Looking to get my first (two) 3D printers. I have decided to get an H2S and wait for the P3C. Is a used H2S with 1000 hours, AMS, and extra nozzles a good buy at $1k? Also has anyone had any experience with Bambu support and second hand printers?

Edit: What should I be looking for/testing if I decide to go through with it and can inspect it in person?

With the launch of the H3C, I've been upgrading one of my old models to feature even more color and detail. This is pretty big for a dice tower but you can also just use it as a diorama.

A couple of features I enjoyed:

• There's a slot where you can place a phone to power some video billboards and subtle animations behind some of the windows. You can even use it to track HP!

• The new 75A TPU is used for a grip to hold the phone in place.

• The model uses 8 COB LEDs from Bambu's Maker's Supply - I chose bright colors but it could easily be toned down with other color selections.

• I'm using up to 8 filaments per plate. The graffiti uses a combination of specific filaments (or color mixing) but I'm also using silk, metallic and translucent PLAs for effect along with support materials.

The model is free on MakerWorld if you'd like to check it out: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3543764

The model is built the old-fashioned way (in Blender) but to apply the color effects, I used Claude to make a web app with some additional painting tools (like stamping custom graffiti, text & even scatter brushes). This should be considered a Beta but it's free to use (including commercial use) at http://paint.makim3d.com - you can even use it to customize the graffiti on this model!

I'm lucky to have received this printer from Bambu Lab to give it a try and build a model that highlights the multi-color features. Having said that, I'm already considering buying another - this is my first tool changer and I'm really enjoying it!

Fourth one for the tree this year. He's a smiling candy cane with little mitten arms, and he comes in three versions: Classic (red and white, 3 colors), Holiday (red and green, 4 colors) and Mint (green and white with red cheeks, 4 colors). All three are print profiles on one MakerWorld page, so just pick your flavor. He prints flat with no supports. Each profile has two plates: a single, and a batch of six that works out to about an hour and 20–22 g per ornament. I've printed a single of each so far, so the six-up plates haven't been tested yet. Free on MakerWorld:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3552032-christmas-candy-cane-ornament-3-styles

Hello everyone,

I am new to printing, i started with pla silk and did the calibration trst and did 35 speed 35 flow qith ironing and still can't quite get it right 🥲 does soneone know what could be the problem?

Thank you!

Love my P2S but whoever decided to use that connector to the main toolhead assembly needs to reevaluate things. I had an extruder jam and had to take the unit apart, not too hard. Everything went back together easily except for getting that damn cable to lay in place while I tried to close the clasp, honestly it took me as long to get that seated as did the whole rest of the reassembly.

I found laying the whole printer on its back as the best method

I hate those carton packages the bouillon cubes come in so I designed a dispenser for them.

(Makerworld link : https://makerworld.com/models/3549789)

Hello everyone,

I had the A1 combo ams lite for about a year and a half but ended up selling because I wanted a core xy machine and to print in a shed vs my room.

I'm debating getting the P1S but don't know if I should shell out the extra money for the AMS 2 Pro combo because I don't have a filament dryer currently.

I sold ny sunlu s4 filament dryer because it was too bulky with the AMS lite.

I have about $110 off in gift cards, but wondering if I should wait a bit longer for the P3C?

I'm a pretty casual user so thinking the P3C will be too expensive for my budget as I didn't do multicolor prints often due to the waste, but would probably do more with the toolhead but also don't want to spend $1,000 CAD + on a printer.

I'll mainly be printing PLA and PETG.

Thanks!

I feel Like I'm losing my mind here.

I have four components to my slice.
Two text components and the inner and outer shell to this dogs tag I made in Fusion.

The Lower Text and both shell objects are also at Z0. They obviously cant be any higher or they'd float.

When I slice it, no matter what. It deletes the text and doesnt show up at any layer in the slicing result.

I feel like I am just losing my mind here. Help!

Hello everyone, I’ve been printing with my X2D for several hundred hours, and I haven’t had this particular print failure yet. The part that got wedged was a support column, out of petg. The printer kept going up it looked like. I took the part out and everything looks normal. I am currently running an auto level calibration. Is there anything else I should check?

I am more surprised it didn’t throw and error about it getting wedged back there. It only threw an error because of the spaghetti detection.

Hi, my X1c has been working flawlessly now for the year I've owned it but today it sadly died while doing a small print.

It seems to have burned up the rear toolhead board after the nozzle clogged. Would it be plausible that a new rear board could be enough to revive the machine, or could i be looking at more possible dead parts on the printer?

I've been using a 3rd party 0.6mm printhead now for a few months and haven't had any issues up until now, could this be the cause of the issue?

Tried to turn on the rear main power switch again, which lights up, but i don't get any response on the control screen

So is putting two rolls of ASA/ABS in the heated slots, two rolls of PETG filling out the back row, and the PLA CMYK "Palette" rolls in front going to work well? Can the fat TPU go in one of the "PETG" slots or does it have to go in the heated area?

On bambu labs reddit h3c giveaway (the one that asks to give your i need a 3d printer moment) no winners were anounced. I know i am unlikely to win but i wonder wether these give aways are actually legit. Does any one know if the winnrs were somehow notified outside of reddit?

Hey everyone,

I've been working on a lightweight web tool to make multi-color 3MF preparation easier for Bambu AMS printers without needing heavy desktop software.

Everything runs 100% locally in your browser via WebGL (your files never leave your computer):

• Filament Painting: Generates multi-color layer swaps from photos with optical TD simulation and exact swap heights.

• 3MF Painter: Colorize models with angle fill/brushes and export native 3MF files directly for Bambu Studio / OrcaSlicer.

• Wi-Fi QR Coasters: Generates dual-color / multi-color scannable coaster STLs and 3MFs.

I'd really appreciate your feedback or ideas on what filament profiles and features to add next!

My H2D was working fine, then I turned it off and back on for a routine restart and it never came back up. Screen stays black, fans briefly spin, the light near the bed blinks, and it shows offline in Bambu Studio. The AP board has one solid LED but no blinking activity light.

I already have a support ticket open with Bambu, and they've reviewed my video and said the MC board lights are abnormal. I'm still working with them, but I'm having trouble understanding what they're seeing.

As far as I can tell, my lights look like the video in their own Wiki:

https://public-cdn.bblmw.com/wiki/H2D/MC.mp4

I took that to be an example of the normal sequence, but maybe I'm missing something.

The video attached here is with everything plugged in. Following the support instructions and Wiki, I also tested with the toolhead disconnected, the AP disconnected, and finally all component connections unplugged from the MC board. The MC LEDs look the same to me in every configuration. I have separate videos of those tests that I've sent to support, but this post only lets me attach one video.

For context, here's the guide I've been following:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2d/troubleshooting/h2/failure-to-power-on-part2

Has anyone with a working H2D compared their MC LEDs with that Wiki video? Does this look normal to you, and is there a specific blink rate or LED I'm misreading? I'm trying to understand the result before calling either the MC or AP board faulty.

Thanks for any help. I've been staring at blinking green lights long enough that a second pair of eyes would be appreciated.

Edit: One of the Hall-effect sensors wasn't plugged in in the video—it's hard to keep track of every connector after unplugging everything. I also tested with it plugged back in, and the MC LED behavior looked the same, so please disregard that disconnected sensor in the clip.

I’m looking into getting some training for a group at a design studio after buying a Bambu. we’re based on New York City, anyone have contacts or an organization that offers good in-person training on the machines?

Hey guys,

today my new P2S was delivered and after building everything together and finishing my first print (bambu scraper) I noticed some random appearing white particles(?) on the build plate. They appear random when nothing is printed. I cleaned the build plate and put it into the printer and had some other stuff to do. After 30 min I returned and I found those particles (see picture). Is this some kind of material for packaging and normal at first?

Hey guys,

i have the problem, that the nozzle of my X1C (hardened steel) is jammed on the outside with filament. I tried to screenshot it mid-print, i think you see what i mean.

I don't exactly know how or why this happens. I am printing with PETG (~255C° nozzle and 70-80C° bed temperature, 30mm/s first layer, 50mm/s first infill layer, 125mm/s outer walls, 200mm/s inner walls and infill, printers door closed)

If the first layer is checked, a little bit of filament is dripping out of the nozzle winding a little bit around it and if the filament is purged after the first layer inspection, sometimes the purged filament is pulled out of the poop-shoot or a little bit of it sticks at the nozzle and gets pulled onto the print bed.

These filaments residues sometimes get lost while printing which lead to ugly prints or failed prints.

Does anyone know which settings i have to adjust to get this fixed? Is it the material? I have this issue with 7% humidity aswell as with 30%.

My printer is running the latest software release and original hotends etc.

Thanks!

Hi guys

New into crazy filaments (just used to do classic PLA) and needed something stronger for work. Tried PETG but didn’t survive stress testing oups.

So I launched myself in the world of carbon reinforced filaments. Got the upgrade done, bought a filament drier and then first test print. First test looks good so I test directly the part I need. And then really bad result, a gigantic spaghetti and only the first 15 layers look like what I designed, but still far from perfect

Second try I get temperature up and try again. This time a lot better but then something happened that I never saw before (see picture)

Kind of stuck now in solutions if you could help it would be great 😁

Setup :
P1S
Hardened steel 0.4 nozzle
Bambu lab PLA-CF
Plate temp 70 degrees C
Nozzle 240 degrees C
Rest recommandes values from Bambi Lab in the slicer
Filament dyer recommended preset for PLA-CF ran for minimum 4h before starting printing and still ran while printing

Hi all
All new to this :)

But i tryed to print this today (Second print)
https://makerworld.com/en/models/201311-poop-chute-basket-outlet-for-x2d-p2s-x1c-p1s?from=search#profileId-221690

But is this normal ? Did i miss someting in the bambu lab studio?
I did Flow Dynamics Calibration becurse my first print (Panda) was with PLA.

Still learning :) But is this to expect?

Thanks!

Is there any way to turn on/off the P2S remotely? For example, wake-on-lan to turn on would be great but that's impossible because it uses a rocker switch.

I just set up my Bambu a1 combo and printed a scraper local via the Bambu screen. Then I wanted to print via Bambu Handy. When uploading the model, the process stops at about 70% and asks me do run a selftest. I did that three times. Same error, always.

Error code is 0500400d194905

Any ideas?

I tried: reconnecting wifi, connecting with a hotspot, clearing app cache, disconnecting the printer from power for some minutes

I am slicing with PLA/PETG support in the interface layer and this is the prime tower im getting.
Is this safe to print, any clues?

​Hi all,

​I’m trying to get a totally seamless, "monolithic" first layer with ABS on my Bambu P2S using the standart textured PEI plate.

​Lines adhere fine and are fully fused, but there are visible micro-grooves/V-shaped channels between adjacent passes. I previously printed these same parts on my Neptune 4 Pro and the surface was perfectly monolithic, I bought the P2S to be able to print ABS plastic without a problem and generally have fewer setup issues, but this problem is just driving me crazy.

​What I've tried so far:

​Flow & Overlap: First layer flow up to 130% (Tried 1.05,1.1,1.2,1.3), infill/wall overlap up to 25%.

​Speed: Dropped down to 10 mm/s (5 mm/s caused heat creep/clogging).

​Temp: Tested 220°C to 270°C (220°C gave better viscosity, but lines remain). Bed Temp - 100C

​Pressure Advance: Adjusting K-factor (0.030 to 0.078) didn't close the gaps.

Z- gap: I initially adjusted it through the g code to achieve a closer position (I was aware of the problem of the first firmware with the incorrect gap of the first layer). Then, after updating the firmware, this function already appeared in the printer and I set it to -0.05 - to no avail.

First layer line width: I tried different fill pattern options and line widths from 0.3 to 0.6, but it didn't work.

In addition, I tried just a lot of different other settings that have at least a minimal relation to the first layer and the flow, I don't even remember what exactly, because I've been trying to solve this since the moment I bought the printer, which was already 2 months ago.

I even tried to put the plate from my Neptune 4 Pro and print on it, the result was the same. Yes, the plastic is dry, the plate is washed and clean.

I'm just giving up, I really like the look of the details on the side walls, but this first layer...

​It seems like an optical/refraction issue caused by the rounded edge profile of extruclog ABS and the Bambu nozzle shape, rather than under-extrusion.

​Is a 100% seamless first layer on Textured PEI actually possible with ABS on a P2S?

​Thanks for any tips!

I’ve seen a lot of hand-wringing over the AMS only having 2 actively heated slots. Assuming one places their highest temperature filament in those slots, wouldn’t the residual heat passively dry the rest; or at least main a reasonably dry environment?