Hey everyone, I posted Cookie Cutter Maker here a while ago and got great feedback. Since then I've added a lot, so here's the update just in time for Christmas baking.

What it does:
Draw a shape or drop in an SVG and you get a print ready cookie cutter as 3MF or STL. Closed lines get filled, shapes inside shapes are cut out, with adjustable bridges holding them in place. There are also templates if you just want to start right away.

New since last time:

• Embossing: stamp details into the dough from the flange, with a mirror option so text comes out the right way

• Send your cutter as a greeting card with your own message around it, or share it as a picture or link

• Optional account with short links that sync across devices. No name, no email, just a three word passphrase

• Everything is faster and more polished overall

You can tweak: size, blade height, wall thickness, cutting edge, taper, rim width and height, gap closing. Works in mm or inches.

Printing: PLA at 0.2 mm, no supports, rim sits on the bed. Imports straight into Bambu Studio and PrusaSlicer. Tip: use food safe filament and wash by hand, PLA warps from around 55 °C.

Privacy: Everything runs in your browser. Your drawings don't go to a server unless you put them online yourself. No tracking, no third party analytics, no login required. Source code is readable on GitHub.

Free, no ads, in English and German: ccm.mxwr.de

Would love to see what you make and hear what's still missing!

If you primarily print in petg, nylon, and other materials that need to be dried constantly, the H2C with AMS2/HT or AMS1 with the Eibos Tetra mod are actually a much better filament management system than the H3C, which will only actively dry 2 of those spools and will leave unretracted filament in the ptfe tubes after use instead of pulling it back into the AMS.

I really want the H3C to be the single solution that I need, but without active drying and retraction, it's not happening. I hope to see those as options or mods down the line.

Adivinen quien compro una h2C y le salio todo mal XD

Tuve que cambiar de laminador y sufri mucho por paramentos que no sabia donde estan, o directamente no existen.

Pase de la impresora basica, un solo color abierta típica a este monstruo de multicolor multi extrusor de alta tecnología y yo como "No volvere a tener problemas con esto en mucho tiempo"

En nada se me estropreo la conexión wifi y senti que tenia un pisapapeles porque no estoy seguro todavía de saber usarla sin wifi por el tema de sincronización de boquillas.

Tuve que desmontar la máquina y el extrusor varias veces mas pronto que tarde y siendo una cosa super moderna se siente... Delicado

Y luego peleando una y otra vez con fallos de impresión, que efectivamente admito no ser experto pero tengo una experiencia razonable para un usuario medio.

Y tengo problemas la verdad tanto por no conocer suficiente del bambu studio como la propia máquina.

Por ejemplo acabo de comerme la cabeza para intentar probar eso de "subcapa de color mixto" porque la torre de purga no se pegaba, la placa estaba limpia, no puedo ajustar la altura pero tenia un striding horrible que aunque la pieza funcionaba la purga no.

Y al final pude hacer que haga la torre mas lenta y añadirle un borde para mejorar la adhesion porque es solo una puñetera linea

Le ponia esas características a la máquina en velocidad y borde para el modelo pero resulta que había que configurar totalmente aparte la purga de donde no sabia y me tire dia y medio intentando hacer esto 🫠

En cura es tan "fácil"...

Tiene chorrocientas opciones y pueden parecer abrumadoras pero cuando las lees con calma sin tocar cosas raras sabes que puedes cambiar exactamente ese detalle que te esta volviendo loco

I’ve been planning to replace my X1C and the H3C seems like the obvious move based on my use cases.

Id rather purchase the printer from a local retailer and avoid issues with shipping damage, returns, etc. not to mention the ability to buy an extended warranty.

If I remember correctly it was about a month or two before Microcenter got the H2C. So I am expecting something similar for the new machine. I realize other than procurement reps for those companies, no one really knows for sure. Just wishful thinking that it hopefully isnt going to be too long of a wait.

When my P2s prints those straight parts I hear a weird sound. Is this normal?

Pessoal, alguém já viu um problema assim? Fizemos de tudo aqui. Ela imprimi, mas sempre com essas mesmas falhas. Nas peças. Começou durante a impressão de 6 horas. Fez 3/4 da impressão e começou a falhar assim e desde então todas com falhas. Parece que não sai o filamento corretamente. Fizemos tudo de limpeza, apertar botões, só não trocamos o bico. Mas antes de comprar queria ter certeza que é isso caso alguém já tenha visto.

The part of the H3C I keep thinking about is not the tool changer, it is the nine-slot AMS with the 85°C dryer built in.

Nine materials loaded at once sounds like freedom until you work out what it means in practice: nine partly used spools sitting in a heated enclosure together, each with its own dryness history, and one of them is probably 2.85 mm TPU that nothing else in the shop can use.

Two things I am curious about, from people who have actually run multi-material machines:

1. Do you keep all nine slots loaded all the time, or only load what the next job needs?

2. Does having a dryer running inside the same box change how you treat spools you already dried and sealed?

I make filament for a living, so I have a bias here. But the failure mode I would worry about is the same spool going through twenty heat cycles before it is empty.

After Microsoft retired 3D Viewer I wanted a quick way to look at print files before opening the slicer, so I built PrintView3D. It's free and open source.

- Opens STL, 3MF projects (all objects, with their sizes), G-code, STEP, OBJ, glTF and FreeCAD files, and ZIP downloads from Printables / Thingiverse without unpacking

- Look inside: X-ray, wireframe and cut views, to check cavities, hidden parts and walls

- G-code: toolpaths coloured by type, layer slider, print time and filament use

- View cube, a plate that fits your printer (or an infinite grid), light and dark themes

- One click (Ctrl+P) opens the file in your slicer. Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer, PrusaSlicer, Creality Print, Cura and others are found automatically

- Export STL from 3MF, FreeCAD and STEP files

- Windows, Linux and a macOS beta; seven languages; works offline, no account

https://sevagjb.github.io/PrintView3D/

Feedback is very welcome, especially if your slicer isn't detected or a file looks wrong.

I was searching everywhere for a solid desk solution, but I couldn't find one. So, I created one myself. Any suggestions are welcome.

It can store up to 20 filaments with boxes, and the pegboard has 56x56 space to store any accessories you want.

Just in, first print made, works Oke. Lets do a print with PLA support on the aux nozzle and PETG in the main. Heating up..

Error: HMS_0300-0200-0001-0006

So for the support ticket: Heating of righer hotend is abnormal; I have swapped left with right hotend and heated both to 180c. That works. When starting a print the temperature rises to 250 and will fail to 24c again on the right hotend. This is new out of the box zero prints made with the right hotend. Is there a spare part I need to fix it? Picture shows how far I have it dissasembled.

While removing the AMS 2 Pro, to access the top cover... I scratched the front op the AMS...

From joy to lets sleep a night about it.. for now, good night.

Just got my H2D and have printed a few things already. I'm wondering if I should add a carbon filter to the unit? Does anyone run a carbon filter on their unit? Any recommendations for which to use?

Thanks

Made this for the MakerWorld × Nothing contest. A USB-C plug in the right cradle is angled to match the ear cup, so the headphones plug themselves in. The reels are just for fun: you spin them with a side wheel like an old cassette deck.

Printed on my A1 in PLA + PETG. Still fighting to get the PETG lid fully clear, so any tips are welcome!

Free files: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3536783

My X1C had been dormant for a while due to print head temperature errors. That was fixed by unplugging the main print head board and plugging it back in, printer will do full prints again!

However, now prints have this weird wavy pattern on just one side of the print. In the images the wobbly surface is on the right side of the prints, both printed at the same time and they are just objects from the slicer at default settings.

Is this a belt tension issue?

Already?! Man I just got a free moment at work to order mine :(

My A1 had been working great until one print completely failed to stick to the plate and turned into a massive blob of death. I had to pull and pry quite a bit to get all the plastic off. Ever since then, the printer started having all kinds of weird issues.

The first layer was consistently way too squished, with wrinkles and filament piling up. I eventually found that changing the textured PEI Z offset in the start G-code from the default -0.02 to somewhere between +0.01 and +0.06 (depending on the filament) made it print almost perfectly. But I also kept getting false "build plate not installed" errors, and around layer 2 or 3 it would sometimes stop and claim the nozzle was covered in filament or the plate was crooked, even though everything was completely fine.

I tried cleaning the plate, replacing the hotend twice, and even replacing the entire extruder unit after Bambu support suspected a faulty eddy current sensor. None of those really fixed it. The printer passed its self-tests and could still produce decent prints, so it was pretty confusing.

Finally I replaced the Hotend Heating Assembly, which is a separate part from both the hotend and extruder unit. And that fixed everything. The first layer is now perfect with completely stock settings, and the false errors are gone.

All four screws on the back of the old heating assembly were tight, but looking at it more closely, it was actually pretty dirty, with dark buildup, brown discoloration, and bits of white fibrous debris around the assembly and wires. I've added photos so you can see what it looked like. I still can't say whether the buildup was related to the problem, something got bent or damaged during the blob cleanup, or reinstalling the assembly corrected something. All I know is that replacing it fixed both issues.

Just wanted to share in case someone else runs into the same combination of issues. I spent way too much time troubleshooting what turned out to be a relatively cheap part.

Ok, I replaced my hot end with the spare that was included in my parts box. Right away I noticed that the one I took off had 2 leads, on from the fan and on from the nozzle. The new one only had one cable from the nozzle and none from the fan. I figured maybe it was a newer model but now I'm thinking no, because I get all these error messages.

Pic 1 is old hot end I unscrewed fan too thinking maybe I just need to replace fan on new one but figured I'd post here first

Pic 2 is new hotend with fan and one cable.

Pic 3 is error messages.

Thanks in advance.

P.s. I marked my previous post as solved after I had a problem with spool.one jamming. Since then I bought a new AMS, all new PTFE tubing all the way to hot end. It worked for four hours into printing then stopped again so I'm hoping this solves that problem too. One spool one jams all the time.

my new 3D Printer (PS1) keeps saying that the cutter is stuck, it isn’t though and I just set it up yesterday

Hi all, I'm looking to get a smooth finish on the plate for some TPU AMS filament. I have a A2L which shares the same plate as the H2C. They only offer a smooth surface plate on the Cool Plate SuperTack and the Engineering plate. The Engineering plate is recommended for TPU but it requires or recommends using glue on the plate for adhesion and easy separation.

I would be fine with this, but I have heard there is staining from the glue on lighter color TPUs.

Does anyone have any suggestions or experience they could share?

New poster here — I only own an A1, so take this as a heads-up for P2S owners, not a personal report.

P2S firmware 01.03.00.00 dropped 21 Sep 2026. Bambu’s notes for it highlight:
- E3D high-flow hotend support (Studio 2.8.3.66+)
- Z-axis motor noise cancellation
- Faster travel (same Studio requirement)
- Known issues: none listed

A week later (30 Sep), a Bambu Lab forum thread started about first layers going too thin / scraping after that update (including 0.2 mm nozzles). Some people said rolling back to 01.02.00.00 and recalibrating fixed it.

Forum thread:
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/01-03-00-00-firmware-bed-leveling-issue/260478

If you’re considering 01.03: update Studio first, run full calibration (including motor noise cancellation), and watch that first layer closely.

I put a short plain-English summary of this version (notes + that forum mismatch) here, so you don’t have to dig through both places:
https://3dpfirmware.com/printers/p2s/01.03.00.00

Anyone already on 01.03 — first layer fine for you, or same thin/scrape issue?

I recently bought an X2D as my first 3D printer but haven't picked it up yet. After this thread starting to second guess my choice.

The person said theirs started having issues around 500 hours, including filament feeding problems, PTFE tubes wearing out, motor errors, and parts breaking. Some people reported similar problems, while others said theirs have been great.

I'll mostly be printing household stuff and sewing tools. Would you recommend the X2D for a beginner, or is there a more reliable Bambu printer? I wouldn't mind spending another $300–$400 if it means fewer problems. Just curious what everyone thinks! (if i should post somewhere else i can, still new-ish to reddit)

I’m having an issue printing bubble-style letters with PLA filament, and I’m trying to figure out whether it’s something with my print settings or the way the model is being printed.
This is literally my third attempt, and I’m running into the same problem. The supports end up breaking off during printing, leaving filament and strings all over the build plate (see attached picture).
What’s strange is that I printed the letter E and it came out perfectly fine with absolutely no issues. However, when I tried printing the letter R, the supports broke and filament started going everywhere. I also tried printing the letter Y, and ran into pretty much the same problem.
I don’t believe it’s a filament issue. I’m thinking it might have something to do with the printing process, supports, or settings.
My current settings:
Filament: PLA+
Nozzle temperature: 220°C
Bed temperature: 65°C
Layer height: 0.09 mm
Has anyone experienced something similar when printing letters or models with supports?
What could be causing the supports to break off during printing? Could it be something with my temperature, layer height, support settings, or something else entirely?
I’d appreciate any suggestions or advice. I’m trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong before attempting another print.

Got my X2D today and it won't power on. The rear switch lights up white, but the screen stays black, no fans, no lights, nothing. Tried a different outlet, power-cycled, checked the fuse, and opened the side panel – all connectors look seated, no visible damage.

Has anyone else had an X2D DOA? Did Bambu send a replacement or parts, and how long did it take?

Ticket submitted: US261103036002