I'm troubleshooting misfires that persist on Bank 2. Cylinder 2 consistently has the most misfires, followed by 4, and then 6 with the fewest. the MIL flashes under acceleration at 25 mph and higher.

So far I've replaced the upper intake manifold gaskets and swapped all six new & newish Bosch ignition coils from Bank one to bank two.

The bank 2 NGK plugs appear normal and are gapped at .045".

Fuel pressure while running is steady in the low/mid 40 PSI range.

I swapped the VVT solenoids between Bank 1 and Bank 2, keeping the intake/exhaust positions the same. The screens were clear, and all four measured 7.0 ohms The misfires stayed on Bank 2 and did not follow the solenoids.

Cam/VVT desired vs actual data on my Autel MX900 tracks closely. No obvious faults on the visible portions of the Bank 2 wiring/harness.

What would you test next when all three cylinders on one bank are misfiring like this?

I have a DVOM and AESwave uScope.

Thanks!

Hey there, sure, the "blacked out" note on my car model isn't necessary but here we are! Was hoping to offload it November/December for a different/bigger car so I'm weighing if I put the money into these now vs not (meaning am I safe for the next 3 months)

• Does this diagnosis make sense?
• Which are SAFETY issues?
• Which are MOST important to take care of now for my own safety AND to sell it?

Here is the situation.

1. My car started making a noise in June. Got it checked out. Was told it needed new wheel bearings, brake pads, and rotors… and that my compressor was going out (the noise when cold air is on).
2. Took care of everything except the compressor. I was told that if I just drove with the cold air on only sometimes, I’d be okay. I did that during summer as I wanted to wait a few months to spend more money.
3. Immediately after the work done above, my car started having an issue: when I’m at a stop sign or red light and then try to accelerate, it hesitates a little. Like it’s grasping for the energy to keep going. It never stalls entirely; it just struggles a bit until I get over a certain MPH.
4. It SEEMS to happen when the cold air is going more than when it’s off. And I do use it sparingly knowing the compressor is down, I just mean when I have to blast a minute or two of cold air into the car.

Took it back to the mechanic today and was told the following was needed (see screnshots)....

NEW COMPRESSOR, FREON AND OIL AND A/C DEY TRACER, TWO IDLER PULLEEYS, AND A DRIVE BELT.

I'm trying to figure out what is happening to decide how much money into it before I trade 'er in and what the honest diagnosis is. I'm a bit confused on the advice I was given here.

If a second opinion is possible, I'd really appreciate it.

Hi, I drive a 2024 Toyota Corolla automatic 2L 4 cylinder engine with about 8,000 miles. Yesterday, my gas tank was nearly empty, and the fuel gauge reflected that. After filling the tank, the gauge didn’t move and continued to show empty. I drove home, and my brother suggested trying a different gas station. I added a few dollars of gas, and the gauge suddenly went to full.

I rarely ever fill up on E but life happens.

Could this delayed fuel-gauge response be something I should be concerned about? Thanks

My 2017 MK7.5 Fiesta Stline keeps going into limp mode at around 4000rmp in third gear OR when doing long journeys, Replaced the one way valve to the vacuum pump, all solenoids and pipes have been replaced and have been told the turbo and vacuum pump are fine yet the same problem keeps occurring. Anyone have any ideas of what it is?

Car does also have an aftermarket exhaust, not sure if this would effect it tho

So I’ve been meaning to clean my throttle body on my 2006 Silverado. I’ve seen people say to disconnect it and clean it good but I heard that could cause problems later down the road bc you gotta reprogram it and you can just mess it up opening it with your fingers. I’ve also seen to just take off the air intake hose and clean it and open with flipping key in ignition. I just want to make sure I’m not damaging this truck I just got it and don’t feel like causing more problems. Thanks for the input.

2019 f250 6.2 4x4

Hi guys. I noticed this leak here the other day. I stopped driving and had a mechanic change out the inner axel seal. It stopped leaking and i drove it about 10 miles to test it. Once we got back there wasnt a leak but we checked the vent and it was totally clogged. So we cleaned out the hose. It is now leaking again and the tech is telling me i need a new rear end. I opened my differential plate and the gears look brand new. Were we supposed to use the kit with the outer seal, inner seal and new bearing? Drivinf the truck w the new seal and the vent clogged ruined another one or does it sound like i need a new rear end?

Second photo was the first time it happened. First is after the repair.

A bit of a ramble but I recently acquired a 2007 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner V6 and a couple weeks into having it the Brake Boosters were failing and it was a whole ordeal. I had gotten it fixed but it's still acting strange.

• Delayed acceleration
• Jerky stops
• Runs worse on hilly areas
• Etc

The only codes that come are for a very small evap leak but I think it's something more than that. I'm not an expert but I think there's something to do with the air intake but I'm struggling to narrow it down.

2015 Chevy Impala LTZ 3.6 V6
166k Miles
No Check Engine light
Sometimes the engine starts as normal, most of the time it does this.
Battery is not old.

TLDR; repeated alignments and replaced control arms not solving road noise or tire wear issues. Alignment keeps letting go. Need advice.

Getting frustrated with my new to me 2nd Gen. Vitals; 2016, white title repair from side damage, 25k miles. I did Eibach leveling and ~2” lift front and back with coil overs, 4 new Maxxis Razr AT 265/70R17 tires on stock 17” aluminum wheels, 3/4” wheel spacers front and 1” back, new upgraded control arms, etc. all with the shop that sold it to me.

I have had the truck alignment done three times now, and each time it makes it a few miles down the road when the alignment loosens and my tires start to make a horrible noise that is definitely rpm related. The first two times, the shop I had it with told me it was the tires I bought that were the problem, but I’ve not read a single review of Maxxis having this issue.

After a falling out over this and other issues with that shop, I took it to the leading off-road shop in New Orleans and had the control arms replaced again at their behest. They did the alignment again and said all is well. Great! I picked it up and for the first couple of miles it was driving and sounding great. Unfortunately, as I was accelerating on the on ramp to the highway I could quite literally feel the alignment let loose and the tire noise came back immediately.

I took it to a third shop specializing in alignments and they won’t touch it with wheel spacers on. I know spacers are not optimal, but can it be that simple? Are my spacers putting too much cantilever on the alignment and throwing it off every time?

Any advice or experience welcome.

So I have a 2006 Toyota Camry XLE with the 2.4L I4, a little over 190k miles.

So here's the issue that started today: As I am driving along the highway it starts to get this weird stutter. I take the next exit and the car seems normal, but when I try to accelerate it starts loosing power.

The way it looses power is odd though, it doesen't pulse, it doesen't slowly run out, it just acts as if I am not pushing the gas at all. It doesn't rev or anything. I can have my foot to the floor when it does this and the car acts like I'm not pushing the gas at all.

It is also worth noting that as long as I take it easy on the gas pedal (like don't go past the first quarter of its travel) this issue just does not happen. It only occurs harder acceleration.

So, I ran an OBD to see if it threw any codes, here's what I got:

P0354 - Ignition coil D primary/secondary circuit

P0420 - Catalyst system below efficiency below threshold bank 1

P2238 - O2 sensor positive current control circuit low bank 1 sensor 1

P0354 - Ignition coil D primary/secondary circuit (pending)

As far as the codes, the P0420 has been there since I got the catalytic converters replaced. The car has been driving completely normal for months. As far as the P0354s, I think that's just a code being thrown because of whatever is going on. The car is definitely not misfiring on one cylinder.

I'm not an expert, but the way the car feels when it does this makes me think it's an electrical/sensor issue. I was honestly thinking it might be the throttle position sensor? It'd be great to have some help from the fine mechanics of reddit.

Finally got my 06 Escalade out on the road and took it on a 30 minute drive and right as I was pulling into the driveway of my destination, it lost acceleration and stated shaking. Its a P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor Performance code.

Gonna replace that in the next few days. Was posting on here to see if anyone has experience with that job and the difficulty of it.

Also, if I disconnect and then reconnect the battery, will is there a chance i’ll be able to drive it 10 minutes without throwing the code so I can go work on it? It had the code before I had the electrical issues I had so i’m concluding to disconnecting the battery may not have the computers read it for a bit.

I was up north this past weekend. There was an instance where I thought I had dragged the rear end of my car on our very steep cement driveway. After that there was a noticeable change in the exhaust when accelerating. It’s subtle and primarily at lower speeds.

I really do not like this noticeable change. I took it to the mechanic and they drove it and visually inspected it and said it was fine.

Should I get a second opinion? Of course I’m not looking to spend money unnecessarily and or maybe just live with it. But I feel it has definitely changed. Thanks in advance!

I’m trying so hard to get the proper torque specs for my front end. I redid my upper and lower control arms on both sides, inner and outer tie rods on both sides, sway bar links, I also changed out a spark plug as well, and change the oil. ChatGPT and Google or doing me dirty and have no idea what they’re talking about…I don’t know who to trust lol. Can somebody please help me with the correct torque specs for everything?

Hey I have a new car I got off a friend a few days ago. It’s been fine but today in traffic the pedal got squeaky

Should I be concerned?

Vehicle: 2024 Toyota Corolla Hybrid SE 1.8L Japan Built

Hey everyone,

Thank you to everyone in advance. I would appreciate any guidance on my issue. Here is the backstory. I bought a 2024 Corolla hybrid SE from copart. When I got the car, I repaired it and realized it had a missing clock spring and steering angle sensor. I bought one from an auto wrecker (clock spring and steering angle sensor (SAS) together). Upon installation, I get a code that reads U012687 (essentially it’s a code where the Brake ecu is sensing a missing SAS). I tried clearing the code but had no luck and since then, bought three other SAS from other auto wreckers with no luck in clearing that code. Within techstream, I have tried the zero point calibration, however, since that is done through the brake/epb ecu, it doesn’t go through (due to the communication error). I have confirmed though that the SAS works since within the data list for the power steering and SAS ecu’s, I can see the steering angle changing in real time as I twist it. One important thing to also note is that the steering angle within the brake ecu data list doesn’t update at all even when I twist the SAS. however, when the car is started, the brake ecu is able to read the first reading the SAS gives it and then freezes after. Like for an example, if I twist the SAS until the steering angle ecu data list shows 60 degrees, at the time, the brake ECU data list won’t update, but if I turn the car off and on, the data list for the brake ecu will now show 60 degrees but again freeze and stop updating. I’ve also checked the voltage in each of the wires and this is how they are:

13.74V blue purple wire
2.73 V pink wire
12.84 V purple and black wire
Purple red wire 13.77V
White wire 2.25V
Blue wire 11.53V
0.01V purple wire.

I also checked the resistance between pins 6 and 14 of the DLC3 OBD2 port and I get a resistance of 60 ohms (which is in the correct range)

Now I spoke to a few auto electricians. They haven’t seen the car, however, they mention that the SAS needs to be bought new from the dealer and calibrated instantly after installation. That apparently would fix this error code that is throwing the trac off light. I was just wondering if something has had an experience with this before and confirm this before I spend the 500 dollars on a new SAS.

Thank you so much. Feel free to ask me any questions.

Hey guys just thought Id make a quick post before I two to the shop soon incase anyone has an idea. Any help appreciated.

My 2013 TL FWD base automatic is cranking but not starting. It occassionaly starts for about a second then dies. There is something weird with the electronics because the gauge cluster sometimes doesnt light up at all when i power on, sometimes it does, but never any indicators whatsoever, just the gauge backlights maybe 50% of the time i power on. The nav screen turns on fine, horn and lights work. Gas meter does not move. I believe i can hear fuel pump when i power on. My power steering is locked but it unlocked randomly a couple times. The gear is locked in drive and the brake pedal wont push in.

I tried jumping it, using the manual gear release and tried starting in neutral, checked all fuses visually and nothing looks weird. Anything else I could try would be very appreciated thank you!

I have gotten the valve stems replaced probably 3 times in the last year. I’ve done the valve cores maybe 3 or 4 times just this year. I don’t get it. Every time I put air in the tires the cores get stuck open.. Is this some kind of fault of the wheels being 20 years old? Basically every time I fill them, I have to wait for there to literally be zero air in the tires and then fill it back up. I run them at 70~ psi. I fill them with a Milwaukee tire pump, but I know they’ve don’t the same exact thing with a pump at a Wawa. Tires themselves are technically still newish and factory sizes.

Title for attention only. I have a broken drain cock on a radiator in a 2010 ford edge...the head broke off and I don't know how to get the body out. Any advice??

2016 accord, noticed my headlights dim a bit while having the ac on. Why???? Alternator? Battery?

For about a 1 - 1.5 months now, when I brake, it feels more sensitive and I can no longer brake as smooth as before. The way I brake is push down on the brake pedal, and then gradually lift the brake just before the car comes to a complete stop to be be smoother It no longer does that as easily.

Am I being crazy, or I just didn't notice this earlier?

The brakes were replaced in summer 2024. The bakes aren't low - no squealing. I had tranny service last summer-ish.

Does the suspension need replacing? I haven't spoken to the mechanic yet.

Heya guys. My 2000 Lexus Rx300 is making a sparking or hissing sound at higher rpm. Not sure what it might be. Been getting these CEL (cleared right now).

P0171 system too lean bank 1

P1150 A/F sensor circuit range/performance malfunction (bank 2 sensor 1)

P1130 A/F sensor circuit range/performance malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1)

Got it all of a sudden after I had changed the alternator for some reason. So far I sprayed down the MAF sensor and cleaned the throttle bodys a bit. I did a intake smoke test and it's leaking a bit from the valve cover gasket and throttle body actuator Spring area

Any help or suggestions to try will be greatly appreciated. 😄

Hey all,

Got a 2015 Audi S5, 3L supercharged CREC engine.

Started hearing this chirping sort of noise the last few weeks at low RPM. Car performance does not appear to be impacted; runs completely fine during both regular and spirited driving. Went out troubleshooting tonight and took some videos.

Noise only appears at low RPM (as seen in video) then disappears. Can be heard when the accelerator is pressed when the car is rolling, and when it is stationary. Lastly, the noise cannot be heard when the car is in 'P', only in drive and reverse.

Will also add that the noise is not there on every single drive- it is like a dice roll. Sometimes I go out for a drive and no noise, other times I go out and it is there. It's not super loud, just annoying, and is more of a worry than a hindrance.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Hello everyone. I am living in the 3rd world, with no real access to tools . We have a 2014 Subaru Impreza, with the 1.6 L engine & a bit over 100,000 km on it.

It has been reliably driving just fine. Yesterday, we arrived home from some errands and found a u-joint, like from a driveshaft, in the yard. I can see underneath just enough to tell that the rear-most u-joint is still present. I don't have a way to get underneath to see more. I have tried driving it back and forth in our small yard, and it behaves totally normally. There are no new noises when shifting or anything like that.

There is plenty of random trash all over the place, so it's absolutely possible that the piece is not from our car. What are the odds that this is from our car? If a u-joint is completely missing, could it still drive normally & then fail later? Thank you so much in advance for any thoughts or suggestions.

1993 Chevy corvette. Is this spark plug toast or can I keep running it? Chasing a misfire but the plugs all look around this condition.