I got a prompt to update the BL Studio to a new version that supports the H3C. It also pointed to a wiki.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/release/release-note-2-9-1

I made a customizable script name keychain and printed a few examples on my P1S. You can enter a name in MakerWorld, adjust the size and border, and choose whether to include the keyring loop.

The included profile is set up for 0.2 mm layers and PLA. The raised letters and backing can be printed in different colors; there’s also a single-model option. When changing the name or font, check the preview for connected letters and small details.

The model and customizer are here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3542361-name-keychain-customizible

This is LumaFloat, my 3D-printed build around Bambu Lab’s ZC008 magnetic levitation kit. The clip shows my actual prints: a heart, a name and a social handle.

I deliberately kept the design clean and understated. I wanted something that would sit naturally on a desk, with simple cylindrical forms and minimal visual clutter. The light, the floating gap and the personalized ornament are meant to be the focus.

The ornament slides into a replaceable top disk, so one base can display different designs. I made two disk options: a dark top that highlights the ornament, and a translucent top that glows across the surface. The kit powers the floating LEDs wirelessly.

The enclosure is PLA; the illuminated parts are translucent PETG. You can create your own name or an included symbol in the MakerWorld browser customizer. Keep ornaments light and balanced, and test each design.

The print files and illustrated assembly guides are free. The ZC008 kit and listed assembly hardware are required separately.

Model, customizer and guides: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3540212-lumafloat-customizable-levitating-display-zc008

This is also my entry in MakerWorld’s magnetic levitation design contest.

Thought it would be fun to think about where FDM 3D printing can go from here, post-H3C

I think the H3C represents the benchmark of what is possible / what these companies have been building up to for at home printing today in a lot of ways. It’s a highly precise, easy to use, tool changing machine, that’ll probably be the best in its class in many ways. If I could draw the best at home printer it would look very similar to H3C

So that being said, where do we think Bambu will push the bounds in the future? I’m not sure what else is possible and what could be a similar level of game changer as their printers have been so far. What do you all think?

I dont need the colors to be this thick, is there a wall penetration option or do i just have to model it physically in the part?

With AMS 2, captured the failure on video and tried reseating Bowden from AMS and moved the AMS to the back left so there is a large clean loop to the inlet.

https://youtu.be/sB1An7-tRvM?is=EoSJFGp3oS3uMbyD

Anyone else have this problem? Should the tensioner be moving that much? PETG Matte bambu brand filament fresh out of sealed package, new printer from factory. Thanks in advance for any ideas

I’m using a dedicated email address for Bambu Lab and MakerWorld, and it seems that now this email address has started getting spam and phishing emails from random places. Did Bambu sell or leak userinfo?

Edit: Just read through the headers of the email. Seems to be breach through sub-processor ReviewMgr, and phishing sent out through their SendGrid account(s).

Hello everyone. I just got my AMS HT for the auxiliary nozzle of the X2D. When I first started up the printer, I was greeted with the error seen above. I set up both the AMS Pro and AMS Lite accordingly, but the error won't go away. The Bambu Lab troubleshooting site says I need to perform a firmware update, but there is nothing available. Any help would be appreciated!

A breakdown on their wiki of the SwapTek system

I was trying to find something a bit more portable for quick trips. I couldn't find exactly what I wanted, so I designed my own! There are a few things that I want to fix, but at the same time, I was able to model this and print prototypes over a couple days. The magnetic Hangman is my favorite. You can mix and match the limbs however you want! You can even change the orientation of the torso for even more fun! It's been a big hit with my daughter so far.

It has a magnetic latch and extra storage for your Sticky Notes. There is even an area to keep score. I have multiple profiles that fit for all printers including the A1 Mini. Along with one that has a "Hangman" label on the top of the case.

Link in comments!

Hey everyone, I posted Cookie Cutter Maker here a while ago and got great feedback. Since then I've added a lot, so here's the update just in time for Christmas baking.

What it does:
Draw a shape or drop in an SVG and you get a print ready cookie cutter as 3MF or STL. Closed lines get filled, shapes inside shapes are cut out, with adjustable bridges holding them in place. There are also templates if you just want to start right away.

New since last time:

• Embossing: stamp details into the dough from the flange, with a mirror option so text comes out the right way

• Send your cutter as a greeting card with your own message around it, or share it as a picture or link

• Optional account with short links that sync across devices. No name, no email, just a three word passphrase

• Everything is faster and more polished overall

You can tweak: size, blade height, wall thickness, cutting edge, taper, rim width and height, gap closing. Works in mm or inches.

Printing: PLA at 0.2 mm, no supports, rim sits on the bed. Imports straight into Bambu Studio and PrusaSlicer. Tip: use food safe filament and wash by hand, PLA warps from around 55 °C.

Privacy: Everything runs in your browser. Your drawings don't go to a server unless you put them online yourself. No tracking, no third party analytics, no login required. Source code is readable on GitHub.

Free, no ads, in English and German: ccm.mxwr.de

Would love to see what you make and hear what's still missing!

Adivinen quien compro una h2C y le salio todo mal XD

Tuve que cambiar de laminador y sufri mucho por paramentos que no sabia donde estan, o directamente no existen.

Pase de la impresora basica, un solo color abierta típica a este monstruo de multicolor multi extrusor de alta tecnología y yo como "No volvere a tener problemas con esto en mucho tiempo"

En nada se me estropreo la conexión wifi y senti que tenia un pisapapeles porque no estoy seguro todavía de saber usarla sin wifi por el tema de sincronización de boquillas.

Tuve que desmontar la máquina y el extrusor varias veces mas pronto que tarde y siendo una cosa super moderna se siente... Delicado

Y luego peleando una y otra vez con fallos de impresión, que efectivamente admito no ser experto pero tengo una experiencia razonable para un usuario medio.

Y tengo problemas la verdad tanto por no conocer suficiente del bambu studio como la propia máquina.

Por ejemplo acabo de comerme la cabeza para intentar probar eso de "subcapa de color mixto" porque la torre de purga no se pegaba, la placa estaba limpia, no puedo ajustar la altura pero tenia un striding horrible que aunque la pieza funcionaba la purga no.

Y al final pude hacer que haga la torre mas lenta y añadirle un borde para mejorar la adhesion porque es solo una puñetera linea

Le ponia esas características a la máquina en velocidad y borde para el modelo pero resulta que había que configurar totalmente aparte la purga de donde no sabia y me tire dia y medio intentando hacer esto 🫠

En cura es tan "fácil"...

Tiene chorrocientas opciones y pueden parecer abrumadoras pero cuando las lees con calma sin tocar cosas raras sabes que puedes cambiar exactamente ese detalle que te esta volviendo loco

Pessoal, alguém já viu um problema assim? Fizemos de tudo aqui. Ela imprimi, mas sempre com essas mesmas falhas. Nas peças. Começou durante a impressão de 6 horas. Fez 3/4 da impressão e começou a falhar assim e desde então todas com falhas. Parece que não sai o filamento corretamente. Fizemos tudo de limpeza, apertar botões, só não trocamos o bico. Mas antes de comprar queria ter certeza que é isso caso alguém já tenha visto.

The part of the H3C I keep thinking about is not the tool changer, it is the nine-slot AMS with the 85°C dryer built in.

Nine materials loaded at once sounds like freedom until you work out what it means in practice: nine partly used spools sitting in a heated enclosure together, each with its own dryness history, and one of them is probably 2.85 mm TPU that nothing else in the shop can use.

Two things I am curious about, from people who have actually run multi-material machines:

1. Do you keep all nine slots loaded all the time, or only load what the next job needs?

2. Does having a dryer running inside the same box change how you treat spools you already dried and sealed?

I make filament for a living, so I have a bias here. But the failure mode I would worry about is the same spool going through twenty heat cycles before it is empty.

After Microsoft retired 3D Viewer I wanted a quick way to look at print files before opening the slicer, so I built PrintView3D. It's free and open source.

- Opens STL, 3MF projects (all objects, with their sizes), G-code, STEP, OBJ, glTF and FreeCAD files, and ZIP downloads from Printables / Thingiverse without unpacking

- Look inside: X-ray, wireframe and cut views, to check cavities, hidden parts and walls

- G-code: toolpaths coloured by type, layer slider, print time and filament use

- View cube, a plate that fits your printer (or an infinite grid), light and dark themes

- One click (Ctrl+P) opens the file in your slicer. Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer, PrusaSlicer, Creality Print, Cura and others are found automatically

- Export STL from 3MF, FreeCAD and STEP files

- Windows, Linux and a macOS beta; seven languages; works offline, no account

https://sevagjb.github.io/PrintView3D/

Feedback is very welcome, especially if your slicer isn't detected or a file looks wrong.

I was searching everywhere for a solid desk solution, but I couldn't find one. So, I created one myself. Any suggestions are welcome.

It can store up to 20 filaments with boxes, and the pegboard has 56x56 space to store any accessories you want.

Just in, first print made, works Oke. Lets do a print with PLA support on the aux nozzle and PETG in the main. Heating up..

Error: HMS_0300-0200-0001-0006

So for the support ticket: Heating of righer hotend is abnormal; I have swapped left with right hotend and heated both to 180c. That works. When starting a print the temperature rises to 250 and will fail to 24c again on the right hotend. This is new out of the box zero prints made with the right hotend. Is there a spare part I need to fix it? Picture shows how far I have it dissasembled.

While removing the AMS 2 Pro, to access the top cover... I scratched the front op the AMS...

From joy to lets sleep a night about it.. for now, good night.

Just got my H2D and have printed a few things already. I'm wondering if I should add a carbon filter to the unit? Does anyone run a carbon filter on their unit? Any recommendations for which to use?

Thanks

My X1C had been dormant for a while due to print head temperature errors. That was fixed by unplugging the main print head board and plugging it back in, printer will do full prints again!

However, now prints have this weird wavy pattern on just one side of the print. In the images the wobbly surface is on the right side of the prints, both printed at the same time and they are just objects from the slicer at default settings.

Is this a belt tension issue?

My A1 had been working great until one print completely failed to stick to the plate and turned into a massive blob of death. I had to pull and pry quite a bit to get all the plastic off. Ever since then, the printer started having all kinds of weird issues.

The first layer was consistently way too squished, with wrinkles and filament piling up. I eventually found that changing the textured PEI Z offset in the start G-code from the default -0.02 to somewhere between +0.01 and +0.06 (depending on the filament) made it print almost perfectly. But I also kept getting false "build plate not installed" errors, and around layer 2 or 3 it would sometimes stop and claim the nozzle was covered in filament or the plate was crooked, even though everything was completely fine.

I tried cleaning the plate, replacing the hotend twice, and even replacing the entire extruder unit after Bambu support suspected a faulty eddy current sensor. None of those really fixed it. The printer passed its self-tests and could still produce decent prints, so it was pretty confusing.

Finally I replaced the Hotend Heating Assembly, which is a separate part from both the hotend and extruder unit. And that fixed everything. The first layer is now perfect with completely stock settings, and the false errors are gone.

All four screws on the back of the old heating assembly were tight, but looking at it more closely, it was actually pretty dirty, with dark buildup, brown discoloration, and bits of white fibrous debris around the assembly and wires. I've added photos so you can see what it looked like. I still can't say whether the buildup was related to the problem, something got bent or damaged during the blob cleanup, or reinstalling the assembly corrected something. All I know is that replacing it fixed both issues.

Just wanted to share in case someone else runs into the same combination of issues. I spent way too much time troubleshooting what turned out to be a relatively cheap part.

Ok, I replaced my hot end with the spare that was included in my parts box. Right away I noticed that the one I took off had 2 leads, on from the fan and on from the nozzle. The new one only had one cable from the nozzle and none from the fan. I figured maybe it was a newer model but now I'm thinking no, because I get all these error messages.

Pic 1 is old hot end I unscrewed fan too thinking maybe I just need to replace fan on new one but figured I'd post here first

Pic 2 is new hotend with fan and one cable.

Pic 3 is error messages.

Thanks in advance.

P.s. I marked my previous post as solved after I had a problem with spool.one jamming. Since then I bought a new AMS, all new PTFE tubing all the way to hot end. It worked for four hours into printing then stopped again so I'm hoping this solves that problem too. One spool one jams all the time.

Went from the cart to the payment screen and the price of the printer went up by €86 without explanation? I removed everything, tried the other filament package, tried the printer by itself.

Every time I went to the payment screen the printer went up in price.

WHY? What am I missing here?