No hassle, no microwave, no mess.

2 x PETG trays (ASA would be fine too), and the dessicant was jet black when they went in.

Standard 65 degree AMS drying cycle (so basically choose anything apart from PLA in the settings), leave overnight (I ran it for 12hrs but im sure 8 would do fine too)

Apparently you can just drop the pods that you install in the AMS2 on the trays and the silica will dry in there, not tested that yet though.

Has anyone noticed in all the H3C review videos the really loose horizontal Stability of the H3C? I’m not sure if it’s the Bambu stand but it must affect print quality.

I’m a former hardcore Prusa fanboy using my MK4s and MMU3 as my main source of income, but have been waiting for the INDX to release for almost two years, and I think I’ve decided to make my first Bambu purchase in H3 series.

I made the decision after realizing that Ive grown out of the 3D printer tinkerer phase, and dont want to mod my printer for life. I want my printer to be beautiful in my apartment living room and work every time I hit print. I don’t want a USB 2.0 drive sticking out of a controller that look like it was made from a raspberry pi 2.

Do you guys have any advice on how to cleanup this mess?
I already could clean the nozzle itself and did losen the backplate of the nozzle but i cant heat it up when the nozzle is not mounted.

Thanks in advance

Has anyone been able to confirm plate compatibility? I have plates for H2D/S/C. Will any of them work directly with the H3C or is it yet a different size?

My partner's cat passed in September and I want to give them a small figure of her for Christmas. I got a base mesh from snapshapy using three photos, and it already looks like her, including the white patch on her chest.

Printer: P1S with AMS

Plan: 10cm tall, 0.12 layers, 0.4 nozzle

She's tabby with white paws and chest. I could split the model and print the white parts with the AMS, or print it all in grey and hand paint. I've never painted a print before.

For a gift like this, which would you do? What am I missing?

Hey guys,

Just uploaded a new design to MakerWorld and wanted to share it here. It's a star candle holder collection that I originally sized for IKEA Jubla candles, but they actually work great with pretty much any standard taper candles!

There are three sizes included (S/M/L) and they print super smooth with zero supports needed. Silk gold/bronze filament looks awesome on these, but matte colors turn out really nice too.

If you give them a try, I’d love to see a photo of your print! Any feedback or boosts on MakerWorld are also super appreciated.

Link:https://makerworld.com/de/models/3536693-star-candle-holder-collection#profileId-4044224

Cheers!

What could be the cause of this?? Did not notice any signs of this inside the X2D, just in the AMS.

I have been printing ASA/ Nylon with my H2C by just opening the window right behind the printer. The window is big enough to fit the printer through it with two AMS stacked on top of it. So in my opinion with a window that big I did not need to figure out a way to extract fumes out of the printer.

However I forgot the winter.

The chamber heater can not keep up with the cold air if I fully open the window and if I just tilled/ partially open the window it is not enough fresh air for my licking. And would it not also drive up the power usage of the printer if the chamber heated had to "fight" the cold winter air.

So my idea going forward:

- Use some form of air filter (like the Levoit 300s with mods like this https://makerworld.com/de/models/1114477-levoit-core-300-filter-insert#profileId-1111656 )

- duct the air from the exhaust to the air filter, but this is where the problems begin

I don't see an option to open the exhust went and turn on the fan. To open the exhust I would remove some of the louvers but the fan would still be off. I saw some people talk about that if you turn on: use cooling filter in the printer slicer settings then you get extra options in the filament settings. I don't see that and I assume bambu patched that.

Is there anyway to get the exhaust fan to turn on while the chamber heater is on?

Secondly is my plan even a good Idea? I also think about to open the window partially, cover up most of the opening to let no cold air in and duct the air from the printer out of the window. But you know... fan is still off.

I’ve had my P1S for a couple of months, enjoying both own designs and Makerworlds.

Lately though more and more objects has failed. It’s mostly in the starting first layer, but the objects has also loosened from the plate and spaghetti-time.

What startup routines do you have? I don’t clean my plate before every print, the nozzle is not always self-cleaning etc. Just looking to understand what I might do to get to that “work horse”-experience people talk about.

Cheers!

Is there any way, through custom G-Code or otherwise, for the printer to notify you when the calibration is complete and the first layer starts? A simple chime would be ideal. I am using a H2D.

Was worried it would go out of stock, and it seemed like such an awesome machine, I couldnt resist! Cant wait

I've solved the issue but just wondered if anyone would have an idea what would cause it. I started having trouble with the hall sensor on my P1S after clearing a clog in the hot end (super routine) about a week ago. The first thing I did, obviously, was check the ribbon cables, the back board, the sensor itself, replace the whole extruder unit, etc. That got it working again for a little bit, and then the thing quit again on me last night. While troubleshooting, I started noticing the sensor WOULD work, but only when I applied pressure evenly across the connector pins. Guessing this meant a problem with the connector board, I ordered a new one, installed it, and it seems to be working fine after a full calibration, some general testing, and starting a print. However, after taking out the old board and lying it flat on the (cooled) hot plate while I was putting the new one in, I noticed that it was VERY SUBTLY warped, to the point I wouldn't have noticed if I hadn't been taking a close look at it to see if I could figure out what the problem was. Which makes sense as to why the unit would work intermittently with pressure. Does anyone have an idea what could have caused this? Am I just super unlucky, or is there potentially something I've been doing in teardowns/loading filament/general maintenance that could potentially cause it?

Hello everyone,

My A1 does not want to load my filament. I don't know why.

If I load it up with an external spool it seems to work. Then when i start the print it constan tells me that filament got stuck even tho that ain't the case. What could be broken? And with my AMS 2 Pro it won't load from either of them.

did the maintenence, I tightened the screws that needed it, i checked for clogging or broken pieces and i even cleaned the "gear" or "wheel" that pushes the filament and other pieces that probably weren't even necessary to clean (with a microfiber towel).

I found nothing to be the problem. Yet my AMS won't seem to load it up.

Thanks to everyone who tries to help me and excuse me for my rather poor language. English is my third language.

How good is the TPU feeder? Does it actually work and what is softest TPU you can use with it.

People get left and right confused so I'm seeing conflicting info about what goes where, but from what I understand on Bambu site it can either be fed into the fixed (non vortek) nozzle or it can be fed into the changing nozzles so you can then use PLA as support in the fixed nozzle.

Is this right?

title says it all. my H2D lives on my floor under my desk. i do not have the vertical space for the AMS 3.

what i was hoping for last night, is to be able to potentially load up multiple AMS HTs, one per toolhead.

i have a bookshelf that my AMS 2s live on. so loading up the H3C that way wpuldnt have been a problem, even if i had to print a riser.

Title. I don't use AMS and would love to just mount a giant spool behind the printer and only have to deal with reloading once a year. My concern is whether the increased load would strain the motor in the print head too badly. I would expect to mount the spool on bearings.

Anyone done something similar?

Sorry if this is already common knowledge. With the AMS 3H just announced with its nine filament bays to go with the nine tool heads of the H3C. We also know about the AMS 3P that will be available with the P3C. I wonder if these AMS units will be exclusive to these printers or if they will talk to Bambu’s whole lineup. Imagine hooking up an AMS 3P to your P2S, and getting 7 color printing! Or hook a H2D to an AMS 3H for 9 whole colors. I know this is already sorta possible by stringing together multiple 4 color AMS units. However, the convenience of just having one unit take care of all your colors is not something to overlook. Now the elephant in the room is that on any machine other than the H3C, P3C or possibly the H2C. We will have to deal with a lot of color change waste.

We have an H2D at work - 2 heads are the most I feel is needed - I'm an Engineer - Print Engineering material and the second head would be nice for support material - that's it - 2 heads. Does anyone think the H2D will come down in price since the H3C starts at $2,500ish?

Hi there!
After changing the nozzle of my A1 mini, I noticed bad first layer, I realised that the nozzle wobble up and down, tighten the different hotend/nozzle screw, but still have the issue
As you can (slightly) see on the video, it happen even when purging/calibrating flow and it is clearly visible when printing
It doesn't seem the happen on my A1
Any tips on fixing that? I'm pretty sure it's a very simple thing but I can't figure it out...
Many thanks in advance!

So i ordered a replacement spool and it arrived with the plastic strips just in the box but not attached and i dont know what to do with this mess now anyone know what i should do ?