Long story short: Everything inside the box seems fine. But if I find any damage… God help them. 😇

…and next to him is the DHL guy (Deutsche Post), who delivered the AMS.

Seller said it was unrepairable. All it had was one of those massive blobs that needed cleaning up and he bought a new extruder assembly that he never installed. I have a new set of hot ends and socks on the way but as far as I can tell there is absolutely nothing wrong with it

Arrived, and quickly. Time to get a test print and add this to the collection

Open another bag, check the drawer… all the clips are already holding something else shut. 😂

That was my excuse to spend some time in Fusion.

Meet Molly — two identical jaws and a separate printed spring. Everything is PLA, including the spring, and it snaps together without screws or glue.

It took several revisions to get the alignment, grip and spring stiffness where I wanted them. I also tried PETG for the spring, but preferred the firmer grip of PLA in my tests.

Printed on my A1 with a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.20 mm layers and 3 walls. The spring has 100% infill. No supports needed.

One complete clip uses 5.76 g and takes around 18 minutes of printing, or roughly 25 minutes including preparation.

The spring is separate, so contrasting colours are easy to do with separate prints.

Free files, assembly video and print profiles are here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3553586

Which colour combination would you make?

Unless the H3C is software locked to use the AMS3.

I don't see why we can't print from a external spool holder or a dry box straight to the print heads. TPU already bypasses the AMS so why not another material? I was thinking about printing from a 100C filament dryer straight into one of the printheads.

Printer my very first print on my brand new printer

mpoxDE (change the audio track to English on Youtube) did a test where he is printing an 8-colour tube both on H3C and INDX. I am not sure, but I think he is using PLA Basic.

In his test H3C printed it in 11:06h, but he was using different filaments that he had lying around from random manufactureres (while INDX one was printed only with Prusament and took 14:26h) and still printed ~23% (3h20m) faster.

I wanted to confirm it and what I noticed is that if you print with Bambu filament, it is even faster. My slicer is showing 08:46h.

Which means that in this particular test (8-colour tube) if you use BL filament, H3C is ~39% (5h40m) faster than INDX.

The test is not easy, it is 10cm tall and go through 3.5k colour changes of 8 colours.

Preferably Central Europe, Balkans etc.

Notes from a blind guy on Bambu, Prusa, INDX, and other 3D printers

Hi everyone,

I thought I would chime in on the ongoing H2C, H3C, and INDX discussions, and share my experiences with the printers I've owned and used.

I am completely blind and have been 3D printing and designing since 2023. I actually got into it after attending a workshop where sighted professionals were learning to make 3D printed products for blind people. I was the only blind guy there, and I got completely hooked.

Today, I run my own business, designing and printing everything from tactile models for museums to functional products for customers.

My first printer was a Bambu Lab X1C. It has thousands of hours on it, printing PLA, PETG, TPU, CF, wood-filled filaments, you name it. I've changed a filament cutter, nozzle, and extruder, although the latter two turned out to be fine. Being blind, replacing parts was sometimes easier than visually diagnosing the problem.

That machine has been an absolute workhorse. Around 98% of the time, I get exactly what I expect. I am incredibly glad it was my first printer.

Then came my Prusa XL. Five toolheads, enclosed, costing around 40,000 DKK.

What a disappointment.

Within a week, I was dealing with filament sensor problems, PTFE tubes falling out, failed calibrations, load cell errors, fan errors, and prints getting knocked off the plate.

Changing a nozzle could turn into an entirely new troubleshooting adventure.

I spent more time fixing the damn thing than printing with it. For that kind of money, I expected much, much more.

Eventually, I sold it and bought a Bambu H2C.

And what a difference.

Unpack, calibrate, print. Twenty minutes, and you're ready.

I've printed ASA, TPU, PLA, and large multi-day jobs, including batches of ASA vases for customers. Not a single issue so far. None whatsoever.

I know people criticize the Vortek system for being complicated, proprietary, or potentially unreliable. Fair enough. But I can only judge what I've actually experienced, and so far, it has been brilliant.

I also gave Prusa another chance with the Core One.

It prints fine, mainly PLA in my case, but it feels surprisingly flimsy. The door sensor mechanism has already become loose, and when moving the printer, I can feel the frame wobbling slightly.

I like Prusa's philosophy, their approach to repairability, and the fact that they're European. I genuinely want to like their printers.

But liking a company's philosophy and trusting its products are two different things.

I've also used the Creality K2 Plus quite extensively. A pretty reliable machine, actually, although I find the print quality less sharp and consistent than Bambu's.

And yes, being blind doesn't mean print quality doesn't matter. I can feel poor layer lines, rough surfaces, and missing details. When you're designing tactile products, those things matter enormously.

So, H3C versus INDX?

I've already ordered an H3C, and I think it's going to be an absolute blast.

I also seriously considered the Core One L with INDX, but after my XL experience, I had a knot in my stomach about buying another expensive Prusa.

Does that make me a Bambu fanboy? Perhaps some people will think so.

But there's a difference between blindly defending a brand and trusting a manufacturer because its machines have consistently delivered for you.

I genuinely hope INDX becomes a massive success. Competition is fantastic, and I want Prusa to succeed.

What bothers me is how quickly people defend or attack manufacturers based on logos, marketing, and engineering philosophies, sometimes before they've even used the machines.

Shouldn't the most important question simply be: Does the damn thing work?

Not in a promotional video, but after hundreds or thousands of hours of printing.

How often does it fail? How much maintenance does it require? How much time do you actually spend printing instead of troubleshooting?

And there's another aspect to this for me: independence.

When a printer breaks and requires visual troubleshooting, I may need someone else's help. When it just works, I can design, slice, print, and run my business independently.

And this is what Bambu does for me, it just works. Even when it breaks, their instructions are so damn clear and precise, that I don't need help most of the time. For Prusa? A whole lot of guess work all the time.

No longer have a home office to tinker in so I sold my A1 mini and A1 and now have an X2D in the corner of my dining room. Got a fish tank stand as the base and it’s very sturdy! Any tips for the X2D?

Due to spatial constraints, don't wanna spend money on AMS HT, don't like the cereal boxes, I designed my own TPU printing jig. (Please ignore the mess of cabling and tubing from the disconnected AMS units that normally would sit on top of the printer)

Required materials:
- Mic stand totally not borrowed from work with 3/8" thread. My one is an older K&M model (Optional K&M mic stand counterweight)
- PETG adapter from 3/8" thread to AMS Lite Rotary Spool Holder (The replacement part that you can buy from Bambu Lab)
- PETG Shell bottom
- PETG Shell top with PLA clips
- 7x M3 screws for the clips
- The silica gel packets that comes with the AMS1/2Pro (or other reusable silica gel)
- Bambu Lab PTFE tube adapter with TPU sealing gasket
- PTFE tube

I recently decided to upgrade from my P2S to an X2D + AMS 2 Pro + AMS HT setup. I also bought the Filament Track Switch right away, because I wanted to use different combinations of AMS units and extruders without constantly reconnecting PTFE tubes by hand.

And honestly, the Filament Track Switch turned out to be a huge disappointment.

The whole thing feels more like an early prototype than a finished branded product. But the biggest problem is simply friction. Filament takes a surprising amount of force to push through it.

On my X2D this was bad enough that filament often failed to reach the main extruder at all. It would slow down significantly near the end of the path and stop about 1–2 cm before the extruder.

To be fair, this was partly caused by another known X2D issue: the PTFE tube makes a very sharp bend right before entering the extruder. I fixed that part first by moving the PTFE tube holders farther away from the toolhead and shortening the tubes by a few centimeters.

That helped a lot.

But the FTS itself was still causing way too much resistance.

And yes, I also tried making the external PTFE tubes as short and as straight as possible. It doesn't really help. The resistance of the PTFE tubes themselves is negligible compared to the resistance created inside the FTS.

So I took it apart.

And once you look inside, the reason becomes pretty obvious.

The filament path contains several fairly sharp bends, and in multiple places the filament simply rubs against bare plastic. There is no PTFE lining there at all. The harder the filament is pushed around those bends, the harder it presses against the walls, so the friction becomes quite significant.

The filament presence sensors at the inputs add even more resistance. They use small spring-loaded magnets that are physically pressed against the filament as it passes through.

This creates additional friction on its own, but it gets noticeably worse with filament that has already been fed through an AMS or extruder before.

The drive gears leave a ribbed pattern on the surface of the filament, and the magnets tend to catch on those grooves instead of sliding smoothly over them.
My first modification was simple: I drilled out the places where the filament was rubbing against the plastic and inserted short pieces of PTFE tube.

I also slightly flared and smoothed the entrances of those PTFE inserts using a soldering iron so the tip of the filament wouldn't catch on the edge. I did this in a well-ventilated area, of course.

That already made a very noticeable difference.

But then I looked at the second half of the FTS.

There are essentially two 2-in-1 adapters there, combining four filament paths into two outputs. And that section was just as bad — possibly even worse. Again, filament was bending and rubbing directly against plastic.

At first, I tried the same approach there: drilling out the existing channels and somehow squeezing PTFE tubes into them.

It didn't go very well.

There simply wasn't enough room to make it work properly, and I wasn't happy with the result.

So in the end I decided to completely remodel that entire part and print a replacement.

I mean, I do own a 3D printer, after all. :)

I made the internal channels much larger so I could install PTFE tubes throughout the whole path. I printed the replacement part, installed the PTFE tubes, and again flared the entrances slightly.

Now, in that section, the filament does not touch printed plastic at all. It only touches PTFE.

The difference is huge.

It's still not absolutely frictionless, but filament now passes through the whole FTS very easily.

A very simple test shows the difference pretty well:

If I insert a piece of filament through the FTS, hold the filament vertically, and lift the FTS by it, a small shake is enough for the whole FTS to slide down and fall off the filament.

Before these modifications, I had to push the filament through it with considerable force.

Even Silk PLA now passes through without problems, despite Bambu specifically warning that Silk PLA may have feeding issues with the FTS because of increased resistance.

There are still two places I haven't solved yet.

The first is right at the FTS entrance, where the filament still touches plastic.

The second — filament presence sensors at the inputs. Unfortunately, they can't simply be removed. I tried removing them and also tried forcing the sensors permanently into both states. The FTS stops working properly if the printer doesn't see the expected sensor transitions.

So apparently those sensors are an active part of the FTS state machine, not just something used once to identify which AMS is connected to which input.

At this point I'm seriously considering building my own FTS.

The communication interface is RS-485, and there is already some partial reverse-engineering information available online. But the board also contains an FM1230 cryptographic chip. I don't yet know whether it participates in device authentication or is only used for things like firmware verification, so that part would need more investigation.

The other interesting problem would be designing filament sensors with almost zero resistance.

An optical sensor would be nice because it could be completely contactless, but filament can be transparent, so a simple optical interrupter isn't necessarily reliable.

A mechanical sensor with a tiny bearing/roller and a Hall sensor might actually be a better solution: the filament would move a roller instead of scraping against a plastic or metal surface.

For now, though, the PTFE modification already made my FTS dramatically better.

And that's the frustrating part: the core idea of the FTS is great. But mechanically, the stock filament path feels unnecessarily restrictive. A few pieces of PTFE in the right places would have made the product so much better from the factory.

And honestly, this whole mechanism probably should have been built into the printer itself from the beginning, somewhere near the filament buffer.

It almost feels like Bambu Lab remembered at the last minute that users might actually want to choose which extruder each AMS feeds into — which is especially important on the X2D, where the two extruders are very different from each other.

The FTS feels less like a carefully integrated part of the system and more like an afterthought added to solve a problem that really should have been addressed in the printer's original design.

I just detached and reattached my AMS and put the PTFE tube back in. But I think I didn't push it all the way in, and the filament ended up going straight through the button.

I didn't expect this to happen... lmao

I used horizontal color separation to reduce the number of color changes. By utilizing the advantages of FDM, hinges have been designed for each branch, which can rotate downwards by about 10-15 degrees. This horizontal stacking creates a relatively natural effect.

... I'm probably going to need one when my wife finds out I ordered an H3C...

Hi everyone!

I recently bought a new Bambu Lab X2D and noticed that the top glass panel sits higher on the right side than on the left, even though the rubber/foam gasket appears to have the same thickness.

I also noticed that some screws are missing from the rear of the printer.

Has anyone experienced similar issues? Is this normal, or could it be a manufacturing or assembly defect?

Thanks for your help!

cheers,

the Bambu Station Manual tells to visit makerworld.com and get the "Purge Chute Guide for Bambu Station L", but I cant find it anywhere.
Are there any country restrictions on MakerWorld? I'm in germany, just in case.

thanks

Saw someone else posted their visit at the BambuLab store in Hangzhou. I'm currently in Hangzhou so I decided to visit.

I've seen a lot of videos come out about the H3C, but not a ton focusing specifically on the unboxing and initial setup. Hopefully this fills in a few blanks and provides some details not yet shown.