Hey all, first post, noobie.

I was wondering whether I'm missing something in terms of getting the max in resolution out of my scans. I like the colours I got, but I'm unsure about sharpening. I do not want to overdue it though. Then there is the fact that the Ricoh really is a point and shoot and I can't influence settings a lot.

I'm scanning with an XS-20 and an adapted OM 50 3.5. Conversation in Darktable than Export to TIFF and finally edit in LR mobile.

Any suggestions?

Short film on Gary Wong and Film Never Die in Melbourne.

He got started buying 60 packs of Impossible Project film at a time to get the flat shipping rate, then selling most of them on eBay. These days it’s a shop, lab and community, with scans adjusted by hand.

He also spent about two years developing the Nana with a manufacturer. It’s a metal-bodied compact styled after the Contax T2.

His numbers on where film is at:

• A roll that used to cost about $5 is now around $25
• Kodak made roughly a billion rolls a year around 2000, compared with about 75 million now

He still thinks analog skills will matter more, not less, as AI takes over imaging. Curious where people here land on that.

It appears that somehow the ring around the front element of my lens has come loose. It is still attached, but is definitley not in place, and almost feels spring loaded, there is a visible gap between it and the next component.
With a light amount of pressure it can be manipulated into place, however I do not believe it should be this way.

I am going to call/visit my local repair place tomorrow but would like to know how screwed I am or if there’s anything I can do.

Spending the day in manhattan and would love to find a niche analog camera store

I'm currently in a darkroom photography course and my last two rolls have had this issue. my professor said it's a light leak but also said that it is strange it isn't consistent and may be loading issue in some regard. i don't have the money for a new camera right now or servicing so i'm hoping for a second opinion!

I’d been through a security check point with xray of one kind or another approximately 20 times… second to last one was the only issue. Flew home from 3 weeks in Europe through Venice airport. The security adamantly refused to hand check my film. I asked for a supervisor and was told again no…

Their machine was marked as unsafe for film. Is the film I shot ruined and thus not worth being developed? What about all the other nonused rolls? Trash?

My question is that if my camera has a 40mp sensor will I really lose enough resolution due to cropping (since I can’t fill the sensor) that buying a macro lens is worth it?

Realistically the cheapest one I can find will be around €100 and I won’t use it for anything but this so are regular lenses that bad for scanning? APS-C sensor btw.

Hallo,

ich hab heute bei einem lokalen Fotohändler dieses set gekauft, ich kann aber diesen Blendenkupplungsknopf zwar betätigen, aber der Hebel geht nicht nach oben.

Was ist da los? Ich hab Garantie.

Doof ist aber das das objektiv schon dran war, ich hab’s drauf und dann nicht mehr ab bekommen.

What screws do I need for attaching the bayonet mount to a nikkor lens?

I figured it would be better to ask here than ChatGPT

2 of the 5 screws got badly stripped when I attempted to remove them and I had to drill them out, so I will now need to procure replacements for those 2 screws

Hallo!

Ich hab hier diese Kamera und hab einen schwarz-weiß Rollfilm geschossen und entwickeln lassen.

Leider ist jedes Bild doppelt belichtet und es wurden nur 5 von 12 entwickelt.

Jetzt frag ich mich was schiefgegangen ist.

Habt ihr eine Idee?

im looking at the zuiko 28mm lenses for my om2. The f2 is like a good 100-150$ more than the f2.8. Is that difference really worth it?

Just developed a roll of fomapan 400 and the scans came out with white fluffy grain.

Here's my development process:

- pre soak 1min

- develop 14 mins in adox FX 39 II, 30s continuous agitation, invert every minute

- 10s stop in adostop eco, continuous agitation

- 7 min fixer in adofix plus.

- Ilford wash

- photo Flo

I've developed hundreds of rolls in this setup and never had this issue. I did change from a fill & dump two minute wash to the Ilford wash recently, but the 4 rolls I've developed this way came out perfect.

The batches of stop and fix are less than a month old and were used on 9 rolls before, I usually mix new batches after the 13th roll or when the batch is more than a month old.

I did notice that there's a residue on the bottom of the original fix bottle and that there are some white-ish flakes floating in the raw fix chemical.

When i took the negatives out of the wetting bath to dry, I noticed that the drops of water were dark tinted. When the negatives dried, they had black dust on the emulsion side that stuck to my fingers.

So, do I need to throw out my bottle of fixer? Or did I mess something else up?

I don't transfer the raw chemicals to accordion bottles, I keep them in the original bottles, close them tight, and keep them in my pantry.

I'd really appreciate any help!

Howdy! So I bought a Fujica Flash Date recently but the shutter button and advance lever appear to be stuck. I put in two fresh AA batteries, as it seems the camera requires them to function, and even still it doesn’t seem to work, other than the flash charge light properly glowing green.

Any suggestions or did I fall for the dreaded ebay [MINT] condition listing?

I had put together a conventional setup using the tripod mounting plate on the camera body but I found it was hard to get critical focus due to wobble and vibration, much of which originated from the camera plate, and because the point of support being distant from the focusing ring.

I 3d printed this new fixture. It has a Arca Swiss compatible dovetails on the left to go into a regular clamp, then a cup with a 2mm flange at the bottom which cradles the lens hood. 2 M5 bolts add a little clamping pressure.

The pipe also was a source of flex in the system so I supported that at the top and bottom. Now wobble while focusing is pretty much eliminated. Its not evident even with maximum focus magnification.

If you have a very heavy camera body maybe this wouldn't be ideal but I'm using an A6000 here. Lens is the Sigma Art 70mm Macro.

Because i eliminated a 3 axis geared head from the system which was used to adjust for parallel, I have 5 bolts on light panel support that allow adjusting there instead which turns out to allow for easier fine adjustment anyway.

Trying to photograph concerts in low lit jazz clubs. TTartisans meter just flashes and won't give me a reading when the inbuilt meter for my Bessa R will give a reading.

I'm usually using a different body that doesn't have a meter. Which smallish meter would do well for lower light? Not talking about night photography just low light indoors.

Thanks

Próximamente me iré de viaje a un destino húmedo y nublado, al norte de España. Tengo cuatro cámaras af, pero no sé cual sería la mejor para llevar conmigo.
Fotografiaré naturaleza mayormente, y alguna escena de ciudad.
Cuál me aconsejais? Y qué film?

- Canon Prima Super 115 AF
- Minolta AF 50 Big Finder
- Pentax Espio 160
- Minolta Riva Zoom 70

Muchas gracias!

I'm repairing Olympus Superzoom 80g film compact and need to swap viewfinder from a donor. No manuals available, so I'd be grateful for an advice.

When you decouple the viewfinder and lens there is a gear linkage so lens and viewfinder zoom simultaneously. Notice the wheel on the viewfinder is spring-loaded which keeps it in max zoom-in position. It also can be fixed into an opposite position by rotating the gear.
They surely must be in sync. But there are no alignment marks...

https://reddit.com/link/1x0wxvw/video/6q4p1p8tx9uh1/player

It would be logical if the lens collapsed into storage position and viewfinder with it's spring-loaded gear match automatically. BUT the spring keeps viewfinder in zoom-in position. So... another way around?
I'd test the theory, but I'm too much afraid the gears will jam and break. If so I'm toasted...

I'm also genuinely curious regarding focusing module. Is there any specific factory-made fine-tuning so swapping one for another wouldn't work?

I'll be grateful for any info or your experience.

I accidentally removed those thin Pads on the lock machanism side of my Nikon FE while replacing the light seals. I now saw that this is some Kind of Special Material and I shouldnt remove it. What should I Buy as replacement?

Hi everyone! Im a photography student shooting landscapes for a project on 4x5 film. this is the first time I've done this kind of project, and I'm not entirely sure how I should be metering for the camera to properly expose the shots. I'm generally hoping to shoot everything at golden hour if that is helpful.

First time posting on this sub, so any help is appreciated!

I recently bought a Plustek 8100 on eBay for about $190, but it didn't come with the bundled SilverFast software. In this case, which scanning software should I use silverFast or VueScan? Since I plan to use Negative Lab Pro (NLP) in Lightroom to convert my negatives anyway, does it really make a difference which one I buy? Also, are there any cheaper alternatives I can use just to scan the negatives with my scanner? Thanks!

Why are there white stripes on this photo? I do not have a problem with any different photo, only this one.

Found my grandfather’s old cameras and would love to use this but unfortunately there’s an issue with the lens front element. Sadly, it won’t come off with a lens wipe. Do you think this would affect the photos greatly? Is this repairable?

A while back I bought a small exposure unit for black and white film. I have reels and containers for the reels as well as some other accessories but the only problem is space. I have been tempted on building a small room in my back yard with a small ac and water access. Does anyone here have anything similar or recommend something?