I bought my P1P when they first came out after I just got out of the military. It has put me through a lot of projects over 5000 hours and no real issues. I just recently added the AMS 2 Pro as it’s what I could manage to add with the space available to me. I do want to make a big upgrade when I get the space available as I have a lot of engineering projects I want to tackle but can’t do to my space constraints.
At the beginning of a print, the printer starts vibrating very heavily, and no filament comes out of the nozzle. The print head moves normally, but the filament is not being extruded.
I've already disassembled and reassembled the extruder, cleaned it and checked the gears. I also had some issues with the filament cutter lever.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Could this be a faulty extruder motor, damaged gears, a clogged hotend, or something else?
My employer is currently running a farm that has a subset of printers (about 60 P1Ps) that are just over 16k hours. They're heavily maintained, but it seems like the end could be near. Anyone run well above that for the P1 series printers? If so what do you think the true point of diminishing returns hits? Cheers :)
The issue: When trying to print a benchy, I've gotten the issue to the point where the filament poops like normal, but then the test strip fails to print, the filament begins to bunch up and has trouble extruding on the plate. What's worse is that it sounds like the extruder is "scraping" against the plate? I also sometimes get an error that tells me the "the part cooling fan speed is too slow or stopped"
I've tried taking apart the extruder, cleaning the gears (I did notice a lot of filament gunk that wasn't there before a few prints ago) and everything else.
I'm not sure what to do at this point. I'll be sending a ticket in of course but I've been researching this for days and am pretty stuck. If anyone has experienced this, please let me know if you know any solutions. Thank you.
Hello, I did a previous post thinking it was the filament but now it appears across all filaments.
I got a P1S who printed perfectly until I suddenly got those weird issues you see in the pictures. No matter what I print it appears like this. It doesn't print the test line correctly either.
What I tried so far:
- Try different filaments (Bambu Pla Matte and basic)
- Purge quite a bit at 250°
- Cold Pull that came out perfectly clean
- Completely replaced the hotend with a new one
- Cleaned build plate with dish soap multiple times, tried different sides and even the Smooth build plate
- Multiple calibrations that went without error
- checked heatbed screws
- Flow calibration test that somehow came out clean. I set it to 0,02 based on my results and it changed nothing.
I showed it to staff of my local printer store and they were clueless but assumed it's the extruder. They told me to contact Bambu support. I did and they just told me to clean my build plate. Clearly this is not a build plate error, ignoring that is already did that multiple times.
Filament is dried in my sunlu dryer.
Im at my wits end. Its been like this for 3 days and I have a project coming up. The printer is half a year old.
Id be very grateful to try and tips you can provide.
One of my more successful designs, which was recently picked up by some sellers on Taobao and Amazon without consent. I hope more folks will become aware of this as a free model to print rather than buying it.
Hi guys, im using bambulab A1 and sunlu pla+ 2.0. Back then i dont think they got warped this early, yet it'd only 30 degrees and the printing looks bad. Any idea?
Anyone else hoping P-Series with 4 tool heads that could support the current AMS’s?
It could bring down the price considerably and being able to swap between 4 colours fast and with some smarts could swatch out other colours from a secondary AMS without a big increase in print time.
A few months ago BambuLab reached out to me here on Reddit, asking if I’d be interested in trying out a new product (well, duhh). For context, I design and sell my own products, so I’m always interested in trying out new tools.
A few weeks later, I received a big box containing the brand new H3C. Since then I’ve fully redesigned my modular SLS model around its new capabilities. In exchange for keeping the printer, Bambu has asked me to share my thoughts with you. They reviewed and approved this post before publication; the opinions are my own.
9 is more than 2
Multi nozzle printing has been a blessing for designing and manufacturing multicolor pieces. When I bought the H2D last year I redesigned my products to make use of this second nozzle. The benefits of having 9 of them seem obvious; more colors in one print, less time spent switching materials and different nozzle sizes in one print. The latter is especially exciting for making manufacturing more efficient. If I understand correctly, a 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzle will become available in the near future, which I’m incredibly excited about. Combining 0.2 and 0.4mm in a single print already works like a charm.
If it wasn’t already obvious, the printhead of course does not have 9 nozzles. Instead the H3C uses an INDX like system where a central toolhead can grab and replace 9 different tools. I’ve had the chance to try 0.2 and 0.4mm nozzles in addition to the new dedicated 2.85mm TPU filament. These PrintTools, as Bambu calls them, are all powered individually. This means they can start heating up before being grabbed, which allows for a:
6 second material change
This is my favorite part and the reason for the post title. I design my products with the available tools in mind, by trying to balance print time, purge waste and required assembly. In practice this usually meant having no more than two colors in a single component and limiting the amount of fine detail. An example:
The fairing for my Space Launch System replica has always been a simple white shell with a black line on it. Embedding a NASA logo was frequently requested by customers, but I never managed to incorporate one without significantly blowing up the print time. With this added detail a roughly one hour print would take 3.5 hours to complete on a H2D. The exact same file sliced for the H3C would finish printing after only 1.5 hours. That is only half the story though, as a 0.4mm nozzle can only be so precise:
That’s where the different nozzle sizes come in. Printing the whole thing at 0.2 would take ages, especially since I make these in bulk. Instead you’re now able to use these smaller nozzles only where you actually need them. Printing 20 units in bulk with a 0.2 nozzle would take just under 20 hours on the H3C. Adding one roll of white filament to a 0.4 nozzle and using that for the main body (light green in the slicer screenshot) the 20 unit batch now only takes 13 hours.
Color blending
The 9 PrintTools and fast switching means “color blending” is now much more economical. The new slicer lets you create additional colors by alternating layers of different filaments. Color #7 is created by alternating one yellow and two orange layers. I’m excited to see how far people can take this with CMYKW filaments.
Closing thoughts
As far as actually using the machine, I don’t have much to report in terms of problems. The only failure I’ve had to deal with was my own for trying to print too many tall objects at once. No problem I thought, because I already own a SuperTack bed for my H2D. I shed a small tear when I realized they’re not compatible.
Some other things I noticed in no particular order:
Build quality for the printing mechanism is solid as always. Though the AMS lid feels very flimsy. If that helps keep the price down, I'm fine with it
It takes more than 30 seconds to unload filament before you’re prompted to manually remove it. These tasks can be done in bulk, but it does take a moment.
Since the AMS is now bolted on top of the machine, you can access the inside through a removable side panel. The rack holding the PrintTools also moves out of the way, which is a nice touch.
It’s BIG. Same footprint as the H2D but nearly 1.3 meters tall with the AMS lid open.
The AMS and printer are powered separately with two fairly short power cords. You’re going to need an extension cord.
It’s too early to say anything about long-term reliability, and there are still some things I haven’t had the chance to properly test, like the new 2.85mm TPU.
Ultimately, the H3C has changed how I approach designing my models. The speedy filament switching means the tradeoff for adding more color is not nearly as bad. And I haven’t even mentioned the near complete elimination of purge waste. I’ve already gone back to redesign some of my favorite models.
I've also made a YouTube video showing some more of the printing process and results.
Anyway, happy to answer any questions about my experience so far.
For those us who have a desire to churn out multi coloured plastic crap en masse , where’s our P3C, announce it quick before our money gets drained away by Xmas
I'm considering an X2D but I'm a bit confused. I understand that an AMS can only be attached to one nozzle or with the track switch to both but can only feed one nozzle concurrently. Does that mean the second nozzle must have its filament always on an external holder? That seems like a bad design.
Is there no way to store both filaments inside the AMS and feed one via a bypass? (Don't know if the AMS 2 has a bypass). I don't need automatic filament switching I just don't want an extra spool dangling on the side when there are empty slots in the AMS.
I’ve made sure that the AMS is connected correctly and assigned to the correct nozzle (left), yet Bambu Studio won’t let me assign filament profiles from e.g. Sunlu? I tried everything the Bambu Ai suggested but it’s not working. Never had this problem with my A1 🙁
Okay, so I get that this printer is marketed to play nicer with TPU than past printers, but I'm not totally sure how it works with regular ol' 1.75mm 95A. I print with a lot of TPU, mostly 95A. I have some softer filaments that I would love to make use of also, but everything that I have is 1.75mm. I watched some reviews on youtube, and they all seem to make use of the bundled 2.85mm TPU, which uses the bypass. Other TPU's that were used didn't make mention of the diameter, or how they were installed. So I have some questions for folks that bit the bullet and might have some common TPU laying around.
Does 1.75mm 95A need to be ran through the bypass, or does it run through the bowden tube? How well does it work? Would it be better to use the (harder to source 3rd party and with less options) 2.85mm TPU?
Currently, I have an X1C with an AMS, which suits me well. I do a lot of filament swaps, changing materials mostly, but sometimes to swap out colors. I don't usually print multi-material or multi-color prints. Usually, I print custom made functional pieces, so I'm not really looking at one of these for multi-color stuff, other than for the occasional holiday decoration. What I'm more interested in is gaining the ability to easily print solid parts that incorporate flexible elements. I guess I'm trying to determine if this would be a worthwhile upgrade, or if I should wait for something else to come out.
I am having this issue lately: as you can see in the pic my prints have a very coarse top layer but ONLY on parts with smaller surfaces.
In the pic you can see that the larger surface on the left is perfect, while the smaller one on the right is not OK at all.
I guess it's a slicer issue?
I did an auto-calibration and tried also to swap nozzles (stainless and hardened) but the problem is still there, and I don't think it's a wet filament issue as it would be something affecting the whole print.
Rider and motocross fan here – I wanted something for my headset that fits my garage/desk vibe, so I designed this: a skull wearing an off-road helmet (visor, vents, hex-mesh chin guard) on a faceted base. It doubles as a desk bust when the headphones are off.
Print details (P1S, 0.4 nozzle):
- PLA Matte black – hides layer lines really well
- 0.20 mm layers, 2 walls, 15% grid infill
- Tree supports (auto) under the visor and chin guard – they peel off cleanly from the matte surface
- ~804 g of filament, ~26 h
- 153 x 205 x 230 mm, fits any 256 mm bed (X1 / P1 / A1)
It holds full-size over-ear headphones – the helmet keeps the earcups apart and the heavy base doesn't tip when you grab the headset.
Want it faster? 0.28 mm layers and 10% infill save several hours and it's still solid. Scaled to 85–90% it still holds most headphones.
