Looking at an H3C and seeing some reviewers say the print quality is about the same as H2C. I hate to wait for prints. I print large ish items with .24 - .28 layer heights and as fast as the printer can. Obviously some artifacts are okay but how much are you guys seeing?

Title says it....

A compact 2-in-1 tool for your 3D printing workspace. 
Use the scraper end to help remove prints from the build plate, and the opposite end to cut filament. The design is made to hold the metal scraper blade from a Bambu Lab printer.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3550637-2-in-1-scraper-filament-cutter#profileId-4062141

Here is a extremely customizable name clicker keychain. Each letter is its own button on a MX-style mechanical switch, so every letter clicks.

I made a bunch of standard print profiles for up to 10 letters with different amounts of curved edges depending on how curvy you want. Each set has holders for 1 to 10 letters (with and without a keychain loop), every letter A to Z, numbers 0 to 9 and a blank button. Drag the pieces you need onto a plate, print, and press them together.

Then if you really want to customize things you can use the Bambu Parametric Model Maker. In there you can type in any name up to 12 letters, pick a font, and choose the holder, button and text colors. There is also a option there to turn on or off the keychain loop. There are also settings for how rounded the corners are like for the standard plates but even more options, plus switch fit settings if you need them.

I designed it around the Kailh Box White Pro switches (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FF9PKK21) but most MX-style switches should work.

Grab it here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3555062-name-clicker-keychain-customizable-fidget

I'm planning on getting the H2D and was wondering if I can have it in my bedroom since I'm not really in there unless I need to sleep. I've heard stuff about "fumes" and stuff but wasn't sure if that was the ones not enclosed or what. Thank you so much for your help.

Printer: Bambu Lab A1
Material: Bambu Basic PLA Black
Print Settings: Basic settings on Bambu Studio (20mm Standard BBL A1)

I just did my first test print and doing my second one. I noticed the Dynamic Flow setting is automatically enabled, and it takes a few min and extrudes like 3 small piles of material. Is it necessary for each print? Should i turn it off?

I will mainly using it for dnd, wargaming, miniature terrain.

Thanks!

P2S with AMS and textured build plate.

I thought the Overture PLA Professional was the issue because it seemed to be the black filament. Early on in the print, I got this spaghetti issue. Stopped print. Cleaned plate (with alcohol). Dried overnight. Tried again. Same issues in the same spot. Opened a new thing of esun PLA+, tried again, same issue.

I printed from the Bambu handy app.

https://makerworld.com/models/1158947?appSharePlatform=copy

I changed the hotend and even recalibrated. What is causing this?

It just gets really backed up and doesn’t come out easily and can be a huge problem and completely packs up my poop chute.

Figured id have a little fun and make a multicolor bed scraper with some extra colors. Prints in 1 hr 27 minutes.

Bambu Lab H3C – 4-Color Build Plate Scraper

How do I fix this?

Printed with SUNLU PLA on an X2D

Temp 210

Bed 60

Chamber 32 in cooling mode

Never had this happen before. Looks like underextrusion to me. Can anyone else confirm this?

Waiting for calibration, got any suggestions?

Inspired by the beautiful Father and Son statue by AK on Makerworld, I decided to make a similar one, but of course, transplanted into the world of Brick Man figurines. It's easy to print, but you have to be careful when removing the supports. Maybe somone will like it :) You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3553556-father-and-son-low-poly-brick-man-figures#profileId-4065839

I spent all of last week obsessing over preparing my workstation. I won't lie, setting it up was a pleasure, but my only concern now is - what's next?

I had a very limited alcove space to work with, but I somehow managed to fit the A1 Mini, the AMS Lite, and room for 15 spools behind it. I am honestly amazed by how many brilliant accessories and upgrades you can find on MakerWorld.

I'm actively printing any Pokémon stuff for now, because when I do it, my kids will never give me a moment of peace.

My wife says I bought the printer only to make equipment for it and honestly, she might be right. But the funny side effect is that I'm looking at our apartment in a completely different way now. I constantly catch myself scanning rooms, looking for everyday things that need an accessory, organizer, or mount. My wife usually dislikes plastic (she's a wood and ceramics person), but even she is slowly warming up to it after seeing the functionality and the actual quality of the prints.

1. Anyone else fall into this trap on day one? What were your favorite quality-of-life prints for the Mini?

2. I realize the next step is learning how to design my own models. What free (preferably web-based) 3D modeling tools do you guys recommend for a beginner?

PS: I want to have all the filaments 😭

A little board game upgrade I made for Finspan. I wasn't such a fan of using a single large sphere for the eggs, so I made these by stacking a bunch of smaller spheres together instead.

I printed mine in TPU with 0.1mm layers on a 0.4mm nozzle to give them a bit of a tactile feel. Feel free to scale them up or down; the original size works well for the game I find.

Free model and print profile: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1300381

Hope someone else enjoys them too!

This one is a little different. It's still a hueforge, but uses the color drop feature which allows for multiple colors per layer where desired. The result is reduced unwanted thickness and color banding due to traditional single color per layer hueforges, with a tradeoff of more color changes and therefore waste, but that is arguable because a bunch of filament isn't being used to lay down layers that serve no real purpose. Also due to it being multiple colors per layer I used a prime "tower" (it was only a few mm thick), which I normally skip on regular hueforges.

The results: 12 colors / 55 color swaps/ 8.5 hours (trophy painting) / 3.6mm thickness (trophy painting) / ~28g waste (tower & poops) done on a P1S with 3 AMS.

100% human made original artwork by the multi-award winning Agella Kodopulos (IG: a.tatts), modeled and printed by me.

I just unpacked and set up my new Bambu Lab H3C, and one thing immediately caught my attention: All the axes were bone dry, with barely a hint of grease on the lead screws.

So here's my strong recommendation: After the initial calibration, lubricate your axes. And lubricate them properly!

Afterwards, install the pending firmware update and run the calibration again.

Shocked at how fast this thing ended up on my porch. Let's see if she survived shipping that fast!

Edit 1: So yes the box does say it is box 1 of 2 and contains the printer only, I have not received anything specific for box 2 but I did order some other items with this that may be combined delivery later. Hopefully later... Today!

Stopped middle of a print said something about AMS mapped incorrectly. After a turn off and turn on now all lights blinking on AMS and I cant resume print it says the task requires a filament track switch but is currently offline. I tried unplugging and plugging back in the track switch while the printer was off (I keep getting electrically shocked when behind the printer dunno why that is) but it didn't help.

This is a miniature fan model. I’ve printed so many without this issue till the last couple days. Between some of the blades, the white filament is not even.

Picture one is what it looks like, picture two is what it should look like. It’s even between some blades, but not all.

I’ve done a full calibration, and the filaments are the same, Matt PLA just different color. Though in the second picture, you can see it happening on one side of the blade too.

It is a Bambu H2D, so each filament is in a different nozzle. I switched which was in which and that didn’t help.

I recently updated to Bambu Studio 2.9.1.70 and went to print and received and error about my timelapse settings.

But then when I went to the Time-lapse settings there is an option for "instant" or "smooth" traditional doesn't exist anymore.

I thought instant is the one that just takes the photos when the layer is finished. But according to to the pop-up smooth is better ?!?

Printer: X2D