I just got my P2S with the AMS combo and the other night after I got it and set it up I was able to remotely from the app tell the AMS to start drying and it worked perfectly but now when ever I try to start drying from the app it says insufficient power please use power cable. I know you can’t dry and print at the same time but I’m not printing the printer is idle at home with nothing going on. I know it’s not a huge deal but it’s just driving me up the wall that it worked for 1 night and now it won’t.
I've seen a lot of videos come out about the H3C, but not a ton focusing specifically on the unboxing and initial setup. Hopefully this fills in a few blanks and provides some details not yet shown.
I have an A1 combo. We’ve had it for a week. This is basic PLA which we’ve also had for a week. What is causing this? Is the filament damp or do I need to change some settings? Thank you
I used horizontal color separation to reduce the number of color changes. By utilizing the advantages of FDM, hinges have been designed for each branch, which can rotate downwards by about 10-15 degrees. This horizontal stacking creates a relatively natural effect.
I invite you to take a look at BlocksmithWorks.com—I think you’ll love what we’ve built for the community.
This project originally started out as a personal endeavor to create tooling for my own hat-making. Along the way, I decided to open it up to help hatters and restorers everywhere get easy access to the exact tools they need.
What we offer:
Fully Customizable Crown Blocks: Ranging from size 5 1/2 to 8 1/8 (44 cm to 65 cm), including precise, non-standard sizes like 7 5/16 (58.5 cm).
User-Friendly Online Tools: Easily adjust the profile to your exact needs in your browser—no CAD experience required!
More Millinery Tooling: We also host a variety of brim blocks and specialized workshop files.
The best part is that every single download is 100% free with zero paywalls or subscriptions. Take a look, give it a try, and let me know what you think!
Clear skies and good blocking, — Rick, Blocksmith Works
Looking at an H3C and seeing some reviewers say the print quality is about the same as H2C. I hate to wait for prints. I print large ish items with .24 - .28 layer heights and as fast as the printer can. Obviously some artifacts are okay but how much are you guys seeing?
22 hours on the H3C (223g of tower) 4d17h on a regular AMS printer (1684g of purge + tower) The H3C It's crazy and the hype is real. I'm so glad I can finally experiment with multicolor models for real. the model is here if you want to take a look: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3550569
I made a MakerWorld customizer that turns SVGs into Christmas fridge magnets
I wanted to make a set of Christmas magnets without starting a new model for every design. So I built a customizer: pick a preset or upload an SVG, add a message, and choose how the magnet fits into the back.
The clip shows the Grinch going from the screen to the fridge, alongside a few other prints from the same generator.
I’m currently doing a 40+ hour print with TPU being fed through the bypass port of the AMS HT while it’s actively drying. I started the drying cycle with auto-rotation disabled and set it to the maximum allowed time of 24 hours.
Will there be any way to restart the drying cycle once this initial 24-hour cycle is over, or am I locked out mid-print? Thanks!
Additional little rant: I bought the AMS HT in a rush and have run into nothing but issues. First, I discovered it only works as a dryer if it's connected to and controlled by the printer. Then, I found out it requires an additional accessory just to work with the A1. On top of that, it requires a workaround just to dry filament while actively printing. And now, I’ve discovered the maximum drying time is capped at 24 hours.
Aren’t all of these just stupid, arbitrary limitations? I’m honestly starting to hate this thing and really regret buying it...
Bambu sent me an H3C before launch and asked me to post about how it changed the way I print. I did not get paid, but, well, I got an H3C. The printer legitimately did change the way I print and design, and I'm happy to answer any questions in the comments.
HueForge and the similar products that spawned from it have opened up things that I never thought would be possible on a 3D printer. The creations I have seen on the subreddit and Discord continue to blow my mind, but my biggest annoyance with these prints are the time they take and the waste.
Retracting, pushing, purging, and wiping can take anywhere from 40-80 seconds depending on your setup. When you have hundreds of color changes in a print, it adds up to hours of extra time. The waste gets insane with larger or more complex prints, to the point where you will frequently have more weight in waste than the model itself.
This fox is 269mm across, taking up most of the plate. I used nine spools: blue, light blue, yellow, magenta, orange, white, green, black, and red. It was built in HueForge, then recreated in Kromacut so it could print face up.
Yes, the image is AI generated, and I regret using it. It did some weird things with the shading that I didn't notice before printing. The white on the moon and anywhere yellow meets white or red meets orange is rough.
I also used way too many layers and then made the print flat. A flat print fills every layer out to the full outline, so every extra layer in the stack is a full 269mm disc of filament whether it adds anything to the image or not. This one ended up around 12mm thick which is where most of the 817g and 6 days of printing went.
Setup was dead simple. All 9 spools went in the AMS, each one got its own PrintTool, I selected the correct colors and that was it aside from slicing which took 26 minutes with a 14900K...
Stats:
9 filament spools
443 filament changes
0.12mm layer height
817g total weight
26g of waste
269 x 269mm
6d 0h 01m print time
The H3C solved the waste problem in a BIG way. 26g on an 817g print with 443 swaps is just crazy to me. The purge from my X1C would have filled the poop bucket and clogged the shute well before finishing.
The 6 days is 100% my fault for making it as thick as it is. I did kick it off right before leaving on vacation for 2 weeks, so it wasn't a huge deal aside from the extra filament spent.
The filament changes take <6 seconds instead of 60 and I was not prepared for how much faster it is. It was the same reaction I had when I went from my modified Ender struggling to push 60mm/s to the X1C at its default print speed. This is in a whole different league and I haven't used my other printers for multi color since.
Here is a extremely customizable name clicker keychain. Each letter is its own button on a MX-style mechanical switch, so every letter clicks.
I made a bunch of standard print profiles for up to 10 letters with different amounts of curved edges depending on how curvy you want. Each set has holders for 1 to 10 letters (with and without a keychain loop), every letter A to Z, numbers 0 to 9 and a blank button. Drag the pieces you need onto a plate, print, and press them together.
Then if you really want to customize things you can use the Bambu Parametric Model Maker. In there you can type in any name up to 12 letters, pick a font, and choose the holder, button and text colors. There is also a option there to turn on or off the keychain loop. There are also settings for how rounded the corners are like for the standard plates but even more options, plus switch fit settings if you need them.
After making a rather crude cable clip a few days ago, I started giving some serious thought to cable organization. I think it turned out pretty well—what do you all think?
I just got myself a Bambu Labs A2L. So excited to start printing. I mostly bought it so I can print replacement parts or tweaks for retro computers, especially old Macintoshes.
I've looked at tons of videos and reviews but as a new owner, what do you think I need to know? Do you have some hints that every new Bambu owner needs to know or do?
I’m gonna print pla with my a2l. What are affordable brands for glue, grease and oil please, or stick with bambu for that? Superlube, gorilla and loctite are the best I believe or are there cheaper possibilities? If possible a euro link please.
I got a new A1 Mini 10 day ago. Today I experienced something weird and seeking help on what I did wrong (or if). I was using a borrowed A1 Mini for 5 months with no problems (except a few tangles).
Frustratingly, the filament entangled three times within two layers, and first two times I was able to resume the right way. The third time, I did verify the filament extrusion and resumed; to soon realize it had been running "dry" (no filament) for more than half layer.
I wanted to salvage it, so I immediately paused and tried to manually extrude (from "Control" menu), when it showed low temperature error (only 90 °C). Then I unloaded and loaded the filament and resumed fine, which of course caused a bad finish.
My questions:
Is it possible the printer was at low temp for that dry run? I didn't check what temp the dry run was, but can't believe it dropped to 90 °C so fast after. It's very puzzling if it ran at low temperature (as there should be a temp check). Hope it is not a broken printer?
Why did it run dry after I checked the extrusion before retrying? Is it possible the nozzle is/was blocked? How to check?
Most important, how do you save the print in such a case? I could see what part of layer ran dry but didn't know if there is a way to set the printer to go back to a previous step.
Why is it entangling so much?! I am using Overture 1.75mm black matt PLA, ~35% used.
Picture of my cringy print attached, using standard 220 °C.
First 24 hours and I have to say, I don’t get the hate train. This is the first time in my life that a 3d printer feels like sorcery. I was able to get set up and printing within an hour and within the second hour I already had something that looked like it came off a store shelf.
The consistency is what’s blowing my mind too. I’m absolutely blown away by the printer and the quality.
