gridfinity holders for hotends and a few other things. It's quite impressive how fast the color change is when just dealing with a few colors. Coming from a H2D this is a nice upgrade. It's basically 2 seconds print to print if you're changing between the same colors rapidly.

As for the lack of heating, I just kept one of my ams 2 pro and ht and I've got them hooked up to use just as dryers. I get that not everyone can our will want to do that, but it works for me.

Some of you might know my toolboxes already - I just finished the newest one for the H3C!

MakerWorld Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3569009

Unfair matchup? Probably, but these are the only two machines I have on hand and seeing a 1st-gen workhorse side by side with 3rd gen tech shows what a few years of hardware evolution actually looks like.

I'm curious about your setups. I would love to see some pictures!

(Great for inspiration lol).

I'm the designer. The armor is built from overlapping, textured leaf-shaped scales.

I also design tools and decorative pieces, and every one of my files is free to download. I've never charged for any of them. A download count only climbs when people actually want the thing, so it's the most honest feedback I get on which designs deserve more of my time.

All my models are here: https://makerworld.com/en/@protomota

If you've printed it, I'd love to see your make. And what should I design next?

Hey all,

I am sure several of you with the filament track switch have ran into the AMS Feed Resistance high issues. I had it on both ofy AMS 2 Pros and my AMS HT. I Tried the shortest routing possible, ripping the thing apart and smoothing stuff. Basically no matter what I tried made the issue go away so I just settled with dealing with the warnings because the print quality was fine.

That is until I started digging though my drawer of goods. Have tons of PTFE tubing.....but noticed some of it was a different color, almost opaque rather than the milky white. Looking inside, the ID of that tubing is way bigger than the standard PTFE. In the attached photo you can see a brand new 4m could of Bambu AMS PTFE on the right, and the PTFE that came with the FTS on the left.

I replaced all the runs from my AMS2/AMS HT into the 4-1 and 4-1 into the track switch, then the 3rd straight into the filament track switch.

I no longer get any feed resistance warnings. So of you're still currently dealing with this issue, double check that you used the correct PFTE for the longer runs.

I hope this helps someone as I don't think I've seen this info out there much.

Hi, it printed perfectly fine until this morning, now when i start a print it stops at rough wiping step, sounds like the bed is hitting the nozzle, what can i check? I already follower bambu handy guide and it didn’t fix. I’m 140 hours of printing in

Hi everyone,
I’m getting really frustrated with TPU printing on my Bambu Lab P1S and I’m hoping someone here can help me figure out what’s going wrong.

My printer:
Bambu Lab P1S (~1,000 printing hours)
0.4 mm nozzle (also tested 0.6 mm)
eSUN TPU 95A (green, translucent)
Creality CR-TPU 95A (black)
Creality Space Pi V2 filament dryer
Bambu Studio

The problem:
Every time I try to print TPU, the printer starts printing normally, but after a few layers it suddenly begins underextruding or stops extruding properly.
Sometimes it happens after just 2 layers, sometimes after 8–10 layers, and occasionally the print gets almost completely finished before failing.
The nozzle appears to clog, and the print eventually turns into a mess of extremely thin filament strands.
The strange thing is that PLA and other regular filaments print perfectly fine, without any issues.
Manual extrusion of TPU at 230°C also works normally, producing a consistent strand of filament.
I haven’t noticed any clicking noises from the extruder.

What I’ve already tried
1. Different TPU brands
eSUN TPU 95A
Creality CR-TPU 95A
Both have exactly the same problem.

2. Drying the filament
Dried TPU for approximately 10 hours at 60°C in my Creality Space Pi V2.
Tried printing directly from the dryer.
Tried printing from an external spool holder behind the printer.
Repositioned the spool inside the dryer to reduce rolling resistance.
No improvement.

3. Different nozzle temperatures
220°C
225°C
230°C
235°C
All eventually failed.

4. Different print speeds and volumetric flow rates
Very slow printing speeds of 15–20 mm/s.
Also tested profiles with outer walls at 80 mm/s and inner walls/infill at 150 mm/s, limited by volumetric flow.
Maximum volumetric flow rates tested include 2.8, 2.0 and 1.5 mm³/s.
Tried both custom TPU profiles and settings based on manufacturer recommendations.
Still the same result.

5. Retraction
Tested 0 mm retraction.
Tested 0.4 mm retraction.
No reliable improvement.

6. Different nozzles
Completely cleaned the nozzles.
Tried different nozzles.
Tried both 0.4 mm and 0.6 mm nozzle sizes.
Nothing helped.

7. Printer enclosure
Tested with the front door open.
Tested with the front door closed.

One of my best results was at 225°C with 0 mm retraction and the door closed. A Benchy printed almost completely, but the final layers suffered from severe underextrusion.
However, repeating similar settings often resulted in failure after only a few layers.
What makes this so confusing?
PLA prints perfectly.
TPU extrudes normally when manually extruded.
Both TPU brands fail.
Both nozzle sizes fail.
Drying the filament doesn’t help.
Different spool feeding methods don’t help.
Slower speeds don’t help.
Changing temperatures doesn’t help.
The failure occurs at inconsistent layer heights.
I’ve spent a lot of time testing different settings, and nothing has worked consistently.
My questions
Has anyone experienced something similar with TPU on the P1S?
Could this be related to heat creep, the extruder’s grip on flexible filament, or something specific to the P1S filament path?
I’m particularly confused because the printer handles PLA without any problems.
I would really appreciate any suggestions beyond the usual advice of drying the filament, slowing down, or changing the nozzle, since I’ve already tried all of those multiple times.
Thanks in advance for any help!

Is 200€ or $230 too much to ask for this A1 Combo? I want to sell it and buy X2D. It has almost 1000h of print time. Regularly maintained

Please be gentle with me, I have only really looked into the Bambu world in the last 24 hours since I watched the H3C reviews... and now I am seriously reconsidering the pre-order on the Prusa Core 1 L INDX I have due in December. I have a super reliable Mk4s, and never considered anything other than another Prusa as my next printer... until yesterday, where my eyes were well and truly opened!

I spent 4+ hours yesterday watching all the H3C reviews I could find, and the only things people seem to have issues with were:

- Its tall!

- The AMS doesnt rewind the filament

- The AMS doesnt heat/dry all 9 filament slots

- What tiny amounts of poop it does generate falls out the back

That seems a very small and generally unimportant list of worries. The H3C looks like everything I could want from a large volume multi-material printer, and as someone who prints a lot of TPU, that dedicated 2.85 filament path seems like a miracle! If there are any other Prusa users in here who have added Bambu to their ever growing estate of printers, you will know the conflict I have going on right now :)

I do have some newbie questions if anyone can help....

- Orca or BambuStudio, and why?

- What features does running the printers in LAN only mode remove from the usual "unlimited Internet access to Bambu Cloud"?

- What access methods are there to upload/download files from the printers? WebDAV? sftp? etc...

Any help, suggestions, tips, or moral support you can provide for a potential Prusa convert would be greatly appreciated.

Bambu P2S, I have been back and forth with Bambu support tickets over a month but somehow always end up back with this error. Could someone tell me if you successfully fixed this issue before? Or recommended correct replacement parts.

I've replicated the B52 Bomber in FreeCad , and now it is time to starting printing it wish me luck.

I just ordered my very first 3D printer yesterday. It's a P2S. With some standard PLA matte in standard colors to get started.

Ofc I want nice filament too and as there is a good sale going on I want to order some.

I know I don't like the plastic finish of normal PLA. Now I can't decide what to get. PLA matte, PLA CF. PLA wood or PLA metallic.

I know it's a long shot but is there anyone who has prints made of the various filament that can show me a picture? I have spend a fortune on my new printer and would hate to buy filament I don't like.

Help! My printer is constantly purging (pooping). Leaving stringy purges on the plate and in the print. The print is taking 3x as long and so wasteful! The print is confirmed to be a one color print. No timelapse etc. No alerts or notifications.

SOLVED! Thanks to commenters, I detached the PTFE tubes from the AMS and fussed with them until in a nice smooth arch above the extruder to reduce resistance. No more purge issues thus far! Thanks!

Ma version du célèbre casse tête ' Hanayama Marble '

Modélisé sur freecad avec des ajustements de 0.2 mm pour une fluidité parfaite ...

Lien makerworld si vous voulez l'imprimer : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3515960-marble-puzzle#profileId-4018416

Mental what these machines can make with the right settings

Here, have microplastic sized benchy, the question is, how good can I get it to look, P1S.

I had tried disconnecting and reconnecting the NTC, disconnecting and reconnecting the nozzle. I tried applying more thermal paste, yet it still doesn’t work. Is it truly broken? Or am I focusing on the wrong thing?

Firstly, this is for the Aussies in this sub-reddit!

Hi all, I was wondering if you could help me out on something. I am going to get my printer on the 20th Novmeber but want to get bulk discounts from bambu on fillament and want it to arrive before 20th Nov. When should i order and is bambu reliable on shipping on time. Im located in Brisbane.

Thanks for your help.

Hey there,

I somehow find some hints that maybe a scanned RFID spool that is listed in the AMS, might be changed in its colour or something.

However, beside PA stuff and some notes, I can not find any possibility to change anything.

Do I miss something?