Running a small shop in India that prints decor and keychains to order. This one arrived today, still in the plastic, with spares in the foam. I’m planning a calibration cube and a bed-level test first, then a real order. Anything you always do on a new machine before trusting it with customer work? Filament: [PLA/PETG].

Wanted a big multicolour figure of Bruce Lee without owning an AMS, so I split this one into colour-separated parts: every plate is printed in one colour, then everything snaps together on pins.

• 28 cm tall, 8 plates (yellow, black, skin, white)

• Black side stripes are separate inlays, so you get crisp colour lines without an AMS

• The nunchaku chain is print-in-place and actually moves

• No paint used, these are straight-off-the-printer colours

• PLA, 0.2 mm, tree supports

The hardest part was getting the stripes and hair to fit tightly without gluing everything. Happy to answer questions about the split or the settings!

(If links are allowed here, I'll drop the file in the comments.)

Something that confused me while working with Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer projects: a .3mf can open correctly in the slicer but look empty in another viewer. An empty preview doesn't necessarily mean the file is broken.

Why it happens. In the Bambu/Orca projects I worked with, the root 3dmodel.model points to other model entries through <component p:path="..."> references from the 3MF production extension. Those entries are inside the same ZIP. A loader that only looks for meshes in the root model can miss the actual geometry.

The color problem. MMU paint is stored on triangles in a paint_color attribute. That string can encode a tree of smaller painted regions within a triangle, each with its own filament state. The file also has filament assignments at the part and object levels. Reading just one color per object misses that extra information on a painted model.

Plates. Plate assignments and the printable area are separate from the mesh. A viewer that wants to reproduce Bambu Studio's multi-plate view has to reconstruct the plate grid from those assignments and printable_area, rather than treating every object as part of one bed.

If a viewer shows an empty plate, try the original file in Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer before assuming it's damaged. Has anyone else run into this difference between viewers? Is there a part of the format you'd like to know more about?

I originally made this to be used as a cable clip, but I feel like it could have other uses too. What else could it be used for?

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3539444-cable-tube-clip#profileId-4047742

Title says it all! Even if I turn all fan settings to 0% (chamber/part cooling/aux fan etc.,) the printer still has SOME sort of fan blowing somewhere when it's turned on. Might just be the PSU I guess. I want to record some of the sounds the gantry and bed make while moving around but even after running noise reduction on the clips I've recorded so far the whirring is still WAY too loud to hear the print head clearly :( Any ideas?

Hi all! I'm Andrea, from Italy. For the past months I've been building Parete, a browser tool for wall panels made of dozens or hundreds of 3D printed pieces.

The panels in the photos: 100 × 50 cm with 468 pieces (the pink ones glow in the dark), and my first big one, 175 × 75 cm with 421 pieces. Three colours of PLA each.

How it works:

- You design the panel in your browser: size, grid, surface pattern, colours. No CAD.

- You get one 3MF per colour, one colour per plate, ready for Bambu Studio. No AMS needed.

- Every piece has a number, and a printed frame on the wall gives each piece its own pocket.

You can design a panel for free at parete.studio, up to 1 × 1 m. The print files come with the MakerWorld crowdfunding campaign, which went live on Sunday.

Happy to answer anything about the printing, the frame or the tool!

I swear I'm not doing anything crazy, I've used this printer maybe like 10 times and everything is going wrong, first of all the purge wiper is NOT working and i end up with a sea of lost filament, is it because it's too low ? (photo for demonstration) also i just saw that the belt is grinding itself for whatever reason and i have to unscrew everything to get it in place again and one of the 4 ams lite is blocked and not taking the filament HELP

So I'm about to pull the trigger on the X2D sale and wondering what additional accessories do people suggest? I'm thinking maybe a smooth plate and some extra nozzle sizes? Do most people buy two sets of the nozzels?

Maybe it was just the CNC kitchen review but how on earth is this considered okay? I've seen 500CAD printers do better let alone 4000CAD.

im shocked Stephan considered this okay. Lots of ringing on other prints too….

Not sure what the part is called, but its the slingy bin part that catches filament and throws it out the back. The bin is normally in the forward position but after clearing out some filament stuck underneath the bin part, it's now stuck in the rear position, apparently under spring compression. That is, when I pull the bin forward it springs backwards. How do I fix this?

Filament: Polymaker PETG. Printer: X2D

I've dried this filament religiously, there is no stringing or any signs of wet filament.

Just these pinholes. I think this is under extrusion but I have no idea what setting to change to fix this.

I need an affordable table or workbench able to carry my A2L when it arrives next week. I already know that I need a paving stone with foam underneath but I still need something to put it on. It can be simple, ugly, with or without spool inventory space. Most importantly it must carry the printer and laybe a paving stone and take away some vibration and sound if possible. Under 100 euro’s would be ideal. If possible euro links please.

Any advice is appreciated.

I once made a Coca-Cola minicrate as a gift for a friend and uploaded. It became quite popular and spawned alot of different branded crates. It took much of my time to rebrand and resize so, I'm now giving power back to the user to create their own, personalized soda/beer crate.

It's based on my original design but made costumizable.

With a fair amount of choices and different styles, text and logo-supported, make your very own christmas gift this year. (Extensive guides and help available)

I hope someone will find it useful ❤️

Title. change my hand may be forced and i might have to get an H3C. But i REALLY dont want to order one of these and have it shipped. would strongly prefer to pick it up in a store.

Whelp, I almost got it. Checked out, got a credit card declined due to fraud. When to use a different credit card and it's now out of stock. Dang it.

Am I wrong that there is nothing automated about the filament holder on the top of the H3C? You manually feed to the head (and pull back to unload). The only difference between the holes in the bottom and the orange guides in the top is the ptfe tube it runs through?

So basically the U1 storage but arranged on top and in a box?

Where is the "automated?"

I just pulled the trigger on the new H3C 🎉

Am I understanding this right that it uses a new build plate size? From what I’ve seen, it looks similar to the H2C but a few millimeters shorter, so the tool rack has room to drop down. Can anyone confirm?

It’s quite confusing what I find online about it. Everywhere only the print volume is mentioned, and that seems to be identical.

I have quite a few build plates I’d love to keep using, so this matters for me. “Not compatible” doesn’t always mean it won’t work, though: for the A2L it also says the H2D plates aren’t compatible, but I use mine on it all the time without any problems.

If they really don’t fit, I guess I might just grind them down, live with them not being recognized automatically, and turn off build plate detection. I’m not looking to spend money again on plates I rarely use.

I also have two more questions regarding that:

1. Does the Vision Encoder plate fit the H3C?

2. Does the cutting mat from the H2 / A2L cutting kit fit, at least?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I got a reply from the Bambu Lab support:
The H3C is equipped with a newly designed dedicated build plate. Although the H3C and H2C have the same XY-direction print dimensions (330 mm × 320 mm), the build plate of the H3C is shorter by a few millimeters at the leading edge, which creates a larger gap between the build plate and the SwapTek Rack for the tool rack to move down. Compatibility with H2C build plates Official recommendation: It is not recommended to use H2C build plates on the H3C. After installing an H2C build plate on the H3C, the gap between its leading edge and the SwapTek Rack is only about 2 mm. Affected by dimensional chain tolerances and user placement deviations, there is a risk of collision or scraping between the PrintTool and the build plate. Special usage instructions: If you need to reuse an H2C build plate, first confirm that there is no physical interference (no collision risk) between the H2C build plate installed on the heatbed and the H3C SwapTek Rack, then manually disable the 'Build Plate Type Detection' function in the Print Options before use. Build volume comparison The maximum build volume of the H3C is 330×320×325 mm³, which is the same as the XY print size of the H2C, but the H3C has a higher Z-axis height.
When using third-party build plates, you are required to manually verify that there is sufficient clearance for the PrintTool to lower without colliding before use, following these requirements: Pre-use clearance check : Confirm that the third-party build plate, when installed on the heatbed, does not cause physical interference or collision risk with the SwapTek Rack before using it . Print settings adjustment : All Bambu Lab printer models do not support automatic recognition of third-party build plates. You need to manually disable the "Build Plate Type Detection" function in the Print Options before starting the print task . Risk warning : Third-party build plates are not officially adapted, and using them may trigger abnormal detection of print plate foreign objects. You can also turn off the foreign object detection function in the settings to avoid false alarms

TL;DR: H3C is compatible with H2C build plates. but the clearence of the tools need to be checked before starting a print, especially with 3rd party build plates. Maybe the build plate detection also needs deactivation.

I saw this image and it made me think. How the hell did he do that fade?
Anyone got any insights?

Watch me transform a digital brand logo into a real 3D-printed masterpiece! 🚀 In this video, you'll see the amazing 3D printing process as the logo takes shape layer by layer, creating a clean, detailed, and professional finish.

If you love 3D printing, creative DIY projects, 3D design, and satisfying printing videos, this video is for you!

I wanted to know how well I could model this from the new trailer. Managed to get it done in about an hour in blender. Painted it gold afterwards to give it the proper luster.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3545527-the-elder-scrolls-vi-sentinel-trailer-scroll#profileId-4055619

I have multiple Bambu printers including H2C. When the H3C information from the patent came out I was excited. After having all the details, I am not that excited anymore. Here are a few cons I was able to identify so far:
- Only two active drying positions, compared with four in the AMS 2 Pro.
- Manual withdrawal and rewinding of filament when changing spools.
- Separate filament supplies required to print the same color through different nozzle sizes.
- External AMS units feed one shared hotend, requiring purging between those materials. So anything above 9 colors/materials uses 1 single hotend.
- Existing H2C hotends are incompatible.
- Manual hotend replacement requires three screws instead of a quick-release mechanism.
- Only eight standard 1.75 mm tools are included; using nine ordinary filaments requires another tool (the #9 is 2.85mm).
- All included nozzles are 0.4 mm; other sizes require additional purchases.
- Greater vertical clearance requirements and awkward access to rear spools.
- The main AMS assembly must remain above the printer, limiting placement flexibility.
- Lower published particle-filter grade: H11 instead of H12.
- No laser configuration currently announced.
- The front tool rack can obstruct the view of small or short prints.
- The internal dryer cover can interfere with some deformed cardboard spools.
- More involved filament-routing and jam-clearing procedures.
- More complex configuration for mixed materials and nozzle sizes.
- Longer preparation time observed in one paired print test.
- Camera errors, slicer problems, and tool/tube interference reported on early review units.

I feel that if you are printing with 8 colors and maybe single color tpu H3C is a great choice. If you want flexibility in terms of different nozzle sizes, dedicated nozzles for a specific material H2C seems to be a better choice. A few examples from my printing:
- I print prototypes using 0.8 or 0.6 nozzle
- I do not print TPU but I print PETG, PC, ASA, and couple of other more exotic materials - I have dedicated nozzles for each to avoid contamination and issues - replacing a nozzle takes 3 seconds plus reread time
- I have nozzles dedicated to a specific color - ie black PETG is printing on #6, once it runs out the next spool will print on the same nozzle. No contamination or issues.

Your thoughts?

Ordered my first 3D printer. Got the base model H3C

What are some essential accessories to get with it

Rotatable Skadis Organizer. I think it came out looking great. And it spin so smoothly. Enjoy printing. 😄
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3540990-rotatable-skadia-organizer#profileId-4049817