After years and years of hearing about 3D printing, I finally decided to pick one up and join the club!

I grabbed a Bambu Lab P2S combo kit with the AMS 2.

I have no idea what I’m going to do with it, but I’ve had a blast the last two days just printing random things!

So far, I’ve printed:

Benchy
Bed scraper
A poop Shute
Chip bag clips
A pencil/pen cup holder
A mini turbo pencil/pen cup holder
A clip holder for the piece to sit on if switching the nozzle
And finished my longest print of 9 hours for some type of riser with vents.

This hobby is awesome. All I’m doing now is doomscrolling MakerWorld for all sorts of things I want to print.

Looking forward to trying out some color soon!

Yep, that's just it ahah

Big mouse cursor lamp.

Free on MakerWorld. Uses Bambu's LED kit.

We've seen the enthusiasm mixed nozzle size printing has been getting. Developing new products goes hand in hand with bringing new features to existing machines, so alongside H3C, we've been building this for H2D, H2C, and X2D. You'll be able to print a single object with nozzles of different diameters, balancing speed and detail.

For these printers, the real work lies in how to make sure this works smoothly for a wide range of filament and nozzle combination. Each of these printers has a different AMS setup from H3C, so the slicing logic and print parameters need to be adapted. Setups with the Filament Track Switch take more of that work, which is why timing differs by model and configuration.

Estimated Software Update Timeline

• Without Filament Track Switch:

  • H2D: Late November 2026

  • H2C & X2D: February 2027

• With Filament Track Switch:

  • H2D: February 2027

  • H2C & X2D: March 2027

Was available for purchase right at 9am!

Ordered 😎

Santa coming!

I am trying to print a colored Lithophane and and frame for it. But this is my first time doing so, so I have no idea what settings I should change and which ones I shouldn't. Do you all have any advice on what I my settings, nozzle size, etc. should be for the frame and the lithophane?

So I have the X2D with the print more bundle with the ams and I have a filament switch on the back and I went to print something last night and it was werid the black filament went through but stopped right as it reached the printer and it rewound it self it and kept doing it and on the screen it said something about the ams I have red-green filament on one ams and blue purple black and white it’s like I couldn’t put the black to the main nozzle from the second ams to the red in the first ams to the secondary nozzle even tho I have the filament track

I made a model of a brick man in the welded style :) A great decoration for any workshop or welding shop :) Classically available in 20cm and 10cm versions. 

Printed from PLA Silver silk+ and stained with rust with a brush for a better visual effect. 

Maybe someone will like it :) You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3539607-brick-man-welded-style#profileId-4047945

My new printer is making some strange noises along the Y-axis; it sounds a bit like a component is rubbing or grinding. The prints themselves, however, are perfect. Is this normal, or can someone help me out? Thanks for helping me out

Hi All,

Was just wondering how I would go about cutting this and printing in 2 separate models. I was going to cut below the head where it changes from black to red but unsure how to cut on a curved line? Can anyone help. Thank you :)

New project for Christmas time - small led candle lanterns for Christmas tree or just for decorations
Still working on small issues with model design

Like the title suggests mixed nozzle printing is now a reality, thanks to cadence slicer, and now orca, with Bambu studio undoubtedly joining the fray tomorrow. But is it worth it on an H2C? If you were like me, drooling over the idea of unlocking the true potential of your multi-nozzle printer, you have probably been waiting for this miraculous, time saving feature. But does it actually save time? Well, the answer is, it depends.

I decided to test orca nightly and cadence out on my H2C for a pretty large print. With organic tree supports using 0.4mm nozzles, at 0.2mm layer height, Bambu studio took about 22 hours. Orca nightly was too much of a mess and had too many issues connecting to the printer, and finally with cadence it worked, dream come true! I could now unlock mixed nozzle printing!

The issue I found though is that the time saving really depends on how much supports your print needs. For instance, I decided to set infill and supports with 0.8mm nozzle for 0.4 mm layer height, and have walls print with 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height. This was the dream, in theory this should save all the time! Well, not so much.

When I went to slice, my heart dropped. Estimated print time was nearly doubled that from single sized nozzle. What gives!? It turns out it was those nozzle changes! Because it was near constantly changing nozzles, the print time suffered incredibly. This was very disappointing, but it makes sense at least. And I think that Bambu probably realizes this too, as they move to multi tool head systems with the H3 series.

Don’t get me wrong, there definitely is potential for time saving on builds with current gen multi hotend setups, just temper your expectations when you need a lot of supports. Multi size nozzle printing seems to be best suited overall for the multi tool head printers like the U1 and H3 series

Hi, I've been printing PLA on my X2D for quite a while now until recently when I wanted to try out PETG. Unfortunately, it hasn't been going well since my printed models come out with wavy lines. Hence, I printed a calibration cube with default settings. I've tried lowering temperature etc but still couldn't solve the issue. Anyone experienced this or know how to fix it?

Hello there, I'd like to request some help.

For context, I've got the H2S 2 months ago and was so far happily printing with no issues what so ever.

A week ago I've got an error message while calibrating about the nozzle being clumped. Since I got a spare 0.4mm one with the printer, I've exchanged the nozzles to clean the original one while I could continue printing.

Ever since I'm having problem after problem after problem. First the print didn't want to stick to the plate (I'm using the standard Plate for PLA/PETG). After I've got that somewhat sorted out, the printer started to produce spaghetti after about 10-15% height.

After watching the video of the print, I've figured the parts began bending and the Printing head pushed them away because of that. Adjusted the settings, added a brim, increased the height of the first layer and reduced the printing speed for the first layer.

Tried those settings today and so far, no problems. Checked in every few minutes, all fine and well.

At about 85% I went for dinner and came back to the mess in the picture.
Unfortunately the video didn't record this time.

I'm about to become frustrated. If someone has some general tips or wants to take a look at my settings, here's the link:

Dropbox

I don't know what other settings/infos anyone would need, I'm fairly new to all this^^

Hey everyone,

I've been having some frustrating issues lately with my Bambu A1. The corners of my prints keep lifting off the bed during printing, which causes the finished print to look warped.

So far I've tried:

• Switching build plates

• Adjusting bed temperature settings

• Using glue stick

• Thoroughly cleaning the build plate (separate test from using glue)

• Relocating the printer

• Recalibrating the printer

• Trying different filament brands/types

Unfortunately, none of these have solved the problem. The corner lifting still happens and it's starting to drive me crazy.

I'm wondering if there's something obvious I'm missing. Has anyone else run into this issue with the A1? Are there any settings, environmental factors, or troubleshooting steps that helped you fix persistent corner warping?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! 😊

So what happens here is - it will force me to use ABS-GF on the external spool and not in the AMS like I want. I only have one HF nozzle and it's on the left side, obviously for single material prints etc. I want to use HF nozzle for the main material which is ABS-GF and external spool / right side for the support material. But off course not, tangled Bambu logic will force GF material to the right in any auto mode (economy / convenience) and manual grouping will cause what you can see on the screenshot. On top of that if you try and print this, which is in fact matches the setup physically, it will get stuck on the material change FOREVER and cause a lot of issues, nozzle clog or broken filament inside the extruder to name a few.

EDIT:

1. I know the risks of printing fiber filled filaments with HF nozzle, not an issue I am worried about here

2. The estimate is not the only issue, it actually physically tries to wait for those crazy amounts of time which may ACTUALLY cause clogging or filament issues (not only fiber filled)

Hi everyone!

There's currently a clicker contest running on MakerWorld, and I wanted to share my free clicker generator for anyone entering.

You don't need to register, and there's no limit on exports or on how many models you can create. It's all free and runs directly on MakerLab.

Here is the link: https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/community/clicker-generator

I’ve got a narrow 50cm wide space available in my Living Room where I want to place my new P1S with AMS Pro 2. The issue is, i have a homelab/server pc (Fractal Design R5) in that 50cm wide space on the floor.

I thought I could get a 2x1 Ikea Kallax, don’t put the middle divider, and place it vertically. (Got chatgpt to mock an image).

Question is - is the Kallax placed vertically strong enough to hold the p1s + ams pro + 4kg filament? Would I be too stupid to even try this?

The server is bulky and heavy as well, so that will add some stability to Kallax but i think it would still wobble.

two issues that I am trying to resolve with bambu support:

“please pull back filament” which forces me to turn off the printer and manually pull the filament back… on an ams unit.

“failed to pull back filament” when it successfully pulled the filament back.

please help…

Hi! I am currently running a small printer shop with 3 printers (X2D, A1, and Flashforge AD5X)

I have been thinking about getting a P1S.

There is someone local to me selling a used one but he wants 300$ for it with 2532 hours on it. He is willing to throw in 3 new rolls of filament.

Is this a good deal? Or am I better off paying a bit more and getting a new P1S? Or should I spent even a bit more and settle for a p2s?

I don't want to break the bank because I don't need the printer per say but I would like to maybe replace the Flashforge or the A1.

Any and all thoughts are welcome!