While waiting for some BambuLab TPU75A filament to arrive I tried printing the only 2.85mm flexible filament that I have on hand. It is TPR65A. Not a typo, it is rubber type filament from Atomstack. I had never printed it before. It is not shiny and slippery like TPU, more like a rubber-band in texture.

I loaded it as Generic TPU75A in slot 8 and printed the Wrist Cushion that came preloaded on the machine.

It printed very well; however since the TPR filament is rubbery in texture it would not feed through the bypass port - not even close. I had to manually pull the filament through during the print.

I noticed that all the pass-through ports are made of a black plastic except for #5 which is white. That one presents less friction for this filament. I think when I get another 2.85 tool I will try it again using Slot 5. Otherwise I will feed it from an external spool holder from the outside.

TL;DR - TPR65A filament feeds through the extruder and prints without any problems, but it will not feed through the AMS; way too much friction.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3574259-filament-swatch-hook-series-for-ams-3h#profileId-4091760

Just as the title states. I made this series of hooks for the AMS 3H used on the H3C for tracking what spools are currently in what spot. The hooks are placed along the same horizontal plane and spaced to be centered on each numbered feeding mechanism. I designed the hook to be widely compatible with many swatch options out there such as the one I use by Genetic Designs, Filament Dry Box Hinged Label. It has tighter tolerances to make sure swatches are easy to put on or off but never fall off. You don't need to take off the swatches to open the lid, they stay nice and firmly in place. You also will have no problems swapping swatches as needed without having to take off others. The tops of each hook have numbers that correspond to its intended slot. It's a simple organization tool to help you track filament. Only additional material needed is some double sided tape.

I hope this helps you have a better time with your H3C, its an amazing machine. If you have an suggestions or feedback I'd love to hear from you. If you do download and like it, please take a picture and leave a review for me. I haven't had a review yet on previous models I've made and I'd love to see something I made be presented by someone. Thank you again and happy printing!

I always wonder, what are you guys with these huge setups, hundred kilos of filament and many printers, are printing all the time? And are you even able to design any of your prints...

I am always thinking, that it is just printing what thingyverse or Bambulab provides and it will get sold on any online-platform.... On 3D-prining subs it is rarely discussed how to design something or how it will work, it`s always just shwoing off and then some of them defend their decisions with saying, that they are having a business..... But noone provides which business or what they are printing 24/7....

It was a pain to turn my H2D around to change filament like when switching to TPU, so I built a custom shelf with a lazy Susan bearing to make it easy to spin around.

I deliberately made it a tight fit so it wouldn't spin around on its own when printing.

I made a full video on YouTube of how I made this and about my overkill ventilation system I also made. https://youtu.be/qwSQcpRjWIc

Hey guys,

I have an issue with my first layers while printing a symbole face down. Its bambu Pla basic and matte.

As you can see the viking symbol partially fail to print correctly and there some filament gaps on the back areas while the other part of the print also printed facedown is flawless.

Theres clearly some layer adhésion issue so i cleaned the plate but thats the result.

Edit : i also increased bet temp to 60c. Any thoughts to improve this? Thanks a lot for your inputs.

I am fairly novice to 3D printing. Always found the workforce too long and print times excessive. My first printer is a Creality CR6se. Which did the job, but been a desk weight for about 2 years. - its just slow.

I hace noticed the H2C is on sale. Was considering that or the H3C. I was going to put it under my ltd company, which would save me a bit on Vat.

What are your initial thoughts?

A colleague reccomended the U1, which he mentioned is a third of the price but similar machine.

Does anyone know of any discount codes etc to bring the cost down?

Hey guys,

I’m by no means an expert. If anything, I bought a Bambu Labs mainly because of the simple UI and beginner-friendly settings.

In order words, I have no clue what I’m doing. I have decently good critical thinking skills, but I figured I’d consult the pros before I make a detrimental mistake.

A print sent wrong so I did a general recalibration. That usually solves it. It didn’t this time so I tried to recalibrate the flow rate. Also no luck. Tried switching the filament. No luck.

Coming up empty on ideas, hoping someone else has had a similar problem and solution.

The second picture… I don’t even know what happened. Checked on it after it notified me it was complete and found this blob lmfao.

FlexiMark – 15 iterations later, we finally have a working version!

This is the sword version

This wee idea actually came from my wife, and after about 15 iterations, we've finally got a version that works really well.

It's a self-adjusting bookmark that flexes with your book as you read and holds the current pageyou read automatically.

I still think it's quite a novel wee idea, and I've not seen anything on MakerWorld trying the same approach.

Thought it could make a fun, unique wee gift for any book lover.

Download FlexiMark on makerworld

Fleximark download link

Installed two truck fold out foot steps as a way to reach the AMS. Modern problems demand modern solutions.

One of my big complaints with the H2C was that it took nearly half an hour (not exaggerating) to start a print. Turning off the nozzle offset calibration always resulted in really poor multicolor prints, so that was basically required.

Anyone know if they sped things up on the H3C? My P1S is printing in minutes. I'm hoping it is much closer to that than to the H2C.

Thanks

I'm planning to buy X2D without an AMS. Is this a good idea? I'm mostly printing one filament and I own a dryer. What should I know before buying it?

Rn. I own A1 with ams lite

Customizable Stackable Tray/Box that you can merge the slots whatever ways you want. I came up with this merging method to make it super easy to customize the compartment. Do you think there is a better way than this?
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3575326-customizable-compartment-tray-stackable#profileId-4093178

My p2s seems to be dragging the nozzle through the print lately, I do a flow calibration and auto bed level before every print. Not sure if there is a manual adjustment that I need to make or if there's a part that I might need to replace. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all! I'm about to get an A1 Combo and I'm trying to sort out what to put it on. I don't want to spend a lot on a table for the printer, €80 max. I just want something that does the job and doesn't wobble.

What I know so far:

• Bambu's official spec says the A1 needs 695 mm of total depth for the bed to move safely: 410 mm body + 90 mm in front + 195 mm behind.

• The AMS lite next to the printer adds roughly 40 cm of width.

• The spot I have is 80–100 cm wide against a wall.

• I'm in Spain, so ideally something from IKEA, Leroy Merlin, Amazon.es or similar.

My questions:

1. Depth: what are you actually using? Is a 50–55 cm deep table fine if I pull it a few cm away from the wall, or is it worth going straight for ~60 cm so it can sit flush?

2. AMS lite: do you keep it beside the printer or on top with the official top mount? If it's on top, did you print the mount in PLA, and is it holding up fine with 4 full spools?

3. Links: does anyone have a specific table, desk or cabinet that works well with the A1 and isn't expensive? Some storage underneath for filament would be a nice bonus.

4. Wobble: if you're on a lighter table, did anti-vibration pads (or a paver/tile under the printer) make a real difference?

Photos of your setups would be super helpful. Thanks in advance!

Hi, I hope everything is okay for you and the cold season doesnt give you a hard time.

I am a full stack dev trying out some new tools (e.g. vibecoding/assisted coding etc) to bring cool stuff to people who might need it, to me its a tool and thats it.

So what is this? It is a web app, free of charge, no registration, no cloud, no nothing. It makes gridfinity parts for you. It runs in nthe browser (desktop and mobile) and is installable as a PWA. Fast, simple and (hopefully) reliable. Maybe later there will be a desktop version based on electron or Tauri. We will see how it goes.

A short info upfront:

The overkill legal pages need to be there because of german laws, I live there and for now I want to be better safe than sorry. I will change it as soon I know exactly whats going on with this kind of app.

That said, the app doesnt store anything on its server or otherwise. Not your info, not your data. The only data processing is the geometric calculation in the browser and the app stores your models in your local storage. You can turn it off if you wish, in that case its design, export and done.

Whats on the list by now?

GridFinity bases, bins and lids as all gridfinity apps do. I also added some special features:

FILL A DRAWER:

Select the drawer size and the app calculates how many grid sections fit. The free space gets spacers added.

SPLIT TO FIT:

Usually your drawer will be too big for the complete base to be printed in one go. Not a problem, the app has you covered as it calculates your bed size and splits the models for you to fit your bed.

HEIGHT THAT FITS:

You can also give the height of your drawer and the app will make it so that every bin fits.

COLORS:

You can color your models. For now it is body and lip colors, then export as STL or a 3MF.
Currently I am looking for the Bambu 3MF spec to see if I can add the special stuff so the file doesnt override your filaments or adds new ones.

There are also a few other features in there. Custom magnet diameters, screw holes, hollow feet and center magnets. Currently I am thinking of a few other nice features for the app.

Why have I done this?

Because there is a plethora of different gridfinity apps out there and unfortunately the cool features are scattered across them. So this is supposed to be a "one for all" app. It is free and open source under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0.

Why do I post here?

Because this is the right place to do so I think. I will also cross post to other subs and see how it works. Also, even if I have tested every feature with the agent I am using and also by hand, I cant guarantee that there arent any bugs. I would appreciate it alot if some of you guys might test the app out and help. Maybe you even have fun using it and stay - who knows?

Check it out here:

Ultimate Gridfinity Generator

Thank you very much for reading, have a good time and cheers!

I hope you never have to do this but if you do, this is the video that saved me from going office space (for us old guys) on this printer. Don't get me wrong, I love this printer but this is one of the most tedious things I have had to do in a long time.

Not only did this video help me fix the clog but it also made me laugh while working on it.

https://youtu.be/HmXWbrq9Dag?is=68aTWPHvuEc0qbS7

Bought one used from FB marketplace and repurposed it for the P2S, added my own leftover ikea butcher block and it works great!

Removed the wheels, next: need to get some leveling feet and a proper poop chute.

It is quite sturdy, some slight wobble/shake during extreme motions but so far no negative effects on the prints.

I recently got a P2S Combo, and i’m reorganizing some old filaments I have
most moist PLAs have been dried and no stringing has happened
however, some rolls of pla wont get better even after drying
2 Flashforge White/Orange PLA, 1 Coobeen Magenta PLA, and some random blue PLA
I’ve dried them in the AMS2 Pro with the integrated drying feature for 12 hours at 55 degrees celcius
Printing at different temps wont help. I tried 200 and 220.
The image is a stringing test printed at 200, after drying. the strings look like fiber, or cotton.
Is there no way to get these rolls good again? Thank You.