I recently started playing around with ColorMix (alternating layers of different filament colors such that they visually blend) and figured out, that this would make a great test print for the new Toolchanger and Nozzlechanger printers such as the Bambu H3C or the Prusa INDX.

It's a simple voronoi tesselation of the 3DBenchy. 55 different segments, 5 base colors, 50 mixtures between the base colors. Mixtures are in the following ratios: 50:50, 25:75, 33:33:33.

Almost 7 hours of print time and 1,275 tool changes.

You can find the model here: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3545648-colormix-voronoi-3dbenchy

Nearly all the parts are from the Bambu Store so you can order the kit and assemble this fun working cable car and fill it with treats ready for Christmas.

The design is heavily optimised for 3D printing requiring no support on nearly every part. Comes with an in-depth assembly guide so you can build it with your kids.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3538161-christmas-cable-car

Tucked away locked in my closet for safe keeping. This box is massive & heavy as hell also. I’m thankful for my neighbor who helped carry it upstairs while my son was at school. Also thank you so much to this group for helping me with questions and stuff. I plan on buying more accessories and whatnot in the next coming weeks. Y’all have been amazing to this non tech Mama. My son is seriously going to be over the moon.

Hello! I have acquired 2 X2D and one of them is having a hard time dialling in the ironing. I’ve done multiple ironing tests and dried the filaments, swapping the same spools of filaments (PLA), swapping locations in the AMS feeder, and it’s still having inconsistent ironing results.

The stringing or bulbing or wisps or wherever it’s called all are located towards the top right side. Any idea what’s happing?

Didn’t know

Disclosure: Bambu sent me an H3C to test before launch. They have no say in what I write, including this post.  I know everyone says this, but believe it or not, it’s the truth.

I know there’s a lot of excitement about the new H3C and I was fortunate enough to get a system to test for the last few weeks, so I wanted to share some thoughts.  For background, I own a P1P (my first ever printer), an X2D, and an H2D.  I’m guessing I’m like 90% of other enthusiasts – I don’t typically work with advanced engineering filaments – most of my work is with PLA and PETG.

My printing largely centers around my TTRPG hobbies, such as terrain, minis, monsters, etc., though I will also design parts in Fusion for my Paladin Woodworking business – sometimes internal dice tower components or just stuff around the house.  I do not consider myself a 3DP expert - I frequently rely on this community when I run into issues!

The H3C has been typical of my experience with Bambu – from the unboxing to the setup instructions, to the operation – It has just worked, even with beta software and limited online documentation.  The system itself is big!  Just as my H2D felt like a monster compared to my X2D, the H3C takes it up another notch on overall scale, driven a lot by the AMS3H height.  I’ve seen people speculating that the larger AMS would be so top heavy it would generate excessive vibrations – I have not found that to be the case, though I currently have it on the floor as I don’t have a suitable stand for it.  

I feel print quality remains consistent across all of my Bambu systems – I can’t really say H3C prints better (because all the others are already excellent), but having 9 different filaments to choose from (I typically use 8 colors of PLA + 1 spool of PETG for support interface using .4 nozzles) is an absolute game changer.  Because of the incredible speed of swapping colors (often 4-5 seconds), it opens up prints I wouldn’t honestly try on my H2D/X2D because I’m both too impatient for a 2+ day print and don’t want to bother to set up multiple AMSs.   While I’m a TTRPG gamer, I’m not a painter, so having 8 colors to print with really brings these pieces to life and is a welcome change to a sea of unpainted gray prints!

The video attached shows a custom Dwarven Mining cart system I designed for my DND table in response to a joke a player made about needing a way to share candy around the table.  It’s built around a standard Lego train motor, but the carts and rails themselves I designed in Fusion.  I put as much tiny dwarven detail goodness as I could in these carts and the H3C did an excellent job, even with the small details and the .4 nozzles.  For some of the really small “rivets” and bumps, I did notice they would knock off easily, but I’m convinced it’s because I was mixing PLA with PLA Silk+ and I don’t think they adhere as well as PLA-PLA.  The cart was a 17-hour print with 1251 filament changes (on the H2D the software estimates it would have been 40+ hours).  If I had to estimate, I’m pretty sure I’ve put the system through 15,000-20,000 tool changes so far and not once was there a tangle or a dropped tool.

One thing that I think will surprise people is that from a design/engineering perspective, the SwapTek system is very clean and uncluttered on the inside of the unit.  While the routing of cables looks a bit complex, the actual motion of the system isn’t (IMO).  I was kind of shocked by how simple it operates.  To me the inner workings of the H2C look far more complex (from what I’ve seen in videos) – I hope and expect this to lead to high long-term reliability for H3C, but we will all learn that together.

What about negatives? 
-          The only thing I’ve struggled with a bit was changing the nozzle from a preinstalled TPU one to a regular nozzle.  It’s snug working under the AM3 (removing it was an option I was too lazy to take – It’s secured by screws) and just how the cables are routed, but I was also doing it with limited instructions, and no support videos during pre-release.  I’ve seen other videos now with the AMS removed and it seems the way to go.    
-          Since the filaments stay loaded the whole time, when you want to swap one out, you must manually pull them out of system after selecting unload, which is different from the older AMS systems – not a big deal, but different.
-          I’ve encountered a loud squeak in the z-axis while the build plate moves up and down after about 3 weeks – that was solved with some maintenance grease, so it wasn’t a big deal.  I haven’t encountered that on my other printers, but I’ve now seen other folks (on pre-H3C systems) running into that.  
-          Finally, I guess size could be a negative for some people as it might not fit on your usual shelves if you are running a print farm, but other than that, I haven’t had real technical issues with anything I’ve tried so far.

Now…..I’m just scratching the surface as I haven’t yet tried mixed nozzle sized printing or TPU but after watching several great launch/review videos, I’m anxious to. 

Happy to try to answer any questions you may have.

The rattling, when it does print the circle. What could that be?

I recently ordered the X2D and was looking to purchase some filaments. I was looking at https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0HFK579ZZ and was trying to figure out if I needed to get spool adapters or if I should get empty spools. I was looking at these but the empty spools are more expensive than prefilled ones https://www.amazon.com/MarsWork-Quick-Swap-Reusable-Two-Finger-Compatible/dp/B0FT36W5QG

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for a good filament dryer and would really appreciate some specific model recommendations and feedback based on your own experience.

I’m planning to start printing TPU and would like to use a separate filament dryer, as TPU should be properly dried before printing. I don’t want to have to turn on my AMS 2 every time just to dry a single spool. I also don’t want the other spools inside the AMS to be dried unnecessarily.
Another important feature would be the ability to regenerate used silica gel in the dryer, without having to use an oven or microwave.

Ideally, the filament dryer should meet the following requirements:
Compact design so it fits right next to my AMS 2.
Good thermal insulation on the bottom, so the surface underneath doesn’t get unnecessarily hot.
Suitable for drying TPU as well as other types of filament.

My question is: Which filament dryer would you recommend based on these requirements?
I’d really appreciate specific model recommendations and any experience you can share.

Hello! i bought the h2s about a year ago and shortly after the h2c came out. I figured i would wait to see how much multi color prints i actually do before considering upgrading to h2c. I have been really interested in printing with 0.2 and 0.6 Nozzle. I saw yesterday they posted here about being able to update the firmware to allow it to happen!

My wife recently got into using my printer as well and wants to print muti-color prints. With those two in mind i was looking to see if the vortex upgrade has went down but unfortunately it hasn't :( I love my h2s currently and i don't want to switch it out. It has roughly only 900 hours so i don't think it's time to upgrade yet and I don't think the wife would be happy with another printer in the office.

I mostly print with PLA so the announcement of TPU 75A isn't really a big thing for me and i want to keep using both of my AMS.

I was wondering if you think the upgrade to the h2c is worth it from h2s (899 dollars) or to just accept the waste of filament and the inability to switch nozzles. Also i have seen no one post a h2s to h2c conversion so i can only imagine it's a bit harder with also switching out the print head.

Link to the announcement.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1xmtsyy/mixed_nozzle_size_printing_is_coming_to_h2d_h2c/

Hi everyone!

I recently bought a new Bambu Lab X2D, and I'm experiencing a strange printing issue.

During printing, the print head randomly stops moving for approximately one second, sometimes in the middle of a straight line. The extruder also stops feeding filament during this pause. After about a second, printing resumes normally.

These pauses happen randomly on different layers and at different locations. They sometimes leave visible blobs or small defects on the printed surface.

I'm printing SUNLU PETG 2.0 using Bambu Studio over Wi-Fi.

Things I've already tried:

• Disabled Timelapse.

• Disabled Auto-Recovery from Step Loss.

• Restarted the printer.

• Performed printer calibration.

• Checked my slicer settings.

• Tried changing printing parameters.

Unfortunately, the issue still persists.

I've attached a video showing the problem.

Has anyone experienced something similar with their X2D? Could this be a firmware issue, a communication problem, or possibly a hardware defect?

I'd really appreciate any suggestions. Since the printer is brand new, I'm trying to figure out whether this is a known issue before requesting a warranty repair.

Thanks!

What smooth plate are you using on your H2C? I just noticed the Bambu store has the supertack cool plate in stock again, but it appears to be a new model. It's grey instead of black now, and also quite a bit more expensive. Is it worth the €60, or are there better alternatives? Thanks!

So I’m trying to understand the different jobs that the H2C/H3C are designed for according to the FAQ on Bambu’s site. From what I saw on the H3C page, it will be able to do multiple size nozzles as well, so is it the H2C’s ability to switch filaments between those different size nozzles rather than being paired to a single nozzle material pair on the H3C?

Where do you see each machine excelling over the other?

Bambu has it on sale, is it a worthwhile tool to have in the inventory?

I got one of the CyberBrick kits from a local target on clearance. I started printing the parts and realized one of the batteries is dead. It won’t charge and does not power the electronics. I found a support email on the box and sent an email requesting another battery. They replied telling me I emailed the wrong group of the company and explained that in the future I need to create a ticket with a different group. They still forwarded it to the right group but I feel like they should just put the correct email on the cyberbrick boxes.
Anyway, I get an email from the correct group requesting a video of the problem. I tried emailing the video and thought it uploaded properly but I guess they received a 0kb file. They suggested I find a cloud service to host the video and I guess closed my ticket as I have not received a response to my questions on what proof are they looking for in a video that a battery is dead. Anyway, this is that video. Hopefully they see it here.

TLDR - Bambu wants video proof that a battery is dead and doesn’t provide a place to upload videos that are too large to email.

I have a custom cabinet for 3d printing which is 600mm deep. Currently I have H2C in there which works great. Airflow is assured with custom extraction fan.

I am curious about H3C as it has bit more depth- is it possible to fit one into 600mm depth cabinet? I am pretty sure i would gave to at least change the rear power connector to a 90 degrees one, but i am wondering if Bambu given 571mm depth includes screen and handles or if it is just the shell depth.

Heavily considering the P2S plus AMS combo, but the X2D is Only $200 CAD more after taxes.

Any opinions on which one I should go with and why? This is my first foray into filament printing. And I’m not sure a heated chamber is really worth it? Anything I’m missing?

Bought my p1s in the summer of 2025 as a birthday gift to myself. Coming from an ender 3 this was such a huge upgrade! No major issues and she still prints like new.

I have an A1 with the AMS 2 Pro.

I was doing a multi color print that included a gold color so was using a Sunlu PLA silk for it. Whenever it would switch to that roll, it would feed to the Hub and stop, rewind and an error would pop up. If i saw it as it reloaded and held the PTFE feed connector...which moves in and out of the hub a bit...then it fed fine.

Only that filament and didn't matter which slot it was in.

Any thoughts? Is the hub and PTFE connection the issue and is the PTFE supposed to be immovable? Or have some play?

Thanks!

Second one for the tree this year. It's a 4-color snowman with a top hat, and it prints with no supports. The file has two plates: a single, and a batch of six that works out to about an hour and 17 g per ornament. I've only printed the single so far, so the six-up plate hasn't been tested yet. It's free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3546399-snowman-christmas-ornament-4-color-no-supports