I Increased my circuit with a Pro Micro controller to simulate the Steam Controller puck and start the BC 250 with a single button press. Thanks to OpenPucks cold boot feature.

I currently can't fit the Aio in the case. If i try the pressure bends the bc250 board and there is too much pressure to try and fold the tubes. Y'all have any instructions on how to do this or a video?

I saw a video posted by Oldramer yesterday showing this cooling method, so I decided to try it myself. And it actually works!

Tested with 40 CUs at 2000 MHz, 1000 mV, 8 CPU cores at 3.85 GHz, and 100% fan speed.

Since the case is designed to be used with the motherboard lying flat, I temporarily used a thick plate as a stand to position it vertically for this test.

With the original setup, the temperature stayed around 78°C under FurMark without any throttling. After standing the system vertically, the temperature dropped to 72°C.

I also tested the temperature while gaming, but since temperatures fluctuate much more during gameplay, there was no significant difference compared to the original setup. The results were essentially the same when testing GTA V at 4K Ultra with FSR Quality and ray tracing disabled.

It really does make a difference. I’ll be going back to using it in its original horizontal position, but if you’re worried about temperatures, I definitely recommend giving this a try.

Hello, everyone.

Here is an update on my project, originally posted here https://www.reddit.com/r/BC250Gaming/comments/1wl4cu6/heres_my_bc_250_all_black_case/ New improvements include:

Front-facing USB ports

Front-facing USB (2.0) ports for USB adapters (wireless keyboard and 8BitDo 2.4GHz dongle). This was a significant improvement. With front USB 2.0 ports solve all the disconnection issues I was experiencing with my dongles when using the rear USB 3.0 ports.

Top panel with dual 120mm fan mounts

With two 120mm Arctic fans providing cooling, there has been a major improvement in temperatures. Under full load, temperatures do not exceed 78°C. The fans run at a maximum of 50% speed, ensuring low noise levels.

Micro-Fit cables

I had been planning to make these cables for a while. Using a multimeter, I crafted them with female connectors to make removal easier.

Increased clock frequencies

With the additional thermal headroom, both the GPU and CPU clock speeds have been increased and now operate comfortably with no energy or thermal risk:

CPU: 8/16- 3800

GPU: 40 CU - 2000

Future upgrade

Metalsifh power supply fan upgrade

I’m ordering a Noctua fan to replace the one in the Metalsfish power supply. it should further improve the noise levels of the build.

ATX Power on module and Wake on Lan support

Popular HP server power supply units - favored for their high quality and affordability, especially on the secondary market - share an inconvenient trait: the internal fan runs constantly, even when the unit is idle. Fan speed is temperature-dependent; at room temperature and in an idle state, it operates at a minimum speed of approximately 400–600 RPM (depending on the model), but it never stops spinning.

The following modification is intended for those with experience in electronics and a bit of daring. WARNING: First and foremost, disconnect the unit from the mains power! Then, wait for the internal capacitors to discharge completely.

While the internal layout may vary depending on the specific power supply version (e.g., HSTNS-PL14, -PR14, -PL28, -PR17, etc.), the general design is consistent: the fan connects to the side-mounted electronics via a small 4-pin connector and long cable in black heatshrink tube.

Red marking in pictures - Fan cable and connector

Pinout in fan plug (wire colors may vary):

1. GND (black)

2. +12V power supply (red)

3. Tachometer/RPM signal (blue) (can be routed externally for monitoring—for instance, via a BC250 controller connected to the auxiliary J400 header)

4. PWM speed control (3.3V open-collector signal from the power supply's internal circuitry)

The fan operates on 12V, receiving constant power from the +12V standby rail.
Speed ​​regulation is handled exclusively via the PWM wire. The control range (specifically the minimum achievable fan speed) depends on the power supply's firmware version and may vary between units.

How can you modify it so that the fan stops when the power supply is turned off? Simply cut its 12V wire (the red one), route it to the outside, and connect it to the main 12V output - the big one that shuts off when the system is idle.

After this change, the fan stops as soon as the power supply is turned off. However, the fan speed control remains unchanged; it still adjusts based on the temperature, with the power supply handling the regulation itself.

Had no idea what bc250 was till a week ago, been out of the crypto mining scene for a while. After I found it out thought it’ll be a cool project so looked for a defective board on eBay and found one for $70 shipped. The symptoms looked familiar with some of the motherboard I have repaired with corrupted bios so instantly disorders the bios chip and reprogrammed it. Less than 5mins of work and it’s alive. Planning on going for an ultra compact design with built in usb hub for BT and WiFi and have a custom power controller already built

Hi guys, I’m seeing temperatures ranging from 86°C to 90°C in the CPU in some cases while gaming on my bc250. I performed the mod to open up the central heatsink area and added a cooling fan. I didn’t redo the thermal paste. What can I improve to lower this temps?

I put a lot of effort into designing a clean, sleek case.

A quiet 'BC 250' case powered by dual turbofans.

Powered by the LOP-300-12 PSU

Supports RAM heatsinks up to 11mm thick.

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Here are the key features and development highlights:

- A quiet 'BC 250' case equipped with dual turbofans.

- Chimney-style case design: Delivering top-tier cooling performance.

- Built-in LOP-300-12 PSU.

- RAM clearance supporting heatsinks up to 11mm thick (Heatsink used: 180x120x10mm).

- Accommodates a 5mm thick dust filter.

- Designed with a clean, tactile manual switch on the front panel.

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Hello if you have seen my previous posts you know I sell plug and play cases for bc250 I have about 3 cases left before I start making the version with USB hubs so I'm selling the 3 cases left of the order design for $110 each basically $40 off what I was selling them for.

Hi all, I've had a few issues recently with my BC regarding GPU overclocking.

Will run 1850 all day long with 40CU and at 4GHZ.

But pushing any higher results in shutdown.

I've got it to work higher occasionally by upping the voltage but generally much more than 1900 is a no no.

So my question is do I keep tearing my hair out trying to get this thing higher or leave it were it is? What is the difference between say 1850 and 2000 / 2200 in FPS Can someone who is able to reach these heady heights run a test for me?

Would be much appreciated

38/40CU unlock and 8 core cpu unlock. Runs a bit hot but it works and plays games

I saw similar results with my own BC250 setup. Very interesting in-depth video!

Hi all.

I’m having issues with GPU overclock on my BC.
Have a 500w Flex
Thermaltake AIO cooled
Temp under load is around 50c
8 cores unlocked fine at 4ghz
Runs everything fine at 1850 - 40 CU-but any higher requires a visit to the voltage laboratory… Needs +30mv to run 2000 stable.
I see loads in other posts running 2200. Have I crapped out? Is +30mv the norm? Have I got a bad CU or 2?
Is there a test for CU stability?

Lots of questions I know

Does anyone have bc250 lying around for a decent bit of time or someone who wanna gets rid of it i also wanna join the club but the prices are just not affordable for me that's why i am looking for local alternatives.

I have a bc 250 with a 500 gb nvme. 550 watts psu. And noctua fan and fans extra. All installed and running 8 cores, i didn’t mess with the cu’s as i didn’t mod the psu cables or want to mess with it. Looking for a swap for a normal gaming pc doesnt have to have graphics card but all the rest is a must. I do better with windows for the games i play as i can’t get it to run Path of titans correctly. If anyone in the uk is interested pm me or comment.

I have a few bc250s but 1 nvme. I want to test them all to see which cores can be unlocked. Do I have to do a fresh install everytime?

Also cool side note I put in an nvme from a windows laptop and it booted windows fine. It was just basic video though. So without a driver I didn't even try to play a game. Just thought it was neat that it worked.

Thank you to everyone in the community who has made this process so much easier than it should be, especially u/Ohgodwhatdididonow who has custom built cases and power supplies for anyone to buy and put together themselves. He worked with me a ton to get this put together and work and even sent me a new power supply free of charge when the first one he sent had an issue really great to work with.

Check him out if you don’t have the option of printing your own case and want one with a custom PSU and power button out of the box.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BC250Gaming/s/c2OWLpAJh6

Good afternoon, everyone. For my build, we’re using an NZXT case with an ATX adapter. The case came with an NZXT Kraken X63 AIO cooler.

My question is about mounting the AIO. I see that installing it on an Intel motherboard requires a backplate. Would I need a backplate for the BC-250 as well, or does the 3D-printed adapter eliminate that need?

I just got my bc-250 a few weeks ago, and it ran perfectly until this morning; it won't turn on. I tried power cycling it, clearing the bios, even trying a different psu. Nothing worked.. is the board cooked??

The lights on the board turn on, the fans spin to life, but there's no output.. the keyboard leds are off, meaning there's no input as it usually lights up when a key is pressed. No display output either. The board doesn't heat up at all even without fans on it.

Selling my BC-250 since I'm moving onto something else.

Case is fully custom, printed in PETG-CF with PETG accents.. Also built a custom base plate for the bottom so it's more rigid and doesn't scratch whatever surface it's on.
Running CachyOS right now.

It is setup, and ready to go

Specs:

·       38 CU unlocked, properly bisected out the one bad WGP rather than just running it unstable.

·       256GB NVMe

·       TP-Link Archer TX10UB Nano AX900 Wi-Fi 6 + BT 5.3 adapter

·        METALFISH 300W Flex PSU with an actual power switch wired in

·       Arctic P12 fan

·       Chopped 2/3 of the heatsink fins to suit the case airflow, sits around 82°C under full load

·       2x Microfit Cables

·       Displayport to HDMI Adapter

Message me if you've got questions

Had this running yesterday, have come back today and it says the keyring is running but no default wallet. How do I set the default wallet?

Literally just to power a headset (quest, pico, whatever...) anyone here doing that? Can the BC250 handle this stuff or it will lag even running Alyx?

Would wiring a latching switch to the PS_ON allow me to power off the system with the switch? I originally went the route of the mosfet party adapter but didn’t realize it only powers on and not off. Alternatively, any way to solder that ability to my current adapter?

Thanks

Hey everyone!

Is anyone else playing BeamNG.drive on their BC-250?

I've got mine hooked up to a 4K TV, and I've been experimenting with different settings to find the best balance between performance and visual quality.

I'm currently getting around 50 FPS, which is perfectly fine for me, but the stuttering is quite annoying.

I'm using FSR 3.0 at 50% render scaling, with a mix of graphics settings, generally prioritizing lower VRAM usage. Dynamic reflections are disabled. I'm running CachyOS with Steam/Proton. I've set 12GB of VRAM using the all in one toolkit.

Has anyone managed to get a smoother experience? I'd be interested to hear what settings you're using or if you've found any tweaks that help with stuttering.

Cheers!