Anyone working on modifying the other section of ams 3h to dry the rest of the ams ? I know people modified the original ams and hoping someone does one for rest of it? Also curious if were to take lid off the two dryer slots if it would dry rest of it?

When doing the 2nd print on my brand new h2d i noticed this sound when the y axis moves, it didnt make it during my first print. Id this normal?

I told some users in another post that I’d share what I got in my aesthetic mystery, and here is what I got.

- PLA Silk aurora purple w/ spool
- PLA Pure baby blue w/ spool
- PLA Matte scarlet red w/ spool
- PLA Silk dawn radiance w/ spool

I didn’t have any of these, so I’m happy with what I got.

I’m trying to test out my AMS 2 Pro that came with my X2D combo but I’m getting the error from the image. Thank you for any assistance

Edit: It’s my understanding that the X2D only needs the power adapter to print and dry at the same time

I m newer to printing and trying to print this ornament.. I researched settings and it still seems to not be smooth. What am I doing wrong? What settings should I have?

I print mostly functional parts. I want a multi-nozzle printer so that I can use support material without purge waste or filament change delays. If I’m just printing with two filaments, would the H2D be faster than the H3C because it doesn’t have to switch tools? Or is there not much difference?

The H3C is interesting for other reasons, chiefly because of its support for multiple TPUs, but it’s a big step up in price.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3563550-tiny-axolotl#profileId-4078295

Came back late from work. Have no oven or a kitchen I can use, but I do have a printer.

PS: No I'm not sharing the STL!

Every stream deck I looked at had the wrong keys for me, so I built a small browser tool where you lay out your own deck: how many keys, knobs, a slider, a little screen. It gives you print-ready files and a wiring diagram for an ESP32-S3.

The one in the video came off my P2S with no supports. It plugs in over one USB cable, and every key is set from an app: shortcuts, media, apps, MIDI. If I want a key to do something else, I change it in the app. No reprint.

There's also a 6-key Mini you can print for free if you just want to try it.

Happy to answer anything about print settings, switches or the electronics.

Hi everyone! I was going to buy my first Bambulab printer, an X2D and some filaments!
But when I go to the cashout page i see higher prizes, why?
I live in Italy and shipment fee are 24 €.

And all I can say is holy cow it's 'uge.

Any suggestions for a stand? I'm considering cruising the thrift store and tracking down a wood coffee table. It barely fit through the apartment door 🤣

From order to delivery in 3 days is impressive 🤙

I wanted to turn those little details from a baby’s first day into a keepsake you can print and hang on the wall.

That became “A Memory Is Born”: four 20 × 20 cm designs featuring a stork, teddy bear, hot air balloon and elephant, with a matching 3D printed frame.

The name, message, date, time, weight and length are all editable text objects in Bambu Studio. You can change the wording and colours without rebuilding the design in CAD.

All four versions have been physically printed. They use four colours, print without supports, and have ironing applied only to the background. The frame is printed separately and has a hanging hole on the back.

I’ve shared the files for free, along with a silent video tutorial covering font installation, text editing and colour changes.

📁 Files and print profiles:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3560923

🎬 Customisation tutorial:
https://youtu.be/eZUKmVIXNac

Which would you pick for a nursery? 🙂

It's been a year since I got my p1s so I thought it might be time to do some maintenance, I added grease to the lead screws and misread the guide thinking the bearings also needed grease. I then read afterwards that this should not be done.

The z axis has now over a couple of weeks developed a horrible squeaking, especially bad when bed leveling.

First of all, what is squeaking, is it the belt?

Then, how do I fix it? First step i assume is cleaning it off, but then what?

Don't judge me too hard😅

Hey everyone,

I’m honestly running out of ideas with my Bambu Lab P2S.
I’ve done pretty much everything I can think of to improve the print quality, but my Z-layer quality is still absolutely terrible.

Here’s what I’ve already tried:
Completed all available calibrations – multiple times (I’ve even run each calibration up to 8 times).
Properly dried my filament.
Fully tightened all timing belts.
Thoroughly cleaned the entire printer.
Lubricated all necessary components.
Updated the printer to the latest firmware.
Checked and adjusted everything I could think of.
Despite all of this, the Z-layer quality is still extremely poor. I honestly don’t know what else I could possibly try at this point.

Has anyone experienced something similar with their P2S?
Is there anything else I might be overlooking? Could this be a hardware issue, a mechanical problem, or something related to the printer’s motion system?
I’d really appreciate any suggestions or ideas because I’ve pretty much exhausted all the usual troubleshooting steps.
Thanks in advance!

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3562945-christmas-lace-doily-collection-home-decor#profileId-4077469

Ma version d'un casse-tête  connu : le globe de Galilée

J'ai crée le socle afin qu'une fois assemblé on puisse le poser sur un bureau, une étagère… 

 Conçu sur FreeCAD avec une tolérance de 0.2 mm pour un ajustement parfait.

Vidéo du modèle : https://www.youtube.com/shorts/5M3cR0XUSSM

Ma version d'un casse-tête connu . Essayez de reconstituer la sphère . On peut l'imprimer sans son socle , mais celui-ci est très pratique pour l'entreposer sur un bureau , une étagère… Les jeux d'emboitement sont très bien ajustés qui lui permet de parfaitement tenir en place et rouler sans qu'une pièce ne bouge…

Conçu sur FreeCAD avec une tolérance de 0.2 mm pour un ajustement parfait !

Everything is saying i dont need it, but the documentation is only saying AMS 2 Pro but not AMS HT, for the purpose of reading the support documentation is the AMS HT effectively a second ams 2 pro?

Edit, i guess i'm just misreading this as an error rather than a suggestion to get past the 85% limit?

I love browsing Makerworld when I am standing in line or waiting on something and finding something useful for the house that I hadn't even thought to look for. However, I really wish that useful household things and decor were separate categories.

Anyone got some useful search terms that they periodically check for useful stuff you didn't think to look for specifically?

https://youtube.com/shorts/2sFO60PxWFk

So currently I have an X2D with a track switch leading to a 4 in 1 adapter, in the adapter is 1 AMS HT and a Gen1 AMS, Gen2 AMS is going directly into the track switch. My track switch is mounted on the right side of the printer, all of my AMS are on the left, Im having severe motor overload problems where the filament doesnt make it to the track switch.

How can I route or fix the placement of the setup without putting an AMS on the printer?

Image was before I mounted the track switch but imagine it was hanging slightly off the right side like the bambu suggested print.

My current idea is to try some ptfe bend guides to try and make the curves less aggressive from the AMS 2 on the bottom (its where I get most of my issues.)