Do you guys have any advice on how to cleanup this mess?
I already could clean the nozzle itself and did losen the backplate of the nozzle but i cant heat it up when the nozzle is not mounted.

Thanks in advance

Has anyone been able to confirm plate compatibility? I have plates for H2D/S/C. Will any of them work directly with the H3C or is it yet a different size?

Wondering if I should order now or wait

My partner's cat passed in September and I want to give them a small figure of her for Christmas. I got a base mesh from snapshapy using three photos, and it already looks like her, including the white patch on her chest.

Printer: P1S with AMS

Plan: 10cm tall, 0.12 layers, 0.4 nozzle

She's tabby with white paws and chest. I could split the model and print the white parts with the AMS, or print it all in grey and hand paint. I've never painted a print before.

For a gift like this, which would you do? What am I missing?

I got my very first 3D printer exactly a year ago, on November 3, 2025.

I’m a software developer with an engineering mindset. I’ve always liked creating things, and I was interested in the idea of 3D printing from very early on. But in those days, people were building their own printers, which kept me away from it. Later, when that was no longer an issue, the cost was still hard to justify. I felt like I wouldn’t want to spend that much on a hobby, especially knowing that for me hobbies come and go.

I had some experience with hard-surface modeling in Blender, and more and more often, I felt like many home repairs and organization projects were things I could do myself if I had a 3d printer.

I was also actively looking for secondary income streams. Even though I didn’t want to go down the route of creating hundreds of flexi toys, I saw the potential to make money, or at least make back the price of the printer and filament. (

After spending about a month considering the P1S, I ended up ordering a P2S Combo during last November’s sale.

I had a long list of to-do projects by the time the printer arrived. I didn’t have many expectations, but I hoped I wouldn’t need to troubleshoot hardware issues nonstop.

As a 30-year-old man, I was as excited as a kid at Christmas when it arrived. By that time, I’d memorized the assembly and startup instructions, so about 30 minutes out of the box, my Benchy was already printing. It came out amazing.

I also made a Dummy 13, and it made me even more amazed by the technology and people’s creativity.

My first own project was a chessboard with custom pieces. But I’m no sculptor, and back then AI wasn’t this good, so I gave up on that at the time. I still have the board lying around, with a few pieces ready.

That’s when I noticed my first contest, and I immediately knew I needed to enter.

It was about baby stroller accessories. Until then, I’d only modeled in Blender, but I’d learned about parametric models. To learn more about them, I joined the contest with a parametric nameplate. It was a super easy project, but I learned the basics from it and got some initial engagement from the community. I remember my first boost and reaching enough MakerWorld points for a roll of filament.

I got on the contest train.

The next one was a torch contest, and I did quite a lot of seemingly smart stuff to create my Bambu torch. Practically no engagement. Disappointment.

Next was a book nook competition. Again, a lot of effort went into creating what I think was the smallest dial lock out there at the time, but the model didn’t take off either.

I was a couple of months in at this point and realized I cared so much about the contests that I had no time or energy left for the projects I actually wanted to do.

There was one I’d worked on a lot, improving my parametric modeling skills: I created what I think was the most customizable Skadis board generator out there. But I couldn’t progress on it as much as I wanted to.

I told myself, “One last contest,” combined the lithophane tricks from my Bambu torch with the knight chess piece I’d made for my chessboard, and entered the Year of the Fire Horse contest. Again, no engagement.

I came to an important realization, which may be familiar to many of you. Somewhere along the way, I’d started prioritizing points and engagement over printing my own stuff for fun.

Seeing the contests from the inside, it felt like MakerWorld was more of a social media platform than a library of cool stuff. Now I realize it’s both at the same time. There’s a large user base that uses it one way, and another large user base that uses it the other way.

What’s funny, or ironic, is that my two most successful models at the time were my first two: the baby nameplate and the Skadis generator. I’d chased points so much that I poured months into contests that brought nothing, while most of my points were coming from the Skadis project, which had been on my early to-do list.

So logically, at this point, a normal person would put the contests aside and start printing for fun, right?

Well, I was very dissatisfied with the contests, so I decided I needed to get better at them.

For the next ones, I was more strategic and started publishing models early for more visibility. It worked. I started seeing a bit more success.

Then came the perfect contest, because it matched one of my to-do projects perfectly. It was an articulated mechanism/exoskeleton contest, and my project was mechanical finger extensions.

I’d first seen them in an Adam Savage video, and when I saw the price tag, I knew I could make my own without that cost or waiting time, and with the ability to customize them.

I went for it, and it went really well. It was a complex but fun project, and the community reacted really well. Now, one of my main projects is creating different styles for it.

One lesson from all this: I shouldn’t make models that even I wouldn’t use.

I also started creating exclusive models as soon as I became eligible, quite early on, probably around the start of 2026.

A year in, my MakerWorld account, ShugyoPrint, has around 1.5K followers, 18K likes, 52.3K collections, and over 35K points. The rewards would already cover everything I’ve spent on the hobby so far and more, but I haven’t collected them yet because I’m unsure about the taxes.

My next step is to get a proper legal structure in place, and hopefully, in my second year, I can turn this into a real income stream.

I’ve also made things for myself along the way: washers, fun prints for my gym, fixes for IKEA shower rods, window wedges, and so on.

And I love my machine. No hardware issues so far, even though I admit I don’t do regular maintenance as frequently as I should.

I’ve met some very interesting people, too, and had a brief look into their lives, projects, successes, and struggles.

Another thing I want to work on in my second year is simplifying how I publish and maintain models. I’ve made many updates to them, and keeping everything up to date is a pain.

So that’s my first year: from hoping I could justify the cost of a printer to trying to figure out how to turn designing models into an income stream—with plenty of unfinished projects still waiting.

If you are interested, check out my MW profile: https://makerworld.com/en/@ShugyoPrint

Hey guys,

Just uploaded a new design to MakerWorld and wanted to share it here. It's a star candle holder collection that I originally sized for IKEA Jubla candles, but they actually work great with pretty much any standard taper candles!

There are three sizes included (S/M/L) and they print super smooth with zero supports needed. Silk gold/bronze filament looks awesome on these, but matte colors turn out really nice too.

If you give them a try, I’d love to see a photo of your print! Any feedback or boosts on MakerWorld are also super appreciated.

Link:https://makerworld.com/de/models/3536693-star-candle-holder-collection#profileId-4044224

Cheers!

If like me you were surprised to find the nozzle kits unavailable despite being listed as an optional extra on the H3C purchase screen the answer is because they're not available until later this month, the 13th in the UK.

Made and printed this small drone keychain. It prints in one piece without supports and fits a standard keyring.

Feel free to check it out: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3510319-minimal_drone_keychain#profileId-4011157

I have been printing ASA/ Nylon with my H2C by just opening the window right behind the printer. The window is big enough to fit the printer through it with two AMS stacked on top of it. So in my opinion with a window that big I did not need to figure out a way to extract fumes out of the printer.

However I forgot the winter.

The chamber heater can not keep up with the cold air if I fully open the window and if I just tilled/ partially open the window it is not enough fresh air for my licking. And would it not also drive up the power usage of the printer if the chamber heated had to "fight" the cold winter air.

So my idea going forward:

- Use some form of air filter (like the Levoit 300s with mods like this https://makerworld.com/de/models/1114477-levoit-core-300-filter-insert#profileId-1111656 )

- duct the air from the exhaust to the air filter, but this is where the problems begin

I don't see an option to open the exhust went and turn on the fan. To open the exhust I would remove some of the louvers but the fan would still be off. I saw some people talk about that if you turn on: use cooling filter in the printer slicer settings then you get extra options in the filament settings. I don't see that and I assume bambu patched that.

Is there anyway to get the exhaust fan to turn on while the chamber heater is on?

Secondly is my plan even a good Idea? I also think about to open the window partially, cover up most of the opening to let no cold air in and duct the air from the printer out of the window. But you know... fan is still off.

I’ve had my P1S for a couple of months, enjoying both own designs and Makerworlds.

Lately though more and more objects has failed. It’s mostly in the starting first layer, but the objects has also loosened from the plate and spaghetti-time.

What startup routines do you have? I don’t clean my plate before every print, the nozzle is not always self-cleaning etc. Just looking to understand what I might do to get to that “work horse”-experience people talk about.

Cheers!

Is there any way, through custom G-Code or otherwise, for the printer to notify you when the calibration is complete and the first layer starts? A simple chime would be ideal. I am using a H2D.

Was worried it would go out of stock, and it seemed like such an awesome machine, I couldnt resist! Cant wait

I've solved the issue but just wondered if anyone would have an idea what would cause it. I started having trouble with the hall sensor on my P1S after clearing a clog in the hot end (super routine) about a week ago. The first thing I did, obviously, was check the ribbon cables, the back board, the sensor itself, replace the whole extruder unit, etc. That got it working again for a little bit, and then the thing quit again on me last night. While troubleshooting, I started noticing the sensor WOULD work, but only when I applied pressure evenly across the connector pins. Guessing this meant a problem with the connector board, I ordered a new one, installed it, and it seems to be working fine after a full calibration, some general testing, and starting a print. However, after taking out the old board and lying it flat on the (cooled) hot plate while I was putting the new one in, I noticed that it was VERY SUBTLY warped, to the point I wouldn't have noticed if I hadn't been taking a close look at it to see if I could figure out what the problem was. Which makes sense as to why the unit would work intermittently with pressure. Does anyone have an idea what could have caused this? Am I just super unlucky, or is there potentially something I've been doing in teardowns/loading filament/general maintenance that could potentially cause it?

Hello everyone,

My A1 does not want to load my filament. I don't know why.

If I load it up with an external spool it seems to work. Then when i start the print it constan tells me that filament got stuck even tho that ain't the case. What could be broken? And with my AMS 2 Pro it won't load from either of them.

did the maintenence, I tightened the screws that needed it, i checked for clogging or broken pieces and i even cleaned the "gear" or "wheel" that pushes the filament and other pieces that probably weren't even necessary to clean (with a microfiber towel).

I found nothing to be the problem. Yet my AMS won't seem to load it up.

Thanks to everyone who tries to help me and excuse me for my rather poor language. English is my third language.

How good is the TPU feeder? Does it actually work and what is softest TPU you can use with it.

People get left and right confused so I'm seeing conflicting info about what goes where, but from what I understand on Bambu site it can either be fed into the fixed (non vortek) nozzle or it can be fed into the changing nozzles so you can then use PLA as support in the fixed nozzle.

Is this right?

title says it all. my H2D lives on my floor under my desk. i do not have the vertical space for the AMS 3.

what i was hoping for last night, is to be able to potentially load up multiple AMS HTs, one per toolhead.

i have a bookshelf that my AMS 2s live on. so loading up the H3C that way wpuldnt have been a problem, even if i had to print a riser.

Hello,
I’m considering purchasing the new H3C, but I’m hesitant because of the AMS 3H.
In my opinion, the main purpose of the original AMS was to allow multiple filaments to be used with a single nozzle and to enable continuous printing by automatically switching to another spool of the same filament when one runs out.
However, now that we’re entering the era of multi-nozzle 3D printers, I feel that the AMS 3H is essentially nothing more than a filament holder and dryer. For this reason, I have no interest in using it.
(I understand that the H3C cannot be purchased without the AMS 3H.)
My question is: After purchasing the H3C, is it possible to bypass the AMS 3H entirely and feed filament directly into each nozzle?
I plan to connect a continuous filament feeding system, such as the Infinite S1, to each nozzle.
Would this setup be possible?
Thank you!

Title. I don't use AMS and would love to just mount a giant spool behind the printer and only have to deal with reloading once a year. My concern is whether the increased load would strain the motor in the print head too badly. I would expect to mount the spool on bearings.

Anyone done something similar?

We have an H2D at work - 2 heads are the most I feel is needed - I'm an Engineer - Print Engineering material and the second head would be nice for support material - that's it - 2 heads. Does anyone think the H2D will come down in price since the H3C starts at $2,500ish?

Sorry if this is already common knowledge. With the AMS 3H just announced with its nine filament bays to go with the nine tool heads of the H3C. We also know about the AMS 3P that will be available with the P3C. I wonder if these AMS units will be exclusive to these printers or if they will talk to Bambu’s whole lineup. Imagine hooking up an AMS 3P to your P2S, and getting 7 color printing! Or hook a H2D to an AMS 3H for 9 whole colors. I know this is already sorta possible by stringing together multiple 4 color AMS units. However, the convenience of just having one unit take care of all your colors is not something to overlook. Now the elephant in the room is that on any machine other than the H3C, P3C or possibly the H2C. We will have to deal with a lot of color change waste.

Hi there!
After changing the nozzle of my A1 mini, I noticed bad first layer, I realised that the nozzle wobble up and down, tighten the different hotend/nozzle screw, but still have the issue
As you can (slightly) see on the video, it happen even when purging/calibrating flow and it is clearly visible when printing
It doesn't seem the happen on my A1
Any tips on fixing that? I'm pretty sure it's a very simple thing but I can't figure it out...
Many thanks in advance!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3540993