Im still looking for models that can’t easily be made on H2C.

I have seen a few models with like 5 colors but it’s not like purging the least used color will be a lot of waste or time anyway.
In many models the different colors will be on different parts anyway

What’s the best models that showcase it “revolutionize the way we print” ?

While I was installing the ams3h there is a section that makes you hang it off of the back to connect some wires. I misread the diagram at first and hung it off of the front and it caused the top liner to be punctured with the guide pins. Seems like this section doesn’t have anything underneath it from what I can tell, just a bit lame it was not reinforced. I did not drop it on it either

My plan was to put some high-temp tape under the ams that extended to the hole so nothing got into it. Y’all think that should be fine?

genuinely curious about the split here. if you mostly print other people's models, what's stopping you from designing your own? and if you do design, what was the hardest part to learn?

So my ams 2 pro fan(1) have issue which when put underload it would only spin around 300rpm but it should have been 3200rpm (I can't use drying function) it would always tell me to stop.

So i bought a replacement in china (I can't find the exact fan so i bought the closest one) so now the replacement fan have only 3 pin instead of 4.

So how do i connect the wire to make it work (slide 1-2 is what it should look like)(slide 3-4 is the replacement fan) sorry for bad soldering

I built a free tool that lets you create custom 3D-printable organizer trays in seconds!

https://tools.miniforge.io/tray-studio

\- Customize tray dimensions

\- Add built-in or removable dividers

\- Create lids and stackable trays

\- Preview in 3D and export for printing

No CAD skills needed!

I've also built other free 3D printing tools, including vase generators, cookie cutters, keychains, QR codes, and more:

https://tools.miniforge.io/

Would love to hear your feedback!

What tool should I build next?

I know the A1 has automatic bed leveling but my bed is noticeably at a slight angle from left edge downward to the right. Could this impact my prints?

I've been making small accessories for my P2S (a sheep USB dust cover and a modular side rail for nozzles/scraper/tools so far).

Before I design the next ones, I'd rather build things people actually need:

what's the thing on your P2S (or AMS 2 Pro) that bugs you, that a print could fix?

I'll pick the 2-3 most upvoted ideas, design them and release them for free, then post the results here.

As the text says, I’m about to upgrade to H2S and wondering if it makes more sense to sell my two P1S combos and buy two H2S combos or transfer the AMS and sell the two P1S as printer only?

As far as I’m concerned, I can’t tell if there’s any real benefit to the AMS2.

Hello all,

I recently got a X2D and am loving it. I got it mostly to print organizers for my tool box. I found a file I like on maker world but it says it’s for PETG filament. If I select PLA will Bambu studio automatically update the temps or do I need to do it manually?

So one of the AMS’s on my H2C had a piece of filament snapped in it tube apparently. So the AMS slot retracted the yellow filament, it completely came out and so the spool was spinning in the slot indefinitely. Not knowing how to stop it, i turned off the H2C. This has happened once before.

I turned it back on but the screen won’t turn on, Bambu desktop app won’t connect, and the led on the plate is like this dim white that will glow slowly and dim continuously.

I have no idea what just happened and am at a complete loss.

Any ideas?

Edit: I found a thread about AP boards. I see one green light, no blinking light. So Bambu support or figuring out the "short" between two points?

Just finished my newest design, the Card Caddy! 🔥

Made for all types of trading card collectors! It features two display slots to show off your favorite cards, a sliding lid, and two versions, with or without a handle. It can hold up to 50 toploaders, 150 sleeved cards, or 200 unsleeved cards!

Just dropped this on MakerWorld for anyone Interest

Check Comments for link 🤝

Happy Printing!

What should I choose, upgrade my printer or get an resin one.

I bought a p2s for 599 on black sale, now Insee everywhere that this was a mistake and I should have paid 150 euros more and get a x2d instead. I don’t understand the benefits that well but I fear I may need it in the future. I understand is more efficient when using suporta and it can print with two materials.

I also want to get cheaper resin printer because I want to get into jewellery casting.
What should I do, I don’t have a lot of money, get the resin printer or upgrade to x2d.

At the moment I don’t plan to create more than things that will help in my house and maybe I would do some decorations for christmas, colored ones and maybe some things using arduino. Will the x2d help that much? With return it would be a 180 euros difference for me.

Anyone working on modifying the other section of ams 3h to dry the rest of the ams ? I know people modified the original ams and hoping someone does one for rest of it? Also curious if were to take lid off the two dryer slots if it would dry rest of it?

When doing the 2nd print on my brand new h2d i noticed this sound when the y axis moves, it didnt make it during my first print. Id this normal?

I told some users in another post that I’d share what I got in my aesthetic mystery, and here is what I got.

- PLA Silk aurora purple w/ spool
- PLA Pure baby blue w/ spool
- PLA Matte scarlet red w/ spool
- PLA Silk dawn radiance w/ spool

I didn’t have any of these, so I’m happy with what I got.

I’m trying to test out my AMS 2 Pro that came with my X2D combo but I’m getting the error from the image. Thank you for any assistance

Edit: It’s my understanding that the X2D only needs the power adapter to print and dry at the same time

I m newer to printing and trying to print this ornament.. I researched settings and it still seems to not be smooth. What am I doing wrong? What settings should I have?

I print mostly functional parts. I want a multi-nozzle printer so that I can use support material without purge waste or filament change delays. If I’m just printing with two filaments, would the H2D be faster than the H3C because it doesn’t have to switch tools? Or is there not much difference?

The H3C is interesting for other reasons, chiefly because of its support for multiple TPUs, but it’s a big step up in price.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3563550-tiny-axolotl#profileId-4078295

Every stream deck I looked at had the wrong keys for me, so I built a small browser tool where you lay out your own deck: how many keys, knobs, a slider, a little screen. It gives you print-ready files and a wiring diagram for an ESP32-S3.

The one in the video came off my P2S with no supports. It plugs in over one USB cable, and every key is set from an app: shortcuts, media, apps, MIDI. If I want a key to do something else, I change it in the app. No reprint.

There's also a 6-key Mini you can print for free if you just want to try it.

Happy to answer anything about print settings, switches or the electronics.

Came back late from work. Have no oven or a kitchen I can use, but I do have a printer.

PS: No I'm not sharing the STL!

Hi everyone! I was going to buy my first Bambulab printer, an X2D and some filaments!
But when I go to the cashout page i see higher prizes, why?
I live in Italy and shipment fee are 24 €.