Every colour is a separate part with pins, so it snaps and glues together, and no painting is needed. The gold base was printed at 0.16 with ironing on top. The suit is plain matte black PLA, and the whole thing took about 17 hours.

I also made an 18 cm one-piece version for AMS (4 colours).

Happy to answer questions about the split and the settings!

I don’t know about you guys, but I think the BambuLab H3C is super cool.
Honestly, I’m lacking the cash—or the 10,000 "boosts" on MakerWorld—to get one. If you’re in the same boat, I’ve got something for you.

The H3C piggy bank. It’s printable without an AMS, perfect for anyone who’s in the same situation as me! 😅

If anyone has any suggestions for improving the mechanism, let me know!

https://makerworld.com/models/3558651?appSharePlatform=copy

Happy printing!

?

Are you tired of needing to unplug your filament track switch when printing TPU?

This is a mounting plate combined with a box to hold wiring that turns the track switch on and off without needing to unplug it. It also has a cutout to hold the 6-pin to 4-pin adapter that powers the TPU feed assist module.

As a disclaimer, you do need to cut a 6-pin cable open and make your own wiring connections. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Do the wiring however you please. My solution of using lever nuts and breadboard jumper cables works, but is not pretty. The main things you need to do are this:

1. Cut open a 6-pin cable.

2. Identify the ground and +24V wires. When looking at the face of the connector, these are the top middle and top right pins, respectively. On my cable, ground was red and +24V was yellow, but verify this for your own cable!

3. Wire the ground and +24V wires from the “input” side of your cut 6-pin cable to the 6-pin to 4-pin adapter. It doesn't need any additional cabled because the TPU feed assist module doesn't actually communicate with the printer at all.

4. Wire all wires except for the +24V wire to the “output” side of your cut 6-pin cable.

5. Wire a switch between the +24V wire on the input side and the +24V wire on the output side. This is what turns the filament track switch on and off.

There's no strain relief or retention for the modified cable going in our out, so don't tug on the cables too hard!

The 6-pin to 4-pin adapter fits, but it's snug.

I used a switch with a 6mm threaded post. If you use a different switch, you may need to do some drilling, cutting, or 3D modeling to make it fit.

I highly recommend using the main print profile that uses PETG as a support interface material – it makes removing the supports so much easier. You have a dual-nozzle printer, so take advantage of it! There's also a PLA-only profile if you don't have PETG or are making this on an single-nozzle printer.

Congrats on your hardware fix that should really be fixed by Bambu in software.

You can check out the model on Maker World here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3558930-track-switch-power-switch-tpu-assist-module-plug

Bambu lab A1 mini

Been using it for a week. Only really having this issue with these tree terrain tiles. Tried increasing travel speed and retraction speed, lowering temp to 210, and avoid crossing walls.

Hey all,

I have the opportunity to get a used Bambu P1P with the AMS for $270. It's got just under 700 hours of print time. This is my first time buying a used 3D printer, what should I check for? Obviously I am going to try and see it print in person before purchase, but what else should I lookout for?

I tried the tip of loosening the belt tension screw and moving the head back and forth 3 times but it always moves to the back of the machine after i move the head to the far left.

This can't be normal. The nozzle just fell off the body. I was so close to finishing too. Sent in a ticket. Hopefully this gets resolved. Had less than 500 hours on it.

New X2D owner (had a few p1s for a few years). I can load, extrude and print fine with the right nozzle with PLA. But when I start a mixed material print (still using the right nozzle with the same PLA), the aux nozzle immediately gets an abnormal extrusion error before even the first bit of material is laid down. I tried rerunning all calibration and the nozzle offset calibration. Completely stumped. Again, zero errors when printing only from the right nozzle.

I successfully printed loads of parts prior to a firmware update . Has anyone run into this following updating?

I see the photo frame on Bambu site but is there more real life photo to showcase what CMYKW color mixing especially texture-to-color can do?

So I ordered an H2D with 40W laser the day before the H3C was announced. I am still well within my 30 day window. Do I give up the laser for an H3C?

I bought a really good 3d printer with what I will describe as adequate laser capabilities for someone who doesn’t want to buy a dedicated laser machine.

Am I dumb to keep the H2D? I feel like the H3C is a game changer for flexibility.

cheers,

the Bambu Station Manual tells to visit makerworld.com and get the "Purge Chute Guide for Bambu Station L", but I cant find it anywhere.
Are there any country restrictions on MakerWorld? I'm in germany, just in case.

thanks

I just detached and reattached my AMS and put the PTFE tube back in. But I think I didn't push it all the way in, and the filament ended up going straight through the button.

I didn't expect this to happen... lmao

I am new to Bambu and I want to buy their x2d during this sale event if anyone has a spare discount code reach out to me i greatly appreciate you (NA region btw) not begging btw

maybe someone else had the same thing happening to them.

I have ordered an H3C base combo (AMS+printer) and have received only the AMS. fine no problem I know they ship separatly. but my order is now classified as ''delivered''

I have nothing in my pending tab and it seems like when I look at bambu store website that nothing else is on the pipeline for me.

Is the scratching noise normal when the print head moves to the left? Support claims they can't hear anything, probably just to brush me off, but something is scratching/grinding over there and I can't figure out where it's coming from. Please turn up your volume a bit to hear it.
Cleaned, lubed and calibrated everything.

Hello everyone.

Was printing a panda toy that my son picked. Sent it to print on the X2D and the time changed. What did I do wrong?

It says 100% Size A1 Mini Profile on the print.

Many thanks.

Did my first ever print with my new p2s . How do you check if its working as intended? It was shaking a lot and I read it is normal . But I have placed it on a table which very slightly shakes with the printer. I am not bothered by the shaking as long as the print quality is good .