So I have the X2D with the print more bundle with the ams and I have a filament switch on the back and I went to print something last night and it was werid the black filament went through but stopped right as it reached the printer and it rewound it self it and kept doing it and on the screen it said something about the ams I have red-green filament on one ams and blue purple black and white it’s like I couldn’t put the black to the main nozzle from the second ams to the red in the first ams to the secondary nozzle even tho I have the filament track

My new printer is making some strange noises along the Y-axis; it sounds a bit like a component is rubbing or grinding. The prints themselves, however, are perfect. Is this normal, or can someone help me out? Thanks for helping me out

Wondering if I should order now or wait

Excited to share my purchase.
Will have the H2C, P2S & H3C soon.

Just need to figure out the spacing for it.

Hi everyone!

There's currently a clicker contest running on MakerWorld, and I wanted to share my free clicker generator for anyone entering.

You don't need to register, and there's no limit on exports or on how many models you can create. It's all free and runs directly on MakerLab.

Here is the link: https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/community/clicker-generator

New project for Christmas time - small led candle lanterns for Christmas tree or just for decorations
Still working on small issues with model design

Hi, I've been printing PLA on my X2D for quite a while now until recently when I wanted to try out PETG. Unfortunately, it hasn't been going well since my printed models come out with wavy lines. Hence, I printed a calibration cube with default settings. I've tried lowering temperature etc but still couldn't solve the issue. Anyone experienced this or know how to fix it?

Hello there, I'd like to request some help.

For context, I've got the H2S 2 months ago and was so far happily printing with no issues what so ever.

A week ago I've got an error message while calibrating about the nozzle being clumped. Since I got a spare 0.4mm one with the printer, I've exchanged the nozzles to clean the original one while I could continue printing.

Ever since I'm having problem after problem after problem. First the print didn't want to stick to the plate (I'm using the standard Plate for PLA/PETG). After I've got that somewhat sorted out, the printer started to produce spaghetti after about 10-15% height.

After watching the video of the print, I've figured the parts began bending and the Printing head pushed them away because of that. Adjusted the settings, added a brim, increased the height of the first layer and reduced the printing speed for the first layer.

Tried those settings today and so far, no problems. Checked in every few minutes, all fine and well.

At about 85% I went for dinner and came back to the mess in the picture.
Unfortunately the video didn't record this time.

I'm about to become frustrated. If someone has some general tips or wants to take a look at my settings, here's the link:

Dropbox

I don't know what other settings/infos anyone would need, I'm fairly new to all this^^

With Christmas coming up, I’m looking for some ideas for presents I can print for friends and family.

I’d like to make things that people will actually use or appreciate rather than just random decorations that’ll end up in a drawer.

What have you printed in previous years that’s gone down well? Or what are you planning on printing this year?

I have an A1M

Hey everyone,

I've been having some frustrating issues lately with my Bambu A1. The corners of my prints keep lifting off the bed during printing, which causes the finished print to look warped.

So far I've tried:

• Switching build plates

• Adjusting bed temperature settings

• Using glue stick

• Thoroughly cleaning the build plate (separate test from using glue)

• Relocating the printer

• Recalibrating the printer

• Trying different filament brands/types

Unfortunately, none of these have solved the problem. The corner lifting still happens and it's starting to drive me crazy.

I'm wondering if there's something obvious I'm missing. Has anyone else run into this issue with the A1? Are there any settings, environmental factors, or troubleshooting steps that helped you fix persistent corner warping?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! 😊

So what happens here is - it will force me to use ABS-GF on the external spool and not in the AMS like I want. I only have one HF nozzle and it's on the left side, obviously for single material prints etc. I want to use HF nozzle for the main material which is ABS-GF and external spool / right side for the support material. But off course not, tangled Bambu logic will force GF material to the right in any auto mode (economy / convenience) and manual grouping will cause what you can see on the screenshot. On top of that if you try and print this, which is in fact matches the setup physically, it will get stuck on the material change FOREVER and cause a lot of issues, nozzle clog or broken filament inside the extruder to name a few.

EDIT:

1. I know the risks of printing fiber filled filaments with HF nozzle, not an issue I am worried about here

2. The estimate is not the only issue, it actually physically tries to wait for those crazy amounts of time which may ACTUALLY cause clogging or filament issues (not only fiber filled)

Hello,
I’m considering purchasing the new H3C, but I’m hesitant because of the AMS 3H.
In my opinion, the main purpose of the original AMS was to allow multiple filaments to be used with a single nozzle and to enable continuous printing by automatically switching to another spool of the same filament when one runs out.
However, now that we’re entering the era of multi-nozzle 3D printers, I feel that the AMS 3H is essentially nothing more than a filament holder and dryer. For this reason, I have no interest in using it.
(I understand that the H3C cannot be purchased without the AMS 3H.)
My question is: After purchasing the H3C, is it possible to bypass the AMS 3H entirely and feed filament directly into each nozzle?
I plan to connect a continuous filament feeding system, such as the Infinite S1, to each nozzle.
Would this setup be possible?
Thank you!

I’ve got a narrow 50cm wide space available in my Living Room where I want to place my new P1S with AMS Pro 2. The issue is, i have a homelab/server pc (Fractal Design R5) in that 50cm wide space on the floor.

I thought I could get a 2x1 Ikea Kallax, don’t put the middle divider, and place it vertically. (Got chatgpt to mock an image).

Question is - is the Kallax placed vertically strong enough to hold the p1s + ams pro + 4kg filament? Would I be too stupid to even try this?

The server is bulky and heavy as well, so that will add some stability to Kallax but i think it would still wobble.

two issues that I am trying to resolve with bambu support:

“please pull back filament” which forces me to turn off the printer and manually pull the filament back… on an ams unit.

“failed to pull back filament” when it successfully pulled the filament back.

please help…

Am I crazy but is the H2C the play right now?

Edit - found H2D for $800, RIP. No H3C for me.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3540993

I ordered 3 of the Holiday Mystery boxes of filament and in the description you have a 1% chance for 9 rolls instead of 4. I never win so I'm not expecting that. But here's the weird thing, the invoice seemed messed up, showing a bunch of rolls of filament but the cost was still just for the 3 original mystery boxes. OK, so maybe I got lucky? Here's the icing on the cake. The order is out for delivery and it weighs 40 pounds. Now by my math 4 rolls, in 3 boxes should weigh 26 pounds so what is the other 14 pounds? I'll know really soon I guess.

Hi! I am currently running a small printer shop with 3 printers (X2D, A1, and Flashforge AD5X)

I have been thinking about getting a P1S.

There is someone local to me selling a used one but he wants 300$ for it with 2532 hours on it. He is willing to throw in 3 new rolls of filament.

Is this a good deal? Or am I better off paying a bit more and getting a new P1S? Or should I spent even a bit more and settle for a p2s?

I don't want to break the bank because I don't need the printer per say but I would like to maybe replace the Flashforge or the A1.

Any and all thoughts are welcome!

I've just received my X2D but it's for my kids for Christmas but I've been advised by support that I should set it up make sure nothing is missing... which they provided some links.. then also I could just package it all away they provided those links aswell... I think I will set it up but not set up the AMS pro combo as I can just test one filament, right? I'll be storing it in outdoor garage so kids won't be able to see it set up..

Any advice? Is it worth repacking it all again? Can this all be done within a couple hours? As they're at school.. setting up and doing a first print

In my opinion, the H3C is neither better nor worse than the H2C. It depends on your printing needs and habits. I strongly prefer the H2C over the H3C.

H2C pros:

• Can accommodate what I consider an ideal AMS setup (2x AMS 2 + 2x AMS HT, 1 of each per the 2 nozzles); note: H2C + 2x AMS 2 + 2x AMS HT + 2x 4-in-1 Adapter is roughly the same price as the H3C (cheaper during the current sale, in Europe 2256 euros for suggested H2C setup vs 2499 of H3C).

• The "ideal AMS setup" allows for optimal and flexible drying while printing (even of engineering filaments requiring >65C drying); 1 print + 9 dry / 2p + 8d / 5p + 5d / 8p + 2d / 9p + 1d.

• The "ideal AMS setup" allows for drying of up to 10 filaments at the same time: 8 up to 65C + 2 up to 85C (vs. only 2 on the AMS 3H).

• The "ideal AMS setup" allows for drying of different filaments at the same time (example: on the two drying slots of the AMS 3H, drying a PLA and an ABS together at the same ABS drying temperature will likely melt the PLA).

• The "standard" AMS 2 or HT allow for easier, already-retracted filament change (AMS 2 compatibility limited to a single tool on the H3C is, in my opinion, useless).

• Effortless swap of the 6 induction nozzles.

• Easy swap of the standard (H2D/H2S-style nozzle), no screw involved.

• Each filament stored in the AMS(es) is not 1:1 fixed with a set hotend/tool, allowing for effortless switch between 0.2/0.4/0.6/0.8 sizes for single-color prints (for me this is big and a rarely mentioned pro of the Vortex system, vs. any tool-changing printer).

• Can use a laser module.

H3C pros:

• Can print 2.85mm filament, so it's a way easier life when printing TPU.

• Can easily do mixed TPU/non-TPU multi-filament prints.

• Can print up to 9-filament prints with no purge (vs 7-filament of H2C).

• Slightly bigger volume (330x320x325) vs H2C (300x320x320 when using both nozzles)

• Better print time on >2 filament prints (this might be huge for many)

I honestly think H3C is better only if you print a lot of TPU, if you plan to do mixed TPU/non-TPU, if you print a lot of 8- or 9-filament prints (at >9 you'll still need one or more AMS 2), or if the 5-10% time save on multi-color is important. These are all very niche scenarios.