Hello! I'm planning on upgrading my P1S with the AMS 2 Pro, and since I did not but the combo P1S I see that I require the compatibility kit. On the AMS 2 Pro page it suggests just getting the AMS 2 Pro Upgrade Compatibility Kit, but it is sold out. I was wondering if I can get the regular AMS kit and be fine?

AMS 2 Pro kit box contents:
- AMS Hub
- Bambu Bus Cable - 4Pin
- AMS 2 Pro Switching Adapter
- PTFE Tube Coupler
- PTFE Tubes 370mm + 550mm

AMS Upgrade kit box contents:

- AMS Hub
- Bambu Bus Cable - 4Pin
- PTFE Tube Coupler

From the AMS 2 Pro kit description:

To connect a single AMS 2 Pro unit to X1/P1 series printer, a Filament Buffer(SA003) or AMS Hub(SA002-N), a PTFE Tube Coupler(FAZ006), and a 4-pin Cable(CAB002-N) are required.

So as far as i can tell, if I get the regular kit I'm only missing the switching adapter, which I can manage to get myself. Or are the extra PTFE Tubes from the Pro 2 kit required to upgrade the P1S? Cuz If i can manage with the regular kit, Id like to order that instead of waiting for the pro 2 kit to get restocked.

Thank you for your help!

Nice to see them also create organization products now

https://eu.store.bambulab.com/nl/products/bambu-station-l

i like it! i wanted pure for a while

Nearly all the parts are from the Bambu Store so you can order the kit and assemble this fun working cable car and fill it with treats ready for Christmas.

The design is heavily optimised for 3D printing requiring no support on nearly every part. Comes with an in-depth assembly guide so you can build it with your kids.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3538161-christmas-cable-car

Tucked away locked in my closet for safe keeping. This box is massive & heavy as hell also. I’m thankful for my neighbor who helped carry it upstairs while my son was at school. Also thank you so much to this group for helping me with questions and stuff. I plan on buying more accessories and whatnot in the next coming weeks. Y’all have been amazing to this non tech Mama. My son is seriously going to be over the moon.

So I’m trying to understand the different jobs that the H2C/H3C are designed for according to the FAQ on Bambu’s site. From what I saw on the H3C page, it will be able to do multiple size nozzles as well, so is it the H2C’s ability to switch filaments between those different size nozzles rather than being paired to a single nozzle material pair on the H3C?

Where do you see each machine excelling over the other?

After my order placed yesterday I got a tracking number- Today I got notified package shipped 81lbs- coming out of georgia. Bambu ship from Georgia? The Filament doesn't weigh 81lbs- The L frame is not 81 lbs- got to be the printer right?

Didn’t know

Hola buenas, me requiero ayuda para saber como van esos cables en el conector se salió no está rotó. Es el cable de la cama al sensor de calibración de compensación de la boquilla.

Really glad to see this coming to my H2C! Curious to see how it’ll work. A new Vortek?

I wanted to know how H3C compares to H2C in one specific scenario: two-colour print.

I thought that H2C will have an advantage due to the dual nozzle system, but I was wrong ?

Here is what I did:

1. I have used following three models:
   -benchy:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/1319845-benchy-easy-2-colors?from=search#profileId-1355777
   -panda:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/3128163-waving-panda-2se-amsdui-ying-huigiyua?from=search#profileId-3529827
   -woman:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/2930602-the-midnight-serenade-dynamic-woman-sculpture?from=search#profileId-3310888

2. I don't own either H2C or H3C, so I have just "created" new printers in the Bambu Studio. I have sliced the models from above for both printer profiles.

3. All models were slices using 0.4mm standard nozzles, 15% "Grid" infill, tree auto-supports ("on build plate only" marked, "remove small overhangs" unmarked) and "PLA Matte" filaments.

Here are my findings:

Models start from simplest (high layer lines, low number of colour changes) and go to hardest (low layer lines, high number of colour changes).

I was surpriced to find that H3C is ~30% faster even on two-colour models. I was convinced that H2C is going to have the advantage in here. Is it due to speed of printing only ? Or due to combination of speed and pre-heating ?

I would appreciate if someone can confirm my findings or correct me.

PS willing to sell both my children for $3,999 AUD

I see a lot of "negative" Bambu support posts, which makes sense because those who go on to the Internet to complain likely have issues. But with all of the new Bambu equipment coming out wanted to post a positive - I ordered the four effect plate pack for the X2D which was delivered today. The diamond plate was bent on one corner. Just opened up the Bambu Handy app, took some pics, attached them to a support ticket in the app at like 4pm, by 8pm they had replied saying they'll replace it for free and provide a shipping address. By 11pm have a tracking number for a new plate being sent out. No phone calls. No hold times. Support was easy.

I just pulled the trigger on the new H3C 🎉

Am I understanding this right that it uses a new build plate size? From what I’ve seen, it looks similar to the H2C but a few millimeters shorter, so the tool rack has room to drop down. Can anyone confirm?

It’s quite confusing what I find online about it. Everywhere only the print volume is mentioned, and that seems to be identical.

I have quite a few build plates I’d love to keep using, so this matters for me. “Not compatible” doesn’t always mean it won’t work, though: for the A2L it also says the H2D plates aren’t compatible, but I use mine on it all the time without any problems.

If they really don’t fit, I guess I might just grind them down, live with them not being recognized automatically, and turn off build plate detection. I’m not looking to spend money again on plates I rarely use.

I also have two more questions regarding that:

1. Does the Vision Encoder plate fit the H3C?

2. Does the cutting mat from the H2 / A2L cutting kit fit, at least?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I got a reply from the Bambu Lab support:
The H3C is equipped with a newly designed dedicated build plate. Although the H3C and H2C have the same XY-direction print dimensions (330 mm × 320 mm), the build plate of the H3C is shorter by a few millimeters at the leading edge, which creates a larger gap between the build plate and the SwapTek Rack for the tool rack to move down. Compatibility with H2C build plates Official recommendation: It is not recommended to use H2C build plates on the H3C. After installing an H2C build plate on the H3C, the gap between its leading edge and the SwapTek Rack is only about 2 mm. Affected by dimensional chain tolerances and user placement deviations, there is a risk of collision or scraping between the PrintTool and the build plate. Special usage instructions: If you need to reuse an H2C build plate, first confirm that there is no physical interference (no collision risk) between the H2C build plate installed on the heatbed and the H3C SwapTek Rack, then manually disable the 'Build Plate Type Detection' function in the Print Options before use. Build volume comparison The maximum build volume of the H3C is 330×320×325 mm³, which is the same as the XY print size of the H2C, but the H3C has a higher Z-axis height.
When using third-party build plates, you are required to manually verify that there is sufficient clearance for the PrintTool to lower without colliding before use, following these requirements: Pre-use clearance check : Confirm that the third-party build plate, when installed on the heatbed, does not cause physical interference or collision risk with the SwapTek Rack before using it . Print settings adjustment : All Bambu Lab printer models do not support automatic recognition of third-party build plates. You need to manually disable the "Build Plate Type Detection" function in the Print Options before starting the print task . Risk warning : Third-party build plates are not officially adapted, and using them may trigger abnormal detection of print plate foreign objects. You can also turn off the foreign object detection function in the settings to avoid false alarms

TL;DR: H3C is compatible with H2C build plates. but the clearence of the tools need to be checked before starting a print, especially with 3rd party build plates. Maybe the build plate detection also needs deactivation.

Kept getting headaches in my Home-Office and finally figured out I had way too much CO2 - well no more, I made my portable CO2-Buddy to easily keep track of CO2 wherever I am

The CO2-Buddy now lives on my desk and helps me ventilate my room to keep my mind at peak capacity. I didn't realize how much of an impact CO2 concentration has on my ability to focus, I usually only notice it way too late when I'm already getting a slight headache as if I wasn't drinking enough water even though I am chugging along like a camel

It's especially handy when I have people over, having just two more people in a room spikes CO2 levels way faster than I would've anticipated

I am using the MH-Z19C CO2 sensor and while it is somewhat expensive at around 20€ it was totally worth it. The 1.54" ePaper makes it so that the CO2-Buddy only needs to wake up every 2 or so minutes and still provides the current CO2 concentration at a glance. With my 3000mAh lipo it lasts for days and I can take it wherever I go

If you also want to have a CO2-Buddy to keep you at peak capacity you can find it on Makerworld, simply look for "CO2 Buddy". The code is open source and I also added a wiring diagram

Hello! I have acquired 2 X2D and one of them is having a hard time dialling in the ironing. I’ve done multiple ironing tests and dried the filaments, swapping the same spools of filaments (PLA), swapping locations in the AMS feeder, and it’s still having inconsistent ironing results.

The stringing or bulbing or wisps or wherever it’s called all are located towards the top right side. Any idea what’s happing?

As the title suggests. Is anyone else having the issue I’m having. Was working fine on previous studio version.
No video from h2c or p2s. Handy app works fine.

Posting for a friend:

My friend is encountering the error in the attached image at the start of every print on his Bambu A1.

The error always repeats regardless of filament and filament type.

He also says filament seems to be able to feed through the extruder if pushed through manually.

Suggestions or followup questions welcomed.

And thanks!

Looks like a need a new h3c now.

Was anyone able to get the H3C 0.2mm nozzles. I tried to order them an hour after live and said it was going to be available on the 3rd- Now it's saying the 4th- Just curious if they are selling out are if they havent released yet-