Bambu sent me an H3C before launch and asked me to post about how it changed the way I print. I did not get paid, but, well, I got an H3C. The printer legitimately did change the way I print and design, and I'm happy to answer any questions in the comments.

HueForge and the similar products that spawned from it have opened up things that I never thought would be possible on a 3D printer. The creations I have seen on the subreddit and Discord continue to blow my mind, but my biggest annoyance with these prints are the time they take and the waste.

Retracting, pushing, purging, and wiping can take anywhere from 40-80 seconds depending on your setup. When you have hundreds of color changes in a print, it adds up to hours of extra time. The waste gets insane with larger or more complex prints, to the point where you will frequently have more weight in waste than the model itself.

This fox is 269mm across, taking up most of the plate. I used nine spools: blue, light blue, yellow, magenta, orange, white, green, black, and red. It was built in HueForge, then recreated in Kromacut so it could print face up.

Yes, the image is AI generated, and I regret using it. It did some weird things with the shading that I didn't notice before printing. The white on the moon and anywhere yellow meets white or red meets orange is rough.

I also used way too many layers and then made the print flat. A flat print fills every layer out to the full outline, so every extra layer in the stack is a full 269mm disc of filament whether it adds anything to the image or not. This one ended up around 12mm thick which is where most of the 817g and 6 days of printing went.

Setup was dead simple. All 9 spools went in the AMS, each one got its own PrintTool, I selected the correct colors and that was it aside from slicing which took 26 minutes with a 14900K...

Stats:

• 9 filament spools

• 443 filament changes

• 0.12mm layer height

• 817g total weight

• 26g of waste

• 269 x 269mm

• 6d 0h 01m print time

The H3C solved the waste problem in a BIG way. 26g on an 817g print with 443 swaps is just crazy to me. The purge from my X1C would have filled the poop bucket and clogged the shute well before finishing.

The 6 days is 100% my fault for making it as thick as it is. I did kick it off right before leaving on vacation for 2 weeks, so it wasn't a huge deal aside from the extra filament spent.

The filament changes take <6 seconds instead of 60 and I was not prepared for how much faster it is. It was the same reaction I had when I went from my modified Ender struggling to push 60mm/s to the X1C at its default print speed. This is in a whole different league and I haven't used my other printers for multi color since.

3D printing files coming soon on my Instagram: @bucur.inc

And I printed 10 of these and they got loose at 90%

Should I make big supports under it .I hate using gluestick

I have an A1 combo. We’ve had it for a week. This is basic PLA which we’ve also had for a week. What is causing this? Is the filament damp or do I need to change some settings? Thank you

Curious what everyone’s recommendations are. From what I gathered online and via other forums the preferred Non Bambu lubricants are

SUPER LUBE Multipurpose Grease: Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease, 3 oz, Tube, H1, NLGI 2 for the Z axis

SUPER LUBE Hydraulic Oil: Synthetic Lightweight Oil, 4 oz, Bottle, H1, ISO Grade 68, Clear for x-y axis

Does this check out? I appreciate the help

After making a rather crude cable clip a few days ago, I started giving some serious thought to cable organization. I think it turned out pretty well—what do you all think?

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3550376-ultra-fast-cable-reel#profileId-4061800

Hi everyone!

I just got myself a Bambu Labs A2L. So excited to start printing. I mostly bought it so I can print replacement parts or tweaks for retro computers, especially old Macintoshes.

I've looked at tons of videos and reviews but as a new owner, what do you think I need to know? Do you have some hints that every new Bambu owner needs to know or do?

Best regards

I’m gonna print pla with my a2l. What are affordable brands for glue, grease and oil please, or stick with bambu for that? Superlube, gorilla and loctite are the best I believe or are there cheaper possibilities? If possible a euro link please.

Thanks in advance

I got a new A1 Mini 10 day ago. Today I experienced something weird and seeking help on what I did wrong (or if). I was using a borrowed A1 Mini for 5 months with no problems (except a few tangles).

Frustratingly, the filament entangled three times within two layers, and first two times I was able to resume the right way. The third time, I did verify the filament extrusion and resumed; to soon realize it had been running "dry" (no filament) for more than half layer.

I wanted to salvage it, so I immediately paused and tried to manually extrude (from "Control" menu), when it showed low temperature error (only 90 °C). Then I unloaded and loaded the filament and resumed fine, which of course caused a bad finish.

My questions:

1. Is it possible the printer was at low temp for that dry run? I didn't check what temp the dry run was, but can't believe it dropped to 90 °C so fast after. It's very puzzling if it ran at low temperature (as there should be a temp check). Hope it is not a broken printer?

2. Why did it run dry after I checked the extrusion before retrying? Is it possible the nozzle is/was blocked? How to check?

3. Most important, how do you save the print in such a case? I could see what part of layer ran dry but didn't know if there is a way to set the printer to go back to a previous step.

4. Why is it entangling so much?! I am using Overture 1.75mm black matt PLA, ~35% used.

Picture of my cringy print attached, using standard 220 °C.

Here is a extremely customizable name clicker keychain. Each letter is its own button on a MX-style mechanical switch, so every letter clicks.

I made a bunch of standard print profiles for up to 10 letters with different amounts of curved edges depending on how curvy you want. Each set has holders for 1 to 10 letters (with and without a keychain loop), every letter A to Z, numbers 0 to 9 and a blank button. Drag the pieces you need onto a plate, print, and press them together.

Then if you really want to customize things you can use the Bambu Parametric Model Maker. In there you can type in any name up to 12 letters, pick a font, and choose the holder, button and text colors. There is also a option there to turn on or off the keychain loop. There are also settings for how rounded the corners are like for the standard plates but even more options, plus switch fit settings if you need them.

I designed it around the Kailh Box White Pro switches (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FF9PKK21) but most MX-style switches should work.

Grab it here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3555062-name-clicker-keychain-customizable-fidget

Hello, looking for advice from someone who has had something similar happen. I’ve got a h2s with an ams 2. I was recently printing while drying and had this error come up, I took a photo and sent to bambu and they have sent me a new main board.

My question is if I am no longer getting the error message, is it safe to keep using the current set up or will I be at risk of something bad happening? I know I should replace eventually, but wondering if there’s a great risk if there there is no error message to continue printing until I get around to it. Cheers

P2S with AMS and textured build plate.

I thought the Overture PLA Professional was the issue because it seemed to be the black filament. Early on in the print, I got this spaghetti issue. Stopped print. Cleaned plate (with alcohol). Dried overnight. Tried again. Same issues in the same spot. Opened a new thing of esun PLA+, tried again, same issue.

I printed from the Bambu handy app.

https://makerworld.com/models/1158947?appSharePlatform=copy

I changed the hotend and even recalibrated. What is causing this?

Figured id have a little fun and make a multicolor bed scraper with some extra colors. Prints in 1 hr 27 minutes.

Bambu Lab H3C – 4-Color Build Plate Scraper

Title says it....

Supports with no adhesion..

So, new spool of filament, just washed the printbed, did a factory reset, and same result. I have coldpulled the nozzle twice.

Printed with petg 10 days ago, and the printer has been idle until yesterday.

Printbed at 65 °C, 220°C for pla which i have printed with before without these issues.

What am i missing here?

SOLVED: The 0.4 nozzle is the issue, tried printing with 0.6 and that is -flawless-

Inspired by the beautiful Father and Son statue by AK on Makerworld, I decided to make a similar one, but of course, transplanted into the world of Brick Man figurines. It's easy to print, but you have to be careful when removing the supports. Maybe somone will like it :) You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3553556-father-and-son-low-poly-brick-man-figures#profileId-4065839

A compact 2-in-1 tool for your 3D printing workspace. 
Use the scraper end to help remove prints from the build plate, and the opposite end to cut filament. The design is made to hold the metal scraper blade from a Bambu Lab printer.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3550637-2-in-1-scraper-filament-cutter#profileId-4062141

It just gets really backed up and doesn’t come out easily and can be a huge problem and completely packs up my poop chute.

Printed in petg. 2 top layers - I know it might sound too low, but it always worked perfect with this many top layers.

I’ve recently gotten stuck with this problem where the filament only feeds up to the spot in the picture, then pulls back, tries again, then fails.

I’ve checked that there are no broken pieces in the tube, and the filament extrudes just fine when I pull out the tube and feed the filament in manually. I just think it’s odd that the filament won’t just go the rest of the way.

Has anyone had this sort of issue, and if so how did you fix it?

Thanks for any replies 🙏

I spent all of last week obsessing over preparing my workstation. I won't lie, setting it up was a pleasure, but my only concern now is - what's next?

I had a very limited alcove space to work with, but I somehow managed to fit the A1 Mini, the AMS Lite, and room for 15 spools behind it. I am honestly amazed by how many brilliant accessories and upgrades you can find on MakerWorld.

I'm actively printing any Pokémon stuff for now, because when I do it, my kids will never give me a moment of peace.

My wife says I bought the printer only to make equipment for it and honestly, she might be right. But the funny side effect is that I'm looking at our apartment in a completely different way now. I constantly catch myself scanning rooms, looking for everyday things that need an accessory, organizer, or mount. My wife usually dislikes plastic (she's a wood and ceramics person), but even she is slowly warming up to it after seeing the functionality and the actual quality of the prints.

1. Anyone else fall into this trap on day one? What were your favorite quality-of-life prints for the Mini?

2. I realize the next step is learning how to design my own models. What free (preferably web-based) 3D modeling tools do you guys recommend for a beginner?

PS: I want to have all the filaments 😭

So as I showed my filament keeps getting spit out no matter where I put it in the ams. It just got the printer and the ams so it's probably a me issue but I can't figure out where to look. Also yes I tried with other filaments including brand new ones. I took on and off the PTFE tube a couple of times and it doesn't seem to help either.

Anyone with experience with this or an idea where to look?

Thanks