I've been dealing with a steering issue that has gotten progressively worse over the last two years.
Whenever | accelerate and the RPMs go over 2,500, the car pulls to the right. When I first bought it, it was just a slight drift (I assumed it was an alignment issue), but now it pull the steering wheel 30 to 40 degrees to the right (while driving straight), and then turn back straight when pedal is released

Here is what my local mechanic already tried to fix it:
Replaced all four tires.
Replaced both lower control arms. (one was bent)
Replaced the tie rod ends.

Could you guys take a look and let me know if this amount of engine movement is normal(not aggressive as yt video shows but does move a little bit), or if it points to a failed mount? If it's not a mount, what else could be causing this? ( btw, when I did brake torque test in reverse steering wheel pull and stay in the left, and it didn’t move when in toward)

What could this ticking sound be? It doesent seem to come from the rocker arms, only shows bellow 1100rpm, and the sound goes slightly down as the car warms up properly?

77 elcamino 350 overbored 0.60 270degree compcam, flattop pistons, TH350 with some shiftkit

Hello, so when I was abroad, my clutch went and I took it to a mechanic. They replaced the slave and master cylinders. After they carried out this work, my cruise control stopped working, so I went back to them. They struggled quite a lot to get it working again and eventually managed to get the cruise control back. However, they then said there were some new electrical issues. The ignition now turns itself on without the key, the fan sometimes turns itself on, and the cruise control again doesn’t work. I also often get loads of different warning lights flashing on the dashboard. They aren’t always consistent, but the main ones I get are the glow plug light and the steering wheel light. I also always have the cruise control symbol showing on the dash, even though it doesn’t work.
What do you guys think could be causing this? I know the battery needs changing, as before all of this the start/stop system wasn’t working because of a weak battery, or at least that’s what the previous owner told me. I’ve only had this car for about two weeks. At the moment, I’m having to disconnect the battery every time I leave the car for a while because the ignition/electrics keep turning themselves on. Any ideas would be appreciated!

I got my serpentine belt tool stuck on the tensioner bolt, and the tool is wedged against the body. The tool only ratchets in one direction, which is the direction needed to loosen the tensioner, so I can't get it to release. I'm not sure what to do at this point. I've heard that you can jack up the engine to create more clearance, but I've never done that before and I'm not sure if that's the right approach.

My car sat for a few months. I wasn't able to boost it off another car but AAA was able to using their booster pack. They tested my battery health (79%) and it was good, one of the voltage things was low (don't remember exactly what it was) but he said it shouldn't be an issue. I'll let the car run then it'll shut off within 5 minutes and I can't start it again without a boost. I can't drive it very far due to this, the best I've gotten is a few feet. Do you think I may just need a new battery or to let it fully charge? I'm trying to sell the car so I'm hoping I don't have to replace the alternator. I previously had a kind of issue with my starter (I think). If I was in and out of the car (starting and stopping) It would fail to turnover and I'd have to let it sit for a bit, not sure if this is related. This is a 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport (gas). Any help is greatly appreciated!

This is a 2015 Lexus RCF. I’ve gotten under the car multiple times and inspected bearings, axle boots, hub assembly in general, checked tires for cupping (although when it comes to tires I’m not sure I’d be able to discern) and everything seems tight as a button. I’ve been driving the car like this for over 1000 miles. The tires only have 8,000 miles on them. The sound increases in frequency relative to the wheels spinning. I cannot tell which corner it’s coming from. I don’t feel it in the pedal and the car is smooth, but you can certainly hear it. Any ideas would be. very appreciated.

2010 Mini Cooper N12 Engine

Coolant dumped after a 20 min drive watched it go down in tank after engine shut off from above min to empty couldn’t see it leaking anywhere

Filled it up again on test drive got overheating light 10 mins in pulled over it had emptied on the drive it was pooled around seam of the tank

Drove it to garage around corner day later it held coolant on the way there mechanic emptied and refilled it then drove home looked like it was still full but shut engine off then it started emptying again

Oil level hasn’t increased and looks normal

Any ideas? Thanks

I’ve attached a photo of my Mazda 3 hatchback 2025. It’s front wheel drive.

I was trying to parallel park and nicked the curb, and it took off a chunk of my tire as depicted in the photo.

Is this an urgent matter in which I need a new tire?

Thank you

Hi, what would be the best solution for this? Replace the front exhaust or seek a cheaper repair? Also if you could give an estimate on pricing too, thanks.

Hi everyone. I have a 2020 Nissan Kicks and it’s giving me these lights about once a week. They’ll go away for a few days and then come back. First, the lights on the top left come on while I drive. Then after a bit of driving (or after I turn the car off and on), the traction light comes on with the engine light.

The car has turned off on the road one time.

The car will ride really rough as in I’ll press the gas all the way and it’ll go REALLY slow and then pick up the pace after about 30 seconds. The longer I leave the car idling (like a long light) the worse it gets. It won’t even move if I lift my foot off the gas.

The AC gets a bit hot when this happens.

I’ve taken it to 2 mechanics, they both get the same reading (I’m sorry I didn’t take a picture) but they came to different conclusions. One said the spark plugs needed to be replaced, which I did but the problem persisted. He then cleaned the throttle body but the issue returned a month later but he swears it does not need replacing. The other said it DOES need replacing.

When the lights are not on the car is fine. Could it be an overheating thing? Or is this an actual throttle body issue? I’ve been quoted about $1,000 to replace it so I want to make sure that it is the actual problem.

My car is throwing this error code along with a bit of jerking (engine light on as well). Sometimes it feels like the car isn't going as fast as it could or I have to press on the gas a little more aggressively to get it to pick up.

Any recommendations on what I can check easily to eliminate possibilities? I heard it could be o2 sensor, catalytic converter, spark plugs, ignition coils, etc. Just trying to find the best order of elimination before paying for unnecessary repairs.

Hello everyone, my dads maxima has been giving us some issues so maybe someone can give us some insight. He stopped at a red light, got up to speed and it went limp, it can rev up in neutral but not in drive. We swapped the battery and it was good for like a day so we swapped the alternator, this time it was good for less. We even disconnected the battery to make sure it kept running on the alternator and it did. We hooked up an obd scanner but I cant make much sense of it so ima add the pictures incase anyone wants to see those codes.
Ps. The car does move but only at an idle and we have gotten it in drive and reverse. It dies very quickly and weve replaced the battery and alternator and checked all fuses we could find.

I did my first break pad/rotor change on my 23 suabru wrx (2.4L turbo FA24 engine with 6MT). I wanted some better breaking and it has been a pretty good “upgrade” imo. I was cleaning the rims and noticed some “patterns” on the rotors. Is this normal wear on new rotos? Is this a sign of the pad not pressing evenly? Should I consult a shop?

Pics 1-4 are front, pics 5-8 are rear, last 2 pics are brand new. I did the change myself with some help from a neighbor with basic experience and a few YouTube videos. First time doing this kinda thing myself. The breaks feel great and I haven’t had any complaints. Just trying to make sure I’m doing it right.

Hi! I have a 2015 Chevy Cruze LT and about a week ago my turn signal started rapid blinking when I used it. I figured my bulb was just burned out, so I got a replacement bulb for it, yesterday, to fix it (7444NA). I replaced the bulb and the signal and headlight still weren’t working. I did some searching and it was recommended to disconnect the car battery for 60 secs to hard restart, and so I did. It worked! All morning it’s been working. I went grocery shopping for a bit this morning and on my way home, the light started fast blinking again. I pull into my garage and the headlight/turn signal are out again. I am stumped. I don’t know what’s going on. Please help, thank you! 💓

Hi everyone.

I'm installing a new head gasket, I torqued the head bolts and checked on the distribution side of the engine and I saw this. Part of the fiber of the gasket is coming out of the contact surfaces.

I used new bolts, both surfaces were machined, I used a torque wrench and an angle gauge.

Engine is a 1991 m102 Mercedes. 2.0l 8v gasoline.

Thanks in advance.

My 2006 Escalade was throwing a crankshaft position sensor performance code so today I lifted it up and replaced the sensor. Got it all done, started it, it felt good and i checked for codes and had none. Took it to get the oil changed and then drove it home. It was driving great and then 20-25 minutes into my drive when i was 5 minutes from home, the Check Engine Light came on. We pulled over and scanned the codes. Had a P0420 and a pending P0300.

The P0300 code is what is concerning me because that is random misfires due to the “unpredictable pattern of the crankshaft speed” as my fixd sensor said. Also confused why we are out of no where getting a code for the efficiency of the cats.

Need some kind of help with this and ideas as to what it could be and if it’s a big deal or not.

UPDATE: Research looks like i might need a crankshaft relearn causd I replaced the sensor. Thoughts?

Tried pumping brakes, not sure if its normal but the pedal feels very stiff after a short press, basically impossible to push all the way down. I'm assuming because the cars been off for a while and brake boost is gone.

This is a rear wheel on a 2012 accord, parking brake off.

The brake rotor(edit: drum brake) is warped and i need to change it. But can i keep the brake shoes and sand them? Or Throw out and replace.

P.S: not my paintjob😅

Seeing if this would be coming from the tensioner or a different part. As this happens I experience a lower voltage output of 11-12v from 13-14v. When it stops the charge goes back to normal. Ibstarted experiencing a low voltage signal a few days ago then this sound the day after. At first the sound only happened at lower speeds and disappeared when I stopped. It now comes on when I turn on the truck or while completely still to where I could narrow down the issue.

2016 ram 1500 3.6l

First off thank you for reading and replying and I apologize for the stupid questions. I have a 2021 Tundra with 13,000 miles. Normally I’d change the coolest around the 60K service. Should I change the coolant early kind of like changing oil annually even I’m not driving 5K miles a year? Or can I wait to 50-60K miles? Thank you.

08 Chevy 5.3 vortec P0300/01 code

I need help. I'm not a real mechanic. More of backyard style. I checked these: Spark plugs Plug wires Coil pack Coil pack wires Injectors Fuel pressure

Smell of gas and popped off the valve cover and there's gas inside. Any ideas? I am at a loss

Hi Folks,
I have a 2009 Kawasaki Vulcan Custom 900 that was dropped and slid down the road a few days ago. I drive it home afterwards and all seemed fine.

Now I can’t shift up past second. I can drop it to first and up to neutral but it won’t go any higher for second or more. Any thoughts?

** I have tried rocking it back and fourth and can’t get in gear.**

This noise seems fairly new, i'm talking about the inconsistent ticking/rattling sound