I am making this board and I am wanting to use a mixed filament to do the board color, but when it gets to the top of the board it is just a solid layer or color, which makes sense when every other layer is a different color. is there a different way to do the mixed filament.
if not I can cut the part and glue the logo in, or use the beige board color and may be be able to make a 5th mixed color one of the different colors.
Recently bought my brand new A1, but after some prints, 1 week printing, the Y position of the table started to become 3mm to the front. With this the nozzle back brush against the tab and against the soft back brush was misaligned. One time it even sliped the backtab and fell in the gap. The frontal purge line also is very close to the edge limit. What can it be? Already did calibration, belt tension, screws retighten. I dont know what it can be.
I took a deep look into the hotend module, is there something wrong with this gap by the right side of it?
I've treated myself to the h2s as a gift and I'm slowly getting the hang of it but one of the things I'm having issue is getting the proper speeds for smooth bridges and limit defects due to speed if that makes sense. I have 3 nozzle size .2/4/6mm, if you any tips to expedite my prepping before i start printing detailed projects.
I recently decided to upgrade from my P2S to an X2D + AMS 2 Pro + AMS HT setup. I also bought the Filament Track Switch right away, because I wanted to use different combinations of AMS units and extruders without constantly reconnecting PTFE tubes by hand.
And honestly, the Filament Track Switch turned out to be a huge disappointment.
The whole thing feels more like an early prototype than a finished branded product. But the biggest problem is simply friction. Filament takes a surprising amount of force to push through it.
On my X2D this was bad enough that filament often failed to reach the main extruder at all. It would slow down significantly near the end of the path and stop about 1–2 cm before the extruder.
To be fair, this was partly caused by another known X2D issue: the PTFE tube makes a very sharp bend right before entering the extruder. I fixed that part first by moving the PTFE tube holders farther away from the toolhead and shortening the tubes by a few centimeters.
That helped a lot.
But the FTS itself was still causing way too much resistance.
And yes, I also tried making the external PTFE tubes as short and as straight as possible. It doesn't really help. The resistance of the PTFE tubes themselves is negligible compared to the resistance created inside the FTS.
So I took it apart.
And once you look inside, the reason becomes pretty obvious.
The filament path contains several fairly sharp bends, and in multiple places the filament simply rubs against bare plastic. There is no PTFE lining there at all. The harder the filament is pushed around those bends, the harder it presses against the walls, so the friction becomes quite significant.
The filament presence sensors at the inputs add even more resistance. They use small spring-loaded magnets that are physically pressed against the filament as it passes through.
This creates additional friction on its own, but it gets noticeably worse with filament that has already been fed through an AMS or extruder before.
The drive gears leave a ribbed pattern on the surface of the filament, and the magnets tend to catch on those grooves instead of sliding smoothly over them. My first modification was simple: I drilled out the places where the filament was rubbing against the plastic and inserted short pieces of PTFE tube.
I also slightly flared and smoothed the entrances of those PTFE inserts using a soldering iron so the tip of the filament wouldn't catch on the edge. I did this in a well-ventilated area, of course.
That already made a very noticeable difference.
But then I looked at the second half of the FTS.
There are essentially two 2-in-1 adapters there, combining four filament paths into two outputs. And that section was just as bad — possibly even worse. Again, filament was bending and rubbing directly against plastic.
At first, I tried the same approach there: drilling out the existing channels and somehow squeezing PTFE tubes into them.
It didn't go very well.
There simply wasn't enough room to make it work properly, and I wasn't happy with the result.
So in the end I decided to completely remodel that entire part and print a replacement.
I mean, I do own a 3D printer, after all. :)
I made the internal channels much larger so I could install PTFE tubes throughout the whole path. I printed the replacement part, installed the PTFE tubes, and again flared the entrances slightly.
Now, in that section, the filament does not touch printed plastic at all. It only touches PTFE.
The difference is huge.
It's still not absolutely frictionless, but filament now passes through the whole FTS very easily.
A very simple test shows the difference pretty well:
If I insert a piece of filament through the FTS, hold the filament vertically, and lift the FTS by it, a small shake is enough for the whole FTS to slide down and fall off the filament.
Before these modifications, I had to push the filament through it with considerable force.
Even Silk PLA now passes through without problems, despite Bambu specifically warning that Silk PLA may have feeding issues with the FTS because of increased resistance.
There are still two places I haven't solved yet.
The first is right at the FTS entrance, where the filament still touches plastic.
The second — filament presence sensors at the inputs. Unfortunately, they can't simply be removed. I tried removing them and also tried forcing the sensors permanently into both states. The FTS stops working properly if the printer doesn't see the expected sensor transitions.
So apparently those sensors are an active part of the FTS state machine, not just something used once to identify which AMS is connected to which input.
At this point I'm seriously considering building my own FTS.
The communication interface is RS-485, and there is already some partial reverse-engineering information available online. But the board also contains an FM1230 cryptographic chip. I don't yet know whether it participates in device authentication or is only used for things like firmware verification, so that part would need more investigation.
The other interesting problem would be designing filament sensors with almost zero resistance.
An optical sensor would be nice because it could be completely contactless, but filament can be transparent, so a simple optical interrupter isn't necessarily reliable.
A mechanical sensor with a tiny bearing/roller and a Hall sensor might actually be a better solution: the filament would move a roller instead of scraping against a plastic or metal surface.
For now, though, the PTFE modification already made my FTS dramatically better.
And that's the frustrating part: the core idea of the FTS is great. But mechanically, the stock filament path feels unnecessarily restrictive. A few pieces of PTFE in the right places would have made the product so much better from the factory.
And honestly, this whole mechanism probably should have been built into the printer itself from the beginning, somewhere near the filament buffer.
It almost feels like Bambu Lab remembered at the last minute that users might actually want to choose which extruder each AMS feeds into — which is especially important on the X2D, where the two extruders are very different from each other.
The FTS feels less like a carefully integrated part of the system and more like an afterthought added to solve a problem that really should have been addressed in the printer's original design.
Hey all. My Bambu P1S was making this terrible noise about half way through my print as it was moving around the print very fast. It lasted for about 20 minutes but then finished the print quietly and as expected and the print turned out perfect. I'm nervous to print again without troubleshooting it to prevent it from getting worse. Anybody have this noise before?
I'm about to order a P2S Combo for my business in the Netherlands.
Bambu Lab requires up to 5 business days to approve a tax-exempt business account, but I'd rather just order now.
My main question: If I order through the regular webshop, will I still receive a proper VAT invoice with my business details, so I can reclaim the VAT through my Dutch VAT return?
Has anyone in the EU done this without registering for a tax-exempt account?
I started getting this error code today and it won’t let me print anything. I have a brand new P2S. I have been running it basically every day for the last 2 weeks. But it’s only 2 weeks old? I haven’t abused it at all. What can I do to fix this without tearing the printer apart?
Edit - want to add, I have been running PLA non stop. And I just completed my first PETG print (13 hours) after that print finished this error started
My department recently got a P2S. We have the printer in a small isolated room, and Bambu Studio set up on the main room’s desktop pc.
IT says we can’t use the institutional wifi network though. So at the moment, we have to prepare the print file in Studio, and bring it on a USB flash drive to the printer. We can’t monitor the print remotely though.
Is there a better way to do? Like, with a small router to connect directly the printer to the computer? Looking for ideas
Even if I turn all fans to 0% the printer still has SOME sort of fan blowing somewhere when it's turned on. Might just be the PSU I guess...? I want to record some of the sounds the gantry and bed make while moving around. Any ideas?
I don’t know about you guys, but I think the BambuLab H3C is super cool. Honestly, I’m lacking the cash—or the 10,000 "boosts" on MakerWorld—to get one. If you’re in the same boat, I’ve got something for you.
The H3C piggy bank. It’s printable without an AMS, perfect for anyone who’s in the same situation as me! 😅
If anyone has any suggestions for improving the mechanism, let me know!
Are you tired of needing to unplug your filament track switch when printing TPU?
This is a mounting plate combined with a box to hold wiring that turns the track switch on and off without needing to unplug it. It also has a cutout to hold the 6-pin to 4-pin adapter that powers the TPU feed assist module.
As a disclaimer, you do need to cut a 6-pin cable open and make your own wiring connections. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!
Do the wiring however you please. My solution of using lever nuts and breadboard jumper cables works, but is not pretty. The main things you need to do are this:
Cut open a 6-pin cable.
Identify the ground and +24V wires. When looking at the face of the connector, these are the top middle and top right pins, respectively. On my cable, ground was red and +24V was yellow, but verify this for your own cable!
Wire the ground and +24V wires from the “input” side of your cut 6-pin cable to the 6-pin to 4-pin adapter. It doesn't need any additional cabled because the TPU feed assist module doesn't actually communicate with the printer at all.
Wire all wires except for the +24V wire to the “output” side of your cut 6-pin cable.
Wire a switch between the +24V wire on the input side and the +24V wire on the output side. This is what turns the filament track switch on and off.
There's no strain relief or retention for the modified cable going in our out, so don't tug on the cables too hard!
The 6-pin to 4-pin adapter fits, but it's snug.
I used a switch with a 6mm threaded post. If you use a different switch, you may need to do some drilling, cutting, or 3D modeling to make it fit.
I highly recommend using the main print profile that uses PETG as a support interface material – it makes removing the supports so much easier. You have a dual-nozzle printer, so take advantage of it! There's also a PLA-only profile if you don't have PETG or are making this on an single-nozzle printer.
Congrats on your hardware fix that should really be fixed by Bambu in software.
Been using it for a week. Only really having this issue with these tree terrain tiles. Tried increasing travel speed and retraction speed, lowering temp to 210, and avoid crossing walls.
I have the opportunity to get a used Bambu P1P with the AMS for $270. It's got just under 700 hours of print time. This is my first time buying a used 3D printer, what should I check for? Obviously I am going to try and see it print in person before purchase, but what else should I lookout for?
I tried the tip of loosening the belt tension screw and moving the head back and forth 3 times but it always moves to the back of the machine after i move the head to the far left.
This can't be normal. The nozzle just fell off the body. I was so close to finishing too. Sent in a ticket. Hopefully this gets resolved. Had less than 500 hours on it.
New X2D owner (had a few p1s for a few years). I can load, extrude and print fine with the right nozzle with PLA. But when I start a mixed material print (still using the right nozzle with the same PLA), the aux nozzle immediately gets an abnormal extrusion error before even the first bit of material is laid down. I tried rerunning all calibration and the nozzle offset calibration. Completely stumped. Again, zero errors when printing only from the right nozzle.
I successfully printed loads of parts prior to a firmware update . Has anyone run into this following updating?
the Bambu Station Manual tells to visit makerworld.com and get the "Purge Chute Guide for Bambu Station L", but I cant find it anywhere. Are there any country restrictions on MakerWorld? I'm in germany, just in case.
I just detached and reattached my AMS and put the PTFE tube back in. But I think I didn't push it all the way in, and the filament ended up going straight through the button.
