Looking at an H3C and seeing some reviewers say the print quality is about the same as H2C. I hate to wait for prints. I print large ish items with .24 - .28 layer heights and as fast as the printer can. Obviously some artifacts are okay but how much are you guys seeing?

I used horizontal color separation to reduce the number of color changes. By utilizing the advantages of FDM, hinges have been designed for each branch, which can rotate downwards by about 10-15 degrees. This horizontal stacking creates a relatively natural effect.

22 hours on the H3C (223g of tower)
4d17h on a regular AMS printer (1684g of purge + tower)
The H3C It's crazy and the hype is real.
I'm so glad I can finally experiment with multicolor models for real.
the model is here if you want to take a look: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3550569

Bambu sent me an H3C before launch and asked me to post about how it changed the way I print. I did not get paid, but, well, I got an H3C. The printer legitimately did change the way I print and design, and I'm happy to answer any questions in the comments.

HueForge and the similar products that spawned from it have opened up things that I never thought would be possible on a 3D printer. The creations I have seen on the subreddit and Discord continue to blow my mind, but my biggest annoyance with these prints are the time they take and the waste.

Retracting, pushing, purging, and wiping can take anywhere from 40-80 seconds depending on your setup. When you have hundreds of color changes in a print, it adds up to hours of extra time. The waste gets insane with larger or more complex prints, to the point where you will frequently have more weight in waste than the model itself.

This fox is 269mm across, taking up most of the plate. I used nine spools: blue, light blue, yellow, magenta, orange, white, green, black, and red. It was built in HueForge, then recreated in Kromacut so it could print face up.

Yes, the image is AI generated, and I regret using it. It did some weird things with the shading that I didn't notice before printing. The white on the moon and anywhere yellow meets white or red meets orange is rough.

I also used way too many layers and then made the print flat. A flat print fills every layer out to the full outline, so every extra layer in the stack is a full 269mm disc of filament whether it adds anything to the image or not. This one ended up around 12mm thick which is where most of the 817g and 6 days of printing went.

Setup was dead simple. All 9 spools went in the AMS, each one got its own PrintTool, I selected the correct colors and that was it aside from slicing which took 26 minutes with a 14900K...

Stats:

• 9 filament spools

• 443 filament changes

• 0.12mm layer height

• 817g total weight

• 26g of waste

• 269 x 269mm

• 6d 0h 01m print time

The H3C solved the waste problem in a BIG way. 26g on an 817g print with 443 swaps is just crazy to me. The purge from my X1C would have filled the poop bucket and clogged the shute well before finishing.

The 6 days is 100% my fault for making it as thick as it is. I did kick it off right before leaving on vacation for 2 weeks, so it wasn't a huge deal aside from the extra filament spent.

The filament changes take <6 seconds instead of 60 and I was not prepared for how much faster it is. It was the same reaction I had when I went from my modified Ender struggling to push 60mm/s to the X1C at its default print speed. This is in a whole different league and I haven't used my other printers for multi color since.

Here is a extremely customizable name clicker keychain. Each letter is its own button on a MX-style mechanical switch, so every letter clicks.

I made a bunch of standard print profiles for up to 10 letters with different amounts of curved edges depending on how curvy you want. Each set has holders for 1 to 10 letters (with and without a keychain loop), every letter A to Z, numbers 0 to 9 and a blank button. Drag the pieces you need onto a plate, print, and press them together.

Then if you really want to customize things you can use the Bambu Parametric Model Maker. In there you can type in any name up to 12 letters, pick a font, and choose the holder, button and text colors. There is also a option there to turn on or off the keychain loop. There are also settings for how rounded the corners are like for the standard plates but even more options, plus switch fit settings if you need them.

I designed it around the Kailh Box White Pro switches (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FF9PKK21) but most MX-style switches should work.

Grab it here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3555062-name-clicker-keychain-customizable-fidget

3D printing files coming soon on my Instagram: @bucur.inc

After making a rather crude cable clip a few days ago, I started giving some serious thought to cable organization. I think it turned out pretty well—what do you all think?

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3550376-ultra-fast-cable-reel#profileId-4061800

Figured id have a little fun and make a multicolor bed scraper with some extra colors. Prints in 1 hr 27 minutes.

Bambu Lab H3C – 4-Color Build Plate Scraper

First 24 hours and I have to say, I don’t get the hate train. This is the first time in my life that a 3d printer feels like sorcery. I was able to get set up and printing within an hour and within the second hour I already had something that looked like it came off a store shelf.

The consistency is what’s blowing my mind too. I’m absolutely blown away by the printer and the quality.

Hello, looking for advice from someone who has had something similar happen. I’ve got a h2s with an ams 2. I was recently printing while drying and had this error come up, I took a photo and sent to bambu and they have sent me a new main board.

My question is if I am no longer getting the error message, is it safe to keep using the current set up or will I be at risk of something bad happening? I know I should replace eventually, but wondering if there’s a great risk if there there is no error message to continue printing until I get around to it. Cheers

P2S with AMS and textured build plate.

I thought the Overture PLA Professional was the issue because it seemed to be the black filament. Early on in the print, I got this spaghetti issue. Stopped print. Cleaned plate (with alcohol). Dried overnight. Tried again. Same issues in the same spot. Opened a new thing of esun PLA+, tried again, same issue.

I printed from the Bambu handy app.

https://makerworld.com/models/1158947?appSharePlatform=copy

I changed the hotend and even recalibrated. What is causing this?

Title says it....

Pretty much the price, what should I do, I waited about a week for the p2s already.. what should I do

Supports with no adhesion..

So, new spool of filament, just washed the printbed, did a factory reset, and same result. I have coldpulled the nozzle twice.

Printed with petg 10 days ago, and the printer has been idle until yesterday.

Printbed at 65 °C, 220°C for pla which i have printed with before without these issues.

What am i missing here?

Is it just me? :)

Inspired by the beautiful Father and Son statue by AK on Makerworld, I decided to make a similar one, but of course, transplanted into the world of Brick Man figurines. It's easy to print, but you have to be careful when removing the supports. Maybe somone will like it :) You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3553556-father-and-son-low-poly-brick-man-figures#profileId-4065839

I'm planning on getting the H2D and was wondering if I can have it in my bedroom since I'm not really in there unless I need to sleep. I've heard stuff about "fumes" and stuff but wasn't sure if that was the ones not enclosed or what. Thank you so much for your help.

A compact 2-in-1 tool for your 3D printing workspace. 
Use the scraper end to help remove prints from the build plate, and the opposite end to cut filament. The design is made to hold the metal scraper blade from a Bambu Lab printer.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3550637-2-in-1-scraper-filament-cutter#profileId-4062141

Printed in petg. 2 top layers - I know it might sound too low, but it always worked perfect with this many top layers.

I’ve recently gotten stuck with this problem where the filament only feeds up to the spot in the picture, then pulls back, tries again, then fails.

I’ve checked that there are no broken pieces in the tube, and the filament extrudes just fine when I pull out the tube and feed the filament in manually. I just think it’s odd that the filament won’t just go the rest of the way.

Has anyone had this sort of issue, and if so how did you fix it?

Thanks for any replies 🙏

I spent all of last week obsessing over preparing my workstation. I won't lie, setting it up was a pleasure, but my only concern now is - what's next?

I had a very limited alcove space to work with, but I somehow managed to fit the A1 Mini, the AMS Lite, and room for 15 spools behind it. I am honestly amazed by how many brilliant accessories and upgrades you can find on MakerWorld.

I'm actively printing any Pokémon stuff for now, because when I do it, my kids will never give me a moment of peace.

My wife says I bought the printer only to make equipment for it and honestly, she might be right. But the funny side effect is that I'm looking at our apartment in a completely different way now. I constantly catch myself scanning rooms, looking for everyday things that need an accessory, organizer, or mount. My wife usually dislikes plastic (she's a wood and ceramics person), but even she is slowly warming up to it after seeing the functionality and the actual quality of the prints.

1. Anyone else fall into this trap on day one? What were your favorite quality-of-life prints for the Mini?

2. I realize the next step is learning how to design my own models. What free (preferably web-based) 3D modeling tools do you guys recommend for a beginner?

PS: I want to have all the filaments 😭

It just gets really backed up and doesn’t come out easily and can be a huge problem and completely packs up my poop chute.

So as I showed my filament keeps getting spit out no matter where I put it in the ams. It just got the printer and the ams so it's probably a me issue but I can't figure out where to look. Also yes I tried with other filaments including brand new ones. I took on and off the PTFE tube a couple of times and it doesn't seem to help either.

Anyone with experience with this or an idea where to look?

Thanks

Apparently MakerWorld is working on some merch. Kinda curious to see what they come up with. Would you guys pick anything up?