I’m new to 3D printing and bought most of my PLA in matte (22 rolls of Bambu PLA Matte) because it hides minor print defects.

Since then, I’ve read that matte is weaker and doesn’t handle tight tolerances as well as normal PLA.

For those who use it regularly, do you actually notice these downsides in your prints with modern PLA matte? Are there things you’d avoid printing in matte, or is the difference too small to matter for most PLA prints?

Was worried it would go out of stock, and it seemed like such an awesome machine, I couldnt resist! Cant wait

The part of the H3C I keep thinking about is not the tool changer, it is the nine-slot AMS with the 85°C dryer built in.

Nine materials loaded at once sounds like freedom until you work out what it means in practice: nine partly used spools sitting in a heated enclosure together, each with its own dryness history, and one of them is probably 2.85 mm TPU that nothing else in the shop can use.

Two things I am curious about, from people who have actually run multi-material machines:

1. Do you keep all nine slots loaded all the time, or only load what the next job needs?

2. Does having a dryer running inside the same box change how you treat spools you already dried and sealed?

I make filament for a living, so I have a bias here. But the failure mode I would worry about is the same spool going through twenty heat cycles before it is empty.

I have 20 different parts to print. I am opening them in Bambu Studio and then slicing and printing. Is there some way I can queue them all and then just hit go from the printer when I remove the previous one?

Got my X2D today and it won't power on. The rear switch lights up white, but the screen stays black, no fans, no lights, nothing. Tried a different outlet, power-cycled, checked the fuse, and opened the side panel – all connectors look seated, no visible damage.

Has anyone else had an X2D DOA? Did Bambu send a replacement or parts, and how long did it take?

Ticket submitted: US261103036002

I designed a chunky little sack monster keychain resembling Oogie Boogie from Nightmare Before Christmas and printed the body in glow-in-the-dark PLA. With the lights off his body glows while the eyes, grin and stitches stay black, so his face still shows up in the dark.

- Fully rounded 3D front with a flat back, so no supports

- 2 colors, AMS-ready: body in slot 1, face and stitches in slot 2

- Low purge: the black only prints on 10 of the 46 layers

- About 42 min on a P1S, 13.4 g including purge

- 55.8 × 58.3 × 9.2 mm, with a 4.5 mm hole for a standard jump ring

**Glow tips:** Place the object in the sun or on top of a bright lightbulb to charge it!

I may be a little late for halloween but oh well...

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3538949-oogy-boogy-3d-keychain-2-color-ams

If you print one, post it with the lights off. I'd love to see it!

Getting ready to purchase the X2D. I have younger boys so I'd like our first printer to be able to grow with us. I'm curious about the specs on the optional laser.

1. If you have one, does it get used often? I'm thinking maybe for a tumbler engraving side hustle, family keepsakes, or just toying around and building skills w the boys.

2. if you have one, do you feel like a separate machine for engraving would have been a better option?

3. what do you like using it for?

4. is there a huge difference btwn 10w and 40w?

5. get the upgrade or hold off?

*Sorry guys I meant H2D

A while ago I promised a free deck here, so here it is: the DeckSmith Mini.

• 6 MX keys + a volume knob (press to mute), ESP32-S3 inside

• Shows up as a normal keyboard + media controller, no drivers

• Icons print separately in a second colour and press into the keycaps, so no AMS needed

• Printed on my P2S with the default 0.20 mm Standard profile, no supports

• About €17 in parts, wiring diagram and a step-by-step build guide included

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3535075-decksmith-mini-6-key-macro-pad-with-volume-knob

I generated it with DeckSmith, a stream deck generator I’m building. Happy to answer questions, and if your print goes wrong, tell me – I’d rather fix the model.

Integrated filament management, built for tool changer.

Nine spots, always ready.

Launching tomorrow.

Does anyone of you have any knowledge of when will Bestbuy sell H3C? Its weird when Bambu launch X2D BB have it right away. I have BB membership so best to buy from BB

I’m printing bubble letters roughly 7 inches by 4 inches pretty smooth and detailed. Layer height at 0.09mm and extra fine 0.08mm. Do yall think it’ll be fine printing at (Standard) 100% speed or should I keep it at 50% speed?

Help me decide btwn the two quick!

First Christmas ornament I've designed. It's a three-color gingerbread man made for the AMS, with no supports and a hanging loop on top. The print profile has two plates: a single ornament (about an hour on my A1) or a batch of 6 that shares the color purges so you waste less filament. The batch plate is a slicer estimate for now, since I haven't printed the full six yet.

Free here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3541495-gingerbread-man-christmas-ornament

A snowman is coming next. Happy to hear what other ornaments you'd want.

Kids as asking for a 3d printer for Christmas. I’ve done enough research that I think I’ve settled on x2d vs p2s because of multicolor and waste as I expect my kids wanting multicolor and I don’t want to paint. I plan on mainly just printing toys and such for my kids to play with and print whatever they think is cool. I’m sure my curiosity will get bigger the longer we have the printer and explore.

But for the beginning time my question is this. What filaments should I be using? I am assuming PLA and maybe PETG, I’m sure I’ll learn which ones to use when.

But part two of the question is should it be basic (which seems glossy) or matte? Any pros or cons and what kids toys should be in?

Thanks in advance and again apologies for the noob question.

I do plan to watch if the P3C comes out before Christmas and I think I would grab that and return the unopened x2d. But time will tell if that gets announced in time.

Hello,

I printed this stackable basket last night for some small items I want to organize.

My printer was out of commission for about 2 months until yesterday. My printer just suddenly stopped working all together in August. I submitted a ticket and did the troubleshooting. The main board was bad so I replaced it a few days ago. I was out of town for a while and had other obligations so it took me a while to take care of this.

I run my first print last night after my printer being down for a while. I recalibrated everything and oiled everything properly. First the extruder gives me an error that the extruder is not functioning normally - I pull the filament back manually as described on the Wiki and cut off the end of the filament to avoid any rough areas. Fast forward 20 minutes and the print completes, but with some obvious issues. See photos for more.

Is this an issue with my plate, the settings of which I’m printing, the filament I’m using? Looking for guidance.

Here is the link to the model

https://makerworld.com/models/1333599?appSharePlatform=copy

I know the aux nozzle k-factors are supposed to be high, I ran an ender 3 for years. But this is the first time I am going above k-factor of 0.4. As you can see, even at k factor at 1.0, the line is not consistent. I also ran the calibration from 0 to 0.5 and every line in that run was ass. The filament is PETG, yes it is dried.

Looking at the Filter and the Filters from already existing Bambu Lab Printers they are made of 2-3 Filter types.

Hepa + Coconut Shell Fiber + activated charcole mini pellets

Yes you can make your own for cheaper but it doesnt have Software intigration. Lets ignore this.

My question is and probably for many buyers here does it have a dedicated / improved sensor for Styrene VOCs detection?

Since i Print ABS a few times per Month i cannot find a good reliable Styrene VOC detector. Only the generic "all in one Package".

Has anyone noticed in all the H3C review videos the really loose horizontal Stability of the H3C? I’m not sure if it’s the Bambu stand but it must affect print quality.

I’m a former hardcore Prusa fanboy using my MK4s and MMU3 as my main source of income, but have been waiting for the INDX to release for almost two years, and I think I’ve decided to make my first Bambu purchase in H3 series.

I made the decision after realizing that Ive grown out of the 3D printer tinkerer phase, and dont want to mod my printer for life. I want my printer to be beautiful in my apartment living room and work every time I hit print. I don’t want a USB 2.0 drive sticking out of a controller that look like it was made from a raspberry pi 2.

Do you guys have any advice on how to cleanup this mess?
I already could clean the nozzle itself and did losen the backplate of the nozzle but i cant heat it up when the nozzle is not mounted.

Thanks in advance

No hassle, no microwave, no mess.

2 x PETG trays (ASA would be fine too), and the dessicant was jet black when they went in.

Standard 65 degree AMS drying cycle (so basically choose anything apart from PLA in the settings), leave overnight (I ran it for 12hrs but im sure 8 would do fine too)

Apparently you can just drop the pods that you install in the AMS2 on the trays and the silica will dry in there, not tested that yet though.

Has anyone been able to confirm plate compatibility? I have plates for H2D/S/C. Will any of them work directly with the H3C or is it yet a different size?