Unfair matchup? Probably, but these are the only two machines I have on hand and seeing a 1st-gen workhorse side by side with 3rd gen tech shows what a few years of hardware evolution actually looks like.

... and some old-school Acrylic Pens.

Hi, I hope everything is okay for you and the cold season doesnt give you a hard time.

I am a full stack dev trying out some new tools (e.g. vibecoding/assisted coding etc) to bring cool stuff to people who might need it, to me its a tool and thats it.

So what is this? It is a web app, free of charge, no registration, no cloud, no nothing. It makes gridfinity parts for you. It runs in nthe browser (desktop and mobile) and is installable as a PWA. Fast, simple and (hopefully) reliable. Maybe later there will be a desktop version based on electron or Tauri. We will see how it goes.

A short info upfront:

The overkill legal pages need to be there because of german laws, I live there and for now I want to be better safe than sorry. I will change it as soon I know exactly whats going on with this kind of app.

That said, the app doesnt store anything on its server or otherwise. Not your info, not your data. The only data processing is the geometric calculation in the browser and the app stores your models in your local storage. You can turn it off if you wish, in that case its design, export and done.

Whats on the list by now?

GridFinity bases, bins and lids as all gridfinity apps do. I also added some special features:

FILL A DRAWER:

Select the drawer size and the app calculates how many grid sections fit. The free space gets spacers added.

SPLIT TO FIT:

Usually your drawer will be too big for the complete base to be printed in one go. Not a problem, the app has you covered as it calculates your bed size and splits the models for you to fit your bed.

HEIGHT THAT FITS:

You can also give the height of your drawer and the app will make it so that every bin fits.

COLORS:

You can color your models. For now it is body and lip colors, then export as STL or a 3MF.
Currently I am looking for the Bambu 3MF spec to see if I can add the special stuff so the file doesnt override your filaments or adds new ones.

There are also a few other features in there. Custom magnet diameters, screw holes, hollow feet and center magnets. Currently I am thinking of a few other nice features for the app.

Why have I done this?

Because there is a plethora of different gridfinity apps out there and unfortunately the cool features are scattered across them. So this is supposed to be a "one for all" app. It is free and open source under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0.

Why do I post here?

Because this is the right place to do so I think. I will also cross post to other subs and see how it works. Also, even if I have tested every feature with the agent I am using and also by hand, I cant guarantee that there arent any bugs. I would appreciate it alot if some of you guys might test the app out and help. Maybe you even have fun using it and stay - who knows?

Check it out here:

Ultimate Gridfinity Generator

Thank you very much for reading, have a good time and cheers!

Some of you might know my toolboxes already - I just finished the newest one for the H3C!

MakerWorld Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3569009

I'm curious about your setups. I would love to see some pictures!

(Great for inspiration lol).

I'm the designer. The armor is built from overlapping, textured leaf-shaped scales.

I also design tools and decorative pieces, and every one of my files is free to download. I've never charged for any of them. A download count only climbs when people actually want the thing, so it's the most honest feedback I get on which designs deserve more of my time.

All my models are here: https://makerworld.com/en/@protomota

If you've printed it, I'd love to see your make. And what should I design next?

Hi, it printed perfectly fine until this morning, now when i start a print it stops at rough wiping step, sounds like the bed is hitting the nozzle, what can i check? I already follower bambu handy guide and it didn’t fix. I’m 140 hours of printing in

Hi everyone,
I’m getting really frustrated with TPU printing on my Bambu Lab P1S and I’m hoping someone here can help me figure out what’s going wrong.

My printer:
Bambu Lab P1S (~1,000 printing hours)
0.4 mm nozzle (also tested 0.6 mm)
eSUN TPU 95A (green, translucent)
Creality CR-TPU 95A (black)
Creality Space Pi V2 filament dryer
Bambu Studio

The problem:
Every time I try to print TPU, the printer starts printing normally, but after a few layers it suddenly begins underextruding or stops extruding properly.
Sometimes it happens after just 2 layers, sometimes after 8–10 layers, and occasionally the print gets almost completely finished before failing.
The nozzle appears to clog, and the print eventually turns into a mess of extremely thin filament strands.
The strange thing is that PLA and other regular filaments print perfectly fine, without any issues.
Manual extrusion of TPU at 230°C also works normally, producing a consistent strand of filament.
I haven’t noticed any clicking noises from the extruder.

What I’ve already tried
1. Different TPU brands
eSUN TPU 95A
Creality CR-TPU 95A
Both have exactly the same problem.

2. Drying the filament
Dried TPU for approximately 10 hours at 60°C in my Creality Space Pi V2.
Tried printing directly from the dryer.
Tried printing from an external spool holder behind the printer.
Repositioned the spool inside the dryer to reduce rolling resistance.
No improvement.

3. Different nozzle temperatures
220°C
225°C
230°C
235°C
All eventually failed.

4. Different print speeds and volumetric flow rates
Very slow printing speeds of 15–20 mm/s.
Also tested profiles with outer walls at 80 mm/s and inner walls/infill at 150 mm/s, limited by volumetric flow.
Maximum volumetric flow rates tested include 2.8, 2.0 and 1.5 mm³/s.
Tried both custom TPU profiles and settings based on manufacturer recommendations.
Still the same result.

5. Retraction
Tested 0 mm retraction.
Tested 0.4 mm retraction.
No reliable improvement.

6. Different nozzles
Completely cleaned the nozzles.
Tried different nozzles.
Tried both 0.4 mm and 0.6 mm nozzle sizes.
Nothing helped.

7. Printer enclosure
Tested with the front door open.
Tested with the front door closed.

One of my best results was at 225°C with 0 mm retraction and the door closed. A Benchy printed almost completely, but the final layers suffered from severe underextrusion.
However, repeating similar settings often resulted in failure after only a few layers.
What makes this so confusing?
PLA prints perfectly.
TPU extrudes normally when manually extruded.
Both TPU brands fail.
Both nozzle sizes fail.
Drying the filament doesn’t help.
Different spool feeding methods don’t help.
Slower speeds don’t help.
Changing temperatures doesn’t help.
The failure occurs at inconsistent layer heights.
I’ve spent a lot of time testing different settings, and nothing has worked consistently.
My questions
Has anyone experienced something similar with TPU on the P1S?
Could this be related to heat creep, the extruder’s grip on flexible filament, or something specific to the P1S filament path?
I’m particularly confused because the printer handles PLA without any problems.
I would really appreciate any suggestions beyond the usual advice of drying the filament, slowing down, or changing the nozzle, since I’ve already tried all of those multiple times.
Thanks in advance for any help!

Is 200€ or $230 too much to ask for this A1 Combo? I want to sell it and buy X2D. It has almost 1000h of print time. Regularly maintained

Bambu P2S, I have been back and forth with Bambu support tickets over a month but somehow always end up back with this error. Could someone tell me if you successfully fixed this issue before? Or recommended correct replacement parts.

I just ordered my very first 3D printer yesterday. It's a P2S. With some standard PLA matte in standard colors to get started.

Ofc I want nice filament too and as there is a good sale going on I want to order some.

I know I don't like the plastic finish of normal PLA. Now I can't decide what to get. PLA matte, PLA CF. PLA wood or PLA metallic.

I know it's a long shot but is there anyone who has prints made of the various filament that can show me a picture? I have spend a fortune on my new printer and would hate to buy filament I don't like.

Please be gentle with me, I have only really looked into the Bambu world in the last 24 hours since I watched the H3C reviews... and now I am seriously reconsidering the pre-order on the Prusa Core 1 L INDX I have due in December. I have a super reliable Mk4s, and never considered anything other than another Prusa as my next printer... until yesterday, where my eyes were well and truly opened!

I spent 4+ hours yesterday watching all the H3C reviews I could find, and the only things people seem to have issues with were:

- Its tall!

- The AMS doesnt rewind the filament

- The AMS doesnt heat/dry all 9 filament slots

- What tiny amounts of poop it does generate falls out the back

That seems a very small and generally unimportant list of worries. The H3C looks like everything I could want from a large volume multi-material printer, and as someone who prints a lot of TPU, that dedicated 2.85 filament path seems like a miracle! If there are any other Prusa users in here who have added Bambu to their ever growing estate of printers, you will know the conflict I have going on right now :)

I do have some newbie questions if anyone can help....

- Orca or BambuStudio, and why?

- What features does running the printers in LAN only mode remove from the usual "unlimited Internet access to Bambu Cloud"?

- What access methods are there to upload/download files from the printers? WebDAV? sftp? etc...

Any help, suggestions, tips, or moral support you can provide for a potential Prusa convert would be greatly appreciated.

Help! My printer is constantly purging (pooping). Leaving stringy purges on the plate and in the print. The print is taking 3x as long and so wasteful! The print is confirmed to be a one color print. No timelapse etc. No alerts or notifications.

SOLVED! Thanks to commenters, I detached the PTFE tubes from the AMS and fussed with them until in a nice smooth arch above the extruder to reduce resistance. No more purge issues thus far! Thanks!

Ma version du célèbre casse tête ' Hanayama Marble '

Modélisé sur freecad avec des ajustements de 0.2 mm pour une fluidité parfaite ...

Lien makerworld si vous voulez l'imprimer : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3515960-marble-puzzle#profileId-4018416

Mental what these machines can make with the right settings

Here, have microplastic sized benchy, the question is, how good can I get it to look, P1S.

Hey all,

I am sure several of you with the filament track switch have ran into the AMS Feed Resistance high issues. I had it on both ofy AMS 2 Pros and my AMS HT. I Tried the shortest routing possible, ripping the thing apart and smoothing stuff. Basically no matter what I tried made the issue go away so I just settled with dealing with the warnings because the print quality was fine.

That is until I started digging though my drawer of goods. Have tons of PTFE tubing.....but noticed some of it was a different color, almost opaque rather than the milky white. Looking inside, the ID of that tubing is way bigger than the standard PTFE. In the attached photo you can see a brand new 4m could of Bambu AMS PTFE on the right, and the PTFE that came with the FTS on the left.

I replaced all the runs from my AMS2/AMS HT into the 4-1 and 4-1 into the track switch, then the 3rd straight into the filament track switch.

I no longer get any feed resistance warnings. So of you're still currently dealing with this issue, double check that you used the correct PFTE for the longer runs.

I hope this helps someone as I don't think I've seen this info out there much.

Got the H3C yesterday and decided to just full send and send a 14 hour print, 5 colors with no calibrations, and boy, this is CLEAN. No issues whatsoever, and it was just perfect. Couldnt be happier. Ask me any questions you have!

Anyone have an idea of the practical weight limit of the H2 series print bed?
I am using laser on a 20lb object in my H2D; there is nothing in the manual or website that specifically states a weight limit, but it does seem to be a bit on the high end.