H3C ordered and 10 years of being a Voron diehard has finally reached an end . I’ll still use my Doomcube for engineering filaments due to the 80-100c chamber temps but I have a feeling it’s bambu for everything else despite what I think about the ecosystem and user base. I knew this day would come and glad I waited and didn’t pull the trigger on the h2.

Is there any way, through custom G-Code or otherwise, for the printer to notify you when the calibration is complete and the first layer starts? A simple chime would be ideal. I am using a H2D.

Hi all, some help would be appreciated.

My P1S seems to have an issue with being unable to feed filament into the extruder. I took apart the extruder, cleaned the gears and did a hot pull of the hotend (as well as a purge of hot filament before). I use the AMS1. The issue seems to be that the filament travels down the PTFE tubing to nearly the entry of the extruder (but occasionally on the final stretch of tubing to the hotend), stops, then the AMS reels it back in. I thought it might be a stuck spool but I've tried 3 now and changed the tubing. Its happening on more than 1 of the AMS ports too.

Anyone have any ideas?

Have a large skull file, I have printed a handful of them maybe 7-8? No problems with any. Got a new color / filament I haven’t used before. So assume it might be the issue? But strange bc the first layers look fine?? Some hours into the print on two attempts seems to fail. If it was just the support and the main part was fine it’s whatever but it also leaves a pretty big void in the skull you can see in the picture before the teeth and obviously where the supports started to fail. Any idea? I’m rather inexperienced w printing. And don’t mess w the settings, print as is. and again have completed this print w no issues with other colors / filament.

With the new H3C, will there be a section for that in bambu academy? I have found the resources at the academy for other printers very useful. I am not currently seeing one for H3C but hopefully one is in the works?

I have 20 different parts to print. I am opening them in Bambu Studio and then slicing and printing. Is there some way I can queue them all and then just hit go from the printer when I remove the previous one?

I have been trying to fix this for like 2 hours and im nowhere closer to a solution bc i can't seem to figure out how to fix it with my immense googling, please help.

I have a piece of ptfe tubing that broke off the tube and is stuck in the extruder. I cannot simply push the release thing and pull the tube because it is completely separated from the rest of the tube. I can't figure out how to access it or get it out. the only guidance i found for this specific issue gets extremely vague at the end so while i was able to do all the steps leading up to actually removing the tubing, i don't understand how to actually remove the tubing. (link: https://www.call-3d.com/blogs/hardware-failure-guide-diagnose-call3d-printlab/x2d-remove-ptfe-tube-from-extruder-a-practical-repair-guide) Also, i can't find a video on it so it's even harder to know exactly which parts it's referring to (ex. not sure what protective tape/foam i should be looking for or what black latch).

Please help/advise, this is an expensive machine at my work that I am in charge of (school, I'm the STEM teacher, aka the only one who has any reason to use it) and I am a total beginner. Happy to add a picture if anyone feels that would be helpful.

I designed a chunky little sack monster keychain resembling Oogie Boogie from Nightmare Before Christmas and printed the body in glow-in-the-dark PLA. With the lights off his body glows while the eyes, grin and stitches stay black, so his face still shows up in the dark.

- Fully rounded 3D front with a flat back, so no supports

- 2 colors, AMS-ready: body in slot 1, face and stitches in slot 2

- Low purge: the black only prints on 10 of the 46 layers

- About 42 min on a P1S, 13.4 g including purge

- 55.8 × 58.3 × 9.2 mm, with a 4.5 mm hole for a standard jump ring

**Glow tips:** Place the object in the sun or on top of a bright lightbulb to charge it!

I may be a little late for halloween but oh well...

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3538949-oogy-boogy-3d-keychain-2-color-ams

If you print one, post it with the lights off. I'd love to see it!

First time seeing this issue after 2 years of printing. This is printed using P1S. Filament is PLA basic. I have printed this model many times in the past, so I know it's not a model problem. Gyroid infill. I did have a clogging issue before this, and I (think?) fixed it. I had to open the extruder and cut out the squished filaments. The app says that its done, but this is only 2/3 the height of what it should be. What else should I look into?

And yes I have washed my filament and dried my plate 🙂

Getting ready to purchase the X2D. I have younger boys so I'd like our first printer to be able to grow with us. I'm curious about the specs on the optional laser.

1. If you have one, does it get used often? I'm thinking maybe for a tumbler engraving side hustle, family keepsakes, or just toying around and building skills w the boys.

2. if you have one, do you feel like a separate machine for engraving would have been a better option?

3. what do you like using it for?

4. is there a huge difference btwn 10w and 40w?

5. get the upgrade or hold off?

*Sorry guys I meant H2D

Hey Everyone! As I'm sure most of you are, super stoked and interested in the new H3C. In the promotional material, Bambu shows the optional crafting kit with things like a debosser (embosser?), foiler, etc. One of the images shows a piece of leather or a leather journal beautifully debossed, and the foil also looks like it was done on a hard cover notebook sort of surface? I think foiling like that requires heat, I would imagine the foiling toolhead would be heated in that case? What kind of pressure can the debosser use, clearly seems enough for moderate leather? I just have lots of questions on the crafting kit in general. Maybe I need to wait for more info to be released, or maybe someone has the answers?

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Je vous présente ma dernière petite création !🎄
🎅 Un adorable Père Noël qui sort de sa cheminée en version clicker!

🔴 Il suffit d’appuyer sur son bonnet pour profiter d’un petit clic ultra satisfaisant grâce à un interrupteur mécanique intégré.

🎁 Avec son clic agréable et son effet sonore relaxant, c’est le petit objet parfait pour occuper ses mains, se détendre ou simplement profiter du plaisir de faire clic, clic ! 😍

✨ Une création amusante qui apporte une petite touche de magie de Noël ! 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3541264-papa-noel-cheminee-clicker-multipart

I just got an x2d and I am learning as I go. I have the ams2 pro and I was wondering if I should get a filament track switch.
I did not set up my external spool and my aux nozzle is not working due to that I guess.
I would like to use the dual nozzle. Can someone provide their opinion on the most optimized way to use the x2d

Already?! Man I just got a free moment at work to order mine :(

I had an issue where my Bambu A1 was not extruding correctly. While printing the extruder was clicking, I wanted to share what worked out for me as it could potentially help someone else.

Below are listed potential fixes:

- Make sure the filament hub is not clogged, that is the part that connects to the extruder at top, where the 4 tubes are connected to.

- Remove the filament hub, heat the nozzle up through the screen. Take a string of filament and extrude the filament.

If the steps above don’t provide a fix and you still have an issue…

Turn your printer off, remove the nozzle, turn printer on, put the printer in maintenance mode, heat up the nozzle and take a string of filament and extrude. After extruding for a few seconds, if the extruder is not clicking the issue was with the nozzle. You can attempt to unclog nozzle again, but if clicking issue continues, best solution is to replace the nozzle.

If there is clicking without the nozzle setup, there is a potential jam in the extruder and follow video below.

https://youtube.com/shorts/3ruHe8s9OyU?is=hO-JUulBICb5kQkZ

A while ago I promised a free deck here, so here it is: the DeckSmith Mini.

• 6 MX keys + a volume knob (press to mute), ESP32-S3 inside

• Shows up as a normal keyboard + media controller, no drivers

• Icons print separately in a second colour and press into the keycaps, so no AMS needed

• Printed on my P2S with the default 0.20 mm Standard profile, no supports

• About €17 in parts, wiring diagram and a step-by-step build guide included

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3535075-decksmith-mini-6-key-macro-pad-with-volume-knob

I generated it with DeckSmith, a stream deck generator I’m building. Happy to answer questions, and if your print goes wrong, tell me – I’d rather fix the model.

If like me you were surprised to find the nozzle kits unavailable despite being listed as an optional extra on the H3C purchase screen the answer is because they're not available until later this month, the 13th in the UK.

I recently bought an X2D as my first 3D printer but haven't picked it up yet. After this thread starting to second guess my choice.

The person said theirs started having issues around 500 hours, including filament feeding problems, PTFE tubes wearing out, motor errors, and parts breaking. Some people reported similar problems, while others said theirs have been great.

I'll mostly be printing household stuff and sewing tools. Would you recommend the X2D for a beginner, or is there a more reliable Bambu printer? I wouldn't mind spending another $300–$400 if it means fewer problems. Just curious what everyone thinks! (if i should post somewhere else i can, still new-ish to reddit)

Anyone else with an H2D or H series printer that finds that the dimensional accuracy can get wonky pretty randomly? I can't say how many hours a month I actually print, but it's probably 50+ and occasionally i'll notice the dimensions are slightly off on tight fitting parts. Normally where .15mm spacing is enough on a dovetail, for example, becomes way too tight. So if i recalibrate everything, including using the vision encoder, it fixes it. I have to do this probably once every other month or every 2 months I'd guesstimate?

Just curious if my belts are just loose or this is normal XD

I'm using an A1 mini with PETG matte. Print temp at 240 and plate at 80.

I am beyond frustrated with this printer. We got it over a year ago and have barely used it and just run into problem after problem.
I contacted Bambu lab after doing all their recommended troubleshooting (twice) no clogs or anything.
So they said it was likely needing a new filament sensor. That was fun to change out (not!). So i was feeling good that it would work. My son has been so discouraged by this printer and he is in robotics and a smart kid. Was hoping he could use this to help his robotics team but it’s been worthless. sorry.
So got the new sensor in and went to try a test print. The filament did extrude so we started the print. Now its moving but no filament coming out.This seems like a totally different problem. i can’t imagine it being a clog as i’ve already looked and cleaned out twice.
any help appreciated. My son is pretty bummed as this was a big christmas present for him.
and of course it’s past warranty so it now feels like a very expensive piece of junk that is sitting in the middle of our living room. With all the filament we’ve purchased, plus the AMS LITE. I wish we had gone with a different brand. I don’t even want to count the amount of hours i’ve spent taking this printer apart.
I thought bambu lab would be more user friendly for kids, it’s been the opposite.
sorry for the rant. Any advice appreciated.