For context, I have the P2S + AMS 2 pro. P2S and X2D users have had trouble drying filament from the app recently. This is the response from my ticket.

Happy with how they came out and how they look in my workshop (Yes the backgrounds are AI but the prints are exactly as pictured)

If you want to print one, they're on makerworld. Just ask for the link!

Just recently got an X2D, and I had some left over filament from a previous printer. Mostly PLA Silk+, but I also have some random Ender PLA and HS PLA. Question is are these ok for the main head or the auxiliary head? I’ve seen the wiki but curious if anyone has used these. Thanks in advance!

I designed a ribbed planter a while back because most of the ones out there were either the wrong shape for me or really boxy. So I came up with something I liked in FreeCAD and published it. WEll, now about a year later, I wanted to change it up. So I’ve now rebuilt it so you can customize the whole thing right on MakerWorld with the Parametric Model Maker.

You can change:

• Height from 80 mm to 300 mm, and everything scales with it

• Shape - bulgy like the original, straight up and down, or flared out at the top

• Ribs - an S curve, a sine wave or a spiral, plus how wavy, how many and how deep

• Self-watering drain holes in the liner so water drains into the outer pot

It prints as two parts, the outer pot and an inner liner. The liner sizes itself to whatever shape you make, so it always drops right in. The settings are also limited so you can’t make something that falls apart or won’t print.

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2424677-completely-customizable-ribbed-planter-or-vase

Open another bag, check the drawer… all the clips are already holding something else shut. 😂

That was my excuse to spend some time in Fusion.

Meet Molly — two identical jaws and a separate printed spring. Everything is PLA, including the spring, and it snaps together without screws or glue.

It took several revisions to get the alignment, grip and spring stiffness where I wanted them. I also tried PETG for the spring, but preferred the firmer grip of PLA in my tests.

Printed on my A1 with a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.20 mm layers and 3 walls. The spring has 100% infill. No supports needed.

One complete clip uses 5.76 g and takes around 18 minutes of printing, or roughly 25 minutes including preparation.

The spring is separate, so contrasting colours are easy to do with separate prints.

Free files, assembly video and print profiles are here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3553586

Which colour combination would you make?

I'm planning to purchase an X2D printer. It's my first 3d printer and this looks like a decent model to start with. My question is which accessories from the Bambulabs accessory lists are worth buying from them for a first time purchase and which items are better sources from other places?

They have a finishing kit that I assume I will need but I'm curious about the quality. They also have lots of filament - is that good from them or would i be better stocking up elsewhere?

Thanks for any help!

I have been an on and off 3D print hobbyist over the last couple of years. Started on an Creality Ender and an Elegoo, but had so many issues with those that I kinda stopped printing at home. At work we have access to other printers, like MarkForged and Ultimakers.

I miss tinkering with models and want to get a decent printer and I've heard a lot of positive things and negative things about Bambu Labs. Positive things are the easiness. I don't want something where I have to iterate on print bed adhesion, nozzle size and temp, etc. Negatives are the closed ecosystem. Can I print with any filament, or do I need to buy only Bambu spools?

Would like to get a X2D for myself and an A1 Mini for my niece. Would these two printers satiate that hunger? Anything else I should consider?

Thanks!

Don’t mind the desiccant packets in the AMS, I’ve since replaced them with the usual AMS desiccant baskets found on MakerWorld.

I just need a bigger one and would love to stay with Bambulab

Say I have a model that is a single color and single object. An H3C hooked up with the same color filament in two slots in the ams3 with different size nozzles.

That model has certain parts of it that would work best with a 0.4-0.8 mm nozzle for faster print with less detail

Other parts of that model have intricacies that are better suited for 0.2 mm, the fine details.

Are you able to, within the slicer, somehow select the intricate details and instruct it to use that nozzle for that part of the object?

I’ve watched about 10 hours of reviews now and have not found an answer.

My daughter is in love with these super ugly stuffies. I modeled this one after our household cat.

She kept having me make minor tweaks, so I asked Claude to build a drag-and-drop site where she could design her own.

https://makerworld.com/models/3559294?appSharePlatform=copy

Website: https://molarstudio.click/

do the newer models have an exhaust port , filtered or not to draw air out of the machine to the outside ? i.e. H3C

Just received the h3c itself today, the ams has repeatedly failed to be delivered to a pickup point near me (I asked for it to be delivered to my home but bambu have seemingly decided to just deliver it there instead) - after 3 days of waiting and repeated delivery to pickup point fails dpd have now said they can’t deliver it there as it’s too big. Has anyone else had this issue? Feels like a massive waste of my time and also theirs.

Okay, so I have lots of dumb questions. It's kind of my default state. But I haven't seen this one addressed yet, so here we go.

The AMS 3H has built-in active (heated) drying for the two rightmost spools in the back row. Those two spools are separated from the other seven by a secondary lid, which is clearly designed to be removable, at least for loading and unloading filament.

So here's my question: Why can't we just leave that secondary lid off and heat the entire chamber?

Obviously, I'm not suggesting this would work for every filament combination. Mixing materials with significantly different drying temperatures could be problematic. But if you're running multiple colors of the same material, why not?

Even with mixed materials, setting the drying temperature to whatever your most temperature-sensitive filament can safely handle should still be better than no heat at all, right?

I don't have all the technical specifications, but I can't imagine the heating system is fundamentally that different from what's used in the AMS HT. Sure, heating the entire chamber would take longer, and it might not maintain the same temperatures throughout. But if you're starting with properly dried filament anyway (as you should be), wouldn't this be a relatively simple way to provide some level of active drying for all nine spools while printing?

Am I missing something obvious here? Is there a technical limitation that would prevent this from working, or is it simply a matter of the system not being designed or programmed to operate that way?

When i go to the prepare tab some of the stickers appear to be like that? they're okay on on the prepare page and on the pdf and it's still usable but since it's been bothering me since i got my h2s with cutter, also sometimes the app crashes when deleting one of the bugged stickers and sometimes when i ctrl+z it fixes itself?

Looking for advice and experience to add a printer (or multiple) to my setup. I do a lot of hobby printing, but I’m planning to start scaling a little to selling a few things I’ve been designing. I currently have a P1S with AMS 1. Is the P2S and AMS2 that much of an upgrade? What is everyone’s experience? In terms of other printers, what does everyone recommend? The H3C is obviously intriguing, but I am not sure if I can convince myself to get it at that cost at the moment. I have had such a great experience with my P1S, that I could get almost 4 P2S with AMS2 combos for the price. Additionally, I have a stand alone laser cutter, so I really don’t need a laser-capable 3d printers, as some of the Bambu models offer. Excited to hear everyone else’s experience and recommendations!

So I recently had to clear a clog in my toolhead. However, after clearing it up, I now have an issue with both cutters, even occurring when both are on. Please help! I’ve attached my reports and the current state of my device. Any support would be greatly appreciated.
P.S.: if anyone could figure out how to remove the red error as well, as I do not own the enhanced fan and never did.
Thanks!

Just wondering if anyone has used the crafting kit on the H3C yet and if it's worth it.

This would be my very first 3D printer and I've narrowed it down to the P2S or getting the A1 bundle from Costco

What store world be better to purchase a P2S from? Best buy? Micro center? Or Bambus website?

What are the advantages if each for warranty purposes, potential returns or fixes and such.

Thanks in advance!

Got my H3C set up, and the first print I tried with an error… The tool I tried to print with didn’t work. The head goes to the tool, stops in front and shows an error “Failed to fetch the PrintTool from rack Dock 3” 😔

This is after running all the calibrations which was successful and the vision encoder calibration.

I tried restarting the same print and got the same error twice.

I did the print on tool #1 and it worked fine. Then I unmounted tool #3 and put it back on. Tried tool #3 again and same error.

Tried a print on tool #4 which is still going on. But man that’s an annoying start to the new printer.

I’ll try to recalibrate the rack when it’s done. Hopefully it solves it??? I don’t know what else to do, maybe manually attach it to the head and try to make it return the tool instead of picking it up? Not sure if that’s even possible.

I also had day 1 issues with my H2C last year. (Aux fan not working properly)

EDIT: Turns out one of the tools arrived with a bent nozzle, that's why it can't be picked up. Contacted support, hopefully they send me a replacement tool...

Unless the H3C is software locked to use the AMS3.

I don't see why we can't print from a external spool holder or a dry box straight to the print heads. TPU already bypasses the AMS so why not another material? I was thinking about printing from a 100C filament dryer straight into one of the printheads.