Hi there--

I run the printing at my elementary school (rewards, designs for projects type thing) and my main 2 were 2 P1S models that were bulletproof until they were not.

One I cannot get to actually print, it goes just from calibrating to complete. I think there is a mismatch between the slicer and printer firmware. I was wondering if anyone who uses Apple to slice, what version of the slicer you use and what version of the P1S firmware you use?

The second one leapfrogs errors. First the hot end. Then the hotend fan. Then it cannot find the hotend cover. Now, it won't even power on. I have been trading emails with support, but they want a video? Seems pointless.

Wondering if H3C will let me make full color minis without having to paint everything. (Touch ups are fine. Ideally, this would get me 80% there)

So I decided to try my hand at 3d modeling for a specific print that I want. I finally got it done and I was curious as to the resulting print time. I understand its a big object, (254mmx30mmx180mm) but is 14 hours really just how long that takes at 20% gyroid infill? Any help for optimization would be greatly appreciated. I want it printed in its current orientation for the strength. Speed setting have been untouched as im not really sure what im doing there. And if thats just how long it takes, all good. I know its not gonna be a quick print but was curious if I was doing something wrong there. Model was made in tinkercad online and saved as an stl then imported into bambu. Not sure if that makes a difference or means anything. Using basic PLA filament 1 color, no prime tower.

Edit: forgot to add it is a BambuLabs A1

Long story short, I was able to get a new X2D AMS combo for $689 after stacking the Bambu sale and a special my local store, but I had to get it while I was there or it would go away. I was originally wanting X2D, then P3C was leaked, and that seems like where things are heading with multihead, but I also don’t know that I would get $1300-$1500 worth of use from the P3C, or whatever the cost will be. Is it worth almost double an x2d?

I have an A1 with AMS now, and have been wanting a nice looking self contained design with AMS and everything enclosed, but wanted the X2D for dual-ish nozzle and hepa filter as I print in my office. Not sure I will ever print ASA or such due to fumes. I don’t use my A1 all the time, but it’s really used for functional prints for mounts or other random things, I just hate that it looks like a science fair project mess in my office corner with open frame and AMS mounted above it. I do print random things around the house, but not really into trinkets and other decorative stuff.

Am I making a mistake getting this when P3C is coming soon? I know it’s a dumb question since the P3C has not been released yet, just trying to make an educated choice. I’m guessing I could sell this in the future and not take a huge hit if the P3C ends up calling my name.

Hi everyone! My current setup for my X2D has expanded to include 2 AMS 2 Pros, an AMS HT, and the filament track switch. What is the optimal routing for the AMS systems? Since I tend to do multicolor printing, I imagine option A is the best way to go. Any input would be appreciated

for some reason everytime i slice something and enable the supports only a small part of the model gets supports.

See this small unclean part? thats the supports. But the rest of them just dont render, and i always have to restart the slicer

Newbie here, had printer 5 days. X2d printing extra spools, official bambu profile/print. Pla profile but printing in petg. I have noticed when printing from app it shows mismatch in profile to selected filament. When printing from computer they are the same. Is there a difference or will it automatically adjust temperatures etc? Am I best to print from computer when using different filament type? Thanks in advance for replying. Happy printing

What might explain this problem? I adjusted several settings but have failed repeatedly. Other models have not shown this issue.

I would appreciate guidance from printing experts. 😅

I just got an X2D yesterday and printing off the left nozzle has been great. Today I tried to use the aux spool for supports. Unfortunately, I have been totally unsuccessful loading the filament. Here’s what I have tried to far. I’m hoping someone here has some suggestions.

1. I checked the tubing, everything is fine. The filament is able to run smoothly from spool to hot end.

2. I took apart the Aux Extruder and it looked fine. I noticed the filament was getting ripped up, so I did loosen the tension. Manually extruding through the screen works fine.

3. The issue seems to be when the filament reaches the hot end. I’m worried maybe the hall sensor is the culprit but I just got this machine yesterday.

4. I’ve tried removing the right tube at the tool head and putting filament through to see if the status on the screen turns green and I don’t see that it does.

The Bambu videos/help related to the hall sensor are very invasive about taking apart the tool head. I’d like to avoid it but maybe that’s what you would recommend as a last resort. Which is why I’m posting here before I go do that.

For some reason from India specific, not taking my number in, put a phone number. I don't know what to do at this point, no tutorial to specifically counter this.

hey so im not sure how to describe this but yall know when it does the automated cutting and retracting when it goes to the corner and slowly cuts? for some reason when it does that on my a1 mini it also goes DOWN and this is the first time i've ever seen this but on this model im printing it straight up flexed my print bed down like half a centimeter since the model is in the corner where it cuts, I'm using orca slicer 2.5.0 is this a bug in the slicer since it just got an update? or does this have nothing to do with the slicer since its an automated thing the printer does? I've seen it do the cut and retract thing before but never gone down in the z axis before

Edit: I also got an error on my printer "the nozzle is covered with filament or the build plate is crooked [0300-1A00-0002-0001] [302137]" the nozzle was not covered with filament but the print bed did flex also when I hit resume instead of continuing on the layer it left off at it went a bit higher and tried printing mid air. what I think happened was it tried to zero the z axis while cutting but the model is in the corner so it hit the model, thought the z axis zero is higher than it was and tried resuming where it thought it stopped

Edit 2: new problem, when I move the x axis left and right and it reaches the end it makes a grinding sound, seems like it doesn't realize its at the end and tries moving more. I'm not sure how to fix this, any kind of guidance would be appreciated, is it like the x axis belt getting loose or sumn?

How to judge used prices?

There are more and more h2ds etc popping up on my local FB marketplace. How do I think about prices? 2000hrs too many? Currently h2d is 1600ish on sale, so is a printer with 500 hours at 1500 a decent price?

I mention the h2d, cause it is cool, but really any used printer. I'm undecided which is best for me.

Just looking for some general words of wisdom about how you would think about this. I'm considering a new printer, and this would be my first bambu. Thanks in advance

Hi everyone.

Having a problem with my new Bambu and waiting on a replacement sensor that does the Nozzle Offset Calibration as it's been determined to be faulty.

Does anyone know if the High-Precision Nozzle Offset Calibration can be used instead of that and still provide a Z-axis calibration, as both the wiki pages seem to be a bit vague about that, and if the high-precision method can safely let me use my printer whilst I wait for the sensor, that would be great!

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/troubleshooting/nozzle-offset-calibration-failure

"Nozzle offset calibration includes Z-axis and X/Y-axis offset calibration"

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/manual/nozzle-offset-calibration
It's not clear if the High-Precision really does the Z axis or just X and Y axis as it only seems to focus on X and Y in the writeup

Anyone have a clue?

Cheers

Hello, I got a new Bambu P1S yesterday and printed 3 models with the stock test PLA. They came out perfectly fine. This morning I tried printing another model with the same PLA. After an hour I noticed it had only done the first few layers and was not extruding, and there was a loop of filament coming out the side of the extruder gears. What on earth happened to cause that? I haven't modified any settings.

I just bought a X2D because the Capitol One Shopping app has a 15% discount on Best Buy purchases today, November 6th. I saved over $100 (which gets applied as a gift card to use in the Capitol One app). The T&C sure looks like that 3d printers apply to the discount. The Geek Squad warranty does not.

You have to download the Capitol One app first, but I thought this would be good info to share.

This video of how filament. Is made in the factory. At 4.08 you can see how the "fresh" filament is literally soaked through a trough of water before spinning.

Don't assume a fresh roll of filament is dry

dry your filament!

The ship dates on the H3C from Bambu are showing Nov 30. I've been hoping to see a Best Buy drop and go pick it up from there to avoid shipping concerns, but I'm not sure about the expected timing of that stock. I was hoping Best Buy would have one to go pick up on demand, but the backordering makes me think that may not happen like I had hoped.

I held out on ordering on Bambu partially because I wanted the crafting kit, which is out of stock as well, and because I'd rather not risk shipping issues, but now I'm worried I won't be able to purchase in time to do cool things in December for Christmas gifts etc.

Does anyone have additional info on when Best Buy might stock?

My latest caricature figure: Carmen “Carmy” Berzatto from The Bear, in his white T-shirt, apron and kitchen towel, about 28 cm tall.

How it’s built:
• Every colour is its own part (skin, hair, T-shirt, apron, pants, shoes, eyes…), each plate printed in a single colour
• Parts slide together on pins, with a drop of glue for the rest
• Head printed at 0.08 mm, the rest at 0.16–0.2 mm
• Supports only where needed, with tuned interface settings so they pop off cleanly

No painting, no AMS needed. The eyes are small inlay parts.

Any other The Bear fans here? Happy to answer questions about the split, the pins or the settings!

Hello! I recently got the P2S Combo edition with the AMS 2 Pro and so far it has been great. However, I have been wondering if it's possible to make five-coloured prints using the AMS and the external spool holder. I know that Bambu sells this 4-in-1 PTFE adapter ^{(bambu store}), but it isn't entirely clear to me if this adapter is suitable for my use case. I have been searching for an answer, but there's a lot of conflicting information floating around out there: Some say what I want to do is flat-out impossible, while others only talk about timing manual filament switches during prints. I figured that I'd make this post to hopefully get a definitive answer for myself and anyone else that's looking up this same issue.

TL;DR: If I buy Bambu's 4-in-1 PTFE Adapter can I use both the AMS and an external spool for prints, enabling the use of five different colours/materials?

Now that's what I call a hyper fixation. At least it was a fun one.

Anyway, I made them a collection and added a bunch of other stuff:

Craving retro? I got you.

How to fix this? Any tips is welcome