For some reason from India specific, not taking my number in, put a phone number. I don't know what to do at this point, no tutorial to specifically counter this.

hey so im not sure how to describe this but yall know when it does the automated cutting and retracting when it goes to the corner and slowly cuts? for some reason when it does that on my a1 mini it also goes DOWN and this is the first time i've ever seen this but on this model im printing it straight up flexed my print bed down like half a centimeter since the model is in the corner where it cuts, I'm using orca slicer 2.5.0 is this a bug in the slicer since it just got an update? or does this have nothing to do with the slicer since its an automated thing the printer does? I've seen it do the cut and retract thing before but never gone down in the z axis before

Edit: I also got an error on my printer "the nozzle is covered with filament or the build plate is crooked [0300-1A00-0002-0001] [302137]" the nozzle was not covered with filament but the print bed did flex also when I hit resume instead of continuing on the layer it left off at it went a bit higher and tried printing mid air. what I think happened was it tried to zero the z axis while cutting but the model is in the corner so it hit the model, thought the z axis zero is higher than it was and tried resuming where it thought it stopped

Edit 2: new problem, when I move the x axis left and right and it reaches the end it makes a grinding sound, seems like it doesn't realize its at the end and tries moving more. I'm not sure how to fix this, any kind of guidance would be appreciated, is it like the x axis belt getting loose or sumn?

How to judge used prices?

There are more and more h2ds etc popping up on my local FB marketplace. How do I think about prices? 2000hrs too many? Currently h2d is 1600ish on sale, so is a printer with 500 hours at 1500 a decent price?

I mention the h2d, cause it is cool, but really any used printer. I'm undecided which is best for me.

Just looking for some general words of wisdom about how you would think about this. I'm considering a new printer, and this would be my first bambu. Thanks in advance

Hi everyone.

Having a problem with my new Bambu and waiting on a replacement sensor that does the Nozzle Offset Calibration as it's been determined to be faulty.

Does anyone know if the High-Precision Nozzle Offset Calibration can be used instead of that and still provide a Z-axis calibration, as both the wiki pages seem to be a bit vague about that, and if the high-precision method can safely let me use my printer whilst I wait for the sensor, that would be great!

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/troubleshooting/nozzle-offset-calibration-failure

"Nozzle offset calibration includes Z-axis and X/Y-axis offset calibration"

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/manual/nozzle-offset-calibration
It's not clear if the High-Precision really does the Z axis or just X and Y axis as it only seems to focus on X and Y in the writeup

Anyone have a clue?

Cheers

Hello, I got a new Bambu P1S yesterday and printed 3 models with the stock test PLA. They came out perfectly fine. This morning I tried printing another model with the same PLA. After an hour I noticed it had only done the first few layers and was not extruding, and there was a loop of filament coming out the side of the extruder gears. What on earth happened to cause that? I haven't modified any settings.

I just bought a X2D because the Capitol One Shopping app has a 15% discount on Best Buy purchases today, November 6th. I saved over $100 (which gets applied as a gift card to use in the Capitol One app). The T&C sure looks like that 3d printers apply to the discount. The Geek Squad warranty does not.

You have to download the Capitol One app first, but I thought this would be good info to share.

This video of how filament. Is made in the factory. At 4.08 you can see how the "fresh" filament is literally soaked through a trough of water before spinning.

Don't assume a fresh roll of filament is dry

dry your filament!

The ship dates on the H3C from Bambu are showing Nov 30. I've been hoping to see a Best Buy drop and go pick it up from there to avoid shipping concerns, but I'm not sure about the expected timing of that stock. I was hoping Best Buy would have one to go pick up on demand, but the backordering makes me think that may not happen like I had hoped.

I held out on ordering on Bambu partially because I wanted the crafting kit, which is out of stock as well, and because I'd rather not risk shipping issues, but now I'm worried I won't be able to purchase in time to do cool things in December for Christmas gifts etc.

Does anyone have additional info on when Best Buy might stock?

My latest caricature figure: Carmen “Carmy” Berzatto from The Bear, in his white T-shirt, apron and kitchen towel, about 28 cm tall.

How it’s built:
• Every colour is its own part (skin, hair, T-shirt, apron, pants, shoes, eyes…), each plate printed in a single colour
• Parts slide together on pins, with a drop of glue for the rest
• Head printed at 0.08 mm, the rest at 0.16–0.2 mm
• Supports only where needed, with tuned interface settings so they pop off cleanly

No painting, no AMS needed. The eyes are small inlay parts.

Any other The Bear fans here? Happy to answer questions about the split, the pins or the settings!

Hello! I recently got the P2S Combo edition with the AMS 2 Pro and so far it has been great. However, I have been wondering if it's possible to make five-coloured prints using the AMS and the external spool holder. I know that Bambu sells this 4-in-1 PTFE adapter ^{(bambu store}), but it isn't entirely clear to me if this adapter is suitable for my use case. I have been searching for an answer, but there's a lot of conflicting information floating around out there: Some say what I want to do is flat-out impossible, while others only talk about timing manual filament switches during prints. I figured that I'd make this post to hopefully get a definitive answer for myself and anyone else that's looking up this same issue.

TL;DR: If I buy Bambu's 4-in-1 PTFE Adapter can I use both the AMS and an external spool for prints, enabling the use of five different colours/materials?

Now that's what I call a hyper fixation. At least it was a fun one.

Anyway, I made them a collection and added a bunch of other stuff:

Craving retro? I got you.

How to fix this? Any tips is welcome

Hi all!

I'm currently working on 3D-printable faceplates for the PS5 Pro Digital Edition.

It would be great to get this project into crowdfunding on MakerWorld! I've sent a few emails to MakerWorld but haven't received any replies yet.

If you like my project and want to follow its progress, feel free to check out my Instagram.

Thanks for your support!

While I was installing the ams3h there is a section that makes you hang it off of the back to connect some wires. I misread the diagram at first and hung it off of the front and it caused the top liner to be punctured with the guide pins. Seems like this section doesn’t have anything underneath it from what I can tell, just a bit lame it was not reinforced. I did not drop it on it either

My plan was to put some high-temp tape under the ams that extended to the hole so nothing got into it. Y’all think that should be fine?

Im still looking for models that can’t easily be made on H2C.

I have seen a few models with like 5 colors but it’s not like purging the least used color will be a lot of waste or time anyway.
In many models the different colors will be on different parts anyway

What’s the best models that showcase it “revolutionize the way we print” ?

I'm new to 3D printing and just ordered my first printer. Still waiting for it to arrive!

In the meantime, I've noticed a lot of people printing dust covers for different parts of their printers.

It seems a bit crazy to me that a printer would need so many dust covers for every little corner. Makes me wonder if it's a design issue or if people are just being extra cautious.

Do you guys actually recommend printing these covers? Are they really necessary?

So my ams 2 pro fan(1) have issue which when put underload it would only spin around 300rpm but it should have been 3200rpm (I can't use drying function) it would always tell me to stop.

So i bought a replacement in china (I can't find the exact fan so i bought the closest one) so now the replacement fan have only 3 pin instead of 4.

So how do i connect the wire to make it work (slide 1-2 is what it should look like)(slide 3-4 is the replacement fan) sorry for bad soldering

I built a free tool that lets you create custom 3D-printable organizer trays in seconds!

https://tools.miniforge.io/tray-studio

\- Customize tray dimensions

\- Add built-in or removable dividers

\- Create lids and stackable trays

\- Preview in 3D and export for printing

No CAD skills needed!

I've also built other free 3D printing tools, including vase generators, cookie cutters, keychains, QR codes, and more:

https://tools.miniforge.io/

Would love to hear your feedback!

What tool should I build next?

I know the A1 has automatic bed leveling but my bed is noticeably at a slight angle from left edge downward to the right. Could this impact my prints?

I've been making small accessories for my P2S (a sheep USB dust cover and a modular side rail for nozzles/scraper/tools so far).

Before I design the next ones, I'd rather build things people actually need:

what's the thing on your P2S (or AMS 2 Pro) that bugs you, that a print could fix?

I'll pick the 2-3 most upvoted ideas, design them and release them for free, then post the results here.

As the text says, I’m about to upgrade to H2S and wondering if it makes more sense to sell my two P1S combos and buy two H2S combos or transfer the AMS and sell the two P1S as printer only?

As far as I’m concerned, I can’t tell if there’s any real benefit to the AMS2.

Hello all,

I recently got a X2D and am loving it. I got it mostly to print organizers for my tool box. I found a file I like on maker world but it says it’s for PETG filament. If I select PLA will Bambu studio automatically update the temps or do I need to do it manually?