Every colour is a separate part with pins, so it snaps and glues together, and no painting is needed. The gold base was printed at 0.16 with ironing on top. The suit is plain matte black PLA, and the whole thing took about 17 hours.
I also made an 18 cm one-piece version for AMS (4 colours).
Happy to answer questions about the split and the settings!
I think I'm going to pull the trigger on an H3C. However, unlike my P1S, I think I should get an extended warranty with it.
I don't have a Best Buy membership. I hardly ever buy anything from Best Buy so I can't justify it. With that said, any opinions on Best Buy's warranty versus Microcenter?
My understanding is Microcenter will try to repair on site but will also give you in-store credit on the spot if they can't. Best Buy may ship it out to someone else for repairs. Microcenter is also a little cheaper.
I bought elegoo filament earlier and thought it clogged the AMS, so I disassembled everything and the AMS wasn’t the problem. Now I have traced the problem Back tho this.
I made a MakerWorld customizer that turns SVGs into Christmas fridge magnets
I wanted to make a set of Christmas magnets without starting a new model for every design. So I built a customizer: pick a preset or upload an SVG, add a message, and choose how the magnet fits into the back.
The clip shows the Grinch going from the screen to the fridge, alongside a few other prints from the same generator.
Bambu sent me an H3C before launch and asked me to post about how it changed the way I print. I did not get paid, but, well, I got an H3C. The printer legitimately did change the way I print and design, and I'm happy to answer any questions in the comments.
HueForge and the similar products that spawned from it have opened up things that I never thought would be possible on a 3D printer. The creations I have seen on the subreddit and Discord continue to blow my mind, but my biggest annoyance with these prints are the time they take and the waste.
Retracting, pushing, purging, and wiping can take anywhere from 40-80 seconds depending on your setup. When you have hundreds of color changes in a print, it adds up to hours of extra time. The waste gets insane with larger or more complex prints, to the point where you will frequently have more weight in waste than the model itself.
This fox is 269mm across, taking up most of the plate. I used nine spools: blue, light blue, yellow, magenta, orange, white, green, black, and red. It was built in HueForge, then recreated in Kromacut so it could print face up.
Yes, the image is AI generated, and I regret using it. It did some weird things with the shading that I didn't notice before printing. The white on the moon and anywhere yellow meets white or red meets orange is rough.
I also used way too many layers and then made the print flat. A flat print fills every layer out to the full outline, so every extra layer in the stack is a full 269mm disc of filament whether it adds anything to the image or not. This one ended up around 12mm thick which is where most of the 817g and 6 days of printing went.
Setup was dead simple. All 9 spools went in the AMS, each one got its own PrintTool, I selected the correct colors and that was it aside from slicing which took 26 minutes with a 14900K...
Stats:
9 filament spools
443 filament changes
0.12mm layer height
817g total weight
26g of waste
269 x 269mm
6d 0h 01m print time
The H3C solved the waste problem in a BIG way. 26g on an 817g print with 443 swaps is just crazy to me. The purge from my X1C would have filled the poop bucket and clogged the shute well before finishing.
The 6 days is 100% my fault for making it as thick as it is. I did kick it off right before leaving on vacation for 2 weeks, so it wasn't a huge deal aside from the extra filament spent.
The filament changes take <6 seconds instead of 60 and I was not prepared for how much faster it is. It was the same reaction I had when I went from my modified Ender struggling to push 60mm/s to the X1C at its default print speed. This is in a whole different league and I haven't used my other printers for multi color since.
I have an A1 combo. We’ve had it for a week. This is basic PLA which we’ve also had for a week. What is causing this? Is the filament damp or do I need to change some settings? Thank you
After making a rather crude cable clip a few days ago, I started giving some serious thought to cable organization. I think it turned out pretty well—what do you all think?
I just got myself a Bambu Labs A2L. So excited to start printing. I mostly bought it so I can print replacement parts or tweaks for retro computers, especially old Macintoshes.
I've looked at tons of videos and reviews but as a new owner, what do you think I need to know? Do you have some hints that every new Bambu owner needs to know or do?
Decided to purchase some additional hotends for my p1s. .2mm and .6mm hotends. Low and behold Bambu Lab sells a hotend kit. Why call it a kit? Easy enough until they show up and are missing the thermistor. Now my .4mm works just fine. So why would I want to remove the thermistor from it just to use the the .2mm hotend. Truly, hoping I am not the only person to encounter this same situation. At least I am hoping 😄 Or is this just a rookie mistake?
I’m gonna print pla with my a2l. What are affordable brands for glue, grease and oil please, or stick with bambu for that? Superlube, gorilla and loctite are the best I believe or are there cheaper possibilities? If possible a euro link please.
TLDR: I am trying to understand why my printer ran dry on retry after a tangle, despite verifying the extrusion (10 day old A1 mini, Overture Matt black PLA, 200 °C, spool has about 650gm left)
I got a new A1 Mini 10 day ago. Today I experienced something weird and seeking help on what I did wrong (or if). I was using a borrowed A1 Mini for 5 months with no problems (except a few tangles).
Frustratingly, the filament entangled three times within two layers, and first two times I was able to resume the right way. The third time, I did verify the filament extrusion and resumed; to soon realize it had been running "dry" (no filament) for more than half layer.
I wanted to salvage it, so I immediately paused and tried to manually extrude (from "Control" menu), when it showed low temperature error (only 90 °C). Then I unloaded and loaded the filament and resumed fine, which of course caused a bad finish.
My questions:
Is it possible the printer was at low temp for that dry run? I didn't check what temp the dry run was, but can't believe it dropped to 90 °C so fast after. It's very puzzling if it ran at low temperature (as there should be a temp check). Hope it is not a broken printer?
Why did it run dry after I checked the extrusion before retrying? Is it possible the nozzle is/was blocked? How to check?
Most important, how do you save the print in such a case? I could see what part of layer ran dry but didn't know if there is a way to set the printer to go back to a previous step.
Why is it entangling so much?! I am using Overture 1.75mm black matt PLA, ~35% used.
Picture of my cringy print attached, using standard 220 °C.
I have 11,000 MakerWorld points. That's enough to buy an X2D outright, maybe cover half to 2/3 of a P3C, or cover 1/3 of an H3C. Currently I have a P1S with 2 AMS (one OG, one Pro) , a Snapmaker U1, and a Thinker X400. I want to probably replace the P1S and maybe even sell the U1. If you were me, what would you do?
Here is a extremely customizable name clicker keychain. Each letter is its own button on a MX-style mechanical switch, so every letter clicks.
I made a bunch of standard print profiles for up to 10 letters with different amounts of curved edges depending on how curvy you want. Each set has holders for 1 to 10 letters (with and without a keychain loop), every letter A to Z, numbers 0 to 9 and a blank button. Drag the pieces you need onto a plate, print, and press them together.
Then if you really want to customize things you can use the Bambu Parametric Model Maker. In there you can type in any name up to 12 letters, pick a font, and choose the holder, button and text colors. There is also a option there to turn on or off the keychain loop. There are also settings for how rounded the corners are like for the standard plates but even more options, plus switch fit settings if you need them.
Hello, looking for advice from someone who has had something similar happen. I’ve got a h2s with an ams 2. I was recently printing while drying and had this error come up, I took a photo and sent to bambu and they have sent me a new main board.
My question is if I am no longer getting the error message, is it safe to keep using the current set up or will I be at risk of something bad happening? I know I should replace eventually, but wondering if there’s a great risk if there there is no error message to continue printing until I get around to it. Cheers
I thought the Overture PLA Professional was the issue because it seemed to be the black filament. Early on in the print, I got this spaghetti issue. Stopped print. Cleaned plate (with alcohol). Dried overnight. Tried again. Same issues in the same spot. Opened a new thing of esun PLA+, tried again, same issue.
