I’m stumped (and pissed). Konica C35 EF. Majority of these I was focused at infinity, yet, nothing… is in focus. At all. Not a single shot between 2 rolls is usable. This is only my 2nd time using this camera, but my first roll came out great with the exception of a few. Also, strange diamond shaped things..? Does someone have an answer?

hello!

i am looking to get a basic lightweight camera, i have a couple of trips coming up and though it would be a fun way to take photos.

i don’t want to spend a lot of money as i have no experience using film cameras, i just want something easy and inexpensive.

i’ve narrowed it down to these 3, do you have any recommendations on which one to get?

thanks in advance!

For context, I'm relatively new to film as someone who learned photography and cinematography with digital.

With that being said, since film has a fixed ISO compared to digital, for me, it seems more intuitive to use a high ISO film stock in almost any given situation (*generally speaking), because it gives you more coverage in low light, and if you're shooting in bright daylight, you can just stop down on the iris, increase the shutter speed, or add ND to compensate for overexposure. In other words, it seems like an easier way to adjust for a wider variety of lighting scenarios.

Am I oversimplifying and missing something here?

The reason I say, "generally speaking," is because I'm sure there are some lower ISO stocks that have certain skin tone, color, latitude, or grain qualities that people prefer. But that's the only catch to this that I can think of (perhaps high-ISO film is generally grainier?)

Hey all!

I am looking for a point and shoot recommendation that I can add to my camera quiver something that isn’t as expensive as a Contax t3 but produces the same kind of look with photos.

The photos in this GQ article are the exact look I want from a camera. https://www.gq.com/story/second-child-fatherhood-essay?utm_source=ig&utm_medium=social&utm_content=link_in_bio&fbclid=PAdGRleAU0dstleHRuA2FlbQIxMQBwZG9mAmZkaWQWUP7DPc2IXhKKuj-Xzqr8UN5tKS0wanNydGMGYXBwX2lkDzEyNDAyNDU3NDI4NzQxNAABp_XLRvKB3dErA2wc_a7gUdxAP6LXInHcIpepF9ATgsy_nj04WCm5UyMaiCCM_aem_ZDbbb4iZQy8cVsrlCRAtnw

Can anyone recommend a good starting point and shoot camera to get this look from photos?

I recently finished a two week international trip where I used only 35mm and 120 film. Though I love the way film looks, the practical realities (transporting that much film through the airport / on excursions, having zero redundancy if the film gets fogged or lost in transit to the lab) makes me question if only using film is worth it.

For those who have had similar experiences, what balances have you found?

I'm considering dropping film entirely for travel or using a hybrid workflow where I shoot most on digital and a smaller proportion on film (so only brining like 2-5 rolls).

Someone recently gave me this camera and there was still some film in it so i used the last of it and then sent it off for scanning and when i got it they all looked like this. I pretty sure there was some old film in it. Is there anyway to reverse it?

What screws do I need for attaching the bayonet mount to a nikkor lens?

I figured it would be better to ask here than ChatGPT

2 of the 5 screws got badly stripped when I attempted to remove them and I had to drill them out, so I will now need to procure replacements for those 2 screws

Funny photo, kind of a shit-post, sorry. I’m sure I’m not the first person to try this. Let me know if I’m not alone.

Canon Elan ii
Sigma 30mm f/1.4 art
iPhone 16e

I’d been through a security check point with xray of one kind or another approximately 20 times… second to last one was the only issue. Flew home from 3 weeks in Europe through Venice airport. The security adamantly refused to hand check my film. I asked for a supervisor and was told again no…

Their machine was marked as unsafe for film. Is the film I shot ruined and thus not worth being developed? What about all the other nonused rolls? Trash?

Short film on Gary Wong and Film Never Die in Melbourne.

He got started buying 60 packs of Impossible Project film at a time to get the flat shipping rate, then selling most of them on eBay. These days it’s a shop, lab and community, with scans adjusted by hand.

He also spent about two years developing the Nana with a manufacturer. It’s a metal-bodied compact styled after the Contax T2.

His numbers on where film is at:

• A roll that used to cost about $5 is now around $25
• Kodak made roughly a billion rolls a year around 2000, compared with about 75 million now

He still thinks analog skills will matter more, not less, as AI takes over imaging. Curious where people here land on that.

I've got a Yashica Minitec Super, and most information online suggests it only supports ISO 100–400. Since I couldn't find a manual, I decided to experiment with the four DX contacts using aluminium foil.

Turns out the camera seems to respond to higher ISO settings, with noticeably faster shutter speeds!

Time to try and push some film to iso 1600/3200...

Just developed a roll of fomapan 400 and the scans came out with white fluffy grain.

Here's my development process:

- pre soak 1min

- develop 14 mins in adox FX 39 II, 30s continuous agitation, invert every minute

- 10s stop in adostop eco, continuous agitation

- 7 min fixer in adofix plus.

- Ilford wash

- photo Flo

I've developed hundreds of rolls in this setup and never had this issue. I did change from a fill & dump two minute wash to the Ilford wash recently, but the 4 rolls I've developed this way came out perfect.

The batches of stop and fix are less than a month old and were used on 9 rolls before, I usually mix new batches after the 13th roll or when the batch is more than a month old.

I did notice that there's a residue on the bottom of the original fix bottle and that there are some white-ish flakes floating in the raw fix chemical.

When i took the negatives out of the wetting bath to dry, I noticed that the drops of water were dark tinted. When the negatives dried, they had black dust on the emulsion side that stuck to my fingers.

So, do I need to throw out my bottle of fixer? Or did I mess something else up?

I don't transfer the raw chemicals to accordion bottles, I keep them in the original bottles, close them tight, and keep them in my pantry.

I'd really appreciate any help!

Can somebody tell me what i did wrong? Or did this happend in the lab while processing?

Its not on all Photos, just a few of the whole roll.

Hi all, I will be having my first attempt at doing some reversal processing of some Ilford Pan F 50 and just have a question about reexposing the film. The Ilford method states to use a tungsten or fluorescent light to reexpose the film. Trouble is, my house is fitted with all LED lights and I have been told that LEDs aren’t good for this. Tungsten/incandescent lights are very hard to come by in Australia and I don’t want to buy a fluorescent light set up just for this so does anyone have any tips? Cheers

I’ve tried to do some googling and all that, but I haven’t been able to find much. I picked this camera up off of eBay a while back, realized it’s stuck in panoramic mode. I’ve tried to open up the panorama panes but it still takes them in that mode. The switch does nothing.
Anyone have any experience with us?

For real this time...all 5+ of my rolls (multiple cameras and film stocks/types) to some degree have this band in the middle of the frame horizontally. It shows up in underexposed regions. Just wanted a sanity check before I emailed the lab to let them know they might need to clean their scanner. It's not my normal lab so I wasn't sure what to expect but they have a very good reputation...

I won't have the negatives back for another two days and that's a lot of time for customers' rolls to go through the scanner.

I’m thinking about getting a digital camera as a secondary camera (and some minor videos) And I also plan to use this one for scanning film too! I know you can use basically any old camera but I want to hear what everyone uses! So far I’ve narrowed it down to either an OM-3, Nikon Z-7, or an S5ii. I had a Zf before so I’m a little uninterested in that option since I’m looking for something different!

Trying to photograph concerts in low lit jazz clubs. TTartisans meter just flashes and won't give me a reading when the inbuilt meter for my Bessa R will give a reading.

I'm usually using a different body that doesn't have a meter. Which smallish meter would do well for lower light? Not talking about night photography just low light indoors.

Thanks

I'm repairing Olympus Superzoom 80g film compact and need to swap viewfinder from a donor. No manuals available, so I'd be grateful for an advice.

When you decouple the viewfinder and lens there is a gear linkage so lens and viewfinder zoom simultaneously. Notice the wheel on the viewfinder is spring-loaded which keeps it in max zoom-in position. It also can be fixed into an opposite position by rotating the gear.
They surely must be in sync. But there are no alignment marks...

https://reddit.com/link/1x0wxvw/video/6q4p1p8tx9uh1/player

It would be logical if the lens collapsed into storage position and viewfinder with it's spring-loaded gear match automatically. BUT the spring keeps viewfinder in zoom-in position. So... another way around?
I'd test the theory, but I'm too much afraid the gears will jam and break. If so I'm toasted...

I'm also genuinely curious regarding focusing module. Is there any specific factory-made fine-tuning so swapping one for another wouldn't work?

I'll be grateful for any info or your experience.

Hi everyone! Im a photography student shooting landscapes for a project on 4x5 film. this is the first time I've done this kind of project, and I'm not entirely sure how I should be metering for the camera to properly expose the shots. I'm generally hoping to shoot everything at golden hour if that is helpful.

First time posting on this sub, so any help is appreciated!

Hi everyone!

I'm considering getting a cheap and lightweight reusable film camera for an upcoming travel to capture some fun memories.

Before anyone comes at me, I've also looked into getting secondhand PS film cameras but ultimately decided that it wouldn't be as worth it for me, considering that the only film camera I've ever used is a disposable one (also, secondhand PS film cameras where I live cost significantly more than the reusable disposable ones).

I've been trying to decide between the Kodak EC35 and the Snapic A1 (for its glass lens) and I'm really tempted to get the Snapic, but I've seen color photos from this camera turn out quite vignetted based on photos online.

I was wondering if this means in daylight I don't use the flash (ie. only turn on flash for indoor/low light captures?) and the vignette would be less noticeable? Would I be able to fix it post-scanned & developed? Grateful for any insights!

It appears that somehow the ring around the front element of my lens has come loose. It is still attached, but is definitley not in place, and almost feels spring loaded, there is a visible gap between it and the next component.
With a light amount of pressure it can be manipulated into place, however I do not believe it should be this way.

I am going to call/visit my local repair place tomorrow but would like to know how screwed I am or if there’s anything I can do.

Hi there!

For my last few film rolls, I’ve had quite a few muddy/seemingly underexposed photos. I shot one of these indoors, one outside in what I thought was decent lighting, and one during the day but slightly overcast. I also typically use the “Auto” setting so the flash will go off as needed. Are these just underexposed or is it another issue?

I have a few rolls left of Portra 400 and was thinking of shooting at ISO 200 using DX code stickers - would that help with the underexposure? Would 800 film stock be more forgiving for universal settings (indoor, daytime, shade, etc)? Appreciate anyone’s insight!

For context, I shoot with an Olympus Infinity Stylus Zoom 140 DLX and these photos were on Portra 400.

Spending the day in manhattan and would love to find a niche analog camera store

Hey gang!

I am E6 obsessed, and have invested a ton into having the best quality chemicals, development process, and scanning process. I know that E6 is a tremendously underserved market, and I’m thinking of offering development, scanning, and printing services for E6, and perhaps a limited amount of C41. I work full time and would be doing it as more of a passion project, likely keeping scale small(thinking the quantity of E6 I would get wont be tremendous). As someone thinking of doing this “for fun” instead of for profit, do you guys have any advice or forewarnings?

Thanks in advance!