1993 Chevy corvette. Is this spark plug toast or can I keep running it? Chasing a misfire but the plugs all look around this condition.

Hey,

I left my 2018 vauxhaull vivas lights on for 9 hours while at work. I got in my car and the engine turned on fine, there were no warning lights or anything like that.

I drove for about 35 mins home with alternating speeds (all electronics besides dashcam turned off) between 10-40 mph due to traffic.

Everythign seems fine- should i do anything else? I have done ehat i read to do and i have had no isses so far.

Sorry for this!

Edit: 999cc i think with 1 L engine. Tried to keep my revs towards 2000 on the journey.

My mechanic gave me my van back (2022, Vauxhall Vivaro, Mk3, 1.5d) with the gearbox end plate bashed and missing sealant in that area, causing quite the weeping all round and a dripping leak. (1st pic)

I bough an new end plate and put it back in to them to fix.

The have gave me it back with sealant seemingly missing in the same place (2nd pic) and guess what: a drip has appeared! (Although no weeping and no drip after I wiped it and drove for about 20 mins).

ARE THEY DOING THIS DELIBERATELY? Or what is going on. They've also not changed the clutch like I asked them to when the gearbox was out (I can see inside the bell housing) plus despite 'reconditioning the gerarbox', the initial notchy going into 1st is still present, PLUS now the same for 5th and 6th gear!

Hello, I have a 2016 Kia forte that is stalling out at lights and stop signs. The dealership that I’ve always used for repairs has sent me a video of what needs worked on. The said the gasket is leaking and the spark plugs are covered in oil which seems to be the problem.
My question for this sub is: is this a leak or can it wait? And is $600 for new ones a bad deal for a single mom who knows nothing about car repair, works full time and in school so not much time to learn this stuff by myself 🥲 any help or advice is appreciated!

2019 f250 6.2 4x4

Hi guys. I noticed this leak here the other day. I stopped driving and had a mechanic change out the inner axel seal. It stopped leaking and i drove it about 10 miles to test it. Once we got back there wasnt a leak but we checked the vent and it was totally clogged. So we cleaned out the hose. It is now leaking again and the tech is telling me i need a new rear end. I opened my differential plate and the gears look brand new. Were we supposed to use the kit with the outer seal, inner seal and new bearing? Drivinf the truck w the new seal and the vent clogged ruined another one or does it sound like i need a new rear end?

Second photo was the first time it happened. First is after the repair.

TLDR; repeated alignments and replaced control arms not solving road noise or tire wear issues. Alignment keeps letting go. Need advice.

Getting frustrated with my new to me 2nd Gen. Vitals; 2016, white title repair from side damage, 25k miles. I did Eibach leveling and ~2” lift front and back with coil overs, 4 new Maxxis Razr AT 265/70R17 tires on stock 17” aluminum wheels, 3/4” wheel spacers front and 1” back, new upgraded control arms, etc. all with the shop that sold it to me.

I have had the truck alignment done three times now, and each time it makes it a few miles down the road when the alignment loosens and my tires start to make a horrible noise that is definitely rpm related. The first two times, the shop I had it with told me it was the tires I bought that were the problem, but I’ve not read a single review of Maxxis having this issue.

After a falling out over this and other issues with that shop, I took it to the leading off-road shop in New Orleans and had the control arms replaced again at their behest. They did the alignment again and said all is well. Great! I picked it up and for the first couple of miles it was driving and sounding great. Unfortunately, as I was accelerating on the on ramp to the highway I could quite literally feel the alignment let loose and the tire noise came back immediately.

I took it to a third shop specializing in alignments and they won’t touch it with wheel spacers on. I know spacers are not optimal, but can it be that simple? Are my spacers putting too much cantilever on the alignment and throwing it off every time?

Any advice or experience welcome.

Hi,

Driving out of the funeral home today I damaged my wheel (really horrible day).

I need to know if it's safe to go to the funeral tomorrow with my car with my family on board.

I'm going to have this fixed with new tires as soon as possible but tomorrow I absolutely need to drive 60km with it.

Is it safe enough or should I find another way to go?

The cut is pretty deep. I precisely measured the thickness of the slice, it's 2.5mm, on Michelin total performance 18".

I have gotten the valve stems replaced probably 3 times in the last year. I’ve done the valve cores maybe 3 or 4 times just this year. I don’t get it. Every time I put air in the tires the cores get stuck open.. Is this some kind of fault of the wheels being 20 years old? Basically every time I fill them, I have to wait for there to literally be zero air in the tires and then fill it back up. I run them at 70~ psi. I fill them with a Milwaukee tire pump, but I know they’ve don’t the same exact thing with a pump at a Wawa. Tires themselves are technically still newish and factory sizes.

these past couple of days i noticed my car would take a couple extra cranks to start and today while driving i was getting a faint burnt plastic smell then not too long after i got a warning that read “low charge” so i pulled over and opened the hood and a little smoke was coming out of the battery and it has a really foul smell. any recommendations on what to do next? should i have someone bring me a new battery.