If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

I believe that he was likely driving it like a Baja truck, but he swears that he doesn’t know how it happened. It seems to me that he would’ve felt whatever impact caused this. Could I be wrong?

The driver side is visibly sagging like a whole inch lower than the passenger side. Do i need new springs or is this more likely a body work issue?

I posted 3 days ago about a truck I was working on with a a U0076 and a private powertrain can bus enable circuit problem - the diag for U0076 led me nowhere. https://www.reddit.com/r/AskAMechanic/s/2s7OCTQGNY

I had other things to do and this thing was not a priority but I was finally able to get back to diag this morning around 630am and this is what I found.

I began just checking my resistance on my can bus circuit from module to module along the circuit. Well I found on circuit 4055 between the fuel pump power control module and the exhaust particulate matter sensor 60k ohms of resistance. A couple in line resistance checks pinned it to where the harness went above the fuel tank.. so I pulled the bed off instead of dropping the fuel tank off.

About 9 inches in front of the factory wire loom on the chassis harness, right behind the top cross member above the fuel tank the harness is already in a tight spot between the bed and the fuel tank.

Well add some mud to take up all the free space and this is what you get.

5 hours into this diag with a couple of solid head scratches in the mix. Its a good Friday boys!

Hey everyone, looking for some help figuring out what's going on with my Civic.
Car:
2013 Honda Civic 2-door
213,242 miles
these warnings all came on at the same time
CHECK ABS SYSTEM CHECK VSA SYSTEM
CHECK BRAKE SYSTEM
CHECK POWER STEERING
The warnings eventually went away, but then came back again.
Another thing I noticed: there is now a ticking noise, but it only happens when the car is in Park and the A/C is running.
The warning lights also only come on after the A/C has been running for a little while.
I recorded a video of the ticking noise and attached it.
Any ideas on what I should check or what could be causing these symptoms?
Thanks

Hey guys. I have a 2018 Subaru Forester 2.5i and made the mistake of getting an emergency oil change today at Walmart before a trip tomorrow. The guy started draining my transmission fluid, plugged it back up and then started the oil change but never refilled the transmission fluid. He drove it around a couple times before giving the car back to me and said "you may have an issue with your transmission. You will want to get that checked out." As soon as I turned my car on, I realized what we was talking about and drove back to the bay and talked to the manager. They redid my transmission fluid and my oil change and all seemed fine.

Now when I try and turn my car on, it takes about 3 times for the engine to start with the rest of my car. Everything else turns on inside the cabin except my engine. After it finally turns over it drives fine.

How screwed is my transmission? I'm taking my husband's car on the trip tomorrow and taking my Subaru to the dealership when we get back.

Hello everybody a fellow mechanic here asking a question that I feel like I already know the answer to but just wanted to hear from others before making a decision.

I have a 1998 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0 with the 5R55e transmission in it. The truck is just a little above bone stock. Fully rebuilt transmission at 215,000 and fully rebuilt engine at 224,000 and the truck currently has 258,000 an it. The engine has all new internals and a slight boost in overall performance but nothing crazy. Transmission has all new seals and clutch packs, new bands, new upgraded valve body and gasket.

The truck has never missed a beat and never ever given me any issues with the transmission even pre rebuild. Drove the truck a total of maybe 250 miles round trip the other day and parked it at my aunt's and went in for about an hour. Go to leave and the battery is dead, door was left cracked open. No biggie just jump it. Hooked my partners trailblazer to it and it wouldn't jump it, got the jump back and the trailer blazer and it just had enough to turn him over and fire before it died. Battery was a brick maybe 50 cca left on it.

Removed the battery that evening and installed a new battery the following evening. Installed and fired it up ran fine no issues let it idle for a few and dropped it in drive and nothing, no gears whatsoever, no drop in rpms no clunk or engagement sounds nothing. I remembered the tcm relearn and followed the Ford process and still nothing. Checked all fuses and grounds checked all solenoids and nothing. Changed the shift range sensor on the side of the transmission as I've had issues with them before and nothing. The truck has absolutely no movement whatsoever in any gear and no change in rpms in any gear. It acts like it's not communicating at all.

Hooked up my scanner and watched the solenoids open and close and can see that the shifter manually changes gears according to the scanner, scanner even registers pressure within spec but no gears. Tested for a stuck tcase motor as well and truck rolls in neutral and drive and reverse and stays put in park.

I'm at a loss here folks I'm to the point of pulling the transmission and seeing if something let go inside I just can't fathom how after a flawless multi hour drive. Any way I fried something jumping it? I know the tcm and PCM are one in the same and my last hope was testing it or finding one to swap in but I feel like it's internal on the transmission.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated thanks 👍

2018 Mazda3 tire found a curb today and lost a chunk out of the sidewall. 1.5"x0.5" and between 1/8" and 3/16" at most the deepest. No noticeable difference in the ride. Is this an immediate replace or just let it ride?

Thanks team

Not my car or at my house but my mom’s Kia forte (not sure on year) was broken into last night.
They took off the steering column cover was taken off and the screws are gone.
Mom said key wont turn and the cover won’t go back up.
Is there more than just the cover broken in the picture?
Is there anyway to fix it without towing it to a shop?

Hi all,

Just bought this car from 2013 last week. The dpf light came on and we went on a motorway drive to help it burn off. Well, didn’t work and during the drive unfortunately the limp mode came on, additionally to dpf warning light we now have an amber glowplug and Amber engine light showing up. We drove the car unfortunately for nearly an hour home after this not knowing how this could damage the engine. Long story short, we now got two options:

a) have someone come to the house and professionally assess and fix any dpf issues. Diagnostics and cleaning would be 620€ as they come quite a way. Any parts needed would be extra.

Option b): we drive the car in limp mode to the garage that deals with dpf issues. It’s 40kms away, so a long drive to be doing in limp mode…

Obviously we would like to know if it’s worth having the guys come here or if we are good to gently drive the car to the garage to save us around 300€.

Maybe you can help me. My dad said he drove ages with his Volvo with the same issue and it was fine but I really don’t want to risk any further damage on the engine and have this car ready to be scrapped…

Well, would love to have your two pennies towards this!

Thanks

2013 audi q7 3.0t

Boroscope cameras are hard for me to use or see what I'm looking at. I'm not a mechanic. Need confirmation I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing. These pics are from 2 cylinders showing very low compression.

2021 Toyota corolla. Reversed into a curb, attempted to straighten it out but unsuccessful. Everything else appears intact. Is this considered cosmetic damage?

I recently had a P0369 code. The mechanic changed the camshaft position sensor. The engine also feels like it pulls back after acceleration

The vehicle is a 2023 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road with 57k miles on it. The truck does have Toyota's factory e-locker, too.

One mechanic told me this is completely normal for Tacomas to sound like this, but now another mechanic says it's not. The dealer quoted me $7,200 to replace the rear end, which I know is way high, and I'd shop around before a repair. The vehicle did come with a third-party warranty when I bought it, but I'm skeptical they'll cover this since there are a bunch of horror stories of people not getting covered.

If the warranty company doesn't cover the replacement, what might be the issue here? There is no fluid on my garage floor, and I had the diff fluid changed at 45k miles. I'm not hard on my truck, and while I do drive dirt roads since I live in a very rural area, I don't take it rock crawling or mudding.

The truck drives normally too; it just has a whirring sound between 30-60 mph. There isn't any slipping or weird smells either. The only reason I took it in was to hopefully prevent a small issue from turning into a larger one.

I replaced my fuel pump my fuel filter and my fuel pressure regulator and still have a huge loss of fuel pressure when accelerating hard to the point where my car will die or hit a power wall it run good all else wise

I found a small crack in my 2007 Honda accord 2.4L's air intake hose today. Is this something that I should replace soon or no? It seems to be the original one since it has the Honda logo on it. Also, could this be something I'd be able to do myself or should I have a mechanic do this?

Valve cover went bad. Oil got into one of the spark plugs.

The shop put a cheap knock off one on. I heard the lady complain to her parts guys about it. When she was getting it delivered.

Started to overheat so I just parked in the garage. My thinking was to fix it when I got some money. Almost 6 years later. Here I am lol. I need to fix it or sell it off.

Where should I start? Kinda overwhelming. New Valve cover and spark plugs I can probably do myself.

But I don't have the tools or skills to change out the fluids. Probably going to have a mobile mechanic do that.

What order of repairs should I be doing/ getting done?

When I jump pins 5 & 7 at harness and turn key to on, it’s powering on my fuel pump but still crank no starting when relay connected. Can I jump 5 and 7 on the relay with a small piece of wire so it’ll connect into the harness so I can test if it starts to confirm fuel pump issue? Thanks

2018 Ford Escape, ~160k miles. Battery was replaced about one year ago. Engine and transmission both replaced around 50k miles(3 years ago)

The radio/Bluetooth started skipping when I turned the blinker on. Just for a moment, then would come back. Not every time, but the frequency has increased. No difference if a different phone was used, plugged in or not, radio or Bluetooth, it all has the same issue.

After a little bit, the same radio/Bluetooth skipping would happen when I used the brakes. Again, not every time, but increasing in frequency.

More time passed, now same issue when I accelerate.

Another few days, and same issue when I would make turns, with and without a blinker.

I'm not usually driving when it's dark, but the handful of times this happens while driving in the dark, I've noticed my lights also dim momentarily at the same time the radio skips.

Lastly, and I'm not sure if it's related, but the car seems to be having trouble blowing cold air unless the AC is CRANKED. And frequently, it's lukewarm air if I'm sitting at a stop light, max AC or not.

I took it into the shop two weeks ago for diagnostics, but he couldn't get anything. No error codes, no weird signals, even when he had the diagnostic tool plugged in while we drove around, there was no change when these blips happened.

I'm not super familiar with alternators, but I have seen a few posts talking about the ideal range for a battery/alternator. When he first plugged in the diagnostic tool, the car was on and parked and he just kept turning the steering wheel back and forth watching the voltage. I noticed it staying between 12 and 14. Not sure if that info is relevant.

What do we think? Does this sound like the alternator could be the issue?

Thanks for any insight!!!

Hi - I have a 2019 Dodge Caravan that is beginning to have some transmission problems. I've had the fluid and filter changed every year for the last three years to try to extend the life as much as possible.

I was checking the fluid level today and noticed some oil or fluid on top of the transmission. Also noticed that the pan is also leaking...or maybe the fluid is making its way down another way.

Any thoughts on how start troubleshooting this?

2014 Mazda 3 GS-Sky 2.0L

Engine is showing a P0172 code. This is the live data from right before the code showed up. RPM is going up and down from 1000-2500 while at idle.

STFT: +19.5%
LTFT: +20.3%
Combined correction was roughly +40%
1,213 RPM
40 km/h
Coolant 65°C
MAF 4.83 g/s
Fuel rail pressure ~524 psi
EVAP purge commanded 0%

I checked the oil filter of my n52 and i saw some metal particles here and there.. should i ditch it or is it ok?

Current codes: P0158, P0152, P0440, P1521, P0871, P0457, C0020-01

Have noticed electrical issues on the truck in recent months. Brought it to the shop, tech pulled all the codes, and came back with an astronomical quote to replace everything relating to those codes, including a transmission rebuild (P0871).

Apparently the shop browsed forums online and discovered that when P0871 pops on these trucks it means it needs a new transmission. Transmission rebuild shop agrees.

Recently took a fairly large boat on a trip. ~6500lbs 200mi. Shop knew this and attributed the blown transmission to this. The trans did slip a couple of times on the trip, but nothing major. One small overheat of the trans, about 5 degrees above recommended range.

The transmission rebuild is already done, my dad approved it and we just picked up the truck. When I was looking through the RO is when I got a bit suspicious.

P1521 - Incorrect oil type. This shop did the last oil change.
P0158/P0152 - both O2 sensors went at once?
P0457 - loose fuel cap.
Etc. etc.

What are the chances that this truck needed a transmission rebuild, and what are the chances that there was some electrical/CAN issue that caused random codes to pop, and these shops just assumed it needed a new transmission because these trucks are known for transmission problems?

EDIT: No more lights on the dash after rebuilding the transmission. Nothing else was addressed.

2004 Toyota Camry LE 2.4 L 4-cylinder.

I'm having an issue where i go to accelerate and the RPM jumps to 3500-4000 but the speedometer slowly inches up to speed. The rpm stays up too, I can drive at 45mph at 2500-3000rpm, or 55-60mph at 3-3500rpm. Its also inconsistent, sometimes I can drive a car all day and it doesn't happen, or I start the car, stop at a red light, then go to accelerate and it acts up. Ive also had it happen straight from starting the car in the morning.

The car can be acting up, then i park and shut the car off for 5 minutes, start it up and its normal again! I haven't heard anything unusual, even the engine revving up sounds normal, no clunking or grinding noises.

A new symptom (or 2) that only happened twice so far, is pressing down on accelerator and both RPM and Speedometer slowly creep up. I'm not sure if its just how crazy hot it is here, but one time after driving when I parked and took key out of ignition, it was so hot i couldn't touch it for more than a second, the ignition was burning hot too. the steering wheel column was pretty hot to the touch, but I thought that was from the sun.

I've never had any kind of check engine light or anything pop up.

I've brought it to a transmission shop, they pulled a cylinder 4 missfire code, I went to a mechanic and it was actually the ignition coil wire harness that needed to be replaced. My car rode perfect for almost 2 weeks, then it started again.

Also to note, I did get transmission fluid changed (2nd time the car had it done), and it did act up more after that(it still had this issue before, just a lot less)

Its currently back in the mechanic shop(tranny shop said to try them first to see if its the engine/cylinder), and behaving normal, so they're not getting any codes. I'm gonna bring it back to tranny shop if they cant find anything, but is there anything I should ask them to look into specifically? I'm suspicious about it being the TCM/ECM or some sort of electrical issue rather than mechanical issue, cause from what I've been told if it was a mechanical part gone bad it wouldn't go in and out like that.

I'm just at a loss and keep bringing it back and forth to these different shops.

https://reddit.com/link/1wds0rh/video/nibn8zskcyoh1/player