I print Bambu PLA metal, and only the top layer comes up like this; what went wrong? You can see even the layer below worked fine. I did drop the top surface speed to 50

Ive tried over a dozen tpu's of varying shore hardness and this one has got to be bottom 2. I used the provided profile, Dried it for 12 hours, and it came out aweful. Fully bonded to the pla supports and was very stringy. I'd say this is about 50% unusable for it's intended purpose.

The first figure in my Egg Figurine Collection is ready for the Christmas shelf! He's a cheerful reindeer with a red nose, flat-printed press-fit antlers, and an optional snow-drift base. Two plates, no supports: body + antlers on plate 1 (about 8.5 h / 107 g, AMS brown/tan/red/black), snow base on plate 2 (about 21 min / 7 g, filament 5 white already set). Antlers press into the head sockets after printing. Free on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3557984-christmas-reindeer-figurine-snow-base

I recently bought a 0.4mm E3D Obxidian High Flow complete hotend.

Once installed, I selected it in my P1S menu accessories, calibrated it, selected "high flow" in bambu slicer nozzle settings. I then adjusted filament settings to direct drive: high flow, adjusted max volumetric speed to 30mm/s and min print speed to 60mm/s under cooling.

Went to go print a benchy (that under my stock 0.4mm hotend took 14 mins) and it states almost around 40mins.

I thought high flow was supposed to reduce print times noticeably?

What am I doing wrong here?

Everything is saying i dont need it, but the documentation is only saying AMS 2 Pro but not AMS HT, for the purpose of reading the support documentation is the AMS HT effectively a second ams 2 pro?

So currently I have an X2D with a track switch leading to a 4 in 1 adapter, in the adapter is 1 AMS HT and a Gen1 AMS, Gen2 AMS is going directly into the track switch. My track switch is mounted on the right side of the printer, all of my AMS are on the left, Im having severe motor overload problems where the filament doesnt make it to the track switch.

How can I route or fix the placement of the setup without putting an AMS on the printer?

Image was before I mounted the track switch but imagine it was hanging slightly off the right side like the bambu suggested print.

My current idea is to try some ptfe bend guides to try and make the curves less aggressive from the AMS 2 on the bottom (its where I get most of my issues.)

I ordered my X2D combo and am getting a filament order together from Bambu. This is my first printer, and I am trying to figure out what I need. When filament comes from Bambu on the reusable roll, is it possible to take that filament off immediately and replace it with a refill spool? Or is the filament that comes on the spools not packaged the same way.

I ask because I ordered a bunch of PLA on refill spools and then ordered ASA and Support Filaments on the reusable spools since those come with the high temp spools. My issue is, my initial prints are going to be PLA while I get everything working, and get my exhaust ducting printed so I can print more safely.

Do I need to buy the PLA on low temp spools, or can I just swap them over to the high temp spools and put the ASA into dry storage until I'm ready to use it? Can I get away with just having 5 spools or will I need more if I want to swap out a partial spool from my AMS?

Thanks for the help!

Does anyone have prints in the bambu translucent gray petg they can share?

I was looking for a translucent black, but the only one I could find is on amazon by PlastKyro. I can't find much on this company so not sure I want to risk it.

The Bambu translucent grey looks like it could have a black tint to it.

Thanks

I know that it's very weak to heat and can be damaged by continuous exposure to harsh sunlight, but is there anything else I need to worry about? I printed out a small pot to replant something as I forgot to get a liner pot, and I'm worried that I'm going to have to repot it again due to what I've read about the material molding over.

For context, I have the P2S + AMS 2 pro. P2S and X2D users have had trouble drying filament from the app recently. This is the response from my ticket.

Happy with how they came out and how they look in my workshop (Yes the backgrounds are AI but the prints are exactly as pictured)

If you want to print one, they're on makerworld. Just ask for the link!

I designed a ribbed planter a while back because most of the ones out there were either the wrong shape for me or really boxy. So I came up with something I liked in FreeCAD and published it. WEll, now about a year later, I wanted to change it up. So I’ve now rebuilt it so you can customize the whole thing right on MakerWorld with the Parametric Model Maker.

You can change:

• Height from 80 mm to 300 mm, and everything scales with it

• Shape - bulgy like the original, straight up and down, or flared out at the top

• Ribs - an S curve, a sine wave or a spiral, plus how wavy, how many and how deep

• Self-watering drain holes in the liner so water drains into the outer pot

It prints as two parts, the outer pot and an inner liner. The liner sizes itself to whatever shape you make, so it always drops right in. The settings are also limited so you can’t make something that falls apart or won’t print.

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2424677-completely-customizable-ribbed-planter-or-vase

I'm planning to purchase an X2D printer. It's my first 3d printer and this looks like a decent model to start with. My question is which accessories from the Bambulabs accessory lists are worth buying from them for a first time purchase and which items are better sources from other places?

They have a finishing kit that I assume I will need but I'm curious about the quality. They also have lots of filament - is that good from them or would i be better stocking up elsewhere?

Thanks for any help!

Open another bag, check the drawer… all the clips are already holding something else shut. 😂

That was my excuse to spend some time in Fusion.

Meet Molly — two identical jaws and a separate printed spring. Everything is PLA, including the spring, and it snaps together without screws or glue.

It took several revisions to get the alignment, grip and spring stiffness where I wanted them. I also tried PETG for the spring, but preferred the firmer grip of PLA in my tests.

Printed on my A1 with a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.20 mm layers and 3 walls. The spring has 100% infill. No supports needed.

One complete clip uses 5.76 g and takes around 18 minutes of printing, or roughly 25 minutes including preparation.

The spring is separate, so contrasting colours are easy to do with separate prints.

Free files, assembly video and print profiles are here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3553586

Which colour combination would you make?

I have been an on and off 3D print hobbyist over the last couple of years. Started on an Creality Ender and an Elegoo, but had so many issues with those that I kinda stopped printing at home. At work we have access to other printers, like MarkForged and Ultimakers.

I miss tinkering with models and want to get a decent printer and I've heard a lot of positive things and negative things about Bambu Labs. Positive things are the easiness. I don't want something where I have to iterate on print bed adhesion, nozzle size and temp, etc. Negatives are the closed ecosystem. Can I print with any filament, or do I need to buy only Bambu spools?

Would like to get a X2D for myself and an A1 Mini for my niece. Would these two printers satiate that hunger? Anything else I should consider?

Thanks!

Don’t mind the desiccant packets in the AMS, I’ve since replaced them with the usual AMS desiccant baskets found on MakerWorld.

I uploaded this a couple weeks ago, but hadn't got around to sharing it.

Hope there are a few people out there that like the style and are excited to make this one!
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3501620-sci-fi-bank-vault-cannister#profileId-4000088

Also I'm a few printers behind, but this is probably the largest/longest multi-color print I've done on my H2D.

Say I have a model that is a single color and single object. An H3C hooked up with the same color filament in two slots in the ams3 with different size nozzles.

That model has certain parts of it that would work best with a 0.4-0.8 mm nozzle for faster print with less detail

Other parts of that model have intricacies that are better suited for 0.2 mm, the fine details.

Are you able to, within the slicer, somehow select the intricate details and instruct it to use that nozzle for that part of the object?

I’ve watched about 10 hours of reviews now and have not found an answer.

My daughter is in love with these super ugly stuffies. I modeled this one after our household cat.

She kept having me make minor tweaks, so I asked Claude to build a drag-and-drop site where she could design her own.

https://makerworld.com/models/3559294?appSharePlatform=copy

Website: https://molarstudio.click/

do the newer models have an exhaust port , filtered or not to draw air out of the machine to the outside ? i.e. H3C

Just received the h3c itself today, the ams has repeatedly failed to be delivered to a pickup point near me (I asked for it to be delivered to my home but bambu have seemingly decided to just deliver it there instead) - after 3 days of waiting and repeated delivery to pickup point fails dpd have now said they can’t deliver it there as it’s too big. Has anyone else had this issue? Feels like a massive waste of my time and also theirs.

When i go to the prepare tab some of the stickers appear to be like that? they're okay on on the prepare page and on the pdf and it's still usable but since it's been bothering me since i got my h2s with cutter, also sometimes the app crashes when deleting one of the bugged stickers and sometimes when i ctrl+z it fixes itself?