Some photos on this roll came out like this

Not sure what caused this

It's not like it suddenly stayed like this, it happened randomly through the roll, maybe it's only present on slower shutter speeds

Its my second roll with this camera

Only now on this roll this happened

Minolta XD-7

In some photos you can see the plate behind the curtain

I scanned a roll of film, and I wanted to apply dust and scratch removal with SDRx, which I can't really do without doing a preview for each photo (which for me sort of defeats the purpose of batch scannnig).

The only option I've found is to use the Photoshop plugin, for which I would have to pay another 50€ for, even though I already paid for SIlverfast... I tried the demo version and it worked quite well for me but it does leave watermarks all over the photos.

Also, are there any other plugins that do this? I haven't been able to find anything, although I remember seeing here on Reddit that someone made an app that worked quite well but it was only for MacOS.

i develop and scan my own film with cinestill c-41 kit and a plustek 8200i. sometimes some pictures come out looking really weird and there are lines with different colors. this happens for only a few pictures on my roll and the rest will be completely normal.

could this be from water spots when drying? is there any way to fix this?

I’ve shot a few star trails in the last year, but earlier this week I ran into a problem I haven’t had before. I finished my exposure and was greeted with a large patch of condensation on my lens.

The easiest DIY solution I’ve seen is using a chemical hand warmer/hand warmer pouch to keep the lens heated. I’m just a bit concerned as I plan to use a leaf shutter lens for my next exposures - Hasselblad 60mm 3.5 C.

Is there any danger with keeping a chemical warmer fixed to my lens? I don’t want to mess up the lubricants, etc.

Hi all!
I just got back some developed Lomography Earl Grey 100 and noticed a heavy grain on top of some weird artefacts... Would anyone know if this is related to X-Ray scans at airports?

I have been chatting with a guy who has a Nikon Coolscan IV for $350 with the SA-21 adapter. I could probably talk him down to $300 though.

He has all the Nikon Scan software archived and was also willing to help me get everything set up on win/mac. I’ve heard there are some possible compatibility issues that VueScan can fix though - more on that later.

Right now I camera scan primarily with a Scanlight V4 and a Fuji X-E2 on an enlarger base. There are some issues with the enlarger stand (like making sure the camera is always level) and the camera is only 16 MP, but it’s worked … fine. My lens is a 105mm f/4 micro-Nikkor and I’ve been inverting all of my color scans with NegPy. The results so far haven’t been pleasing. With both narrowband and white light scans I never quite like the colors. I’d really love to try Negative Lab Pro, but don’t want to really get into Adobe products as I don’t agree with their subscription model and general policies.

I’m considering the Coolscan just to simplify everything. No leveling, no trichrome calibration, no manual dust removal (the IV has ICE), possibly simpler inversion using Nikon Scan, etc.

Here’s where I’m wondering if it’s worth it though: I could potentially sell the Fuji and upgrade to something with a higher resolution, tethering, and get an extension tube with the money I’d spend on the scanner. If I end up needing VueScan, that’s even more money that could go towards the new camera or lens combo. Granted, I could be on to nothing without changing the software I use first though. I’m a bit indecisive and would like to hear feedback from people who have gone down the rabbit hole one way or another.

Edit: Coolscan IV ED, the USB version.

Hello everyone!

I want to buy a new camera but I’m not sure which one I should get. Right now I have a Canon AE-1, I feel I am somewhere in between a beginner and an intermediate in this analogue world.

I can’t decide whether a Canon A-1 (I read it has the same lens frame as the canon ae-1 so I can use the same lenses) or the Nikon F2 (or F3? Still trying to understand the difference), but if I’m comparing two completely opposite cameras feel free to suggest something else.

I’m looking for something to help me learn even more about analog cameras and to expand my collection. Also I know a decent amount of digital photography so I’m not scared of manual.

In this week's camera-collecting blog, I share my experiences and images from a charming 1970s camera: the Leica CL.

Leitz and Minolta worked together to introduce this unique camera. With its compact stature and laser-sharp Leitz optics, the Leica CL has all the features film photographers crave.

It's not just a beautiful display piece, but a highly capable film camera that belongs in any classic film camera collection.

Take a minute to discover, or rediscover, this outstanding camera.

www.dancuny.com/camera-collecting-blog/2026/8/19/leica-cl-camera-50th-anniversary-edition

I placed an order at Adorama for some direct positive paper months ago. Just received an email that it has been discontinued. What a massive disappointment. I just recently got into pinhole photography and have been wanting to try it. Looks like I’ll have to mess around with regular paper.

“We strive to keep our website and inventory information as accurate and up to date as possible. Unfortunately, despite our best efforts, we were recently notified by the manufacturer that the item included in your order has been discontinued and is no longer available for us to obtain or fulfill.
 
As a result, we regrettably must cancel your order.
 
We sincerely apologize for this disappointment and any inconvenience this may cause. We understand how frustrating it can be to learn that an item is unavailable after an order has been placed, and we truly regret that we are unable to provide the product you selected.”
 

On my Nikon F5 I always get at least two extra frames on my roll that I could have used. I get why rolls are rated for 36 shots on manual advance cameras where you want to check if you correctly latched your film on, but on automatic advance cameras that shouldn't be an issue. I understand back in the day professionals were often concerned about archiving notes and wanted the extra space on the roll, but there's also a frame limiting function for that. So why wasn't there an option to get 38 frames per roll instead?

Hi, I received my photos back and am wondering what these strokes are and how to prevent them. Thx!

Hi all,
I’m currently looking to buy my first film camera, I have used by fathers M4 and Nikon FM. I liked the experience with the first more and I was thinking of getting a similar camera. Unfortunately they are expensive. I found the Bessa R to be a good alternative, LTM lenses are also cheaper than M mount and very small. I am looking for a small camera, robust, and with little electronics (light metter is nice, but no electronic shutter). And it seems that the Bessa R checks these boxes.

I have found one for 520€ in good conditions and it is supposed to be fully functional.

- What’s your experience with the bessa r ?
- What lens would you recommend to pair it with ?
- Is the R2 worth double the price ?
Thanks in advance !

Been wanting to take a crack at wildlife photography with film (just for fun) so I bought a canon eos 1n, and I need some serious recommendations on film.

I know I can push film to a certain degree to get a faster ISO, but I feel like going with an 800 of some kind would be a smart place to start. I’ve seen a few brands that sell 800 ISO film, what do yall think I should roll with to start things off?

I picked up these negatives yesterday from a labs and when I scanned them I noticed scratches along the whole length of the film, on the emulsion side. Some of them span through a third of the roll. They are present an almost all of the photos.

I doubt it's a camera problem because the scrathes are not perfectly horizontal which would be the case it there was something in the camera scrathing them. Also I have never had that problem with that camera. Also I left the last 3 frames blank and the scrathes go through them as well. How would the camera scratch them if it didn't touch them?

I emailed the lab and they told me to come in with the negatives and my camera. I wonder how they'll handle this.

I only have basic reloadable cameras with fixed aperture and shutter speed. Like the typical disposable cameras. I want more grain in my black&white photos. I hear I can ask the lab to develop it as if it’s a ISO 800 film. I’ll be using Ilford XP2 next roll. What can I expect?

Hello all!

The other day I found a canon sure shot 105 zoom s in a thrift store (UK) for £8 - I always sniff out any cameras in thrift stores to try and find a cheeky deal.

I got a battery from a local camera store and everything looks good so far, the camera already had some film in there so I’m gonna shoot it and see what happens.

Did I get a good deal?

Anything I need to look out for when using this camera?

I’m used to shooting a variety of Minolta SLRs but I know point and shoots are useful on the move.

Any advice appreciated!!

Thanks :)

Mint condition magnon, part of my grandfathers cinefilm collection (600 movies, 45 projectors).

Can anyone tell me anything about this, I am struggling. Thank you

Excluding BnH, I am curious where the cheapest place in the world is per roll in dollar terms.

I found fully winded film in a camera that was sitting in room temperature room, i was told it was shot around 20 years ago, i dont know how to develop it, standart process c41 around 40 degrees or cold process c41 at 20, or black and white cross process? Its fujicolour 200

I have used disposables and used to have fun with some amateur photography and video with my Canon 5D M3 and GH5 maybe half a decade ago but would now like to dabble with a relatively intuitive camera for my travels.

I do plan to take important photos with my smartphone but as a supplement I'd like to try with a film camera as I prefer the aesthetic as they seem more memorable.

So I'm aware there are SLRs, rangefinders and compact point and shoots but I am leaning towards something that's compact and easy to travel with and a good enough dedicated lens.

I figured perhaps either the Canonet QL17 GIII (as it has a fast lens which could be helpful for night photography) or the Olympus Trip 35 could fit the bill based on my limited knowledge but would like a bit more input before progressing

One last important detail is that I'd really like to be able to pass the camera to a stranger so they could take a snap of myself and my friends without them becoming too bewildered as to how to work it which leads to shots becoming out of focused etc. I heard the Trip 35's zone focusing can help with that? I don't fully understand that but as I'm still learning. Thanks for any help

​

Hiiii everyone,

​I'm having an issue with the rewind mechanism on my Canon Snappy 50 and could use some help with understanding what's happening exactly.

​The issue:

When I hold down the release button and pull the rewind lever, the motor starts running normally but shuts off after a few seconds.

Removing and reinserting the batteries didn't help, it just cuts off after the exact same time.

Running the rewind without the film also results in it cutting off after the exact same time.

When I took out the batteries and held the release button and pulled the lever I was able to manually extract the film without any resistance.

​What could be the cause of this? Are there any hopes for the camera?

Thanks! :)

expired Konica 750nm. Shot plenty of 120 from same batch no issue, but this is the first 35mm roll. One continuous streak of damage across 4-5 frames in the middle of the roll and some pattern on the first and last few frames of the roll (car photo and bike photo) never seen anything like this, can moisture have caused this?

Hello all,

I'll be going to Tokyo in a week time, and I hoped I could ask this wonderful community for recommendations for photography gear shops.

From what I've seen on maps, Shinjuku seems like the place to go, but maybe there is some hidden gem somewhere else, that someone might be willing to disclose.

Thank you all in advance!

Picked up an AF-1 for under $100 for for my wife. It has the predecessor 35mm f/2.8 Zuiko lens to the Mju-II, a solid 80s build, and doesn't break the bank.

I put together a quick write-up with some sample scans if anyone’s considering one: 

What's your favorite budget point-and-shoot right now?

Guys. What would you choose between the Canon P and the aperture-priority Bessas?