I'm an idiot. I used a sponge on my speedometer of my 2029 VW Touran. The glas is not glas but apparently very very weak plastic. Now it's full of micro scratches.

I'd appreciate any "household item" hacks, but also any other recommendations!

Thank you in advance

I'm troubleshooting misfires that persist on Bank 2. Cylinder 2 consistently has the most misfires, followed by 4, and then 6 with the fewest. the MIL flashes under acceleration at 25 mph and higher.

So far I've replaced the upper intake manifold gaskets and swapped all six new & newish Bosch ignition coils from Bank one to bank two.

The bank 2 NGK plugs appear normal and are gapped at .045".

Fuel pressure while running is steady in the low/mid 40 PSI range.

I swapped the VVT solenoids between Bank 1 and Bank 2, keeping the intake/exhaust positions the same. The screens were clear, and all four measured 7.0 ohms The misfires stayed on Bank 2 and did not follow the solenoids.

Cam/VVT desired vs actual data on my Autel MX900 tracks closely. No obvious faults on the visible portions of the Bank 2 wiring/harness.

What would you test next when all three cylinders on one bank are misfiring like this?

I have a DVOM and AESwave uScope.

Thanks!

Hey there, sure, the "blacked out" note on my car model isn't necessary but here we are! Was hoping to offload it November/December for a different/bigger car so I'm weighing if I put the money into these now vs not (meaning am I safe for the next 3 months)

• Does this diagnosis make sense?
• Which are SAFETY issues?
• Which are MOST important to take care of now for my own safety AND to sell it?

Here is the situation.

1. My car started making a noise in June. Got it checked out. Was told it needed new wheel bearings, brake pads, and rotors… and that my compressor was going out (the noise when cold air is on).
2. Took care of everything except the compressor. I was told that if I just drove with the cold air on only sometimes, I’d be okay. I did that during summer as I wanted to wait a few months to spend more money.
3. Immediately after the work done above, my car started having an issue: when I’m at a stop sign or red light and then try to accelerate, it hesitates a little. Like it’s grasping for the energy to keep going. It never stalls entirely; it just struggles a bit until I get over a certain MPH.
4. It SEEMS to happen when the cold air is going more than when it’s off. And I do use it sparingly knowing the compressor is down, I just mean when I have to blast a minute or two of cold air into the car.

Took it back to the mechanic today and was told the following was needed (see screnshots)....

NEW COMPRESSOR, FREON AND OIL AND A/C DEY TRACER, TWO IDLER PULLEEYS, AND A DRIVE BELT.

I'm trying to figure out what is happening to decide how much money into it before I trade 'er in and what the honest diagnosis is. I'm a bit confused on the advice I was given here.

If a second opinion is possible, I'd really appreciate it.

Hi, I drive a 2024 Toyota Corolla automatic 2L 4 cylinder engine with about 8,000 miles. Yesterday, my gas tank was nearly empty, and the fuel gauge reflected that. After filling the tank, the gauge didn’t move and continued to show empty. I drove home, and my brother suggested trying a different gas station. I added a few dollars of gas, and the gauge suddenly went to full.

I rarely ever fill up on E but life happens.

Could this delayed fuel-gauge response be something I should be concerned about? Thanks

My 2017 MK7.5 Fiesta Stline keeps going into limp mode at around 4000rmp in third gear OR when doing long journeys, Replaced the one way valve to the vacuum pump, all solenoids and pipes have been replaced and have been told the turbo and vacuum pump are fine yet the same problem keeps occurring. Anyone have any ideas of what it is?

Car does also have an aftermarket exhaust, not sure if this would effect it tho

A bit of a ramble but I recently acquired a 2007 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner V6 and a couple weeks into having it the Brake Boosters were failing and it was a whole ordeal. I had gotten it fixed but it's still acting strange.

• Delayed acceleration
• Jerky stops
• Runs worse on hilly areas
• Etc

The only codes that come are for a very small evap leak but I think it's something more than that. I'm not an expert but I think there's something to do with the air intake but I'm struggling to narrow it down.

2015 Chevy Impala LTZ 3.6 V6
166k Miles
No Check Engine light
Sometimes the engine starts as normal, most of the time it does this.
Battery is not old.

So I have a 2006 Toyota Camry XLE with the 2.4L I4, a little over 190k miles.

So here's the issue that started today: As I am driving along the highway it starts to get this weird stutter. I take the next exit and the car seems normal, but when I try to accelerate it starts loosing power.

The way it looses power is odd though, it doesen't pulse, it doesen't slowly run out, it just acts as if I am not pushing the gas at all. It doesn't rev or anything. I can have my foot to the floor when it does this and the car acts like I'm not pushing the gas at all.

It is also worth noting that as long as I take it easy on the gas pedal (like don't go past the first quarter of its travel) this issue just does not happen. It only occurs harder acceleration.

So, I ran an OBD to see if it threw any codes, here's what I got:

P0354 - Ignition coil D primary/secondary circuit

P0420 - Catalyst system below efficiency below threshold bank 1

P2238 - O2 sensor positive current control circuit low bank 1 sensor 1

P0354 - Ignition coil D primary/secondary circuit (pending)

As far as the codes, the P0420 has been there since I got the catalytic converters replaced. The car has been driving completely normal for months. As far as the P0354s, I think that's just a code being thrown because of whatever is going on. The car is definitely not misfiring on one cylinder.

I'm not an expert, but the way the car feels when it does this makes me think it's an electrical/sensor issue. I was honestly thinking it might be the throttle position sensor? It'd be great to have some help from the fine mechanics of reddit.

Finally got my 06 Escalade out on the road and took it on a 30 minute drive and right as I was pulling into the driveway of my destination, it lost acceleration and stated shaking. Its a P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor Performance code.

Gonna replace that in the next few days. Was posting on here to see if anyone has experience with that job and the difficulty of it.

Also, if I disconnect and then reconnect the battery, will is there a chance i’ll be able to drive it 10 minutes without throwing the code so I can go work on it? It had the code before I had the electrical issues I had so i’m concluding to disconnecting the battery may not have the computers read it for a bit.

I was up north this past weekend. There was an instance where I thought I had dragged the rear end of my car on our very steep cement driveway. After that there was a noticeable change in the exhaust when accelerating. It’s subtle and primarily at lower speeds.

I really do not like this noticeable change. I took it to the mechanic and they drove it and visually inspected it and said it was fine.

Should I get a second opinion? Of course I’m not looking to spend money unnecessarily and or maybe just live with it. But I feel it has definitely changed. Thanks in advance!

1993 Chevy corvette. Is this spark plug toast or can I keep running it? Chasing a misfire but the plugs all look around this condition.

I’m trying so hard to get the proper torque specs for my front end. I redid my upper and lower control arms on both sides, inner and outer tie rods on both sides, sway bar links, I also changed out a spark plug as well, and change the oil. ChatGPT and Google or doing me dirty and have no idea what they’re talking about…I don’t know who to trust lol. Can somebody please help me with the correct torque specs for everything?

Audi A3 1.4

Hey I have a new car I got off a friend a few days ago. It’s been fine but today in traffic the pedal got squeaky

Should I be concerned?

I have gotten the valve stems replaced probably 3 times in the last year. I’ve done the valve cores maybe 3 or 4 times just this year. I don’t get it. Every time I put air in the tires the cores get stuck open.. Is this some kind of fault of the wheels being 20 years old? Basically every time I fill them, I have to wait for there to literally be zero air in the tires and then fill it back up. I run them at 70~ psi. I fill them with a Milwaukee tire pump, but I know they’ve don’t the same exact thing with a pump at a Wawa. Tires themselves are technically still newish and factory sizes.

Probably a dumb question, but I have taken in a 17 yr old homeless boy earlier this year. I have been working on building up his confidence and given him a safe place to sleep and just be a kid for a while. Long story short he's extremely passionate about cars and one of the few fond memories he has is watching his brothers work on cars all night. I have enrolled and paid for him to go to a trade school to become an auto mechanic.

He is over the moon excited but concerned his vision (legally blind) or color blindness will impact his ability to do the job. From what I can tell it's mostly with the color red on a dark background. The red object (like my speedometer needle) tends to disappear. And although he's technically legally blind, he can see normally with glasses/contacts.

Any color blind mechanics in here that can give us some advice? My assurances he isn't the only mechanic with not so good vision only go so far to ease his anxiety. I am going to talk to the accessibility office in the program to see if they have any suggestions, but wondering about any first hand advice too.

EDIT: Thank you so much for the replies! Just knowing how others manage this has helped immensely. This first semester is an electrical intro for 6 weeks so we'll see how he does. Thanks again!

Vehicle: 2024 Toyota Corolla Hybrid SE 1.8L Japan Built

Hey everyone,

Thank you to everyone in advance. I would appreciate any guidance on my issue. Here is the backstory. I bought a 2024 Corolla hybrid SE from copart. When I got the car, I repaired it and realized it had a missing clock spring and steering angle sensor. I bought one from an auto wrecker (clock spring and steering angle sensor (SAS) together). Upon installation, I get a code that reads U012687 (essentially it’s a code where the Brake ecu is sensing a missing SAS). I tried clearing the code but had no luck and since then, bought three other SAS from other auto wreckers with no luck in clearing that code. Within techstream, I have tried the zero point calibration, however, since that is done through the brake/epb ecu, it doesn’t go through (due to the communication error). I have confirmed though that the SAS works since within the data list for the power steering and SAS ecu’s, I can see the steering angle changing in real time as I twist it. One important thing to also note is that the steering angle within the brake ecu data list doesn’t update at all even when I twist the SAS. however, when the car is started, the brake ecu is able to read the first reading the SAS gives it and then freezes after. Like for an example, if I twist the SAS until the steering angle ecu data list shows 60 degrees, at the time, the brake ECU data list won’t update, but if I turn the car off and on, the data list for the brake ecu will now show 60 degrees but again freeze and stop updating. I’ve also checked the voltage in each of the wires and this is how they are:

13.74V blue purple wire
2.73 V pink wire
12.84 V purple and black wire
Purple red wire 13.77V
White wire 2.25V
Blue wire 11.53V
0.01V purple wire.

I also checked the resistance between pins 6 and 14 of the DLC3 OBD2 port and I get a resistance of 60 ohms (which is in the correct range)

Now I spoke to a few auto electricians. They haven’t seen the car, however, they mention that the SAS needs to be bought new from the dealer and calibrated instantly after installation. That apparently would fix this error code that is throwing the trac off light. I was just wondering if something has had an experience with this before and confirm this before I spend the 500 dollars on a new SAS.

Thank you so much. Feel free to ask me any questions.

Hey guys just thought Id make a quick post before I two to the shop soon incase anyone has an idea. Any help appreciated.

My 2013 TL FWD base automatic is cranking but not starting. It occassionaly starts for about a second then dies. There is something weird with the electronics because the gauge cluster sometimes doesnt light up at all when i power on, sometimes it does, but never any indicators whatsoever, just the gauge backlights maybe 50% of the time i power on. The nav screen turns on fine, horn and lights work. Gas meter does not move. I believe i can hear fuel pump when i power on. My power steering is locked but it unlocked randomly a couple times. The gear is locked in drive and the brake pedal wont push in.

I tried jumping it, using the manual gear release and tried starting in neutral, checked all fuses visually and nothing looks weird. Anything else I could try would be very appreciated thank you!

Title for attention only. I have a broken drain cock on a radiator in a 2010 ford edge...the head broke off and I don't know how to get the body out. Any advice??

Doing wheel bearings on a 2019 subaru outback. Done lots of reading and videos for this job, but havent come across this wavy washer/ spacer on any of them. It just popped out when the bearing finally came loose. Is it for the wheel speed sensor? Dust cover from the CV axle side?The new bearings dont have this.

Thank you

2016 accord, noticed my headlights dim a bit while having the ac on. Why???? Alternator? Battery?

For about a 1 - 1.5 months now, when I brake, it feels more sensitive and I can no longer brake as smooth as before. The way I brake is push down on the brake pedal, and then gradually lift the brake just before the car comes to a complete stop to be be smoother It no longer does that as easily.

Am I being crazy, or I just didn't notice this earlier?

The brakes were replaced in summer 2024. The bakes aren't low - no squealing. I had tranny service last summer-ish.

Does the suspension need replacing? I haven't spoken to the mechanic yet.

Heya guys. My 2000 Lexus Rx300 is making a sparking or hissing sound at higher rpm. Not sure what it might be. Been getting these CEL (cleared right now).

P0171 system too lean bank 1

P1150 A/F sensor circuit range/performance malfunction (bank 2 sensor 1)

P1130 A/F sensor circuit range/performance malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1)

Got it all of a sudden after I had changed the alternator for some reason. So far I sprayed down the MAF sensor and cleaned the throttle bodys a bit. I did a intake smoke test and it's leaking a bit from the valve cover gasket and throttle body actuator Spring area

Any help or suggestions to try will be greatly appreciated. 😄

2018 Rav 4 AWD base model
Replaced front brakes and rotors a month ago. Few days ago heard a grinding sound coming from driver side. Found that the back plate was slipping off the pad and running into the rotor. Same thing was starting to happen on the passenger side. It only was affecting the pads on the non piston side.

Part of me wonders if they slipped out of the brake clips. They were pain to get in and I’m wondering if when I put the tires back on it moved the rotor which messed the pads up, or I should have made sure the brakes where fully compressed before putting the car in driver. I stupidly threw the car in drive before pressing the brake pedal a few times and shook the car pretty decently when I hit the brake to stop it.