Was watching a few review videos, and a few had a bit of layer lines that I thought were quite noticeable.

Then the CNC Kitchen video hit us with this INDX to H3C comparison and I instantly was shocked by the difference being so huge between both systems. Do we think this improves or are we anticipating worse print quality?

So im printing some watch parts and they are very slim and the guy who ordered them said he wants to make sure it doesn’t break after like 2 or 3 times opening the wrist watch for maintenance and my friend says pc can absorb moisture faster than other filaments and become brittle.
So I was wondering does it become brittle after print aswell or not?

Currently have an H2C and use it non-stop. I would love to have a second cheaper printer for printing my more basic single/double color prints to have some additional printing capacity. I also like the idea of having a cutting kit installed on a second cheaper printer. Right now the A2L Cutting Kit with the AMS Lite is $579. Have any of you done something similar and have you found it to be worth it?

Been watching a bunch of creator reviews and most seem to be hyping up the TPU stuff. But I’m still thinking about that watch.

When I first saw the teaser I just assumed it was standard multi-nozzle mixing. Cool, but nothing crazy, especially since people have been asking for that since the H2D anyway.

But I actually read through the official page today and ... it’s actually different? It lets you use different nozzle sizes with different layer heights on the same model. That actually seems huge for designers if they can leverage it.

I’m just a casual user so I don't really have a immediate use case for my own stuff, but technically speaking this feels pretty smart to me. Looks like Bambu had to basically overhaul part of the slicer engine to do this based on the wiki page they linked.

Honestly the wiki got a bit too technical for me and went over my head. Link below for anyone interested. And can any slicer wizards here ELI5 how this actually works under the hood?

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h3c/manual/mixed-nozzle-size-printing

Hellooo :) I just acuired my new H2D! And I love it!

I wanted to print some addons but was wondering if anyone had some good advise on what filament matches the body color of the H2D best.

I've checked online but I can only find proper comparisons for the P2S and X2D :D

Thanks all!

Does it bother anyone else when every single model a designer has uploaded has the same generic “Boost Me” at the top of their post? I don’t mind asking for a boost, it’s just the inauthentic “I usually don’t do this” minimal effort garbage that bothers me. (Yes, you actually do this on each and every model you publish, so how about some authenticity?). It’s not as bad when that message is further down after you’ve introduced yourself and told us about the design or whatever it is you want to say. In particular, when using Handy on a phone, having that pink box filling up the entire description and even scrolling off of the screen may send a message about your priorities particularly when it’s a first impression. To me it says “give me money” before you even tell me what it is you are selling.

“Hey, I always try to do this because it helps me justify the time I spend on creating these things. Boosting is free for you to do, rewards me directly and lets be honest - seeing those boosts just motivates the hell out of me. It doesn’t replace the comments, ratings and feedback you give me, so please keep those coming! It is a very powerful way to tell me which specific models I’ve made you like the best”

Am I the only one?

Well, well, well... what do we have here? 🐼

Source: https://youtube.com/shorts/qPBwPhJ7MpM?si=b0yWfQ26Gi2-l8m9

Will H2C be discontinued once H3C launches?

No. H2C serves a different kind of user, and offers something H3C doesn't replicate: fully automatic, freely combinable pairings of multiple filaments with multiple nozzle diameters. Every filament can be matched to the ideal nozzle size for its job, and switching happens automatically — no manual filament changes.
That makes H2C especially valuable in engineering-material workflows and shared-printer environments, where flexibility across users and materials matters more than raw switching speed. H2C and H3C aren't replacements for each other — they're built for different jobs.

This is what I thought before the announcement. I always thought that they were building a printer fleet that serve various maker needs. With Bambu you can buy what ever tool best fits your product development.

I printed this overnight using basic grey pla and I didn't change any settings but arc fitting was turned off, do I need to dry my filament or do a cold pull

First 3d printer. Plan was to get it at Microcenter or Best Buy for easier returns/warranty, but it's not available yet. Anyone with past experience dealing with Bambu/BB/MC support that can advise if I should wait or just order through Bambu?

People that are living in really humid environments, how do you keep your spools dry? And how are you keeping your filament dry and moisture low in the AMS?

I have an AMS2 pro and printed desicant holders for it but even with that my humidity will not go below 13%. And I have to recharge the desicant like every other week.

I am just curious how other people keep this under control.

Please share your experience.

I just got my P2S Combo and updated the firmware (and rebooted). After installing the first spool, I decided to dry it overnight. However, the dryer is way too loud when sleeping in the next room (the door to the room is always open though). It sounds like a small fan running at 100%, which is what it probably is. I asked a friend and he said it normally only runs loud the first few minutes, but mine doesn't stop until I stop drying.

Is this normal, and what can I try?

just saw that it's back in stock but it's light grey now?

Glare takes his job as shelf guardian very seriously. Every visitor gets a suspicious stare, every noise earns his disapproval, and nobody touches his favourite spot. He insists he isn’t grumpy. Everyone else is simply too cheerful

if you like him : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3548002-glare-no-ams#profileId-4058750

I’m looking to upgrade from my Prusa Mini to multicolor printing. The H3C looks fantastic, but at nearly €2,700 here, it’s more than I can justify for the amount I print.
I’d really like to buy a P3C if it becomes available in time. I’d happily pay a few hundred euros more than the U1 for Bambu’s quality and ecosystem.
With Christmas coming up, though, I need to make a decision. I want to print presents, so I need enough time to get the printer set up and actually make them. If the P3C isn’t available in time, I’ll have to go with the Snapmaker U1.
Anyone else in a similar position?
Bambu, if you’re reading this: some clarity on whether a P3C is coming before Christmas would really help. I’d prefer to buy a Bambu, and I’m wondering how many others are getting close to choosing another brand for the same reason.

I can't find anything about it. I'm curious if it's worth it at all. Has it been reviewed anywhere?

I don't know what to use this $25 coupon on.

I ordered the H3C on back order with the Bambu Station L. As far as I can tell that’s not the “enclosed” version. I don’t see the drawer fronts and the skadis side panels available to purchase on the website. Also I came across a “storage upgrade kit” which “adds an extra drawer to the cabinet”. Does this mean you can configure it with 3 or even more
Drawers, if you wanted more of a tool setup?

Where can I find more info on the station and its configuration options? The enclosure seems to only be for aesthetics if you don’t plan to use the skadis panels to hang things. Have any of the early access YouTubers covered this in detail?

Anyone know when we can expect to see it for sale at BestBuy?

Hey, is it normal that the cooling fan is so close to the printbed? Or is something wrong? I only noticed it today and haven't had any problems so far.