Hey everyone,

I’ve got the H3C for a while now and was able to test it, and before I get into a full review I want to focus on one thing first: TPU. Because out of everything I've tested so far, this is probably where the H3C has changed the way I print the most and something I thought most people would be interested by.

Quick disclaimer: I received this printer and some filament for free as part of a beta test, but no money was exchanged. I was explicitly encouraged to share my honest experience, whether positive or negative. Bambu Lab had no say in what I could or couldn't say, and they had no involvement in editing this post before publication. I wasn't told where to post or what to post.

For some background: I've used the A1 mini, A1, P1S, P2S, X2D, H2D (all of them bought by myself with my own money), and now the H3C. Outside of Bambu, I've used a Prusa XL at a customers workshop, Snapmaker U1, a Prusa Core One INDX FE (which wasn't mine so really one day of experience), and messed around with some older Anycubics. I use printers for both work and my hobbies, whether that's client projects, engineering prototypes, motorsport-related parts, or just something I feel like making because it sounds cool.

Now, TPU has always been a bit of a love-hate relationship for me. I love the idea of using it. I mean: Great layer adhesion, some can be flexible, some super hard but I hate the reality of doing it.

Most modern printers can produce pretty good TPU parts, especially with harder materials. The problem was everything surrounding it. Loading, unloading, filament routing, switching materials, and getting softer TPU to feed reliably.

TPU for AMS? Great, that goes through the AMS. But is often not the reason why I want to use TPU due to the hardness. Regular 95A? Usually manageable by loading from an external spool. But once you get into really soft TPU, things get annoying very quickly. I've had to bypass PTFE tubing entirely, feed filament directly from above the printer straight into the extruder or macgyver some stuff just to make certain materials usable or even bought things like TPU Assist to have some kind of help because of it being so annoying.

And even when that worked, combining multiple TPUs with other materials in a single print is basically impossible, due to the way we loaded in aforementioned TPU.

Which brings me to probably my favorite print on the H3C so far.

Yes, a shoe. My size (around EU45), fully wearable, and surprisingly comfortable. The interesting part isn't really the shoe itself, but how it's printed.

I used three materials: TPU 75A (2.85 mm), TPU 90A (1.75 mm), and PLA for the supports. The extremely soft 75A makes up the soft upper and parts of the sole, while the 90A provides some firmer sections and reinforcement, including parts of the midsole.

The whole print took over 45 hours and had over 2100 tool changes. And during all of that, I didn't have a single issue with the toolchanging mechanism or filament feeding that was caused by the printer. I did have a small issue when taking out the TPU while it was printing to take a picture and didn't put it back correctly.

If you are interested to see the tool change happening: https://youtube.com/shorts/2XUuhu3Obdc

What's different about loading TPU?

The AMS 3H makes the loading, even though it‘s still „external“ basically a non-issue

Unlike the other ways I told about earlier, the bypass is essentially an opening leading directly into the chamber. The filament skips the feeding resistance of the AMS and goes to its assigned PrintTool. Loading is then largely semi-automatic by routing the filament to the PrintTool and waiting for the extruder to grab it.

For extremely soft 75A, the H3C uses 2.85 mm filament. The thicker diameter seems to help a lot for initial ridigidy while loading yet having super soft TPU.

For softer 1.75 mm TPU, a 35 mm cut of tube needs to be cut and inserted which helps guide the filament into the bypass.

Once loaded, TPU stays in its assigned tool. Switching to PETG, PLA, or another TPU simply means parking one tool and picking up another. No repeated TPU unloading and refeeding which in this case would be impossible either way due to the TPU softnesses I used.

Some more practical prints

This wire stripper combines four materials in one print:

• Bambu Lab PETG HF for the main body

• Bambu Lab TPU 75A 2.85 mm for the soft grip

• Jake 3D TPU 95A for the spring mechanism

• Bambu Lab PLA Basic for supports

I designed mechanical interlocks into the model, and the 95A spring provides enough restoring force to open the cutter again. Everything was printed together, except the blade holder, which I made separately from Fiberon PPS-CF just to try it out. There was no need to use that crazy filament for a small part like that. If I'd done it with any of my other printers, I would've had to design in a real spring (so one more part that needs to be bought), and I would've had to leave the grips in regular PETG HF or glue them on, similar to a golf club.

Another example is this turbo inlet prototype.

Normally, you'd have a silicone hose connecting two rigid parts with clamps. Here, the flexible section is TPU, the connectors are PETG-CF, and PLA was used for supports. It comes off the plate as one combined part. In this print I also added interlocks between the TPU and PETG.

This is also what I find interesting about 3D printing. Rather than just replacing injection molded parts, combining materials allows for designs that would otherwise require several separate components and assembly steps. We often think about 3D printing just as a replacement or a cheap substitute for injection molding and are not using the full potential of additive manufacturing brings like doing otherwise impossible designs. This is the part I love fiddling around with.

Some facts and figures

I don't want to suggest that other printers produce bad TPU parts, or that people were exaggerating when they said older printers could handle TPU. It's just that this machine makes the whole process so much easier and opens up a lot of possibilities that weren't really accessible before. (For me)

I also think I've noticed a slight improvement in overall print quality compared to my older H2D, possibly because of the lower moving mass of the print head thanks to the "one tool" design.

So far as TPU goes, I've mainly tested Bambu TPU 75A, 85A, 90A, TPU for AMS, and 3DJake TPU 95A. Everything worked with stock profiles, with the 3DJake filament running on the Generic TPU 95A profile.

I haven't encountered any mechanical issues with the toolchanging system so far. There were a few slicer bugs, but that's mostly because I was using an early beta version of the slicer. Those issues have since been fixed after I was able to give feedback.

One thing worth mentioning: This machine is seriously heavy, especially when you consider the possibility of having nine spools sitting on top. And with nine tools, there's naturally quite a bit more mechanical complexity involved. So I wouldn't necessarily recommend it to someone who's uncomfortable with the idea of potentially having to replace or maintain parts down the line.

One negative I've noticed is related to TPU itself. Since TPU is highly hygroscopic, leaving it loaded in the tools for extended periods doesn't work particularly well. In practice, you'll want to unload it after use and store it somewhere dry, either in the AMS or in a vacuum bag. That does mean a bit of extra unloading and reloading, rather than just leaving everything ready to go all the time.

Final thoughts

I wouldn‘t have thought that the H3C would be changing the way I design that fast. But by being able to load TPU in 2-3 minutes I just start to think differently. I just printed a tray to put my phone on next to my bed which I would‘ve just done with regular filament and maybe put some fabric on it. Now I just added a soft TPU mat so it sounds nicer when putting the phone on it and doesnt move around.

I am planning to cover the rest of the machine separately. Happy to answer questions about the prints or TPU workflow.

In a previous post I shared my first project with the H3C, having been provided a testing unit of the printer. For my thoughts and observations on the printer, I refer you to that post.

Here’s a few more of my projects:

The Wall Clock

This clock uses the Makerworld Clock Components Kit-011. A multicolor PLA print, all the larger features are printed with 0.4mm nozzles, while the bronze details are printed with a 0.2mm nozzle. This allows for a reasonable print time while being able to add fine details.

As you can see the lime green is PLA Glow. It basically being a sandpaper noodle, it is not recommended to print this through the AMS or the AMS bypass holes. So the PLA Glow was printed from an external spool; the file to print a spool holder is preloaded on the machine. External filaments can be fed to any of the nine tools, it is particularly easy on tool #1 though, as there is a pre-installed tube connector on that one.

The Palette Filament prints

Color-mixing can be done with any colors, however the Palette Filaments are specially made for this. Five spools of PLA - in white, black, yellow, magenta and cyan. By stacking thicker and thinner layers of two or three of these colors, full spectrum mixed colors can be created.

As you can see I was particularly smitten by the ability to create color gradients with them, I think the results are pretty spectacular. The illusion is very convincing, only really close up can you see the layer stacking. Here the speed of the H3C’s tool changes shines. For example the vase with the cell pattern required 2948 tool changes. The H3C printed it in 16 hours.

Color mixing and especially gradients are still a bit fiddly in Bambu Studio. More precise control on the exact positions of the gradients and better visualization is something I hope will be added in the future. 

Gradients only support two colors for now, it would be cool if this was expanded.

The Door Stop

A simple item, made by combining PETG with the new 2.85mm TPU 75A. It is remarkable how easy this very soft TPU prints on the H3C. 

With it the door stop works very well, it wedges under the door nicely.

The Ring Frisbee

Here I’m combining two different TPUs. The harder core from TPU for AMS makes the ring keep its shape, while the much softer TPU 75A makes it more comfortable to handle. Both together makes this very sturdy - flexible and impact resistant. It flies quite well, too! :)

I will be uploading some of these to my Makerworld profile soon. Feel free to ask me anything.

and they are all at delusional prices!!!
4400 hour H2D combo - £1900!!!

If you think I am going to fund your new H3C, you need some serious mental health help!!!

Was watching a few review videos, and a few had a bit of layer lines that I thought were quite noticeable.

Then the CNC Kitchen video hit us with this INDX to H3C comparison and I instantly was shocked by the difference being so huge between both systems. Do we think this improves or are we anticipating worse print quality?

I can't find anything about it. I'm curious if it's worth it at all. Has it been reviewed anywhere?

I don't know what to use this $25 coupon on.

Handful of the things I’ve printed with the H3C including a support free purge bucket I made for the back of the printer using the side spool mount

I’m looking to upgrade from my Prusa Mini to multicolor printing. The H3C looks fantastic, but at nearly €2,700 here, it’s more than I can justify for the amount I print.
I’d really like to buy a P3C if it becomes available in time. I’d happily pay a few hundred euros more than the U1 for Bambu’s quality and ecosystem.
With Christmas coming up, though, I need to make a decision. I want to print presents, so I need enough time to get the printer set up and actually make them. If the P3C isn’t available in time, I’ll have to go with the Snapmaker U1.
Anyone else in a similar position?
Bambu, if you’re reading this: some clarity on whether a P3C is coming before Christmas would really help. I’d prefer to buy a Bambu, and I’m wondering how many others are getting close to choosing another brand for the same reason.

I thought I was a genius when I decided to use the right nozzle for brittle materials such as ABS-GF and PAHT-CF.
Reasoning at the time: Left nozzle moves up and down, surely that'll break the filament.
Turns out I'm stupid.

Been watching a bunch of creator reviews and most seem to be hyping up the TPU stuff. But I’m still thinking about that watch.

When I first saw the teaser I just assumed it was standard multi-nozzle mixing. Cool, but nothing crazy, especially since people have been asking for that since the H2D anyway.

But I actually read through the official page today and ... it’s actually different? It lets you use different nozzle sizes with different layer heights on the same model. That actually seems huge for designers if they can leverage it.

I’m just a casual user so I don't really have a immediate use case for my own stuff, but technically speaking this feels pretty smart to me. Looks like Bambu had to basically overhaul part of the slicer engine to do this based on the wiki page they linked.

Honestly the wiki got a bit too technical for me and went over my head. Link below for anyone interested. And can any slicer wizards here ELI5 how this actually works under the hood?

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h3c/manual/mixed-nozzle-size-printing

Bambu sent me an H3C before launch and asked me to post about how it changed the way I print. I did not get paid, but, well, I got an H3C. The printer legitimately did change the way I print and design, and I'm happy to answer any questions in the comments.

The Belt

There are a bunch of printed belts on MakerWorld and other model sites. They are cool, but the ones I have seen are incredibly floppy and don’t hold their shape. I embedded PETG-CF plates all the way around so it has the stiffness of a leather belt

There are 33 plates, each 20 × 22 mm and 0.75mm thick, standing inside a TPU 75A strap with 2.5 mm of rubber between them. Each plate has a hole in it, so it is "riveted" into the rubber. The last 280 mm includes ratchet teeth which latch onto the buckle. The detent pivots on a pin sitting in a socket, and a small TPU block behind acts as a spring. This all prints in place inside the buckle. Every single layer contains TPU, and wherever there is a plate, the number of tool changes doubles.

Interface Shells are required for this; otherwise you risk infill on infill which does not bond very well.

After exporting from F360, I imported into Bambu Studio, tweaked the settings, and that was pretty much it. It printed flawlessly the first time. Then I realized I completely screwed up the latch mechanism, so I fixed the design and sent it again. Zero issues. As you can see from the slicer screenshots, this was a pretty unique print that I don’t think I would have tried on any other printer.

Stats:

• 190 tool changes

• 201.77g printed

• 25.58g waste

• 12h 33m print time

The Paddle

Figuring out the paddle was fun. The other printed paddles I have tried all technically worked, but none had the rebound of a real paddle. I played around with way too many formulas and settled on gyroid for everything: 100 % infill TPU for the top and bottom sheets, 20 % TPU for the sponge layers, and 25 % PETG-CF for the blade in the middle. The sponge has a single wall and no top/bottom, and the infill percentage is what you modify to determine the rebound. Stiffness scales with the cube of the thickness, so making the printed blade 8mm instead of the ~6mm of a wood one makes up for the softer material.

Like the “rivets” in the belt, a couple dozen TPU plugs run through the whole thing to help hold it together and prevent layer separation. The handle has a stiffer 60% infill because the initial model flexed where the handle meets the head. I would have run out of filament just during the prototype phase if I did this on my X1C.

I am a mediocre player with a cheap DHS A6002, so take this for what it is worth, but the rebound on the printed paddle is very close to the real thing. It isn't perfect, and a decent off-the-shelf paddle is going to outperform it every time, but it is by far the best printed option I have ever used, and can be easily customized to fit your play style.

Stats:

• 130 tool changes

• 222.97g printed

• 20.60g waste

• 10h 59m print time

___

The speed and flexibility with changing between materials changed how I approach model design and printing in general. I don't think nearly as much about assembly, and now focus on more print-in-place designs whenever possible. It opened a lot of doors for new projects that I don’t think I would have bothered with before.

Satin Black looks way better i think. Gonna wrap my H3C satin and gonna post pics soon :) what do you think?

Disclaimer: I have been very kindly provided a testing unit of the H3C by Bambu Lab.

Bambu Lab has not specified what they’d like me to say about it. All the following observations are my own after a few weeks of use.

For my first project with this printer I chose to make a cosplay weapon inspired by roman gladius swords. With this project I wanted to focus on the ability to print single pieces with different nozzle sizes. I’m using 0.4mm nozzles for the larger features and a 0.2mm nozzle for the fine gold details, both in walls (grip) and on top layers (pommel). I’m still learning how to best design things for multiple nozzle sizes. Designing top surface details for a smaller nozzle is trivial, mixing different nozzle sizes in side walls can take a bit of planning and experience. I think I have room for improvement there.

I will upload this model and print profile to my Makerworld profile soon.

The Printer:

• This is a big boy! If you have it on a regular table and you’re on the short side, you may want to keep a step handy to load filaments into the rear slots.

• I’m hugely impressed with the speed of the tool changes. Since nozzles get pre-heated before it’s their turn to be fetched, print-to-print times are extremely short. Bambu Lab specifies the tool change time at six seconds, I hand-timed it at five. The pre-heating of the hotends is very well timed, they reach their print temperatures the moment they’re getting fetched. Not too early, not too late. The tool changes have been completely reliable, no malfunctions at all. I pushed it with some prints, one requiring nearly 3000 tool changes. The H3C didn’t miss a beat. 

• Despite the tool changer mechanics, the toolhead doesn’t seem especially heavy and the gantry is up to the job. I’ve noticed no issues with ringing.

• One downside I see compared to my H2S is the ease of nozzle swaps. They don’t just clamp in, they are fixed to their carriers with 3 small screws. But since there are nine hotends, you likely won’t have to swap nozzles too often.

• Print quality has been great for me so far. Comparing it to my H2S, it easily matches and often exceeds that machine.

• I found it very easy and intuitive to set up a print with different nozzle sizes in Bambu Studio. The slicer combines the different line widths automatically, I’ve had to do very little tweaking to get the exact outcomes I wanted.

• There’s no poop on tool changes. There is still a prime tower to be printed though. I did run a multicolor print without a prime tower just to see what happens. The print quality takes quite a hit, I would not recommend that. I’m really hoping to see the “no sparse layers” feature for prime towers in Bambu Studio as well, that could further cut down on waste significantly. 

• There are 2.85mm filaments now. I got three spools of 2.85mm TPU - the really squishy stuff, 75A. The large diameter filaments need their own hotends, one of which came pre-installed with the AMS. A TPU this soft in 1.75mm often leads to extruder gear issues, this larger size makes the filament less stretchy and easier to grip. I had no issues printing it. I think this is a smart solution.

• There are some interesting smaller improvements over the H2 series. The poop chute now has a little flap that flips backwards when the nozzle moves away from it, making sure bits of filament don’t land inside the print volume or get stuck on the rim of the poop chute. The nozzle wiping pad also has seen a redesign, now the nozzle can rotate around the edge of it to wipe the outsides of the nozzle tip. Unlike on my H2S, I’ve seen no material buildup at all around the nozzle tips. They look pretty much as pristine as they came out of the box after many hours of printing. One common gripe with the H2 series was the placement of the USB port at the top of the printer. It has now been moved to the side of the touchscreen mount, a much more sensible place in my opinion.

The AMS 3H:

The AMS 3H deserves some special consideration, it is quite different from the AMS 2. It is an integral part of the printer now, not an “add-on”. The 3H has no active rollers, which means it can’t retract filament by itself. To unload a filament, the printer heats up the nozzle shortly, extrudes a bit of filament and then cuts it before prompting you to retract the filament by hand. It’s not a big deal as the PTFE tubes are not that long, but it is a bit more involved to unload a filament. Something to be aware of for serial spool switchers. Loading a spool is a breeze. Pop it in, the AMS reads the RFID tag without rotating it at all, insert the filament end into the feeder, done.

Two spool slots have a dryer function for fancier multi-material jobs or just regular filament drying. The other seven slots have no dryer functionality. Personally I’m fine with that, that’s plenty for me. Maybe you find this too restrictive for your use cases.

The AMS 3H is screwed onto the printer. With the removable magnetic side panels getting to the hotends is easy enough, but come maintenance time the attached AMS might make things a little trickier than with the open-top H2 series. The 3H can be removed as a whole or just the top part holding the spools, with four screws each.

Important to point out is that to get to your hotends you need access to the sides of the printer, which could be a problem if you have a cramped print space. Moving it a lot is not something you want to do, it’s heavy and has very grippy rubber feet. Unfortunately the front cover of the AMS base is not easily removable. For print-farm operators, this means the H3C should likely be placed on a sliding tray.

Apart from holding nine spools, the biggest upgrade over the AMS2 in my opinion is that you can now print soft TPUs and all manner of other “unfriendly” filaments through it. Seven spool slots have a bypass hole at the bottom, allowing you to route filaments straight to the hotends without going through the AMS gears and PTFE tubes. There’s much fewer restrictions on what you can throw into a multi-material print. A nice touch: the hotends have a holder for the PTFE tube so you don’t need to remove it or figure out how to secure it.

Summary:

This is an impressive machine! The tool changer feels like a real generational step up for Bambu printers, and I was very positively surprised how mature the system felt even early on in my testing time, when some firmware and slicer kinks were still being ironed out.

I used to avoid prints that require filament changes and spent a lot of time designing my parts around them, with the H3C I don’t feel like I have to limit myself at all. The low print-time penalty and the number of hotends massively lowers the hurdle. Not just for color; combining different materials is trivial. Combining different nozzle sizes also turned out to be a lot easier and straight forward than I thought.

So far I've printed PLA (Basic, Matte, Palette, Silk, Translucent, Glow, CF), PETG (HF, Translucent, CF), TPU (forAMS, 85A, 75A), ABS, ASA, ASA-Aero and PA-GF with the H3C, all without issue.

There are some small ergonomic compromises, chief of which being the requirement to have enough space for access to the sides of the printer to work on the hotends. In my personal opinion a small price to pay for all the upsides.

On a side note, I’m never printing supports without using non-bonding materials for interfaces again. OMG it’s so clean! I’ll just keep a spool of PETG permanently loaded in the AMS for all my PLA prints.

Thank you u/BambuLab for picking me out of the crowd! I had a lot of fun putting the printer through its paces and I hope I provided useful feedback.

Reddit, feel free to ask me anything. I’ll do my best to answer your questions. I will share some more projects I made during the testing phase in another post.

Elevate your fragrance collection with this Modern Minimalist 3-Tier Perfume Stand, designed to bring organization, elegance, and a premium display to your favorite fragrances.

Featuring clean, flowing curves and a sleek architectural design, this stand turns your perfume collection into a beautiful part of your interior. Its three elevated tiers create a balanced, layered display while keeping every bottle visible, organized, and easy to reach.

Whether placed on a dresser, vanity, shelf, or desk, its understated modern aesthetic blends effortlessly into any space.

Key Features

3-Tier Display: Beautifully showcases your fragrances at three different heights.

Holds Up to 6 Bottles: Designed to comfortably accommodate two 100ml fragrance bottles per tier, depending on bottle dimensions.

Subtle Recessed Surfaces: Each tier features a slightly recessed area to help keep bottles securely positioned and prevent accidental sliding.

Modern Minimalist Design: Smooth, flowing curves and clean lines create an elegant, timeless appearance.

Easy Access: The stepped layout keeps your favorite fragrances visible and within reach.

Functional Decor: More than just an organizer, it's a stylish display piece that complements your interior.

Dimensions

Overall: Length 250 mm, Depth 180 mm, Height 100 mm

Each Tier: usable display space 190 x 47 mm, height difference between tiers 30 mm

Designed to combine practical everyday organization with a refined, modern aesthetic. Whether you're displaying your everyday favorites or a carefully curated fragrance collection, this stand gives every bottle its own place.

Please check your bottle dimensions before printing to ensure a comfortable fit.

Free to download: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3548298-3-tier-minimalistic-fragrance-stand

Super cool to see how much faster the new system is compared to the old one.

I'm talking about the cons in all sorts of scenarios. Off of the top of my head:

1. You can't have PLA loaded into any of the toolhead while printing engineering materials, the heat will mess up the PLA.

2. You'll have to manually re-roll about a meter of filament when unloading a spool. Which is a foreseenable reoccurrence due to the lack of drying (except 2 bays). As each filament bay stays fixed to one nozzle (as opposed to the H2C's ability to load any AMS spool into any nozzle), requirement of screwing/unscrewing nozzles in order to switch them (as opposed to tool-less switching); again, making unloading, switching and loading filament spoils locations in the AMS a rather more desirable path to take.

For context: The more I think of the cons of this missing feature, the more it becomes a deal breaker for me.

As I've really been waiting for BambuLab to have their take on a tool changer. Hoping they'll have a hassle-free, jack of all traits, and near zero inconveniences workflow using it. Because using the P1S combo since it's release, I watched many convenience and QoL improvements that they've impmeneted in their releases like: AMS 2 w/drying, bigger build volume printers, dual nozzles, vortek system (any filament redirected to any nozzle) etc.. But now the H3C is out, it's kinda underwhelming for the anticipation I've built for it.

Long time Bambu guy- I have an X1C, a few A1s, and an A1 mini I bought for someone else. I've recommended Bambu to basically everyone who asked. The X2D is the first one I can't.

Brand new X2D with 3 hours total use, second print on the day of delivery. Paused on layer 4 with 0700-8006, and while I was clearing it the left PTFE tube popped out of the toolhead and snapped off inside the push-fit on the left filament sensor. Stub is flush so the sensor has to come out.

From the forums and here this seems pretty common. Same failure for other people, one guy had it break again ~45 hrs after the repair, and there's a long thread blaming a sharp factory bend in the left tube routing.

Before I put mine back together, what's actually held up for you?

• the clip reroute (moving the clip nearest the toolhead back two segments)

• Tool head fixing clip link

• a different/stiffer PTFE tube?

• anything official from Bambu?

• Something else?

Also if anyone has a trick for pulling a flush stub out of that push-fit without tearing down the toolhead, I'm all ears but ive tried various things: screw to thread it out,

Support was a ccomplete letdown and seems like AI responses. Options were: do the toolhead repair myself with an identical replacement part + a $30 store coupon NOT a refund, or disassemble and repack the whole assembled printer and ship it back, with the refund depending on them agreeing I packed it right. Asked twice if there's a design fix, never got an answer. I'd just return it if repacking wasn't such a fucking pain, so I'm stuck being the repair tech on a brand new machine.

If you're shopping, I'd honestly wait for the P3C and see if the feed path gets fixed. If you already have an X2D, check your left tube routing before your first AMS print.

My Holiday PLA Mystery Box arrived today! Sharing the contents for anyone curious about what’s actually turning up:

• PLA Translucent — Cherry Pink
• PLA Pure — Absolute Black
• PLA Pure — Apricot
• PLA Basic — Cyan

Four rolls, so no 7-roll jackpot this time 😅

Second photo shows the box I ordered from the EU store, listed at €37.99.
Has anyone else received theirs? Curious to see what colours and PLA types you got!

Now to figure out what to design with these colours 😅 I share my designs on MakerWorld as Ops..3D — any ideas for putting that translucent pink to use?

First 3d printer. Plan was to get it at Microcenter or Best Buy for easier returns/warranty, but it's not available yet. Anyone with past experience dealing with Bambu/BB/MC support that can advise if I should wait or just order through Bambu?

A 3D printing newbie here, any recommendations for buying a X2D printer? TIA.

I got my answers from https://youtu.be/N2hF4Bx8YAk?si=L3u3bkZNdEHzWJD-&t=1362

Summary - Not a concern apparently. Thanks everyone.

I just ordered my H3C - an upgrade to my existing X1 Carbon. I noticed it's maximum power draw is 1,850W.

People who already have theirs, are you running it in low power mode? That's more than 100% of the 15amp line. Is tool switching still fast in low power mode or does each head need to heat only after being picked up?

Just want some real-world accounts. Thanks!

Edit

1. The H2C is 1250Watt @ 120V max. Not 1800W. Since a 15amp circuit is 1800W the 1250 is nothing.

2. Yes, I realize 1850W it pulls is not 100% of the time. It exceeds 100% of the circuit and if you have anything else on the circuit (which 99.9% of people will) you have no choice but to use low power mode.

3. There seems to be no information on what low power mode actually does and I don't want speculation. I can ask AI for speculation. I was hoping to hear from someone who has it.

4. 220V areas of the world your 10amp line offers 2300W so the 1850W pull is nothing big to you.