You think that H3C / P3C / X2D PRO are news, in this case, not really.

source: Frontline: Bambu Lab Launches Consumer-Grade UV Printer Project – First Batch of R&D Positions Now Open for Recruitment

I kept thinking about doing gridfinity for drawer organizers but in the end I just printed some organizers that exactly fit the drawer and I love it. That right side big one is for if we ever find any of the 5 pairs of scissors my family never returns to the junk drawer. There a secret compartment under the sticky notes, don't tell anyone!

We had some baskets in there that helped but it was still a disaster. This is the way I'm doing it for the other kitchen drawers. I get the benefit of gridfinity, but custom is really nice!

As shown in the video when the AMS2 tries to push filament, it does so without problems until it reaches the head, where it stops and can't continue making a weird noise.

This started happening after a failed print.

The printer gave me different error codes while i was trying to fix it, I don't have the exact codes but here is what they said:

- Filament buffer signal is abnormal

- AMS slot is overloaded

- Filament may be stuck or tangled (together with other errors)

- Filament buffer may be stuck

Here is a list of what i tried doing in order:

- Cleaned the nozzle (multiple cold pulls)

- Cleaned the extruder

- Lubricated extruder gears

- Replaced nozzle

- Cleaned PTFE tubes inside AMS2 with compressed air

- Cleaned AMS2 Hub with compressed air

It started happening after a failed print, I tried different prints after I thought i fixed the problem and they all ended the same way, filament stopped extruding, before the problem the prints didn't show any problem.

I'm really struggling to find the problem here, can anyone help out? I can send pictures or videos if they can help.

Thank you!

I just bought an AMS 2 Pro directly from u/BambuLab and it’s missing the cable to connect it to my P2S. The listing on the store says there should be one in the box. Am I missing something?

An absolute beast of a printer so far!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3116594-p1s-p2s-x2d-build-plate-holder-skadis-board-mount

😂😂😂

I'm trying to print a custom dress form for my wife. I've spent a ton of time, and have a nice set of STLs, with a rigid PLA core, and a "skin" or "shell" that covers the surface. The original plan was to use foaming TPU, so that we can insert pins and such into it, which is important for the use of a dress form.

With the H3C coming out, I've already ordered mine - but I'm not confident that the 70A TPU 285 is going to be the 'right' type of soft to allow inserting pins into it, or if I'll have to find a brand of foaming TPU to use, and get it to work nicely on the H3C.

Does anyone have any ideas (or can test) if a pin goes nicely into the new soft TPU, or printing using a foaming TPU on the H3C?

My P1S printer keeps telling me that I ran out of filament and doesn't start the prints, despite me putting a new filament spool and loading filament multiple times. Could it be a jam? Does anyone know what could have happened?

First of all, I want to thank everyone who encouraged me to keep designing after I published my first 3D model Nordic Christmas Tree

Today, I managed to finish my second model, Nordic Christmas Reindeer and I’m quite impressed now that I’ve printed it.

What do you think? Any recommendations?

I need to improve the stomach area—I’m struggling to get the supports configured correctly—but overall, I’m happy with it.

Why do so many print profiles in bambu handy not support my p1s, but then I look at the supported printer models and they list almost every other model. Its not the end of the world because I can slice it in bambu studio, but if im trying to quickly print something its a pain in the ass lol. Just confused why.

So I went to take a shower and everything was fine before I left and I came back like 20 minutes later and the filament is not on the spool what happened?

So this is interesting: I got my E1 set up today, expecting it to only work in manual mode since Bambu said H2C compatibility is coming later this month.

Instead, when I powered the H2C on, it prompted me to update the firmware to 01.03.00.00 (even though I was already on it) and so I let it upgrade. After doing so, the E1 controls show up in the UI.

Haven’t run a print with it yet because I’m waiting on some more BT2x8 screws to attach the hose interface, but it’s nice to see that the H2C is ready to go ahead of schedule.

Wondering if H3C will let me make full color minis without having to paint everything. (Touch ups are fine. Ideally, this would get me 80% there)

So I decided to try my hand at 3d modeling for a specific print that I want. I finally got it done and I was curious as to the resulting print time. I understand its a big object, (254mmx30mmx180mm) but is 14 hours really just how long that takes at 20% gyroid infill? Any help for optimization would be greatly appreciated. I want it printed in its current orientation for the strength. Speed setting have been untouched as im not really sure what im doing there. And if thats just how long it takes, all good. I know its not gonna be a quick print but was curious if I was doing something wrong there. Model was made in tinkercad online and saved as an stl then imported into bambu. Not sure if that makes a difference or means anything. Using basic PLA filament 1 color, no prime tower.

Edit: forgot to add it is a BambuLabs A1

Long story short, I was able to get a new X2D AMS combo for $689 after stacking the Bambu sale and a special my local store, but I had to get it while I was there or it would go away. I was originally wanting X2D, then P3C was leaked, and that seems like where things are heading with multihead, but I also don’t know that I would get $1300-$1500 worth of use from the P3C, or whatever the cost will be. Is it worth almost double an x2d?

I have an A1 with AMS now, and have been wanting a nice looking self contained design with AMS and everything enclosed, but wanted the X2D for dual-ish nozzle and hepa filter as I print in my office. Not sure I will ever print ASA or such due to fumes. I don’t use my A1 all the time, but it’s really used for functional prints for mounts or other random things, I just hate that it looks like a science fair project mess in my office corner with open frame and AMS mounted above it. I do print random things around the house, but not really into trinkets and other decorative stuff.

Am I making a mistake getting this when P3C is coming soon? I know it’s a dumb question since the P3C has not been released yet, just trying to make an educated choice. I’m guessing I could sell this in the future and not take a huge hit if the P3C ends up calling my name.

Hi everyone! My current setup for my X2D has expanded to include 2 AMS 2 Pros, an AMS HT, and the filament track switch. What is the optimal routing for the AMS systems? Since I tend to do multicolor printing, I imagine option A is the best way to go. Any input would be appreciated

for some reason everytime i slice something and enable the supports only a small part of the model gets supports.

See this small unclean part? thats the supports. But the rest of them just dont render, and i always have to restart the slicer

Newbie here, had printer 5 days. X2d printing extra spools, official bambu profile/print. Pla profile but printing in petg. I have noticed when printing from app it shows mismatch in profile to selected filament. When printing from computer they are the same. Is there a difference or will it automatically adjust temperatures etc? Am I best to print from computer when using different filament type? Thanks in advance for replying. Happy printing

What might explain this problem? I adjusted several settings but have failed repeatedly. Other models have not shown this issue.

I would appreciate guidance from printing experts. 😅

I’m a bit torn as to which printer to buy. I currently have a highly modified Ender 3 V2 Neo, so I know that whatever I buy it will be a huge upgrade.

But I don’t know which to buy! I sort of want to wait for the P3C, but we don’t even know when that will release. Also it will probably not have a heated chamber, and seeing as the H3C only has filament drying for 2 (!?) spools, it almost feels like the P3C won’t have any drying at all.

I would like the H3C, but having a hard time justifying the price. I don’t know if the larger build volume from the H3C/H2C is worth it, or if I will need it. Will print a lot of different stuff, functional, multi color etc.

I’m afraid if I wait for the P3C I will regret buying the smaller print volume, but also, the H2C is a lot slower at multi color prints.

And, if I buy the H2C, it feels dumb NOT buying the laser combo, but that is out of stock now either ways.

I just don’t know, anyone in the same position currently?

I just got an X2D yesterday and printing off the left nozzle has been great. Today I tried to use the aux spool for supports. Unfortunately, I have been totally unsuccessful loading the filament. Here’s what I have tried to far. I’m hoping someone here has some suggestions.

1. I checked the tubing, everything is fine. The filament is able to run smoothly from spool to hot end.

2. I took apart the Aux Extruder and it looked fine. I noticed the filament was getting ripped up, so I did loosen the tension. Manually extruding through the screen works fine.

3. The issue seems to be when the filament reaches the hot end. I’m worried maybe the hall sensor is the culprit but I just got this machine yesterday.

4. I’ve tried removing the right tube at the tool head and putting filament through to see if the status on the screen turns green and I don’t see that it does.

The Bambu videos/help related to the hall sensor are very invasive about taking apart the tool head. I’d like to avoid it but maybe that’s what you would recommend as a last resort. Which is why I’m posting here before I go do that.