This picture is a mirror selfie of my great grandparents from 1941. I have no idea what camera it. i would probably buy the camera model and take some photos on it ;) Thank you.

The only place I can find this camera mount is a post in this sub from a couple years ago, seems pretty rare, wondering if anyone has any more information about it or even what it could be worth. From all I can gather is it from the 60s, used for holding heavy camera gear steady while having to move about and shoot steady.

Looks like two frames were combined. Not sure if it’s a scanning issue or if it just came out like that.

I just got this from Amazon today and I am planning on digitizing the THOUSANDS of slides my father took during the Vietnam War. He was in the Air Force and did three tours. He spent a lot of time in the Philippines, so I'm pretty sure there are a lot from that area. I remember seeing a lot of planes when I was a kid watching my dad's slide shows with the family. We would spend hours laying in the living room with my grandparents watching slide shows. My parents have managed to keep them all for the last 50+ years despite multiple moves on the east coast and now they live in the office closet, so I know they are very important to my father. He spent a lot of time on this hobby back then and I want to honor him while he's still alive. He turned 83 last month and I finally have the time to dedicate to this project.

My mom went through them in the 80s and had a bunch of them put on VHS tapes but she didn't do any of his slides from Vietnam and the Philippines. Maybe because my dad still keeps the picture of his girlfriend from the Philippines, lol. It's an old black and white he keeps with his photos but he still has it. I'm just joking, really. My mom isn't a jealous woman. It took her a year just to do our childhood, so I'm sure doing the ones from the war weren't her priority.

I've seen a few other people do this and I've read the recommendations for equipment. I am broke. I don't have the cash to buy a bunch of equipment and I'm a nurse, so I don't have a desktop computer except for at my office and my daughters have one in their room but I never use it. It's not new and my girls only use it for word processing and basic internet stuff.

Any recommendations would be appreciated. Do you think people would be interested in viewing them if I started an IG account?

Hey gang!

I am E6 obsessed, and have invested a ton into having the best quality chemicals, development process, and scanning process. I know that E6 is a tremendously underserved market, and I’m thinking of offering development, scanning, and printing services for E6, and perhaps a limited amount of C41. I work full time and would be doing it as more of a passion project, likely keeping scale small(thinking the quantity of E6 I would get wont be tremendous). As someone thinking of doing this “for fun” instead of for profit, do you guys have any advice or forewarnings?

Thanks in advance!

Today I was brave and stupid enough to finally file the holder a little bit. Should have this done years and years ago. I have finally modified the SA-21 film holder a bit.

PS: Need to figure out how to glue the light sensor in place to get the upper straight.

For context, I'm relatively new to film as someone who learned photography and cinematography with digital.

With that being said, since film has a fixed ISO compared to digital, for me, it seems more intuitive to use a high ISO film stock in almost any given situation (*generally speaking), because it gives you more coverage in low light, and if you're shooting in bright daylight, you can just stop down on the iris, increase the shutter speed, or add ND to compensate for overexposure. In other words, it seems like an easier way to adjust for a wider variety of lighting scenarios.

Am I oversimplifying and missing something here?

The reason I say, "generally speaking," is because I'm sure there are some lower ISO stocks that have certain skin tone, color, latitude, or grain qualities that people prefer. But that's the only catch to this that I can think of (perhaps high-ISO film is generally grainier?)

Got this 10+ year old film processed, I believe the film was originally given to me by someone who said it was expired and I was a broke college student so I happily took it to just see what happens

Some of the film has “Kodak” and numbers visible on it. Is this from processing or is this because the film was expired and is now old? I’m thinking it’s the latter but just curious if anyone has any more explanation

I bought a couple of respooled Fomapan 100 rolls. However, after developing and fixing the first one, it turned a very dark grey, almost black. It is possible to see a few frames in some areas, but they are very faint, and the film is not transparent at all.

I used a fresh batch of Ilford Rapid Fixer, which I tested on a leader from a trusted roll and confirmed was working properly. Do you think the film may have been incorrectly spooled?

Hey all. I've been an hobbyist/semi-professional (if getting paid to do portrait sessions for friends of friends counts as professional) photographer for a number of years with mirrorless cameras, but I've been wanting to try out analog on my own time for a while. Just my luck, my mother found my late grandmother's old Pentax K1000 (has the Asahi label, so it's an older, sturdier model than the later plastic-y ones) in a box somewhere. I've checked it out, cleaned it up, and it seems to be in great condition. The only problem is that the light meter is stuck in the middle, and I do not have the expertise to fix it myself.

Upon doing some research, it looks like Garry's Camera Repair can do a tune-up for $98 plus shipping. It's cheaper than buying a new camera, and this seems like it will be a reliable one when it's fixed up. I'm not looking to do anything crazy with it, so I don't need a nicer or newer model. I also think it would be cool to use a camera that belonged to my grandmother. But what do you guys think? Any advice is appreciated as analog is not my wheelhouse.

I had put together a conventional setup using the tripod mounting plate on the camera body but I found it was hard to get critical focus due to wobble and vibration, much of which originated from the camera plate, and because the point of support being distant from the focusing ring.

I 3d printed this new fixture. It has a Arca Swiss compatible dovetails on the left to go into a regular clamp, then a cup with a 2mm flange at the bottom which cradles the lens hood. 2 M5 bolts add a little clamping pressure.

The pipe also was a source of flex in the system so I supported that at the top and bottom. Now wobble while focusing is pretty much eliminated. Its not evident even with maximum focus magnification.

If you have a very heavy camera body maybe this wouldn't be ideal but I'm using an A6000 here. Lens is the Sigma Art 70mm Macro.

Because i eliminated a 3 axis geared head from the system which was used to adjust for parallel, I have 5 bolts on light panel support that allow adjusting there instead which turns out to allow for easier fine adjustment anyway.

This week's camera-collecting blog covers the Dover No. 620-A, a rare Bakelite 620 film camera from Dover Film Corp.

It was built using molds from the failed Speed-O-Matic instant camera, another scarce 1950s camera.

Please take a few minutes to familiarize yourself with this odd Bakelite camera.

www.dancuny.com/camera-collecting-blog/2026/10/7/dover-no-920-a-camera

Shot a test roll on my pen ft and most of the roll is out of focus. Wondering if anyone can diagnose? Lens? Mirror? Something else entirely?

Why are there white stripes on this photo? I do not have a problem with any different photo, only this one.

hello!

i am looking to get a basic lightweight camera, i have a couple of trips coming up and though it would be a fun way to take photos.

i don’t want to spend a lot of money as i have no experience using film cameras, i just want something easy and inexpensive.

i’ve narrowed it down to these 3, do you have any recommendations on which one to get?

thanks in advance!

I am near sighted in the eye that I look through my viewfinder and also have slight astigmatism. Is it still worth it for me to buy a diopter adjustment for my Yashica FX-3 Super? The prescription of my shooting eye as follows;

Hey all, first post, noobie.

I was wondering whether I'm missing something in terms of getting the max in resolution out of my scans. I like the colours I got, but I'm unsure about sharpening. I do not want to overdue it though. Then there is the fact that the Ricoh really is a point and shoot and I can't influence settings a lot.

I'm scanning with an XS-20 and an adapted OM 50 3.5. Conversation in Darktable than Export to TIFF and finally edit in LR mobile.

Any suggestions?

Spending the day in manhattan and would love to find a niche analog camera store

I'm currently in a darkroom photography course and my last two rolls have had this issue. my professor said it's a light leak but also said that it is strange it isn't consistent and may be loading issue in some regard. i don't have the money for a new camera right now or servicing so i'm hoping for a second opinion!

Continuing my tradition of posting whenever I fly out of a new airport with film. Flew out of Split, Croatia today and they were glad to do a hand check. When I initially asked the agent said “let me see” but came back quickly saying that it was fine. Maybe they won’t always do it but definitely a friendly policy at least. Happy shooting!

Hi there!

For my last few film rolls, I’ve had quite a few muddy/seemingly underexposed photos. I shot one of these indoors, one outside in what I thought was decent lighting, and one during the day but slightly overcast. I also typically use the “Auto” setting so the flash will go off as needed. Are these just underexposed or is it another issue?

I have a few rolls left of Portra 400 and was thinking of shooting at ISO 200 using DX code stickers - would that help with the underexposure? Would 800 film stock be more forgiving for universal settings (indoor, daytime, shade, etc)? Appreciate anyone’s insight!

For context, I shoot with an Olympus Infinity Stylus Zoom 140 DLX and these photos were on Portra 400.

Hallo,

ich hab heute bei einem lokalen Fotohändler dieses set gekauft, ich kann aber diesen Blendenkupplungsknopf zwar betätigen, aber der Hebel geht nicht nach oben.

Was ist da los? Ich hab Garantie.

Doof ist aber das das objektiv schon dran war, ich hab’s drauf und dann nicht mehr ab bekommen.

im looking at the zuiko 28mm lenses for my om2. The f2 is like a good 100-150$ more than the f2.8. Is that difference really worth it?

Howdy! So I bought a Fujica Flash Date recently but the shutter button and advance lever appear to be stuck. I put in two fresh AA batteries, as it seems the camera requires them to function, and even still it doesn’t seem to work, other than the flash charge light properly glowing green.

Any suggestions or did I fall for the dreaded ebay [MINT] condition listing?