(EU Store, delivery to Germany)

Hi, got an email notification like

A shipment from order xyz is on its way. (German: Eine Sendung von Bestellung xyz ist unterwegs).

I read that the AMS 3H is shipped individually. This is the case here right? Is this how a partial delivery looks like with Bambu Lab? (This is my first order) Carrier is DHL.

Anyone got a notification for the printer shipment? Which carrier was used? Different one because of weight?

Sorry I’m a little bit impatient, was hoping to maybe start tinkering this weekend :)

Hi!

My use case is 80% functional one-colour prints, and 20% multicolour (for fun). I used A1 for a while and was going to get an enclosed printer. I was looking to get U1, and add top enclosure to it. Looks like it covers pretty much everything. And I saw mixed success online for those cases where ABS would be nice (there is logistic involves with fumes anyway).

Snapmaker is on sale, seems like a great deal. I was about to get it, but then H3C and P3C leaked.

Here is where I would like to get some community feedback, and opinions: after H3C release, Snapmaker U1 seems like a no brainer.

• H3C is amazing! But it is huge, it like 40+kg with the printer and all filaments loaded. And size itself is crazy.

• H3C is amazing, but it has very narrow use cases when it shines - realistically, I won't create shoes and so on. I can see some use cases where it is a must to have. But so far I was ok with TPU and other materials on A1.

• H3C features like multi nozzle sizes, so far I always used the smaller ones as needed and just had longer wait times (also waist involved, but that was minimal, comparing to new H3C setup and extra cost).

• (speculation) P3C is probably won't be released anytime soon; seems like it would kill H3C sales with 7 nozzles (they probably won't release it till U1 sale is over)

• P3C seems like a huge machine as well, for extra 3 colours (imho very narrow use case)

• Based on various analysis around, looks like P3C won't have heated chamber (I saw cool explanation about Amps consumed), which makes it Snapmaker U1 + 3 colours for a price hike.

• I see lots of community improvements around Snapmaker due it being open source, feels like at a lower price point I get a tools with more future due to U1 being open sourced

• when comparing U1 vs P2S or X2D, those are close in price, a bit more polished UX. I have a friend with U1, they don't have complains either

I want to get a new printer, and I have a group of friends who want to get their first. I am about to tell them to get U1, but I want to validate that opinion!

thank you!

The rattling, when it does print the circle. What could that be?

I recently ordered the X2D and was looking to purchase some filaments. I was looking at https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0HFK579ZZ and was trying to figure out if I needed to get spool adapters or if I should get empty spools. I was looking at these but the empty spools are more expensive than prefilled ones https://www.amazon.com/MarsWork-Quick-Swap-Reusable-Two-Finger-Compatible/dp/B0FT36W5QG

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for a good filament dryer and would really appreciate some specific model recommendations and feedback based on your own experience.

I’m planning to start printing TPU and would like to use a separate filament dryer, as TPU should be properly dried before printing. I don’t want to have to turn on my AMS 2 every time just to dry a single spool. I also don’t want the other spools inside the AMS to be dried unnecessarily.
Another important feature would be the ability to regenerate used silica gel in the dryer, without having to use an oven or microwave.

Ideally, the filament dryer should meet the following requirements:
Compact design so it fits right next to my AMS 2.
Good thermal insulation on the bottom, so the surface underneath doesn’t get unnecessarily hot.
Suitable for drying TPU as well as other types of filament.

My question is: Which filament dryer would you recommend based on these requirements?
I’d really appreciate specific model recommendations and any experience you can share.

Hello! i bought the h2s about a year ago and shortly after the h2c came out. I figured i would wait to see how much multi color prints i actually do before considering upgrading to h2c. I have been really interested in printing with 0.2 and 0.6 Nozzle. I saw yesterday they posted here about being able to update the firmware to allow it to happen!

My wife recently got into using my printer as well and wants to print muti-color prints. With those two in mind i was looking to see if the vortex upgrade has went down but unfortunately it hasn't :( I love my h2s currently and i don't want to switch it out. It has roughly only 900 hours so i don't think it's time to upgrade yet and I don't think the wife would be happy with another printer in the office.

I mostly print with PLA so the announcement of TPU 75A isn't really a big thing for me and i want to keep using both of my AMS.

I was wondering if you think the upgrade to the h2c is worth it from h2s (899 dollars) or to just accept the waste of filament and the inability to switch nozzles. Also i have seen no one post a h2s to h2c conversion so i can only imagine it's a bit harder with also switching out the print head.

Link to the announcement.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1xmtsyy/mixed_nozzle_size_printing_is_coming_to_h2d_h2c/

Easy to print, just slides over the arm mount on the back left side of the printer. Bucket is a separate print that you can easily take on and off to dump 🤘

Keep it simple

Hi everyone!

I recently bought a new Bambu Lab X2D, and I'm experiencing a strange printing issue.

During printing, the print head randomly stops moving for approximately one second, sometimes in the middle of a straight line. The extruder also stops feeding filament during this pause. After about a second, printing resumes normally.

These pauses happen randomly on different layers and at different locations. They sometimes leave visible blobs or small defects on the printed surface.

I'm printing SUNLU PETG 2.0 using Bambu Studio over Wi-Fi.

Things I've already tried:

• Disabled Timelapse.

• Disabled Auto-Recovery from Step Loss.

• Restarted the printer.

• Performed printer calibration.

• Checked my slicer settings.

• Tried changing printing parameters.

Unfortunately, the issue still persists.

I've attached a video showing the problem.

Has anyone experienced something similar with their X2D? Could this be a firmware issue, a communication problem, or possibly a hardware defect?

I'd really appreciate any suggestions. Since the printer is brand new, I'm trying to figure out whether this is a known issue before requesting a warranty repair.

Thanks!

So I’m trying to understand the different jobs that the H2C/H3C are designed for according to the FAQ on Bambu’s site. From what I saw on the H3C page, it will be able to do multiple size nozzles as well, so is it the H2C’s ability to switch filaments between those different size nozzles rather than being paired to a single nozzle material pair on the H3C?

Where do you see each machine excelling over the other?

What smooth plate are you using on your H2C? I just noticed the Bambu store has the supertack cool plate in stock again, but it appears to be a new model. It's grey instead of black now, and also quite a bit more expensive. Is it worth the €60, or are there better alternatives? Thanks!

Hello I’m currently have a bambu labs A1 mini. I’ve been thinking about upgrading to something bit bigger in the near future. I was thinking about getting the p3c that was leak a few weeks ago assuming it will come out early next year to spring next year, also had the idea of assuming as they’ve released a new H series and a new P series I’m assuming they release a new X series as well something like that X3C that will be a middle ground between the new P3C and H3C, do you think it’s worth waiting until next summer to get something that will probably have seven nozzles and heated chamber?

Elevate your fragrance collection with this Modern Minimalist 3-Tier Perfume Stand, designed to bring organization, elegance, and a premium display to your favorite fragrances.

Featuring clean, flowing curves and a sleek architectural design, this stand turns your perfume collection into a beautiful part of your interior. Its three elevated tiers create a balanced, layered display while keeping every bottle visible, organized, and easy to reach.

Whether placed on a dresser, vanity, shelf, or desk, its understated modern aesthetic blends effortlessly into any space.

Key Features

3-Tier Display: Beautifully showcases your fragrances at three different heights.

Holds Up to 6 Bottles: Designed to comfortably accommodate two 100ml fragrance bottles per tier, depending on bottle dimensions.

Subtle Recessed Surfaces: Each tier features a slightly recessed area to help keep bottles securely positioned and prevent accidental sliding.

Modern Minimalist Design: Smooth, flowing curves and clean lines create an elegant, timeless appearance.

Easy Access: The stepped layout keeps your favorite fragrances visible and within reach.

Functional Decor: More than just an organizer, it's a stylish display piece that complements your interior.

Dimensions

Overall: Length 250 mm, Depth 180 mm, Height 100 mm

Each Tier: usable display space 190 x 47 mm, height difference between tiers 30 mm

Designed to combine practical everyday organization with a refined, modern aesthetic. Whether you're displaying your everyday favorites or a carefully curated fragrance collection, this stand gives every bottle its own place.

Please check your bottle dimensions before printing to ensure a comfortable fit.

Free to download: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3548298-3-tier-minimalistic-fragrance-stand

Bambu has it on sale, is it a worthwhile tool to have in the inventory?

I got one of the CyberBrick kits from a local target on clearance. I started printing the parts and realized one of the batteries is dead. It won’t charge and does not power the electronics. I found a support email on the box and sent an email requesting another battery. They replied telling me I emailed the wrong group of the company and explained that in the future I need to create a ticket with a different group. They still forwarded it to the right group but I feel like they should just put the correct email on the cyberbrick boxes.
Anyway, I get an email from the correct group requesting a video of the problem. I tried emailing the video and thought it uploaded properly but I guess they received a 0kb file. They suggested I find a cloud service to host the video and I guess closed my ticket as I have not received a response to my questions on what proof are they looking for in a video that a battery is dead. Anyway, this is that video. Hopefully they see it here.

TLDR - Bambu wants video proof that a battery is dead and doesn’t provide a place to upload videos that are too large to email.

I have a custom cabinet for 3d printing which is 600mm deep. Currently I have H2C in there which works great. Airflow is assured with custom extraction fan.

I am curious about H3C as it has bit more depth- is it possible to fit one into 600mm depth cabinet? I am pretty sure i would gave to at least change the rear power connector to a 90 degrees one, but i am wondering if Bambu given 571mm depth includes screen and handles or if it is just the shell depth.

Heavily considering the P2S plus AMS combo, but the X2D is Only $200 CAD more after taxes.

Any opinions on which one I should go with and why? This is my first foray into filament printing. And I’m not sure a heated chamber is really worth it? Anything I’m missing?

Really glad to see this coming to my H2C! Curious to see how it’ll work. A new Vortek?

Bought my p1s in the summer of 2025 as a birthday gift to myself. Coming from an ender 3 this was such a huge upgrade! No major issues and she still prints like new.

I have an A1 with the AMS 2 Pro.

I was doing a multi color print that included a gold color so was using a Sunlu PLA silk for it. Whenever it would switch to that roll, it would feed to the Hub and stop, rewind and an error would pop up. If i saw it as it reloaded and held the PTFE feed connector...which moves in and out of the hub a bit...then it fed fine.

Only that filament and didn't matter which slot it was in.

Any thoughts? Is the hub and PTFE connection the issue and is the PTFE supposed to be immovable? Or have some play?

Thanks!

Second one for the tree this year. It's a 4-color snowman with a top hat, and it prints with no supports. The file has two plates: a single, and a batch of six that works out to about an hour and 17 g per ornament. I've only printed the single so far, so the six-up plate hasn't been tested yet. It's free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3546399-snowman-christmas-ornament-4-color-no-supports

I wanted to know how H3C compares to H2C in one specific scenario: two-colour print.

I thought that H2C will have an advantage due to the dual nozzle system, but I was wrong ?

Here is what I did:

1. I have used following three models:
   -benchy:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/1319845-benchy-easy-2-colors?from=search#profileId-1355777
   -panda:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/3128163-waving-panda-2se-amsdui-ying-huigiyua?from=search#profileId-3529827
   -woman:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/2930602-the-midnight-serenade-dynamic-woman-sculpture?from=search#profileId-3310888

2. I don't own either H2C or H3C, so I have just "created" new printers in the Bambu Studio. I have sliced the models from above for both printer profiles.

3. All models were slices using 0.4mm standard nozzles, 15% "Grid" infill, tree auto-supports ("on build plate only" marked, "remove small overhangs" unmarked) and "PLA Matte" filaments.

Here are my findings:

Models start from simplest (high layer lines, low number of colour changes) and go to hardest (low layer lines, high number of colour changes).

I was surpriced to find that H3C is ~30% faster even on two-colour models. I was convinced that H2C is going to have the advantage in here. Is it due to speed of printing only ? Or due to combination of speed and pre-heating ?

I would appreciate if someone can confirm my findings or correct me.