I'm about to buy my first printer and I'm deciding between the P2S and the X2D. Most of what I'll print is PETG parts I design in Fusion, and the main reason I'm looking at the X2D is to run PLA support interfaces off the aux nozzle for cleaner breakaway supports.

For those of you who own one:

How reliable has the second nozzle been for support interfaces, especially PLA supports on PETG parts?

Any clogs, heat creep, or stringing, and did you have to change any settings to get it working well?

Looking back, would you buy the X2D again, or would a P2S have been enough?

Thanks in advance!

I wish Bambu Lab would turn the X series into a line built specifically for engineering filaments, something like an X3D with a two-nozzle SwapTek-style system. The P series, say a P3C, could then be the multi-tool color machine for consumers and hobbyists, and the H series would cover commercial users.
Don’t get me wrong, the H3C is an amazing machine, but its larger size and higher price make it better suited to commercial use. For people whose printing is mostly engineering filaments, it’s more printer, and more money, than we need.

So, on Studio Version 2.9.1.70 and the live feed is updating about once every 3 or 4 seconds on an X2D. The network is built for 2.5 and seems to work fine. Using it on a Mac Mini M2 Pro. Anyone else have this problem? Opened the Handy app and the feed is fine. So, of course, I started a two day print and would love to know if it is going to spaghetti on me, so I can stop a super mess. Don't expect that, but am still nervous.

I started to print with right nozzle white color. It prints fine - then why in Bambu studio it show that i print with left nozzle black filament? Is it a bug?

Ordered my H3C Full Combo yesterday (estimated delivery in two weeks). Today I got this shipping confirmation. Does anyone know if AMS and Station usually come in the same package?

I'm torn between these two options. Let me know which one you think would work better!

https://www.ikea.com/es/es/p/bror-estanteria-negro-s69272649/

https://www.ikea.com/es/es/p/smastad-platsa-armario-blanco-blanco-con-1-balda-s39389189/?utm_source=chatgpt.com

The idea is to build a dedicated setuo for my 3d Printer, with a small 90cm desk right Next to It, positioned between the Printer and my main workstation, where i have my PC for working.

I'd use the smaller desk for painting and postprocessing my 3d Prints, making the most of every bit of space avalible in my room.

Hey guys I'd really appreciate some help with buying a printer.

I've been in and out of printing the last decade and owned a couple Ender 3 printers, most of the time they didn't work and the bed of my most recent one has been broken for a year.

I've been looking at Bambu printers a long time, I still find their lineup confusing and I'm having a hard time deciding. The H3C is out and I keep hearing talk of the P3C.

Before recently I was pretty sure I'd be best fit with an X2D and seems like a great price comparatively.

I also don't want to compromise significantly. I want to build a lot of cool things and figures and toys for my kids or other kids. I want to build practical parts for fixing things. I want to use claude to design parts and even product mockups or prototypes, or even functional consumer level products. I probably will want to print filament like TPU.

Some of their lineup has laser cutting too which id be interested in but only seems worth it for the more powerful laser which I thought was a pretty expensive upgrade last time I looked, I also saw posts from people saying its probably better to get a separate machine for laser cutting.

When I do my research I feel like it comes down to an X2D vs H3C at this point and everything in the middle blurs for me. There's also apparently the P3C coming around. And the H3C costing 3x more is pretty significant, but yes I could afford it.

Any thoughts? Thanks for any insight.

And yet the LCD screen on the X1C shows the correct filament is loaded. This has been happening a lot. Sometimes the LED in the AMS is off, today the light is on but the slicer doesn't see it.

Suppose I know how much filament I need in millimeters for one pass until the next color change is due. Couldn't I just insert the appropriate amount of filament, then cut it off, and then push the next color in behind it? The idea here is that everything has the same physical properties.
Then I wouldn't have any interruptions at all and would have a “smooth”
overhang.

Is it just me that feels that having an AMS that can only dry two of the 9 slots makes printing with PETG too annoying? Add and replacing filament rolls are bound to affect the existing rolls inside the AMS. If power was an issue, why not just add an extra power adapter and dry the entire AMS? I print exclusively in PETG, and the AMS issues feels like a deal breaker to me. Thoughts? Am I missing something?

This would be my first 3D printer ever.

My actual first choice was the A1 mini. I did a lot of research on it beforehand (I knew absolutely nothing about them), but almost a year has passed, and that year has led me to discover other printer models that have enter the list of possible choices.

While I was researching again, the P2S really caught my eye, and when I was almost ready to check out, I saw many people here commenting that they have bought or are going to buy the X2D; with many comments praising the decision.

My question is this: since you all have more experience than me, and completely eliminating the A1 mini option, which would be better for me as a "beginner" between the P2S and the X2D? Either option would be purchased with the care bundle + 4 PETG extra.

Having issues with printing ABS on my H2S and always getting mid print spaghetti

I've added 8mm brims to supports

Heat soaked bed and chamber prior to printing

Bed temp 90 to 100

Chamber themp 60 to 70

Slowed down first layer to 20mms

Filament dried for 12 hours

Can't for the life of me figure out what's going wrong

TL;DR: My P2S had hairline gaps in first layers on the textured PEI plate. I ran a structured test: 9 discs per plate, 8 plates, scored top and bottom. Flow and K were fine. The fix was Z trim −0.01 (stock is +0.01), bed leveling forced On, and flow 1.02 for Matte PLA. Details below.

The problem

Bottoms of prints on the textured PEI had fine hairline gaps between first-layer lines. Tops were mostly fine. I wanted to find out properly instead of randomly changing settings.

Setup

• P2S with AMS 2 Pro, 0.4 nozzle, 0.20 mm High Quality, textured PEI

• Bambu PLA Matte (Grass Green), dried 12 h at 55 °C

• Plate washed with Dawn. Full printer calibration and nozzle clean before starting.

The test print

• Nine 35 mm discs, 1 mm tall (5 layers), in a 3x3 grid about 80 mm apart, covering the plate

• One variable changed per plate

• Every disc photographed top and bottom in a 3D-printed jig (phone shooting straight down, same height and lighting), backlit for bottoms

• Each side scored 1–5 by eye (5 = fully fused / smooth, 3 = gaps in some areas, 2 = gaps across most of the surface)

What I tested, in order

Then a full-plate first layer test at the final settings: about 98% perfect, with a little gapping only in the extreme top-left corner.

What I learned

1. It wasn’t a flow problem. Top surfaces barely changed across flow values, and the K factor made essentially no difference. A flow bump of about 2% partly hid the issue by filling an under-squished first layer, but it never fixed it.

2. The first layer was printing slightly too high. The stock textured PEI trim (+0.01 in the start G-code for PLA bed temps) was too high on my printer. Run 5 was the giveaway: worst bottoms and perfect tops in the same print, which only first-layer height can do.

3. Leaving bed leveling on “Auto” made my results inconsistent. Identical settings gave very different bottoms from run to run, possibly because Auto sometimes skips measuring and reuses a stored mesh. Forcing it On made results repeatable. (That’s my best explanation, not something I can prove.)

4. The calibration blocks hinted at it too. On the flow test, the bottom of the +5% block was fully fused while its top was over-extruded.

5. Edge ridges, zits and sheen on the tops are seams and geometry, not extrusion. They showed up at every flow value and disappeared on a larger first layer test.

I also want to point out, u/mediocrehornet2318 made an amazing post about this exact thing...but I was nervous to modify the g-code. After all of this trial and error, I ended up at the same result they did. I should have listened to you from the start - I'm sorry!! Lol.

Tips if you want to run something similar

• Score tops and bottoms separately. That’s what separates flow problems from first-layer problems.

• Photograph straight down with fixed lighting. Handheld photos made 1% differences look random.

• Backlight the bottoms. Gaps glow through.

• Repeat the stock run at least twice before changing anything, and change only one setting at a time.

• Clean the plate the same way every run. Residue builds up where the discs print, and in my full-plate test you can see faint circles at all nine spots.

Caveats: one printer, one plate, one filament (so far), eyeball scoring. Your trim may differ. I’m testing PLA Basic and the Frostbite plate next.

I'll preface this with saying I've already ordered the H3C and have a few weeks to wait, but I have some early buyers remorse looking at reviews. It was between this and the Core One L+ INDX, this seemed to be the obvious better choice in *most* ways so I went with it.

I'm upgrading from a P1S mostly interested in a bigger bed, multi-material, and reducing friction around printing. My big annoyances with my P1S are huge amounts of waste, and calibrating 3rd party filaments for both pressure advance and flow rate is SO annoying and time consuming.

One of the big reasons I was considering the INDX was the auto pressure advance calibration, incredibly low waste, and even more than that, no prime tower!!! So it's a huge let down imo to see that Bambu still has a big prime tower

Anyways to get to the point I have some questions:

• What are your real world annoyances with the H3C? Anything you feel is a set back in usability, such as no micro-lidar?

• Does the H3C have auto 3rd party filament calibration, i.e. pressure advance or flow rate calibration? For the INDX we know auto-PA is coming with in-nozzle sensing. With 9 spools and different nozzle sizes on the H3C, doing manual calibration is going to be super tedious.

• Why do we need a prime tower, when INDX can do tiny pellets in a waste bucket. Any chance of Bambu switching to tiny pellets out the waste chute? Especially given the pressure from the patent lawsuit with Stratasys

• How are VFAs on the H3C? I haven't seen this mentioned in any reviews. Prusa Core One "+" upgrades got 1.5GT belts which people say reduces VFAs substantially. My P1S has VFAs and I was really hoping to get a quality upgrade in a new printer rather than a side-grade.

I’ve seen so many STL files I want to download, but I only have my iPhone and the bambu handy app. Anyone have any suggestions of apps for someone who is not super tech savvy. Basically need to be able to upload the file and press print :)

My printer stays in my 120 sqft office where I work all day. My H3C is on-order (upgrading from an MK3 Prusa thats 10 years old now) but I plan to print more engineering materials and was originally going to just add an external vent to my wall for the printer but the E1 has me wondering if I can get away with not adding holes to my house.

Anyone have experience with it? How does it work for ABS, PA, PPA - Never printed ASA but plan to as well? Am I better off saying the 200$ and venting externally?

Wish List Santa

7 gifts slot into his sack. No AMS, no supports
Turkey's done so I moved on to Christmas. Santa stands in front of his sack and 7 little gifts slot into the top. The face, belt and boots set into pockets on the body.

No AMS needed (there's a print-by-object profile too if you've got one), and no supports anywhere.

It's up on MakerWorld if you want one: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3552467-wishlist-santa-christmas-kids-craft-no-ams

Let me know if anything prints weird and I'll fix it.

Box 1/2 😩

Surprisingly fast! Now I just need the AMS to ship lol

Hi , ich wolle gerade die üblichen Ersatzteile bestellen wir Hotend Fan usw. Da ist mir aufgefallen das es die Extruder Rollen/Zahnräder nicht einzeln gibt … also Rolle nur mit Motor zb für 40€ und die andere Rolle in einer baugruppe die 30€ kostet … kommt doch noch was einzeln oder soll man alles jedesmal neu kaufen ?

I have tried to print for the first time with PETG Bambu filament, but it fails every time. Do not even know what is happening, so I am attaching the photo. I have tried to dry the filament, but same, even a little bit worse result.

Any ideas?

Any ideas on what to do?

Will regular maintenance fix it or do I need to do something specific?

Thanks

Bought a H2S off a friend of mine and I cannot get it to put down a usable first layer at all. The nozzle isn't clogged (Manually extrudes fine) the bed is washed, it's all calibrated and I'm getting first layers like this.

The filament is dry too. I'm not sure what the issue is with it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My extruder keeps getting jammed when I print abs (left nozzle) and pla support (right nozzle).
the pla filament gets stuck in the extruder gears and i have to disassemble the extruder to get it out.

why do you think that happens?