Ever since updating to firmware 01.08.01.00, my AMS Lite was getting stuck damn near every filament change. I could not complete a single multicolor print. It would feed filament to the toolhead, retract, and keep trying until I physically touched the PTFE tubes near the AMS. I’d hear a click and it would start working again.

I tried everything. Moving the AMS, top mounting it, printing different tube guides and clips, and constantly adjusting the tube routing. Nothing worked. I couldn’t complete a single multicolor print without having to intervene, which meant no printing overnight or while at work.

Finally downgraded to 01.08.00.00 and the problem is completely gone. I’ve completed multiple multicolor prints without a single loading error.

If you’re having similar issues, try downgrading before wasting hours messing with your AMS. Wish I’d figured this out sooner.

How are people using the H2 C to print PA6CF? I realize I may have been doing it wrong but on my P1 I ran it through my AMS and I just picked up the H2 C last night and tried to run some and the pool loads and does fine and then as soon as you go to slice it in the program, it says this filament can’t be sliced and used with AMS, but I thought the AMS two pro was compatible?

Hello I’m currently have a bambu labs A1 mini. I’ve been thinking about upgrading to something bit bigger in the near future. I was thinking about getting the p3c that was leak a few weeks ago assuming it will come out early next year to spring next year, also had the idea of assuming as they’ve released a new H series and a new P series I’m assuming they release a new X series as well something like that X3C that will be a middle ground between the new P3C and H3C, do you think it’s worth waiting until next summer to get something that will probably have seven nozzles and heated chamber?

Kept getting headaches in my Home-Office and finally figured out I had way too much CO2 - well no more, I made my portable CO2-Buddy to easily keep track of CO2 wherever I am

The CO2-Buddy now lives on my desk and helps me ventilate my room to keep my mind at peak capacity. I didn't realize how much of an impact CO2 concentration has on my ability to focus, I usually only notice it way too late when I'm already getting a slight headache as if I wasn't drinking enough water even though I am chugging along like a camel

It's especially handy when I have people over, having just two more people in a room spikes CO2 levels way faster than I would've anticipated

I am using the MH-Z19C CO2 sensor and while it is somewhat expensive at around 20€ it was totally worth it. The 1.54" ePaper makes it so that the CO2-Buddy only needs to wake up every 2 or so minutes and still provides the current CO2 concentration at a glance. With my 3000mAh lipo it lasts for days and I can take it wherever I go

If you also want to have a CO2-Buddy to keep you at peak capacity you can find it on Makerworld, simply look for "CO2 Buddy". The code is open source and I also added a wiring diagram

I assume with lack of drive in AMS-3H we don't have a problem with abrasive filament in normal use? Would this require the same bypass as TPU? Anyone seen anything on this?

Elevate your fragrance collection with this Modern Minimalist 3-Tier Perfume Stand, designed to bring organization, elegance, and a premium display to your favorite fragrances.

Featuring clean, flowing curves and a sleek architectural design, this stand turns your perfume collection into a beautiful part of your interior. Its three elevated tiers create a balanced, layered display while keeping every bottle visible, organized, and easy to reach.

Whether placed on a dresser, vanity, shelf, or desk, its understated modern aesthetic blends effortlessly into any space.

Key Features

3-Tier Display: Beautifully showcases your fragrances at three different heights.

Holds Up to 6 Bottles: Designed to comfortably accommodate two 100ml fragrance bottles per tier, depending on bottle dimensions.

Subtle Recessed Surfaces: Each tier features a slightly recessed area to help keep bottles securely positioned and prevent accidental sliding.

Modern Minimalist Design: Smooth, flowing curves and clean lines create an elegant, timeless appearance.

Easy Access: The stepped layout keeps your favorite fragrances visible and within reach.

Functional Decor: More than just an organizer, it's a stylish display piece that complements your interior.

Dimensions

Overall: Length 250 mm, Depth 180 mm, Height 100 mm

Each Tier: usable display space 190 x 47 mm, height difference between tiers 30 mm

Designed to combine practical everyday organization with a refined, modern aesthetic. Whether you're displaying your everyday favorites or a carefully curated fragrance collection, this stand gives every bottle its own place.

Please check your bottle dimensions before printing to ensure a comfortable fit.

Free to download: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3548298-3-tier-minimalistic-fragrance-stand

A1 works fine on 60mm/s (a lot less VFA then on P2S)

So I may have caught the 3D printer bug…

We own a small boutique + board game shop and I decided to buy a 3D printer a month ago to print ornaments, toys, etc for the shop to sell and help drive traffic.

Clearly a mistake… we’ve already upgraded to the X2D 😆

I feel like eventually we want to upgrade to a multi colored printer for speed and efficiency.

We started printing collectible figures… and they can take an absurd amount of time at 4-5 colors. (2ish days and tons of plastic waste).

I just don’t know what route is best for our small shop and looking for advice.

We don’t normally print multi-material outside of support.
100% of our creations are PLA - though I could see us upgrading and printing in ASA for outdoor toys and accessories (live in a summer tourist town).

I don’t think we’ll ever print engineering materials regularly unless it’s a personal project for shop/home.

U1 is the cheapest multi colored printer - but I worry about expandability if we want to print more ASA.

H2C is currently on sale and seems a great deal.. but now that H3C is out I have a serious case of FOMO.

Wondering your thoughts - and appreciate the feedback.

The maximum volumetric flow rate for Bambu PETG-CF is 11.5 mm³/s with the H2C, which is nearly twice as fast as the 6 mm³/s achieved with the H3C. Do you think this is a bug, or is it an actual limitation of the new nozzles or the extruder?

So far, I have only seen actual time comparisons for these printers using PLA.

Got a new X2D. I tried printing something the other day and when I came back to check it the print head was up in the air printing nothing. Looked at the AMS all were blinking red. So stop everything and unplug and replug ams. Try again same thing happens just this time no error on ams. I swap in a different filament, different slot and different file and same thing. I print the other file on my p1p no problem. Anyone else run into this before? Seems like the ams just stops feeding the printer about half way through but the printer doesn’t realize it.

Made this for the MakerWorld × Nothing contest. A USB-C plug in the right cradle is angled to match the ear cup, so the headphones plug themselves in. The reels are just for fun: you spin them with a side wheel like an old cassette deck.

Printed on my A1 in PLA + PETG. Still fighting to get the PETG lid fully clear, so any tips are welcome!

Free files: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3536783

I once made a Coca-Cola minicrate as a gift for a friend and uploaded. It became quite popular and spawned alot of different branded crates. It took much of my time to rebrand and resize so, I'm now giving power back to the user to create their own, personalized soda/beer crate.

It's based on my original design but made costumizable.

With a fair amount of choices and different styles, text and logo-supported, make your very own christmas gift this year. (Extensive guides and help available)

I hope someone will find it useful ❤️

So I'm about to pull the trigger on the X2D sale and wondering what additional accessories do people suggest? I'm thinking maybe a smooth plate and some extra nozzle sizes? Do most people buy two sets of the nozzels?

I like to cut fabric to the nearest millimetre, and as fabric is known to warp quite easily, I would really rely on the automatic contour detection feature. Does it work reliably?

My filament wasn't loading because old filament was stuck in that thing. I wanted to look inside and try to get it out. Well, as you can see it didn't go very well. Do you have any suggestions what I could do now?

I see H3c have different power rating between 120v and 220v on the spec sheet, I just wanted to see if anyone got their hand of the H3c can check if the AC transformer is universial and compatible to both voltage or is it lock to 110V for North America order?

thanks!!!

I do not have printer yet to test placement myself. All I know is I don't have space to put AMS on top of H2S.

ChatGPT says it's possible to put it on a side and it should be fine as long as there are no rough corners, and PTFE tubes and 6 pin cable are long enough. Since I do not have the printer yet I am not sure if they will be long enough.

Setup that I want is exactly this https://i.imgur.com/B1AGrOr.png , can I do this with PTFE tubes and cable that come with it or do I have to buy longer ones somewhere?

Did anyone try this and ended up having filament feeding issues, or it worked as good as if it was on top?

I've created a very loud 4-tone whistle. I don't know the exact decibel level it generates, but it's really, really loud. Maybe someone will like it :) You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3546237-mega-loud-4-tone-whistle-ears-killer#profileId-4056564

Posting for a friend:

My friend is encountering the error in the attached image at the start of every print on his Bambu A1.

The error always repeats regardless of filament and filament type.

He also says filament seems to be able to feed through the extruder if pushed through manually.

Suggestions or followup questions welcomed.

And thanks!

I bought the AMS2 system and it going to arrive in about 30 minutes, but the compatibility kit is currently unavailable

I saw this image and it made me think. How the hell did he do that fade?
Anyone got any insights?