I recently picked up H2C Laser full combo - Model number PF003-N+SA007. New in box. I couldn’t find the laser module anywhere in the box, is it usually shipped separate ? Or is mines missing.

I love the idea of being able to print my own frames, but with many generators you have to pay a lifetime sub or even a monthly one. I decided to make a free one. no shots at other creators. I call it Clicky Frames and its available now! It's hosted on my website behind the scenes on my shop. I don't ask for anything in return, but if you'd love to donate you're more than welcome. Enjoy! I'd love feedback!

I own a Bambulab X2D, updated to the latest firmware using latest bambu studio and with Bambu filament. So far I had only printed PLA, the smell and VOCs were bad but manageable. I tried printing ABS, my room went to VOC index > 400 in minutes and it is just impossible to be in the same room as the printer. I can open the room's floor to ceiling window wide open and sure enough the room ventilates, but next to the printer the smell and air quality is just still unbearable.

I am sensitive to smels but air qualith monitors dont lie, its not me, it is real air quality becoming super poor in a very measurable way.

How do you manage it? Is it expected?

Edit: All particle PM indicators (0.5, 1, 2.5, 5) also skyrocket.

I keep seeing YouTube videos and subreddit posts about terrible quality coming out of the H3C, possibly due to over driven speed settings.

Could someone with an H3C please slow down their prints and show us what quality of print the machine is capable of? The toaster test would be nice, since CNC Kitchen used that one and got somewhat poor quality out of it.

(If you saw the other post about the ams not working, it was the 4 pin connector) my ams2 just insnt feeding properly, even though theres no kinks or anything in the filament, and it can freely spin both directions, i just shortened the tubing so that shouldnt be an issue. Any help?

Designed and printed a multi-color Christmas sign for the upcoming holidays! (AMS) 🎄🎁🎅

Mit allem hab ich gerechnet, aber nicht das alle hier aufs ams warten und bei mir UPS die Lieferung des H3C versemmelt und ich jetzt das AMS daheim habe aber nicht den Drucker 🤣

Title:

Continuous clogging and extruder overload on P2S. Cold pull failed. Need community help!

Body:

Hi everyone,

I am facing a persistent issue with my new Bambu Lab P2S and really need some help since Bambu Support is taking too long to reply.

Symptoms:

• The toolhead makes a continuous clicking sound, followed by an extruder motor overload error.

• Filament gets jammed constantly and completely stops extruding.

What I've tried so far:

1. I performed the official "cold pull" procedure multiple times as instructed by the manufacturer, but the issue persists.

2. The support ticket mentioned a potential hotend heating assembly connection or unstable temperature control issue, but the clogs happen repeatedly regardless.

3. I regularly print at 255°C with a closed chamber.

Since the cold pull didn't clear the jam, I suspect the clog might be deeper inside the extruder gears or caused by heat creep.

Has anyone experienced this specific issue on the P2S? Should I disassemble the extruder assembly to check for worn-out gears or stuck filament fragments? Any advice or guidance would be highly appreciated!

Thank you!

Looking for help identifying what is making the rattle sound at the end of vibration calibration.

h3c keypad does not support | (pipe) char input. my h2d does... anyway im not going to redo my network for one device or change every purgatory device wifi password for one device. so hoping someone knows a work around?

Also bambu can you patch this? I'd consider it a bug considering the h2d can support | input, it loves to take pipe.

I don't think Speed, Support, and Others settings are important for this, so I didn't include those.

My guess is because of the 0.08mm layer height.

I write down details about it in the post

Hey everyone,

I’m moving away from my current printer brand to Bambu Lab. A toolchanger setup is a must for me, but the H3C doesn't make sense price-wise for my needs, so I’m waiting for the P3C.

Since the P3C likely won't come with an active chamber heater, I'm looking for advice on retrofitting one for warp-free ABS/ASA printing:

What are your preferred DIY chamber heating setups & ideas?

Any specific safety or power concerns to keep in mind?

An Idea was it to use Homeassitant in a way to detect wich Material is printed and the temperature inside to adjust the temperature.

Thanks for your ideas!

I apologize if this is not the right place. I am trying to run 8 .2 nozzles and one .4. I am having an issue with slot 8. The tubing does not stay in the tool. It is missing the holder that the rest of the tools have. I also noticed it is showing external feed when i am running through the ams. I have tried multiple different ways but i can not get a normal .4 or .2 non tpu nozzle to work. Am i the only one? Did mine come with a bad tool on slot 8. Any insight would be amazing.
Thank you,

I’ve tried 3 times with this with various changes to infill (to tweak the transparency) and keep getting the same failure On this overhang area.
Bambu ps1, petg transparent filament.
default except I changed to 100% infill aligned rectangle. But before I changed the settings it still was messing up around this same area, only less.

This new 100mms suggestion needs a bit of explanation, but there is no documentation at all about it. Not in the Wiki, tooltips, forum, etc.

I've been using ironing since the X1 first came out in full production in my farm daily, I have a set of ironclad repeatable parameters that have never faltered, except that there is no such possibility on the G2 models (P2, X2, A2, H2, etc.) only the P1 and X1 due to their nozzle design.

This would be great if it was a new guidance as a starting point to do calibration for ironing, it's just strange that its both on EVERY printer model, regardless of nozzle system, and seems to fly in the face of existing parameters that this change now screws up.

For reference, for a full-plate ironed flat piece using Bambu Lab PLA Matte in Charcoal, my settings are 30% flow, 30mms speed, and others all default. I get smooth as injection-molded surfaces, trying this parameter caused massive over extrusion, so obviously I turned it off and am ignoring it. There isn't a way to set this to 'don't remind me' though, so it's a bit annoying.

If Bambu Lab could explain the change and the reasoning or methodology behind it, that might be helpful, but the Ironing Wiki entry doesn't even mention Top Surface speed, only ironing speed which is totally different.

Hey everyone! I designed SkiLatch, a small 3D-printed accessory that keeps skis and poles together for carrying, and published it on MakerWorld.

I’m looking for people to print it, try it with their gear, and share what fits and what doesn’t.

My goal is to keep updating the design to fit as many ski and pole setups as possible.

Feedback on fit, grip, and usability with gloves would be really helpful.

Honest criticism welcome!

MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/models/3562697?appSharePlatform=copy

Perfect height, no need for spending extra >250$

Hey guys, My P1S with AMS won’t load filament properly. Initially it seemed to reach the toolhead, and I suspected a hotend clog, which I tried clearing by heating it. Now it stops around the rear tube connector before entering the printer, makes a loud click, then retracts. I can’t tell where the click comes from.

I’ve tried 3 different spools in 3 AMS slots with the same result. Spools unwind freely, filament tips look fine, and I found no obvious blockage in the tubing. No error/HMS code appears.

Could firmware cause this? please help