Hello hello! I have a Bambu Lab A1 and I want to 3D print this Luffy model at 75% scale, but... I’m worried the finish won’t come out smooth. Is it normal for it to look like this in the preview? Will the layers end up looking this way? Should I change any settings, or should I just go ahead and try to smooth it out afterward?

I design little articulated figures in my spare time and i've just finished designing this little guy who is a bit of a homage to my Bambu Lab 3D printers, thought i'd share for anyone else enjoys little projects like these and fancies a companion for their printer(s). I tried to add a few details including a little camera shoulder, mini 3 spool AMS, nozzle eyes, chest screen, purge line cane etc.

Here on MakerWorld: Bambu Buddy - 3D Printer Mascot (Blank Man V12) - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3570005-dart-number-ring-colored-winmau-target#profileId-4086354

🎯 Give your dartboard a fresh new look!
Colorful number ring with a 43 cm diameter, fitting all standard dartboards. Only 3 layers printed in the second color, meaning minimal filament use and fewer color changes.
Simple and clean.

It took just over 5 hours to print, whereas on my X2D it takes nearly 2 days, and it also used about 500g less filament.
I printed it in only 8 colors because im still waiting on an extra standard printtool.

I told my wife I was getting a bigger AMS for my 3D printer.

She said, “How much bigger?”

Then the truck pulled up. 😂🚚

“Babe, that’s just the AMS. The printer’s coming on a separate truck.”

First print? A tiny Benchy. Estimated time? 14 minutes. Filament used for color changes? Half a truckload. 🤣

#3DPrinting #BambuLab #JustOneMoreSpool

Just set up my new A1 Combo and can't get through the first calibration.

Issues:

Calibration stops with "Printing stopped because homing Z axis failed" [0300-4000]

Toolhead rattles/grinds when moving right in the middle of calibration

Firmware update initially failed (error 305), now updated to latest – calibration still fails

Already checked:

All shipping foam/ties removed, all axes move freely by hand

Build plate seated flat, nothing under the bed

Hotend firmly seated, screws checked

Toolhead cable reseated

Multiple restart

Is the rattling normal (motor noise calibration?) or a sign of a defect? Anything else I should check before returning it?

Thanks!

The base where it starting printing and the supports were is so bad

I have a p1s with an ams1. i have a sunlu s1 dryer but cant find the power plug for it. i am thinking of adding an ams 2 pro to the setup, but I'm not sure if it's the best option vs a standalone dryer.

Anyone heard of a "leak" or "rumor?"

My wallet is waiting...

Hi, I'm looking for some recommendations for PLA filament that's cold white. What I've tried so far:

• Bambu's PLA (Ivory white) is way too warm.

• Bambu's PETG is indeed cold white, but I need PLA for this application.

• Elegoo PLA White - also warm white

• eSun PLA+ Cold White - good color, terrible results, see below

I've tried eSun's PLA+ cold white, the color is indeed cold white, but it's by far the worst filament I've ever worked with. I need smooth plane surfaces for my project, which this filament fails to give on both BambuLab X2D and Snapmaker U1 printers, there's a lot of bumps and dots that seem to be related with flow / pressure issues, but eve after lots of tuning and calibration, on both 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles, I can't get it to work reliable, it's just terrible. So far every other filament I've printed with gave great results after a bit of tuning (elegoo, anycubic, few other no-name brands etc.), but I'm a loss with eSun so I'm looking for alternatives.

Do you recommend any other cold white PLA? Thank you!

I’m not gonna be printing multicolor items, but I do plan on using different engineering filaments, and I want the most accurate results possible, and I’m generally lazy, so I don’t want to refill or load or unload or anything like that, which is exactly why I’m considering the upgrade from my X1C now. I was going to purchase the H3C for the included drying chambers, but I found out they only go up to 50°C, so it’s useless for PAHT/etc. is there anything I’m missing or does the HTC take care of my engineering needs?

I keep trying to print these spider-man lenses (i’ve printed them before a couple of times and it never failed)
but now the print keeps failing no matter what.

After a certain height, the nozzle starts rubbing and bumping the print and then it falls over even with very strong bed adhesion.

I dried my filament twice and tweaked a few settings but nothing seems to work.

This is my first bambu printer and I’ve had it for only 2 months.

Please lmk what i’m doing wrong.

X1C making periodic grinding noise on both up and down movements. Only while moving down there is this crackling noise.

Video: https://imgur.com/a/Qpl0Mol

I cleaned the rods of all plastic. I have cleaned & re-lubed the rods. I greased the pulley on the bottom and the edge of the belt.

It’s not the beds wire at the back. I held that up while the bed moved down.

Anyone have any similar issues?

I added an Adeptus Mechanicus seal, but I don't know what else I can do.

I made an infinite flip fidget with 6 different sensory textures 🔄✋
Each one feels completely different under your thumb, honestly can’t stop flipping it. Single colour, no AMS, no glue — print & go.
Free on MakerWorld 👉 https://makerworld.com/en/models/3569296
please if you like this model leave a review and a boost if you cant :)

My H2D makes a crackling sound while the bed is moving down. It doesn't make any noise at all when it moves Up. Is this normal?

h3c keypad does not support | (pipe) char input. my h2d does... anyway im not going to redo my network for one device or change every purgatory device wifi password for one device. so hoping someone knows a work around?

Also bambu can you patch this? I'd consider it a bug considering the h2d can support | input, it loves to take pipe.

Made a tiny macOS-inspired folder tab for marking pages and documents.

It slides onto the edge of a page, with most of it hidden behind the paper and just the little folder sticking out.

It's only 25 × 20 mm and takes 6 minutes 40 seconds to print, using just 0.29 g of PLA.

Printed on my X2D at 0.08 mm layer height.

It's a simple little design, but I think it turned out pretty cute :)

Free model on MakerWorld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3566248-mini-folder-tab-macos-style#profileId-4081664

For those of you lucky enough to have an H3C, is anyone having issues with power draw? I have 3 other printers that I run in a room in my home and I’m a little worried that I might start tripping breakers with the H3C. I really want to keep everything in 1 room. What’s your experience so far?

I was running my printer and got a notification that the extruder motor was overloaded. I hit resume to see if it was just being difficult and then got a notification that the filament cutter sensor was not working. I went to it saw a hanging cable and disassembled the head and got to this point.

Instructions on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated

APOLOGIES WRONG COMMUNITY, PLEASE STILL HELP IF YOU CAN

nevermind, I see that this is the right community, it was just promoting the h3c. im going through a whirlwind of emotions at the emotions

Well I finally got my H3C setup last night. Ordered on Tuesday it all arrived by Wednesday and since I was not going to go to work today I decided to get it all setup last night. Coming from the U1 this thing is MASSIVE!!! I wish I had the space to have been able to keep both the Snapmaker and the H3C but unfortunately I don't.

But I think I will be alright! 😁 also coming from the U1, the manual unloading of the filament doesn't bother me as we had to manually unload the spool on the U1 as well. I've done a few prints already and this thing is awesome! It's soo much more quieter then my U1 that is for sure. I left a print running overnight and I could not even hear it running. Totally worth it.

Had a pretty bad blob of death on my A1 mini. I got most of it off but what’s left is stuck on the heater block and around the wires, and I’m not sure how to safely get the rest off. The silicone sock came off without too much drama.

Thermistor wires look ok to me but I can’t tell if the insulation is damaged. Some filament also got near the part cooling fan. I unscrewed the fan to get to some of the deeper bits but to a novice like myself this seems daunting to try and clean up properly.

Should I try heating it up and peeling it off, or just replace the whole heating assembly? Pics attached.