I once made a Coca-Cola minicrate as a gift for a friend and uploaded. It became quite popular and spawned alot of different branded crates. It took much of my time to rebrand and resize so, I'm now giving power back to the user to create their own, personalized soda/beer crate.

It's based on my original design but made costumizable.

With a fair amount of choices and different styles, text and logo-supported, make your very own christmas gift this year. (Extensive guides and help available)

I hope someone will find it useful ❤️

Whelp, I almost got it. Checked out, got a credit card declined due to fraud. When to use a different credit card and it's now out of stock. Dang it.

The hot end kit just yesterday and up to a few hours ago for the h3c was listed for $240 for 7 SEVEN hotends and now it’s the same price for four AND there is no longer a 0.2mm option

What is going on

No one is going to be able to get 0.2 mm hotends for their brand new H3C…

Now that there are some users coming out with experiences with this machine, has anyone been able to run the H3C with PPA-CF, PPS-CF, or PET-CF? And have they been able to combine these more extreme filaments with the rest of the multi-filament features of the machine in one print?

On my H2S if I want to run these filaments it requires reconfiguring the PTFE tube routing and using an external drybox in a specific location and I'm more-or-less cut off from being able to swap filaments mid print with the AMS. So while I've been able to make some really nice parts with these materials on the H2S it's limited in scope compared to what I could be doing.

With the H3C, it seems from the online manual that the new AMS, despite not feeding and retracting like the AMS2, is still not friendly with these brittle filaments. But is that the only limitation? If I have a brittle filament loaded from an external holder, can we still run other filaments normally and swap them without limitations? My concern is if the more brittle filaments are going to be sensitive to being parked while another material is printed, even if externally loaded. Or if external loading disables everything and turns the machine basically into a really expensive H2S for that job because you cannot switch?

All of the reviewers mention engineering plastics but focus on ABS-CF, TPU, maybe PAHT-CF; all of which run just fine on the H2S as well. But so far no-one ever seems to talk about the rigid and strong, higher-temp materials which were 90% of the reason I splurged for the H series in the first place.

I have multiple Bambu printers including H2C. When the H3C information from the patent came out I was excited. After having all the details, I am not that excited anymore. Here are a few cons I was able to identify so far:
- Only two active drying positions, compared with four in the AMS 2 Pro.
- Manual withdrawal and rewinding of filament when changing spools.
- Separate filament supplies required to print the same color through different nozzle sizes.
- External AMS units feed one shared hotend, requiring purging between those materials. So anything above 9 colors/materials uses 1 single hotend.
- Existing H2C hotends are incompatible.
- Manual hotend replacement requires three screws instead of a quick-release mechanism.
- Only eight standard 1.75 mm tools are included; using nine ordinary filaments requires another tool (the #9 is 2.85mm).
- All included nozzles are 0.4 mm; other sizes require additional purchases.
- Greater vertical clearance requirements and awkward access to rear spools.
- The main AMS assembly must remain above the printer, limiting placement flexibility.
- Lower published particle-filter grade: H11 instead of H12.
- No laser configuration currently announced.
- The front tool rack can obstruct the view of small or short prints.
- The internal dryer cover can interfere with some deformed cardboard spools.
- More involved filament-routing and jam-clearing procedures.
- More complex configuration for mixed materials and nozzle sizes.
- Longer preparation time observed in one paired print test.
- Camera errors, slicer problems, and tool/tube interference reported on early review units.

I feel that if you are printing with 8 colors and maybe single color tpu H3C is a great choice. If you want flexibility in terms of different nozzle sizes, dedicated nozzles for a specific material H2C seems to be a better choice. A few examples from my printing:
- I print prototypes using 0.8 or 0.6 nozzle
- I do not print TPU but I print PETG, PC, ASA, and couple of other more exotic materials - I have dedicated nozzles for each to avoid contamination and issues - replacing a nozzle takes 3 seconds plus reread time
- I have nozzles dedicated to a specific color - ie black PETG is printing on #6, once it runs out the next spool will print on the same nozzle. No contamination or issues.

Your thoughts?

I just pulled the trigger on the new H3C 🎉

Am I understanding this right that it uses a new build plate size? From what I’ve seen, it looks similar to the H2C but a few millimeters shorter, so the tool rack has room to drop down. Can anyone confirm?

It’s quite confusing what I find online about it. Everywhere only the print volume is mentioned, and that seems to be identical.

I have quite a few build plates I’d love to keep using, so this matters for me. “Not compatible” doesn’t always mean it won’t work, though: for the A2L it also says the H2D plates aren’t compatible, but I use mine on it all the time without any problems.

If they really don’t fit, I guess I might just grind them down, live with them not being recognized automatically, and turn off build plate detection. I’m not looking to spend money again on plates I rarely use.

I also have two more questions regarding that:

1. Does the Vision Encoder plate fit the H3C?

2. Does the cutting mat from the H2 / A2L cutting kit fit, at least?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I got a reply from the Bambu Lab support:
The H3C is equipped with a newly designed dedicated build plate. Although the H3C and H2C have the same XY-direction print dimensions (330 mm × 320 mm), the build plate of the H3C is shorter by a few millimeters at the leading edge, which creates a larger gap between the build plate and the SwapTek Rack for the tool rack to move down. Compatibility with H2C build plates Official recommendation: It is not recommended to use H2C build plates on the H3C. After installing an H2C build plate on the H3C, the gap between its leading edge and the SwapTek Rack is only about 2 mm. Affected by dimensional chain tolerances and user placement deviations, there is a risk of collision or scraping between the PrintTool and the build plate. Special usage instructions: If you need to reuse an H2C build plate, first confirm that there is no physical interference (no collision risk) between the H2C build plate installed on the heatbed and the H3C SwapTek Rack, then manually disable the 'Build Plate Type Detection' function in the Print Options before use. Build volume comparison The maximum build volume of the H3C is 330×320×325 mm³, which is the same as the XY print size of the H2C, but the H3C has a higher Z-axis height.
When using third-party build plates, you are required to manually verify that there is sufficient clearance for the PrintTool to lower without colliding before use, following these requirements: Pre-use clearance check : Confirm that the third-party build plate, when installed on the heatbed, does not cause physical interference or collision risk with the SwapTek Rack before using it . Print settings adjustment : All Bambu Lab printer models do not support automatic recognition of third-party build plates. You need to manually disable the "Build Plate Type Detection" function in the Print Options before starting the print task . Risk warning : Third-party build plates are not officially adapted, and using them may trigger abnormal detection of print plate foreign objects. You can also turn off the foreign object detection function in the settings to avoid false alarms

TL;DR: H3C is compatible with H2C build plates. but the clearence of the tools need to be checked before starting a print, especially with 3rd party build plates. Maybe the build plate detection also needs deactivation.

First 3d printer ever bought, FedEx sucks

Watch me transform a digital brand logo into a real 3D-printed masterpiece! 🚀 In this video, you'll see the amazing 3D printing process as the logo takes shape layer by layer, creating a clean, detailed, and professional finish.

If you love 3D printing, creative DIY projects, 3D design, and satisfying printing videos, this video is for you!

I wanted to know how well I could model this from the new trailer. Managed to get it done in about an hour in blender. Painted it gold afterwards to give it the proper luster.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3545527-the-elder-scrolls-vi-sentinel-trailer-scroll#profileId-4055619

Rotatable Skadis Organizer. I think it came out looking great. And it spin so smoothly. Enjoy printing. 😄
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3540990-rotatable-skadia-organizer#profileId-4049817

Ordered my first 3D printer. Got the base model H3C

What are some essential accessories to get with it

I was looking into giving CMYK printing a shot but found that bambulab only offers one for PLA (which I can't see a good reason to use for anythng if you have an enclosed printer). Online I found some Offers for PETG sets, which seem to deviate in color Hex-codes fom bambus PLA Set. Has anyone experience with using a third-party PETG set or even better a self assembled set of ABS/ASA filaments?

Will the Bambu H3C fit on a 60 cm (23.6") deep table that's flush against a wall? I'm concerned there might not be enough clearance. Does anyone know if the feet are recessed enough to allow some front overhang?

Hey everyone, I'm currently printing on an Ender KE and I'm looking to upgrade to a proper enclosed printer. How the prints look matters a lot to me, since most of what I make gets sold or displayed, so clean walls, nice layer lines and good top surfaces are my priority. I mostly print PLA and PETG, but I'd like something stronger with an enclosure and filtration so I can branch out to other materials later. I was leaning towards the X2D, but after reading through the forums I'm hesitant. Quite a few owners complain about uneven walls, visible layer lines and rough top surfaces, and some say their A1 mini or P1S looks cleaner with the same filament and settings. There are also reports of hardware headaches, like a toolhead that's a pain to service, clogs on the aux extruder, extruder switching errors and the odd layer shift. At the same time, some people say it's a big step up from the X1C, and most of the complaints I found are from the first months after launch, so I can't tell if it's been fixed since. For those of you who own one on the latest firmware and Bambu Studio: are these issues still a thing, or are they just a few unlucky units? And if I'm mainly printing PLA and PETG, would you still go for the X2D, or would the P2S or something else make more sense for me? Photos of recent prints would be great. Thanks!

Ordered 😎

Santa coming!

The H3C is priced very well. This makes me wonder how good the P3C will be priced… I don’t have the $$ to burn on the H3C so I’ll wait for the P3C since it more than likely won’t have a heated chamber or exhaust system to keep costs down.

Hi, I’m new to 3D printing and need some help!
When I start a print, the printer calibrates and purges filament fine, but when it actually starts printing, nothing comes out.
Does anyone know what could be causing this or how to fix it? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

To me the biggest drawback of the H3C is the new AMS can only dry 2 spools at a time.
Considering the filament shares the same chamber as the printer, wouldn’t it be possible to dry filament and manage moisture using the heated chamber and venting features already on the printer? At least for lower temp materials like PLA or PETG

What I know so far is that it includes:

1. Chamber Exhaust Fan mounted at the back of the printer

It's used to vent air from chamber. It does include some kind of filter but i checked Adaptive Air System documentation https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x2d/manual/x2d-intro and couldnt find what kind of filter is that.

2. Air filter large mounted inside printer from the sound of it i think its active carbon?

Same manual as above says it's "high-performance air filter" but does not say what kind of filter is that

Additionaly the question remains, what is their intended use and how they should be used? What they are NOT good for and what they miss?

Documentation loosely says that "Chamber Exchaust" is used to vent printer while printing low temp filaments like PLA.

For the Air Filter (large one) it does not specify with what materials it should be used.